Accordingly，Iputonapowerfulstrain，whichwasrepliedtobyasullentug，ashake，andagainmyrodwaspulledsuddenlydowntothewater'sedge。Atlength，aftertheroughesthandling，I

begantoreelinslackline，asmyunknownfriendhaddoubledinuponme。andupononcemoreputtingseverepressureuponhimorher，asitmightbe，Iperceivedagreatswirlinthewater，abouttwentyyardsfromtherod。Thetacklewouldbearanything，andIstrainedsoheavilyuponmyadversary，thatIsoonreducedourdistance。butthewaterwasexceedinglydeep，thebankprecipitous，andhewasstillinvisible。Atlength，aftermuchtuggingandcounter-tugging，hebegantoshow。eagerlyIgazedintothewatertoexaminemynewacquaintance，whenImadeoutsomethingbelow，inshapebetweenacoach-wheelandasponging-bath。inafewmomentsmoreIbroughttothesurfaceanenormousturtle，wellhooked。Ifeltliketheoldladywhowonanelephantinalottery:thatIhadhimwascertain，butwhatwasItodowithmyprize?Itwasattheleastahundredpounds'

weight，andthebankwassteepandcoveredwithbushes。thusitwasimpossibletolandthemonster，thatnowtuggedanddivedwiththedeterminationofthegrindstonethathisfirstpullhadsuggested。OnceIattemptedthegaffbutthetrustyweaponthathadlandedmanyafishinScotlandbrokeinthehardshelloftheturtle，andIwashelpless。MyArabnowcametomyassistance，andatonceterminatedthestruggle。Seizingthelinewithbothhands，utterlyregardlessofallremonstrance(which，beinginEnglish，hedidnotunderstand)，hequicklyhauledourturtletothesurface，andheldit，strugglingandgnashingitsjaws，closetothesteepbank。Inafewmomentsthelineslackened，andtheturtledisappeared。Thefightwasover!Thesharphornyjawshadbittenthroughtreble-twistedbrasswireascleanasthoughcutbyshears。Myvisionsofturtlesouphadfaded。

Theheavyfishwerenotinthehumourtotake。Ithereforeshotonewitharifleasitcametothesurfacetoblow，and，thewaterinthisspotbeingshallow，webroughtittoshore。itwasaspeciesofcarp，betweenthirtyandfortypounds。thescaleswereratherlargerthanacrownpiece，andsohardthattheywouldhavebeendifficulttopiercewithaharpoon。Itprovedtobeuselessforthetable，beingofanoilynaturethatwasonlyacceptabletotheArabs。

IntheeveningIwentoutstalkinginthedesert，andreturnedwithfivefinebuckgazelles。Thesebeautifulcreaturessoexactlyresemblethecolourofthesandydesertswhichtheyinhabit，thattheyaremostdifficulttodistinguish，andtheirextremeshynessrendersstalkinguponfootveryuncertain。I

accordinglyemployedanArabtoleadacamel，undercoverofwhichIcouldgenerallymanagetoapproachwithinahundredyards。Abuckgazelleweighsfromsixtytoseventypounds，andistheperfectionofmusculardevelopment。Nopersonwhohasseenthegazellesinconfinementinatemperateclimatecanformanideaofthebeautyoftheanimalinitsnativedesert。Borninthescorchingsun，nursedontheburningsandofthetreelessandshadowlesswilderness，thegazelleisamongtheantelopetribeastheArabhorseisamongitsbrethren，thehigh-bredandsuperlativebeautyoftherace。Theskinisassleekassatin，ofacolourdifficulttodescribe，asitvariesbetweenthelightestmauveandyellowishbrown。thebellyissnow-white。thelegs，fromthekneedownwards，arealsowhite，andareasfineasthoughcarvedfromivory。thehoofisbeautifullyshaped，andtaperstoasharppoint。theheadofthebuckisornamentedbygracefully-curvedannulatedhorns，perfectlyblack，andgenerallyfromninetotwelveincheslonginthebend。theeyeisthewell-knownperfection——thefull，large，soft，andjet-blackeyeofthegazelle。Althoughthedesertappearsincapableofsupportinganimmiallife，thereareintheundulatingsurfacenumerousshallowsandyravines，inwhicharetuftsofaherbagesocoarsethat，asasourceofnourishment，itwouldbevaluelesstoadomesticanimal:nevertheless，uponthisdryandwirysubstancethedelicategazellessubsist。and，althoughtheyneverfatten，theyareexceedinglyfleshyandinexcellentcondition。

Entirelyfreefromfat，andneverthelessamassofmuscleandsinew，thegazelleisthefastestoftheantelopetribe。Proudofitsstrength，andconfidentinitsagility，itwillgenerallyboundperpendicularlyfourorfivefeetfromthegroundseveraltimesbeforeitstartsatfullspeed，asthoughtotestthequalityofitssinewsbeforetherace。TheArabscoursethemwithgreyhounds，andsometimestheyarecaughtbyrunningseveraldogsatthesametime。butthisresultisfromthefollyofthegazelle，whoatfirstdistanceshispursuerslikethewind。but，secureinitsspeed，ithaltsandfacesthedogs，exhaustingitselfbyboundingexultinglyintheair。inthemeantimethegreyhoundsareclosingup，anddiminishingthechanceofescape。

Asarule，notwithstandingthisabsurdityofthegazelle，ithasthebestoftherace，andthegreyhoundsreturncrestfallenandbeaten。Altogetheritisthemostbeautifulspecimenofgamethatexists，fartoolovelyandharmlesstobehuntedandkilledforthemereloveofsport。Butwhendinnerdependsupontherifle，beautyisnoprotection。accordingly，throughoutourdesertmarchwelivedupongazelles，andIamsorrytoconfessthatIbecameveryexpertatstalkingthesewarylittleanimals。Theflesh，althoughtolerablygood，hasaslightflavourofmusk。thisisnotpeculiartothegazelle，astheodouriscommontomostofthesmallvarietiesofantelopes。

Havingagoodsupplyofmeat，allhandswerebusilyengagedincuttingitintostripsanddryingitforfutureuse。thebusheswerecoveredwithfestoonsoffleshofgazellesandhippopotami，andtheskinsoftheformerwerepreparedformakinggirbas，orwater-sacks。Theflayingprocessforthispurposeisadelicateoperation，astheknifemustbesodexterouslyusedthatnofalsecutshouldinjurethehide。Theanimalishungupbythehindlegs。anincisionisthenmadealongtheinsideofboththighstothetail，andwithsometroubletheskinisdrawnoffthebodytowardsthehead，preciselyasastockingmightbedrawnfromtheleg。bythisoperationtheskinformsaseamlessbag，openatbothends。Toformagirba，theskinmustbeburiedintheearthforabouttwentyhours:itisthenwashedinwater，andthehairiseasilydetached。Thusrenderedclean，itistannedbysoakingforseveraldaysinamixtureofthebarkofamimosaandwater。

fromthisitisdailywithdrawn，andstretchedoutwithpegsupontheground。itisthenwellscrubbedwitharoughstone，andfreshmimosabarkwellbruised，withwater，isrubbedinbythefriction。Aboutfourdaysaresufficienttotanthethinskinofagazelle，whichismuchvaluedforitstoughnessanddurability。

theapertureatthehindquartersissewntogether，andtheopeningoftheneckisclosed，whenrequired，bytying。Agoodwater-skinshouldbeporous，toallowthewatertoexudesufficientlytomoistentheexterior:thustheactionoftheairupontheexposedsurfacecausesevaporation，andimpartstothewaterwithintheskinadeliciouscoolness。TheArabsusuallypreparetheirtannedskinswithanempyreumaticaloilmadefromavarietyofsubstances，thebestofwhichisthatfromthesesamegrain。thishasapowerfulsmell，andrendersthewatersodisagreeablethatfewEuropeanscoulddrinkit。Thisoilisblack，andmuchresemblestarinappearance。ithastheeffectofpreservingtheleather，andofrenderingitperfectlywater-tight。Indeserttravellingeachpersonshouldhavehisownprivatewater-skinslunguponhisdromedary。forthispurposenonearesogoodasasmall-sizedgazelleskinthatwillcontainabouttwogallons。

Onthe23dJunewewerenearlysuffocatedbyawhirlwindthatburiedeverythingwithinthetentsseveralinchesindust。theheatwasintense。asusualtheskywasspotless，butthesimoomwasmoreoverpoweringthanIhadyetexperienced。Iaccordinglytookmyrifleandwentdowntothepool，asanymovement，evenintheburningsun，waspreferabletoinactioninthatsultryheatanddust。Thecrocodileshaddraggedtheskeletonsofthehippopotamiintothewater。severalhugeheadsappearedandthenvanishedfromthesurface，andtheribsofthecarcasethatprojected，trembledandjerkedasthejawsofthecrocodileswereatworkbeneath。Ishotoneofverylargesizethroughthehead，butitsanktothebottom。Iexpectedtofinditonthefollowingmorningfloatinguponthesurfacewhenthegasshouldhavedistendedthebody。

Ialsoshotalargesinglebullhippopotamuslateintheevening，whichwasaloneattheextremityofthepool。hesankattheforeheadshot，and，asheneverroseagain，Iconcludedthathewasdead，andthatIshouldfindhimonthemorrowwiththecrocodile。Tiredwiththeheat，Itrudgedhomewardoverthehotandfatiguingsandoftheriver'sbed。

Thecoolnightarrived，andatabouthalf-pasteightIwaslyinghalfasleepuponmybedbythemarginoftheriver，whenI

fanciedthatIheardarumblinglikedistantthunder:Ihadnotheardsuchasoundformonths，butalowuninterruptedrollappearedtoincreaseinvolume，althoughfardistant。HardlyhadIraisedmyheadtolistenmoreattentivelywhenaconfusionofvoicesarosefromtheArabs'camp，withasoundofmanyfeet，andinafewminutestheyrushedintomycamp，shoutingtomymeninthedarkness，"ElBahr!ElBahr!"(theriver!theriver!)

Wewereupinaninstant，andmyinterpreter，Mahomet，inastateofintenseconfusion，explainedthattheriverwascomingdown，andthatthesupposeddistantthunderwastheroarofapproachingwater。

Manyofthepeoplewereasleeponthecleansandontheriver'sbed。thesewerequicklyawakenedbytheArabs，whorusheddownthesteepbanktosavetheskullsofmytwohippopotamithatwereexposedtodry。Hardlyhadtheydescended，whenthesoundoftheriverinthedarknessbeneathtoldusthatthewaterhadarrived，andthemen，drippingwithwet，hadjustsufficienttimetodragtheirheavyburdensupthebank。

Allwasdarknessandconfusion。everybodywastalkingandnoonelistening。butthegreateventhadoccurredtheriverhadarrived"likeathiefinthenight。"Onthemorningofthe24thJune，I

stoodonthebanksofthenobleAtbarariver，atthebreakofday。Thewonderofthedesert!——yesterdaytherewasabarrensheetofglaringsand，withafringeofwitheredbushandtreesuponitsborders，thatcuttheyellowexpanseofdesert。Fordayswehadjourneyedalongtheexhaustedbed:allNature，eveninNature'spoverty，wasmostpoor:nobushcouldboastaleaf:notreecouldthrowashade:crispgumscrackleduponthestemsofthemimosas，thesapdriedupontheburstbark，sprungwiththewitheringheatofthesimoom。Inonenighttherewasamysteriouschange——wondersofthemightyNile!——anarmyofwaterwashasteningtothewastedriver:therewasnodropofrain，nothunder-cloudonthehorizontogivehope，allhadbeendryandsultry。dustanddesolationyesterday，to-dayamagnificentstream，some500yardsinwidthandfromfifteentotwentyfeetindepth，flowedthroughthedrearydesert!Bamboosandreeds，withtrashofallkinds，werehurriedalongthemuddywaters。

Wherewereallthecrowdedinhabitantsofthepool?Theprisondoorswerebroken，theprisonerswerereleased，andrejoicedinthemightystreamoftheAtbara。

The24thJune，1861，wasamemorableday。Althoughthiswasactuallythebeginningofmywork，IfeltthatbytheexperienceofthisnightIhadobtainedacluetooneportionoftheNilemystery，andthat，as"comingeventscasttheirshadowsbeforethem，"thissuddencreationofariverwasbuttheshadowofthegreatcause。

TherainswerepouringinAbyssinia!theseweresourcesoftheNile!

OneofmyTurks，HadjiAchmet，wasill。therefore，althoughI

longedtotravel，itwasnecessarytowait。Iextractverbatimfrommyjournal，26thJune:——"Theriverhasstillrisen。theweatheriscooler，andthewitheredtreesandbushesaregivingsignsofburstingintoleaf。Thisseasonmaybetermedthespringofthiscountry。ThefrightfulsimoomofApril，May，andJune，burnseverythingasthoughparchedbyfire，andnotevenawitheredleafhangstoabough，butthetreeswearawintryappearanceinthemidstofintenseheat。Thewildgeesehavepaired，thebirdsarebuildingtheirnests，and，althoughnotevenadropofdewhasfallen，allNatureseemstobeawareofanapproachingchange，asthesouthwindblowingcoolfromthewetquarteristheharbingerofrain。Alreadysomeofthemimosasbegintoaffordashade，underwhichthegazellesmaybesurelyfoundatmid-day。thedoesarenowinfawn，andtheyoungwillbedroppedwhenthisnowwitheredlandshallbegreenwithherbage。

"Busy，packingforastartto-morrow。IsendHadjiVellibacktoBerberinchargeofthetwohippos'headstothecareofthegoodoldHalleemEffendi。Notimeforshootingto-day。Itookoutallthehippos'teeth，ofwhichhepossesses40，10——10，——

10——10

sixtusksandfourteenmolarsineachjaw。Thebonesofthehippopotamus，likethoseoftheelephant，aresolid，andwithoutmarrow。"

CHAPTERIII。

WILDASSESOFTHEDESERT。

THEjourneyalongthemarginoftheAtbarawassimilartotheentireroutefromBerber，avastdesert，withthenarrowbandoftreesthatmarkedthecourseoftheriver。theonlychangewasthemagicalgrowthoftheleaves，whichbursthourlyfromtheswollenbudsofthemimosas:thiscouldbeaccountedforbythesuddenarrivaloftheriver，asthewaterpercolatedrapidlythroughthesandandnourishedthefamishingroots。

Thetracksofwildasseshadbeenfrequent，buthithertoIhadnotseentheanimals，astheirdrinking-hourwasatnight，afterwhichtheytravelledfarintothedesert:however，onthemorningofthe29thJune，shortlyafterthestartatabout6A。M。，weperceivedthreeofthesebeautifulcreaturesonourleft——anass，afemale，andafoal。Theywereabouthalfamiledistantwhenfirstobserved，anduponourapproachtowithinhalfthatdistancetheyhaltedandfacedabout。theywereevidentlyontheirreturntothedesertfromtheriver。Thosewhohaveseendonkeysintheircivilizedstatehavenoconceptionofthebeautyofthewildandoriginalanimal。FarfromthepassiveandsubduedappearanceoftheEnglishass，theanimalinitsnativedesertistheperfectionofactivityandcourage。thereisahigh-bredtoneinthedeportment，ahigh-actionedstepwhenittrotsfreelyovertherocksandsand，withthespeedofahorsewhenitgallopsovertheboundlessdesert。Noanimalismoredifficultofapproach。and，althoughtheyarefrequentlycapturedbytheArabs，thosetakenareinvariablythefoals，whichareriddendownbyfastdromedaries，whilethemothersescape。Thecolourofthewildassisareddishcreamtingedwiththeshademostprevalentofthegroundthatitinhabits。thusitmuchresemblesthesandofthedesert。Iwishedtoobtainaspecimen，andaccordinglyIexertedmyutmostknowledgeofstalkingtoobtainashotatthemale。AfteratleastanhourandahalfIsucceededinobtainingalongshotwithasinglerifle，whichpassedthroughtheshoulder，andIsecuredmyfirstandlastdonkey。ItwaswithextremeregretthatIsawmybeautifulprizeinthelastgasp，andIresolvednevertofireanothershotatoneofitsrace。Thisfinespecimenwasinexcellentcondition，althoughthemiserablepasturageofthedesertisconfinedtothewiryherbagealreadymentioned。ofthisthestomachwasfull，chewedintomorselslikechoppedreeds。Theheightofthismaleasswasabout13。3or14hands。theshoulderwasfarmoreslopingthanthatofthedomesticass，thehoofswereremarkablefortheirsize。theywerewide，firm，andasbroadasthoseofahorseof15hands。

Iskinnedthisanimalcarefully，andtheArabsdividedthefleshamongthem，whileHadjiAchmetselectedachoicepieceforourowndinner。Atthecloseofourmarchthatevening，themorselofwildasswascookedintheformof"rissoles:"theflavourresembledbeefbutitwasextremelytough。

Onthefollowingday，30thJune，wereachedGozerajup，alargepermanentvillageonthesouthbankoftheriver。Bydeadreckoningwehadmarched246milesfromBerber。Thisspotwasthereforeabout220milesfromthejunctionoftheAtbarawiththeNile。Hereweremainedforafewdaystorestthedonkeysandtoengagefreshcamels。Anextractfrommyjournalwillgiveageneralideaofthismiserablecountry:——

"July3——Iwentoutearlytogetsomethingforbreakfast，andshotahareandsevenpigeons。Onmyreturntocamp，anArabimmediatelyskinnedthehare，andpullingouttheliver，lungs，andkidneys，heatethemrawandbloody。TheArabsinvariablyeatthelungs，liver，kidneys，andthethoraxofsheep，gazelles，&c。

whiletheyareengagedinskinningthebeasts，afterwhichtheycrackthelegbonesbetweenstones，andsuckouttherawmarrow。"

ABishareenArabwearshishairinhundredsofminuteplaitswhichhangdowntohisshoulders，surmountedbyacircularbushytopknotuponthecrown，aboutthesizeofalargebreakfast-cup，fromthebaseofwhichtheplaitsdescend。Wheninfulldress，theplaitsarecarefullycombedoutwithanivoryskewerabouteighteeninchesinlength。afterthisoperation，theheadappearslikeahugeblackmopsurmountedbyafellowmopofasmallsize。

Throughthismassofhairhecarrieshisskewer，whichisgenerallyornamented，andwhichanswersthedoublepurposeofcombandgeneralscratcher。

Themenhaveremarkablyfinefeatures，butthewomenarenotgenerallypretty。TheBishareenisthelargestArabtribeofNubia。LikealltheArabsofUpperEgypt，theypaytaxestotheViceroy。thesearegatheredbypartiesofsoldiers，whotaketheopportunityofvisitingthemduringthedrought，atwhichtimetheycanbecertainlyfoundneartheriver。butatanyotherseasonitwouldbeaseasytocollecttributefromthegazellesofthedesertasfromthewanderingBishareens。TheappearanceofTurkishsoldiersisanythingbutagreeabletotheArabs。

thereforemyescortofTurkswasgenerallyreceivedwiththe"coldshoulder"uponourarrivalatanArabcamp，andnosupplieswereforthcomingintheshapeofmilk，&c。untilthelongcoorbatch(hippopotamuswhip)ofHadjiAchmethadcrackedseveraltimesacrosstheshouldersofthevillageheadman。Atfirstthisappearedtomeextremelybrutal，butIwasgiventounderstandthatIwasutterlyignorantoftheArabcharacter，andthatheknewbest。IfoundbyexperiencethatHadjiAchmetwascorrect。

evenwheremilkwasabundant，theArabsinvariablydeclaredthattheyhadnotadrop，thatthegoatsweredry，orhadstrayedaway。andsomepaltryexcuseswereoffereduntilthetemperoftheTurkbecameexhausted，andthecoorbatchassistedintheargument。Amagician'srodcouldnothaveproducedagreatermiraclethanthehippopotamuswhip。Thegoatswerenolongerdry，andinafewminuteslargegourdsofmilkwerebrought，andliberallypaidfor，whileIwasridiculedbytheTurk，HadjiAchmet，forsofoolishlythrowingawaymoneytothe"Arabdogs。"

Ourroutewastochange。WehadhithertofollowedthecourseoftheAtbara，butwewerenowtoleavethatriveronourright，whileweshouldtravelS。E。aboutninetymilestoCassala，thecapitaloftheTakacountry，ontheconfinesofAbyssinia，thegreatdepotuponthatfrontierforEgyptiantroops，militarystores，&c。

Havingprocuredfreshcamels，westartedon5thJuly。Thisportionofthedesertwasrichinagatesandnumerousspecimensofbloodstone。ExactlyoppositethevillageofGozerajuparecuriousnaturallandmarks，——fourpyramidicalhillsofgranitethatcanbeseenformanymiles'distanceinthisperfectlylevelcountry。Oneofthesehillsisabout500feethigh，andiscomposedentirelyofflakedblocksofgreygranitepiledoneupontheother。someofthesestandperpendicularlyinsinglemassesfrom30to50feethigh，andfromadistancemightbetakenforgiantsclimbingthehill-side。Thepinnaclehasapeculiarconicalcap，whichappearstohavebeenplacedtherebydesign，butuponcloserinspectionitisfoundtobenatural，asnostoneofsuchimmensesizecouldhavebeenplacedinsuchaposition。

Forthefirsttwohours'marchfromthislandmark，thecountrywascoveredwithscrubbybushaboundingingazellesandguinea-fowl。Here，forthefirsttime，Isawthesecretarybird，knowntotheArabsasthe"Devil'shorse。"Apairofthesemagnificentbirdswereactivelyemployedintheirusefulavocationofhuntingreptiles，whichtheychasedwithwonderfulspeed。Greatnumbersofwildassespassedusduringthemarchtowardsevening。theywereontheirwayfromthedeserttotheAtbarariver，somemilesdistantuponthewest。VeritablethunderwenowheardforthefirsttimeinAfrica，andacloudrosewithgreatrapidityfromthehorizon。Acloudwasawonderthatwehadnotenjoyedformonths，butasthisincreasedbothinsizeanddensity，accompaniedbyagustofcoolwind，wewereledtoexpectastillgreaterwonder——RAIN!Hardlyhadwehaltedforthenight，whendownitcameintorrents，accompaniedbyaheavythunderstorm。Onthefollowingmorning，weexperiencedthedisadvantageofrain。thegroundwassoslipperythatthecamelscouldnotmarch，andwewereobligedtodeferourstartuntilthesunhaddriedthesurface。

Wehadnowarrivedatthemostinterestingpointtoanexplorer。

FromCairotowithinafewmilessouthofGozerajupstretchedtheunbrokendesertthroughwhichwehadtoiledfromKorosko，andwhichhadsofirmlyimpresseditsdrearinessuponthemindthatnothingbutdeserthadbeenexpected:wehadlearnedtobecontentinaworldofhotsand，rocks，andpebbles。butwehadarriveduponthelimit。thecuriouslandmarkofGozerajupwasaneverlastingbeaconthatmarkedthefrontieroftheNubiandesert。

itwasagiantwarder，thatseemedtoguardthelivingsouthfromthedreadfulskeletonofnatureonthenorth。thedeserthadceased!

Itwasacuriousandhappycoincidencethatonrarrivaluponthelimitsofthedesertshouldhavebeencelebratedbythefirstshowerofrain:wenolongertravelleduponsandandstones，butwestooduponafertileloam，renderedsoapyandadhesivebytherecentshower。Thecountrywasutterlybarrenatthatseason，astheextremeheatofthesunandsimoomdestroysallvegetationsothoroughlythatitbecomesascrispasglass。thedriedgrassbreaksinthewind，andiscarriedawayindust，leavingtheearthsoutterlynakedandbarethatitisrenderedacompletedesert。

Intherainyseason，thewholeofthiscountry，fromthesouthtoGozerajup，iscoveredwithexcellentpasturage，and，farfromresemblingadesert，itbecomesamassofbrightgreenherbage。

TheArabsandtheirflocksaredrivenfromthesouthbythefliesandbytheheavyrains，andGozerajupoffersaparadisetobothmenandbeasts。thousandsofcamelswiththeiryoung，hundredsofthousandsofgoats，sheep，andcattle，areaccompaniedbytheArabsandtheirfamilies，whoencamponthehappypasturesduringtheseasonofplenty。

WehadnowpassedthehuntsoccupiedbytheBishareens，andwehadentereduponthecountryoftheHadendowaArabs。Theseareanexceedinglybadtribe，and，togetherwiththeirneighbours，theHallongaArabs，theyfoughtdeterminedlyagainsttheEgyptians，untilfinallyconqueredduringthereignofthefamousMehemetAlaPasha，whentheprovincesofNubiasubmittedunconditionally，andbecameaportionofUpperEgypt。

UponarrivalatSoojalupwecameupontheprincipalencampmentoftheHadendowaduringthedryseason。Withinafewmilesofthisspotthescenehadchanged:insteadofthebareearthdenudedofvegetation，thecountrywascoveredwithjungle，alreadynearlygreen，whilethevastplainsofgrass，enlivenedbybeautifulherdsofantelopes，provednotonlythefertilityofthesoil，butthepresenceofmoisture。Althoughtherewasnostream，noranyappearanceofariver'sbed，Soojalupwaswellsuppliedwithwaterthroughoutthehottestseasonbynumerouswells。ThisspotisaboutfortymilesdistantfromGozerajup，andisthefirstwatering-placeupontheroutetoCassala。Asweapproachedthewells，wepassedseverallargevillagessurroundedbyfencedgardensofcotton，andtobacco，bothofwhichthroveexceedingly。

Everyvillagepossessedaseriesofwells，withasimplecontrivanceforwateringtheircattle:——Adjoiningthemouthofeachwellwasabasinformedofclay，raisedsufficientlyhighabovethelevelofthegroundtopreventtheanimalsfromtreadingitwhiledrinking。Witharopeandaleathernbagdistendedbypiecesofstick，thewaterwasraisedfromthewellsandemptiedintotheclaybasins。thelatterwerecircular，aboutninefeetindiameter，andtwofeetdeep。Imeasuredthedepthofsomeofthewells，andfoundauniformityoffortyfeet。WehaltedatSoojalupforthenight:hereforthefirsttimeIsawthebeautifulantelopeknownbytheArabsastheAriel(GazelleDama)。Thisisaspeciesofgazelle，beingsimilarinformandinshapeofthehorns，butaslargeasafallowdeer:thecolouralsonearlyresemblesthatofthegazelle，withtheexceptionoftherump，whichismilk-white。

TheseanimalshadnowaternearerthantheAtbarariver，unlesstheycouldobtainastealthysupplyfromthecattlebasinsoftheArabsduringthenight。theyweresowild，frombeingconstantlydisturbedandhuntedbytheArabdogs，thatIfounditimpossibletostalkthemupontheeveningofourarrival。Thejunglesliterallyswarmedwithguinea-fowl——Ishotnineinafewminutes，andreturnedtocampwithdinnerformywholeparty。Theonlyspeciesofguinea-fowlthatIhaveseeninAfricaisthatwiththebluecombandwattles。Thesebirdsareablessingtothetraveller，asnotonlyaretheygenerallytobemetwithfromthedesertfrontierthroughoutthefertileportionsofthesouth，buttheyareextremelygoodeating，andfarsuperiortothedomesticguinea-fowlofEurope。Inthisspot，Soojalup，Icouldhavekilledanynumber，hadIwishedtoexpendmyshot:butthismostnecessaryammunitionrequiredmuchnursingduringalongexploration。Ihadagoodsupply，fourhundredweightofthemostusefulsizes，No。6forgeneralshooting，andBB。forgeese，&c……alsoabagofNo。10，forfiringintodenseflocksofsmallbirds。OnthefollowingmorningweleftSoojalup。forseveralmilesonourroutewereArabcampsandwells，withimmenseherdsofgoats，sheep，andcattle。Antelopeswereverynumerous，anditwasexceedinglyinterestingtoobservethenewvarietiesasweincreasedourdistancefromthenorth。Ishottwofrommycamel(G。Dorcas)。theywereaboutthesizeofafineroebuck——thehornswerelikethoseofthegazelle，buttheanimalswerelargeranddarkerincolour，withadistinguishingmarkinajetblackstripelongitudinallydividingthewhiteofthebellyfromthereddishcolouroftheflank。Theseantelopeswereexceedinglywild，andwithouttheaidofacamelitwouldhavebeenimpossibletoapproachthem。IhadexchangedmydonkeyforHadjiAchmet'sdromedary。thusmounted，Icouldgenerallysucceedinstalkingtowithinninetyorahundredyards，byallowingtheanimaltofeeduponthevariousbushes，asthoughIhadmounteditforthepurposeofleadingittograze。Thisdeceivedtheantelopes，andbycarefullyascertainingthecorrectwind，I

obtainedseveralshots，someofwhichfailed，owingtotheunsteadinessofmysteed，whichhadastrongobjectiontotherifle。

TheentirecountryfromGozerajuptoCassalaisadeadflat，uponwhichthereisnotonetreesufficientlylargetoshadeafull-sizedtent:thereisnorealtimberinthecountry，butthevastlevelextentofsoilisaseriesofopenplainsandlowbushofthornymimosa:thereisnodrainageuponthisperfectlevel。

thus，duringtherainyseason，thesoakageactuallymeltsthesoil，andformsdeepholesthroughoutthecountry，whichthenbecomesanimpracticableslough，bearinggrassandjungle。Uponthisfertiletractofland，cottonmightbecultivatedtoalargeextent，andsenttoBerber，viaAtbara，fromGozerajup，duringtheseasonofflood。Atthepresenttime，thegrowthisrestrictedtothesupplyrequiredbytheArabsforthemanufactureoftheircloths。Thesearewovenbythemselves，theweaversittinginaholeexcavatedinthegroundbeforehisrudeloom，shadedbyaroughthatchabouttenfeetsquare，supporteduponpoles。ThereisauniformityindressthroughoutalltheNubiantribesofArabs，thesimpletogaoftheRomansthisisworninmanyways，asoccasionmaysuggest，verysimilartotheScotchplaid。ThequalityofcottonproducedisthesameasthatofLowerEgypt，andtheclothsmanufacturedbytheArabs，althoughcoarse，areremarkablysoft。Thetogaortopeisgenerallyornamentedwithafewredstripesateitherextremity，andisterminatedbyafringe。

Asweapproachedwithinabouttwenty-fivemilesoCassala，I

remarkedthatthecountryonourleftwasinmanyplacesflooded。

theArabs，whohadhithertobeenencampedinthisneighbourhoodduringthedryseason，weremigratingtootherlocalitiesintheneighbourhoodofSoojalupandGozerajup，withtheirvastherdsofcamelsandgoats。Asrainhadnotfalleninsufficientquantitytoaccountfortheflood，IwasinformedthatitwasduetotheriverGash，orMareb，which，flowingfromAbyssinia，passedbeneaththewallsofCassala，andthendividedintoinnumerableramifications。itwaseventuallylost，anddisappearedintheporoussoil，afterhavingfloodedalargeextentofcountry。Thiscauseaccountedforthenever-failingwellsofSoojalup——doubtlessasubstratumofclaypreventedthetotalescapeofthewater，whichremainedatadepthoffortyfeetfromthesurface。ThelargetractofcountrythusannuallyfloodedbytheriverGashisrenderedextremelyfruitful，andistheresortofboththeHadendowaandtheHallongaArabsduringthedryseason，whocultivatelargequantitiesofdhurra，andothergrain。

Unfortunately，intheseclimates，fertilityofsoilisgenerallycombinedwithunhealthiness，andthecommencementoftherainyseasonisthesignalforfeversandothermaladies。Nosoonerhadwearrivedinthefloodedcountrythanmywifewasseizedwithasuddenandsevereattack，whichnecessitatedahaltuponthemarch，asshecouldnolongersituponhercamel。Intheevening，severalhundredsofArabsarrived，andencampedaroundourfire。Itwasshortlyaftersunset，anditwasinterestingtowatchtheextremerapiditywithwhichtheseswarthysonsofthedesertpitchedtheircamp——ahundredfireswerequicklyblazing。

thewomenpreparedthefood，childrensatinclustersroundtheblaze，asallwerewetfrompaddlingthroughthepuddledground，fromwhichtheywereretreating。

Nosoonerwasthebustleofarrangementcompleted，thanagreyoldmansteppedforward，and，respondingtohiscall，everymanofthehundredspresentformedinline，threeorfourdeep。Atoncetherewastotalsilence，disturbedonlybythecracklingofthefires，orbythecryofachild。andwithfacesturnedtotheeast，inattitudesofprofounddevotion，thewildbutferventfollowersofMahometrepeatedtheireveningprayer。

Theflickeringredlightofthefiresilluminedthebronzefacesofthecongregation，andasIstoodbeforethefrontlineofdevotees，Itookoffmycapinrespectfortheirfaith，andatthecloseoftheirprayerImademysalaamtotheirvenerableFaky(priest)。hereturnedthesalutationwiththecolddignityofanArab。InthispartthecoorbatchoftheTurkwasunnecessary，andweshortlyobtainedsuppliesofmilk。IorderedthedragomanMahomettoinformtheFakythatIwasadoctor，andthatIhadthebestmedicinesattheserviceofthesick，withadvicegratis。InashorttimeIhadmanyapplicants，towhomI

servedoutaquantityofHolloway'spills。Thesearemostusefultoanexplorer，as，possessingunmistakeablepurgativeproperties，theycreateanundeniableeffectuponthepatient，whichsatisfieshimoftheirvalue。Theyarealsoextremelyconvenient，astheymaybecarriedbythepoundinatinbox，andservedoutininfinitesimaldosesfromonetotenatatime，accordingtotheageofthepatients。Ihadalargemedicinechest，withallnecessarydrugs，butIwassorelytroubledbytheArabwomen，manyofwhomwerebarren，whoinsisteduponmysupplyingthemwithsomemedicinethatwouldremovethisstigmaandrenderthemfruitful。Itwasinvaintodenythem。I

thereforegavethemusuallyasmalldoseofipecacuanha，withthecomfortingwordtoanArab，"Inshallah，""ifitpleaseGod。"AtthesametimeIexplainedthatthemedicinewasoflittlevalue。

Onthefollowingmorning，duringthemarch，mywifehadarenewaloffever。WehadalreadypassedalargevillagenamedAbre，andthecountrywasaforestofsmalltrees，which，beinginleaf，threwadeliciousshade。Underatree，uponacomfortablebedofdrysand，wewerobligedtolayherforseveralhours，untiltheparoxysmpassed，andshecouldremountherdromedary。Thisshedidwithextremedifficulty，andwehurriedtowardCassala，fromwhichtownwewereonlyafewmilesdistant。

ForthelastfiftyorsixtymileswehadseentheCassalamountain——atfirstabluespeckabovethehorizon。Itnowroseinallthebeautyofasmoothandbareblockofgranite，about3，500

feetabovethelevelofthecountrywiththetownofCassalaatthebase，andtheroaringtorrentGashflowingatourfeet。Whenwereachedtheendoftheday'smarch，itwasbetween5and6

P。M。Thewalledtownwasalmostwashedbytheriver，whichwasatleast500yardswide。However，ourguidesassuredusthatitwasfordable，althoughdangerousonaccountofthestrengthofthecurrent。Camelsaremoststupidandnervousanimalsinwater。

thatriddenbymywifewasfortunatelybetterthanthegenerality。IsenttwoArabswithpoles，aheadofmycamel，andcarefullyledtheway。Afterconsiderabledifficulty，wefordedtheriversafely。thewaterwasnowhereabovefourfeetdeep，and，inmostplaces，itdidnotexceedthree。butthegreatrapidityofthestreamwouldhaverendereditimpossibleforthemetocrosswithouttheassistanceofpoles。Oneofourcamelslostitsfooting，andwascarriedhelplesslydowntheriverforsomehundredyards，untilitstrandeduponabank。

ThesunhadsunkwhenweenteredCassala。Itisawalledtown，surroundedbyaditchandflankingtowers，andcontainingabout8，000inhabitants，exclusiveoftroops。Thehousesandwallswereofunburntbrick，smearedwithclayandcow-dung。Aswerodethroughthedustystreets，IsentoffMahometwithmyfirmantotheMudir。and，notfindingasuitableplaceinsidethetown，I

returnedoutsidethewalls，whereIorderedthetentstobepitchedinaconvenientspotamongsomewildfig-trees。HardlywerethetentspitchedthanMahometreturned，accompaniedbyanofficerandtensoldiersasaguard，withapolitemessagefromtheMudirorgovernor，whohad，asusual，kissedthepotentfirman，andraisedittohisforehead，withthedeclarationthathewas"myservant，andthatallthatIrequiredshouldbeimmediatelyattendedto。"Shortlyafter，wewerecalleduponbyseveralGreeks，oneofwhomwasthearmydoctor，SignorGeorgis，who，withgreatkindness，offeredtosupplyallourwants。Mywifewasdreadfullyweakandexhausted，thereforeanundisturbednight'srestwasallthatwasrequired，withtheindependenceofourowntent。

Cassalaisrichinhyaenas，andthenightwaspassedinthediscordanthowlingofthesedisgustingbutusefulanimals:theyarethescavengersofthecountry，devouringeveryspeciesoffilth，andclearingallcarrionfromtheearth。Withoutthehyaenasandvultures，theneighbourhoodofaNubianvillagewouldbeunbearable。itistheidlecustomofthepeopletoleaveunburiedallanimalsthatdie。Thus，amongthenumerousflocksandherds，thecasualtieswouldcreateapestilencewereitnotforthebirdsandbeastsofprey。

Onthefollowingmorningthefeverhadyieldedtoquinine，andwewereenabledtoreceivearoundofvisits——thegovernorandsuite，EliasBey，thedoctorandafriend，and，lastly，MalemGeorgis，anelderlyGreekmerchant，who，withgreathospitality，insisteduponourquittingthesultrytentandsharinghisownroof。Wethereforebecamehisguestsinamostcomfortablehouseforsomedays。OurTurk，HadjiAchmet，returnedonhiswaytoBerber。wedischargedourcamels，andprepared-tostartafreshfromthispointfortheNiletributariesofAbyssinia。

CHAPTERIV。

ROUTEFROMCASSALATOSOUAKIM。

BYdeadreckoning，Cassalaisninety-threemilesS。S。E。ofGozerajup，orabout340milesfromBerber。Wehadriddenabout710milesfromKorosko，630milesofwhichhadbeenthroughscorchingdesertsduringthehottestseason。Wewere，therefore，thankfultoexchangetheintenseheatofthetentforasolidroof，andtorestforashorttimeinthepicturesquecountryofTaka。

ThedirectroutetoCassala，thecapitalofTaka，shouldbefromSueztoSouakim，ontheRedSea，andfromthenceinsixteendays，bycamel。Thus，weretherealinefromSueztoSouakimbysteamers，similartothatalreadyestablishedtoJedda，Cassalawouldbeonlytwenty-twodays'journeyfromCairo。Atpresent，thearrivalofsteamersatSouakimisentirelyuncertain。

thereforethetradeofthecountryisparalysedbytheapathyoftheEgyptianGovernment。TheAbdulAzzizCompanyruntheirsteamersregularlyfromSueztoJedda。and，althoughtheyadvertiseSouakimasaportofcall，thereisnodependencetobeplacedupontheannouncement。therefore，allmerchantsareafraidnotonlyofdelay，butofhighwarehousechargesatSouakim。Thelatterportisonlyfourdays'steamingfromSuez，and，beingthemostcentraldepotforallmerchandisebothtoandfromUpperEgypt，itwouldbecomeapointofgreatimportancewereregularmeansoftransportestablished。

CottonofexcellentqualitymaybegrowntoanunlimitedamountintheprovincesofUpperEgypt，andcouldbedeliveredatSouakimatatriflingcostoftransport。Alargequantityofgumarabiciscollectedthroughoutthiscountry，whichsellsinCassalaat20piastres(4s。2d。)thecantarof100lbs。Therearethreevarieties，producedfromvariousmimosas。thefinestqualityisgatheredintheprovinceofKordofan，butI

subsequentlymetwithlargequantitiesofthisspeciesintheBasecountry。Sennagrowswildinthedeserts，butthelowpricehardlypaysforthecostofcollection。Thereareseveralvarieties。thatwithextremelynarrowandsharp-pointedleavesispreferred。Itgrowsinsandysituationswherefewplantswouldexist。Thebushseldomexceedsthreefeetinheight，andisgenerallybelowthatstandard。butitisexceedinglythick，andrichinapalegreenfoliage，whichisastrongtemptationtothehungrycamel。Curiously，thispurgativeplantistheanimal'sbonnebouche，andisconsideredmostnourishingasfodder。

TheexportsoftheSoudanarelimitedtogumarabic，ivory，hides，senna，andbees'-wax。thelatteristheproduceofAbyssinia。Thesearticlesaregenerallycollectedbytravellingnativetraders，whoselltothelargermerchantsresidentinCassalaandKhartoum，thetwoprincipaltownsoftheSoudan。ThebazaarinCassalawaspoor，astheprincipalarticleswerethoseoflowprice，adaptedtothewantsoftheArabs，whoflocktothecapitalasasmallLondon，tomaketheirpurchasesofcloths，perfumeryforthewomen，coppercookingpots，&c。

Thefortificationsofthetown，althoughuselessagainstcannon，areconsideredbytheArabsasimpregnable。Thewallsareofsolidmudandsun-bakedbricks，carefullyloopholedformusketry，whileadeepfosse，bywhichitissurrounded，isasafeguardagainstasuddensurprise。

TheseengineeringprecautionswererenderednecessarybytheferocityoftheArabs，whofoughttheEgyptianswithgreatdeterminationforsomeyearsbeforetheywerefinallysubdued。

AlthoughtheweaponsofalltheArabtribesarethesimpleswordandlance，theydefendedtheircountryagainsttheregulartroopsofEgyptuntiltheywerecompletelydefeatedbyascarcityofwater，againstwhichtherecouldbenoresistance。TheEgyptiansturnedthecourseoftheriverGash，andentirelyshutoffthesupplyfromoneportionofthecountry，whiletheyinundatedanother。Thiswaseffectedbyanimmensedam，formedofthestemsofthedomepalms，asadoublerowofpiles，whiletheinteriorwasrenderedwater-tightbyaliningofmattingfilledupwithsand。

CassalawasbuiltabouttwentyyearsbeforeIvisitedthecountry，afterTakahadbeenconqueredandannexedtoEgypt。ThegeneralannexationoftheSoudanandthesubmissionofthenumerousArabtribestotheViceroyhavebeenthefirststepsnecessarytotheimprovementofthecountry。AlthoughtheEgyptiansarehardmasters，anddonottroublethemselvesaboutthefuturewell-beingoftheconqueredraces，itmustberememberedthat，priortotheannexation，allthetribeswereatwaramongthemselves。Therewasneithergovernmentnorlaw。thusthewholecountrywasclosedtoEuropeans。Atpresent，thereisnomoredangerintravellinginUpperEgyptthanincrossingHydeParkafterdark，providedthetravellerbejustandcourteous。AtthetimeofmyvisittoCassalain1861，theArabtribeswereseparatelygovernedbytheirownchiefsorsheiks，whowereresponsibletotheEgyptianauthoritiesforthetaxesduefromtheirpeople:sincethatperiod，theentiretribesofalldenominationshavebeenplacedundertheauthorityofthatgrandoldArabpatriarchAchmetAbouSinn，tobehereaftermentioned。

TheSheikMoosa，oftheHadendowatribe，wasinprisonduringourstayinthatcountry，forsomebreachofdisciplineinhisdealingswiththeEgyptianGovernment。TheironhandofdespotismhasproducedamarvellouschangeamongtheArabs，whoarerenderedutterlypowerlessbythesystemofgovernmentadoptedbytheEgyptians。unfortunately，thisharshsystemhastheeffectofparalysingallindustry。

TheprincipalobjectofTurksandEgyptiansinannexation，istoincreasetheirpoweroftaxationbygaininganadditionalnumberofsubjects。Thus，althoughmanyadvantageshaveaccruedtotheArabprovincesofNubiathroughEgyptianrule，thereexistsanamountofmistrustbetweenthegovernedandthegoverning。Notonlyarethecamels，cattle，andsheepsubjectedtoatax，buteveryattemptatcultivationisthwartedbytheauthorities，whoimposeafineortaxuponthesuperficia1areaofthecultivatedland。Thus，noonewillcultivatemorethanisabsolutelynecessary，ashedreadsthedifficultiesthatthebroadacresofwavingcropswouldentailuponhisfamily。Thebonafidetaxisabagatelletotheamountssqueezedfromhimbytheextortionatesoldiery，whoaretheagentsemployedbythesheik。thesemusthavetheirshareoftheplunder，inexcessoftheamounttobedeliveredtotheiremployer。he，also，musthavehisplunderbeforehepartswiththebagsofdollarstothegovernoroftheprovince。Thustheunfortunatecultivatorisgrounddown。shouldherefusetopaythenecessary"baksheesh"orpresenttothetax-collectors，somefalsechargeistrumpedupagainsthim，andheisthrownintoprison。Asagreenfieldisanattractiontoaflightoflocustsintheirdesolatingvoyage，soisaluxuriantfarmintheSoudanapointforthetax-collectorsofUpperEgypt。

Ihavefrequentlyriddenseveraldays'journeythroughasuccessionofemptyvillages，desertedbytheinhabitantsuponthereportofthesoldiers'approach。thewomenandchildren，goatsandcattle，camelsandasses，haveallbeenremovedintothewildernessforrefuge，whiletheircropsofcornhavebeenleftstandingfortheplunderers，whowouldbetooidletoreapandthrashthegrain。

Notwithstandingthemisrulethatfettersthestepsofimprovement，Naturehasbestowedsuchgreatcapabilitiesofproductioninthefertilesoilofthiscountry，thattheyieldofasmallsurfaceismorethansufficientfortherequirementsofthepopulation，andactualpovertyisunknown。Theaveragepriceofdhurraisfifteenpiastresper"rachel，"orabout3s。2d。for500lbs。uponthespotwhereitisgrown。Thedhurra(Sorghumandropogon)isthegrainmostcommonlyusedthroughouttheSoudan。therearegreatvarietiesofthisplant，ofwhichthemostcommonarethewhiteandthered。ThelandisnotonlyfavouredbyNaturebyitsfertility，buttheintenseheatofthesummeristhelabourer'sgreatassistant。Asbeforedescribed，allvegetationentirelydisappearsintheglaringSun，orbecomessodrythatitissweptoffbyfire。thusthesoilisperfectlycleanandfitforimmediatecultivationuponthearrivaloftherains。ThetoolgenerallyusedissimilartotheDutchhoe。Withthissimpleimplementthesurfaceisscratchedtothedepthofabouttwoinches，andtheseedsofthedhurraaredibbledinaboutthreefeetapart，inrowsfromfourtofivefeetinwidth。

Twoseedsaredroppedintoeachhole。Afewdaysafterthefirstshowertheyriseabovetheground，andwhenaboutsixincheshigh，thewholepopulationturnoutoftheirvillagesatbreakofdaytoweedthedhurrafields。SowninJuly，itisharvestedinFebruaryandMarch。EightmonthsarethusrequiredforthecultivationofthiscerealintheintenseheatofNubia。Forthefirstthreemonthsthegrowthisextremelyrapid，andthestemattainsaheightofsixorsevenfeet。WhenatperfectionontherichsoiloftheTakacountry，theplantaveragesaheightoftenfeet，thecircumferenceofthestembeingaboutfourinches。Thecrownisafeatherverysimilartothatofthesugarcane。theblossomfalls，andthefeatherbecomesaheadofdhurra，weighingabouttwopounds。Eachgrainisaboutthesizeofhemp-seed。

Itookthetroubleofcountingthecornscontainedinanaverage-sizedhead，theresultbeing4，848。Theprocessofharvestingandthrashingareremarkablysimple，astheheadsaresimplydetachedfromthestrawandbeatenoutinpiles。Thedriedstrawisasubstituteforsticksinformingthewallsofthevillagehuts。theseareplasteredwithclayandcow-dung，whichformtheArab'slathandplaster。

Themillers'workisexclusivelytheprovinceofthewomen。Therearenocircularhand-mills，asamongOrientalnations。butthecornisgrounduponasimpleflatstone，ofeithergneissorgranite，abouttwofeetinlengthbyfourteeninchesinwidth。

Thefaceofthisisroughenedbybeatingwithasharp-pointedpieceofharderstone，suchasquartz，orhornblende，andthegrainisreducedtoflourbygreatlabourandrepeatedgrindingorrubbingwithastonerolling-pin。Theflourismixedwithwaterandallowedtoferment。itisthenmadeintothinpancakesuponanearthenwareflatportablehearth。ThisspeciesofleavenedbreadisknowntotheArabsasthekisra。Itisnotverypalatable，butitisextremelywellsuitedtoArabcookery，asitcanberolleduplikeapancakeanddippedinthegeneraldishofmeatandgravyveryconveniently，intheabsenceofspoonsandforks。Nomanwillcondescendtogrindthecorn，andeventheArabwomenhavesuchanobjectiontothislabour，thatoneoftheconditionsofmatrimonyenforceduponthehusband，ifpossible，providesthewifewithaslavewomantopreparetheflour。

Hithertowehadalargestockofbiscuits，butasourdragomanMahomethad，inacuriousfitofamiability，dispensedthemamongthecamel-drivers，wewerenowreducedtotheArabkisras。

Althoughnotaspalatableaswheatenbread，theflourofdhurraisexceedinglynourishing，containing，accordingtoProfessorJohnston'sanalysis，elevenandahalfpercent。ofgluten，oroneandahalfpercent。morethanEnglishwheatenflour。Thusmenandbeaststhrive，especiallyhorses，whichacquireanexcellentcondition。

TheneighbourhoodofCassalaiswelladaptedforthepresenceofalargetownandmilitarystation，asthefertilesoilproducesthenecessarysupplies，whiletheriverGashaffordsexcellentwater。Intherainyseasonthisshouldbefiltered，asitbringsdownmanyimpuritiesfromthetorrentsofAbyssinia，butintheheatofsummertheriverisentirelydry，andclearandwholesomewaterisprocuredfromwellsinthesandybed。Thesouthandsouth-eastofCassalaiswildandmountainous，affordingexcellentlocalitiesforhillstationsduringtheunhealthyrainyseason。butsuchsanitaryarrangementsforthepreservationoftroopsareaboutasmuchheededbytheEgyptianGovernmentasbyourown，andregimentsareleftinunwholesomeclimatestotaketheirchance，althoughthemeansofsafetyareathand。

TheTakacountrybeingtheextremefrontierofEgypt，constantraidsaremadebytheEgyptiansupontheirneighbours——thehostileBase，throughwhichcountrytheriverGashorMarebdescends。IwasanxioustoprocurealltheinformationpossibleconcerningtheBase，asitwouldbenecessarytotraversethegreaterportioninexploringtheSettiteriver，whichistheprincipaltributaryoftheAtbara，andwhichisinfactthemainandparentstream，althoughbearingadifferentname。IheardbutoneopinionoftheBase——itwasawildandindependentcountry，inhabitedbyaferociousrace，whosehandwasagainsteveryman，andwhoinreturnweretheenemiesofallbywhomtheyweresurrounded——Egyptians，Abyssinians，Arabs，andMekNimmur。

nevertheless，secureintheirmountainousstronghold，theydefiedalladversaries。TheBaseisaportionofAbyssinia，buttheoriginofthetribethatoccupiesthisineradicablehornet'snestisunknown。WhethertheyaretheremnantoftheoriginalEthiopians，whopossessedthecountrypriortotheconquestsoftheAbyssinians，orwhethertheyaredescendedfromthewoolly-hairedtribesofthesouthbanksoftheBlueNile，isequallyamystery。allweknowisthattheyareofthesametypeastheinhabitantsofFazogle，oftheupperportionoftheBlueRiver。theyareexceedinglyblack，withwoollyhair，resemblinginthatrespectthenegro，butwithouttheflatnoseorprognathousjaw。Noquarterisgivenoneitherside，shouldtheBasemeettheArabs，withwhomwaristotheknife。Inspiteoftheoverwhelmingsuperiorityoftheiradversaries，theBasecannotbepositivelysubdued。armedwiththelanceastheironlyweapon，butdependinguponextremeagilityandthenaturaldifficultiesoftheirmountainpasses，theattackoftheBaseisalwaysbystealth。theirspiesareeverprowlingaboutunseenliketheleopard，andtheironsetisinvariablyasurprise。

successordefeatarealikefollowedbyarapidretreattotheirmountains。

AsthereisnothingtobeobtainedbytheplunderoftheBasebutwomenandchildrenasslaves，thecountryisgenerallyavoided，unlessvisitedfortheexpresspurposeofaslaverazzia。

Cultivationbeingextremelylimited，thegreaterportionofthecountryisperfectlywild，andisnevervisitedevenbytheBasethemselvesunlessforthepurposeofhunting。Severalbeautifulriversdescendfromthemountainranges，whichultimatelyflowintotheAtbara。these，unlikethelatterriver，areneverdry:

thus，withaconstantsupplyofwater，inacountryofforestandherbage，theBaseaboundsinelephants，rhinoceroses，hippopotami，giraffes，buffaloes，lions，leopards，andgreatnumbersoftheantelopetribe。

Cassala，thussituatedontheconfinesoftheTakacountry，isanimportantmilitarypointintheeventofwarbetweenEgyptandAbyssinia，astheBasewouldbeinvaluableasalliestotheEgyptians。theircountrycommandstheveryheartofAbyssinia，andtheirknowledgeoftheroadswouldbeanincalculableadvantagetoaninvadingforce。Onthe14thJulyIhadconcludedmyarrangementsforthestart。therehadbeensomedifficultyinprocuringcamels，buttheall-powerfulfirmanwasanever-failingtalisman，and，astheArabshaddeclinedtolettheiranimalsforhire，theGovernordespatchedanumberofsoldiersandseizedtherequirednumber，includingtheirowners。IengagedtwowildyoungArabsofeighteenandtwentyyearsofage，namedBacheetandWatGamma:thelatterbeinginterpretedsignifies"SonoftheMoon。"

Thisinnowaysuggestslunacy，buttheyoungArabhadhappenedtoenterthisworldonthedayofthenewmoon，whichwasconsideredtobeaparticularlyfortunateandbrilliantomenathisbirth。WhethertheclimaxofhisgoodfortunehadarrivedatthemomentheenteredmyserviceIknownot，but，ifso，therewasacloudoverhishappinessinhissubjectiontoMahometthedragoman，whorejoicedintheopportunityofbullyingthetwoinferiors。WatGammawasaquiet，steady，well-conductedlad，whoboreoppressionmildly。buttheyounger，Bacheet，wasafiery，wildyoungArab，who，althoughanexcellentboyinhispeculiarway，wasalmostincapableofbeingtamedanddomesticated。IatonceperceivedthatMahometwouldhaveadeterminedrebeltocontrol，whichIconfessIdidnotregret。Wageswerenothighinthispartoftheworld，——theladswereengagedatoneandahalfdollarpermonthandtheirkeep。Mahomet，whowasagreatman，sufferedfromthesamecomplainttowhichgreatmenare(inthosecountries)particularlysubject:whereverhewent，hewasattackedwithclaimantsofrelationship。hewasoverwhelmedwithprofessionsoffriendshipfrompeoplewhoclaimedtobeconnexionsofsomeofhisfamily。infact，ifalltheramificationsofhisracewerecorrectlyrepresentedbytheclaimantsofrelationship，Mahomet'sfamilytreewouldhaveshadedtheNubiandesert。

Weallhaveourfoibles:thestrongestforthasitsfeeblepoint，asthechainsnapsatitsweakestlink——familypridewasMahomet'sweaklink。Thiswashistenderpoint。andMahomet，thegreatandtheimperious，yieldedtothegentlescratchingofhisearifastrangerclaimedconnexionwithhisancientlineage。Ofcoursehehadnofamily，withtheexceptionofhiswifeandtwochildren，whomhehadleftinCairo。TheladywhomhehadhonouredbyanadmissiontothedomesticcircleoftheMahometswassufferingfromabrokenarmwhenwestartedfromEgypt，asshehadcookedthedinnerbadly，andthe"gaddah，"orlargewoodenbowl，hadbeenthrownatherbythenaturallyindignanthusband，preciselyashehadthrowntheaxeatonemanandthebasinatanother，whileinourservice:thesewerelittlecontretempsthatcouldhardlydisturbthedignityofsogreataman。MahometmetseveralrelationsatCassala:oneborrowedmoneyofhim。anotherstolehispipe。thethird，whodeclaredthatnothingshouldseparatethemnowthat"bytheblessingofGod"

theyhadmet，determinedtoaccompanyhimthroughallthedifficultiesofourexpedition，providedthatMahometwouldonlypermithimtoserveforlove，withoutwages。IgaveMahometsomelittleadviceuponthispoint，remindinghimthat，althoughtheclothesofthepartywereonlyworthafewpiastres，thespoonsandforksweresilver，thereforeIshouldholdhimresponsibleforthehonestyofhisfriend。Thisreflectionuponthefamilygavegreatoffence，andheassuredmethatAchmet，ourquondamacquaintance，wassoneararelationthathewas——Iassistedhiminthegenealogicaldistinction:"Mother'sbrother'scousin'ssister'smother'sson?Eh，Mahomet?""Yes，sar，that'sit!""Verywell，Mahomet。mindhedon'tstealthespoons，andthrashhimifhedoesn'tdohiswork!""Yes，sar，"repliedMahomet。"heallsamelikeonebrother，heonegoodmanwilldohisbusinessquietly。ifnot，masterlickhim。"ThenewrelationnotunderstandingEnglish，wasperfectlysatisfiedwiththesuccessofhisintroduction，andfromthatmomenthebecameoneoftheparty。Onemoreaddition，andourarrangementswerecompleted:——

theGovernorofCassalawasdeterminedthatweshouldnotstartwithoutarepresentativeoftheGovernment，intheshapeofasoldierguide。heaccordinglygaveusablackman，acorporalinoneoftheNubianregiments，whowassorenownedasasportsmanthathewentbythenameof"ElBaggar"(thecow)，onaccountofhishavingkilledseveraloftheoryxantelope，knownas"ElBaggaretWahash"(thecowofthedesert)。

Therainshadfairlycommenced，asaheavythunder-showergenerallyfellatabout2P。M。Onthe15th，theentiredaywaspassedintransportingourbaggageacrosstheriverGashtothepointfromwhichwehadstarteduponourarrivalatCassala:thisweaccomplishedwithmuchdifficulty，withtheassistanceofaboutahundredmensuppliedbytheGovernor，fromwhomwehadreceivedmuchattentionandpoliteness。Wecampedforthenightuponthemarginoftheriver，andmarchedonthefollowingmorningatdaybreakduewesttowardstheAtbara。

Thecountrywasagreatimprovementuponthatwehadhithertopassed。thetreeswerelarger，andvastplainsofyounggrass，interspersedwithgreenbush，stretchedtothehorizon。Thesoilwasanexceedinglyrichloam，mosttenaciouswhenwetted:farastheeyecouldreachtothenorthandwestofCassalawasthedeadlevelplain，whiletothesouthandeastaroseabrokenchainofmountains。

Wehadnotproceededmanymiles，whenthenumeroustracksofantelopesuponthesoil，moistenedbytheshowerofyesterday，provedthatwehadarrivedinasportingcountry。shortlyafter，wesawaherdofaboutfiftyariels(GazelleDama)。TostalkthesewaryantelopesIwasobligedtoseparatefrommyparty，whocontinuedontheirdirectroute。Ridinguponmycamel，Itriedeveryconceivabledodgewithoutsuccess。Icouldnotapproachthemnearerthanabout300yards。Theydidnotgallopoffatonce，butmadearushforafewhundredpaces，andthenfacedabouttogazeattheapproachingcamel。Afterhavingexhaustedmypatiencetonopurpose，Itriedanotherplan:insteadofadvancingagainstthewindasbefore，Imadeagreatcircuitandgavethemthewind。NosoonerwasIingoodcoverbehindamimosabushthanIdismountedfrommycamel，and，leadingituntilwithinviewoftheshyherd，Itiedittoatree，keepingbehindtheanimalsoastobewellconcealed。Isucceededinretreatingthroughthebushesunobserved，leavingthecamelasagazingpointtoattracttheirattention。RunningatmybestspeedtothesamepointfromwhichIhadcommencedmycircuit，andkeepingundercoverofthescatteredbushes，Ithusobtainedthecorrectwind，andstalkedupfrombushtobushbehindtheherd，whowerecuriouslywatchingthetiedcamel，thatwasquietlygazingonamimosa。InthiswayIhadsucceededingettingwithin150yardsofthebeautifulherd，whenasuddenfrightseizedthem，andtheyrushedoffinanoppositedirectiontothecamel，soastopassabout120yardsonmyleft。astheycamebyinfullspeed，I

singledoutasuperbanimal，andtriedthefirstbarrelofthelittleFletcherrifle。Iheardthecrackoftheball，andalmostimmediatelyafterwardstheherdpassedon，leavingonelaggingbehindataslowcanter。thiswasmywoundedariel，whoshortlyhalted，andlaiddowninanopenglade。Havingnodog，Itookthegreatestprecautioninstalking，asawoundedantelopeisalmostcertaintoescapeifoncedisturbedwhenithaslaindown。Therewasasmallwitheredstemofatreenotthickerthanaman'sthigh。thisgrewwithinthirtyyardsoftheantelope。myonlychanceofapproachwastotakealinedirectforthisslightobjectofcover。Thewindwasfavourable，andIcreptalongtheground。Ihadsucceededinarrivingwithinafewyardsofthetreewhenupjumpedtheantelope，andboundedoffasthoughunhurt。buttherewasnochanceforitatthisdistance，andI

rolleditoverwithashotthroughthespine。

Havingdonetheneedfulwithmybeautifulprize，andextractedtheinterior，Ireturnedformycamelthathadwellassistedinthestalk。HardlyhadIledtheanimaltothebodyoftheariel，whenIheardarushingsoundlikeastrongwind，anddowncameavulturewithitswingscollapsed，fallingfromanimmenseheightdirecttoitsprey，initseagernesstobethefirstintherace。

BythetimethatIhadfastenedthearielacrossthebackofthecamel，manyvulturesweresittinguponthegroundatafewyards'

distance，whileotherswerearrivingeveryminute:beforeIhadshottheariel，notavulturehadbeeninsight。theinstantthatIretreatedfromthespotaflockofravenousbeaksweretearingattheoffal。

IntheconstantdoublingnecessaryduringthestalkIhadquitelostmyway。Thelevelplaintothehorizon，coveredwithscatteredmimosas，offerednoobjectasaguide。Iwasexceedinglythirsty，astheheatwasintense，andIhadbeentakingrapidexercise。unfortunatelymywater-skinwasslunguponmywife'scamel。Howeverunpleasantthesituation，mypocketcompasswouldgivemethedirection，aswehadbeensteeringduewest。therefore，asIhadturnedtomyleftwhenIleftmyparty，acourseN。W。shouldbringmeacrosstheirtracks，iftheyhadcontinuedontheirroute。ThepositionoftheCassalamountainagreedwiththiscourse。therefore，remountingmydromedary，withthearielslungbehindthesaddle，Ihastenedtorejoinourcaravan。AfterabouthalfanhourIheardashotfirednotfarinadvance，andIshortlyjoinedtheparty，whohadfiredaguntogivemethedirection。Alonganddeeppullatthewater-skinwasthefirstsalutation。

Wehaltedthatnightnearasmallpondformedbytherecentheavyrain。Fortunatelytheskywasclear。therewasabundanceoffuel，andpotswereshortlyboilinganexcellentstewofarielvenisonandburntonions。ThelatterdeliciousbulbsaretheblessingofUpperEgypt:Ihavelivedfordaysuponnothingbutrawonionsandsun-driedrusks。Nothingissogoodasubstituteformeatasanonion。butifraw，itshouldbecutintothinslices，andallowedtosoakforhalfanhourinwater，whichshouldbepouredoff:theonionthuslosesitspungency，andbecomesmildandagreeable。withtheaccompanimentofalittleoilandvinegaritformsanexcellentsalad。

Thefollowingday'smarchledusthroughthesamedeadlevelofgrassyplainsandmimosas，enlivenedwithnumerousherdsofarielsandlargeblack-stripedgazelles(Dorcas)，oneofwhichI

succeededinshootingformypeople。Afterninehours'journeywearrivedatthe，valleyoftheAtbara，inallsixteenhours'

actualmarchingfromCassala。

TherewasanextraordinarychangeintheappearanceoftheriverbetweenGozerajupandthisspot。Therewasnolongerthevastsandydesertwiththeriverflowingthroughitssterilecourseonalevelwiththesurfaceofthecountry，butaftertraversinganapparentlyperfectflatofforty-fivemilesofrichalluvialsoil，wehadsuddenlyarrivedupontheedgeofadeepvalley，betweenfiveandsixmileswide，atthebottomofwhich，about200feetbelowthegenerallevelofthecountry，flowedtheriverAtbara。Ontheoppositesideofthevalley，thesamevasttablelandscontinuedtothewesternhorizon。

Wecommencedthedescenttowardstheriver。thevalleywasasuccessionofgulliesandravines，oflandslipsandwatercourses。

theentirehollow，ofmilesinwidth，hadevidentlybeentheworkoftheriver。Howmanyageshadtherainsandthestreambeenatworktoscoopoutfromtheflattablelandthisdeepandbroadvalley?HerewasthegiantlabourerthathadshovelledtherichloamuponthedeltaofLowerEgypt!Uponthesevastflatsoffertilesoiltherecanbenodrainageexceptthroughsoakage。Thedeepvalleyisthereforethereceptaclenotonlyforthewaterthatoozesfromitssides，butsubterraneanchannels，burstingasland-springsfromallpartsofthewallsofthevalley，washdownthemoresolubleportionsofearth，andcontinuallywasteawaythesoil。Landslipsoccurdailyduringtherainyseason。streamsofrichmudpourdownthevalley'sslopes，andastheriverflowsbeneathinaswollentorrent，thefriablebankstoppledownintothestreamanddissolve。TheAtbarabecomesthethicknessofpea-soup，asitsmuddywaterssteadilyperformthedutytheyhavefulfilledfromagetoage。Thuswasthegreatriveratworkuponourarrivalonitsbankatthebottomofthevalley。TheArabname，"BahrelAswat"(blackriver)waswellbestowed。itwastheblackmotherofEgypt，stillcarryingtoheroffspringthenourishmentthathadfirstformedtheDelta。

Atthispointofinterest，thejourneyhadcommenced。thedesertswerepassed，allwasfertilityandlife:whereverthesourcesoftheNilemightbe，theAtbarawastheparentofEgypt!Thiswasmyfirstimpression，tobeprovedhereafter。

CHAPTERV。

THESTORM。

AVIOLENTthunderstorm，withadelugeofrain，brokeuponourcampuponthebanksoftheAtbara，fortunatelyjustafterthetentswerepitched。Wethushadanexampleoftheextraordinaryeffectsoftheheavyrainintearingawaythesoilofthevalley。

Triflingwatercourseswereswollentotorrents。banksofearthbecameloosenedandfellin，andtherushofmudandwateruponallsidessweptforwardintotheriverwitharapiditywhichthreatenedthedestructionofthecountry，couldsuchatempestendureforafewdays。Inacoupleofhoursallwasover。Theriverwasnarrowerthaninitspassagethroughthedesert，butwasproportionatelydeeper。ThenameofthevillageontheoppositebankwasGoorashee，withwhichameansofcommunicationhadbeenestablishedbyaferry-boatbelongingtoourfriendandlatehost，MalemGeorgis，theGreekmerchantofCassala。Hehadmuchtroubleinobtainingpermissionfromtheauthoritiestointroducethisnovelty，whichwaslookeduponasaninnovation，assuchaconveniencehadneverbeforeexisted。TheenterprisingproprietorhadlikewiseestablishedacottonfarmatGoorashee，whichappearedtosucceedadmirably，andwasanundeniableexampleofwhatcouldbeproducedinthisfertilecountrywerethespiritofimprovementawakened。Notwithstandingtheadvantageoftheferry-boat，manyoftheArabspreferredtoswimtheircamelsacrosstherivertopayingatrifletotheferryman。A

cameleithercannotorwillnotswimunlessitissupportedbyinflatedskins:thusthepassageofthebroadriverAtbara(atthisspotabout300yardswide)isanaffairofgreatdifficulty。

Twowater-skinsareinflated，andattachedtothecamelbyabandpassedlikeagirthbeneaththebelly。Thusarranged，amansitsuponitsback，whileoneortwoswimbythesideasguides。ThecurrentoftheAtbararunsatarapidrate。thusthecamelisgenerallycarriedatleasthalfamiledowntheriverbeforeitcangaintheoppositebank。Afewdaysbeforeourarrival，amanhadbeensnatchedfromthebackofhiscamelwhilecrossing，andwascarriedoffbyacrocodile。Anothermanhadbeentakenduringthelastweekwhileswimmingtheriveruponalog。Itwassupposedthattheseaccidentswereduetothesamecrocodile，whowasaccustomedtobaskuponamudbankatthefootofthecottonplantation。OnthedayfollowingourarrivalattheAtbara，wefoundthatourcamel-drivershadabscondedduringthenightwiththeircamels。thesewerethemenwhohadbeenforcedtoservebytheGovernorofCassala。Therewasnopossibilityofproceedingforsomedays，thereforeIsentElBaggaracrosstherivertoendeavourtoengagecamels，whileIdevotedmyselftoasearchforthecrocodile。IshortlydiscoveredthatitwasunfairintheextremetochargeoneparticularanimalwiththedeathofthetwoArabs，asseverallargecrocodileswerelyinguponthemudinvariousplaces。Asmalleronewaslyingasleephighanddryuponthebank。thewindwasblowingstrong，sothat，bycarefullyapproaching，Isecuredagoodshotwithinthirtyyards，andkilleditonthespotbyabulletthroughthehead，placedaboutaninchabovetheeyes。

Aftersometime，thelargecrocodiles，whohadtakentothewateratthereportofthegun，againappeared，andcrawledslowlyoutofthemuddyrivertotheirbasking-placesuponthebank。A

crocodileusuallysleepswithitsmouthwideopen。Ithereforewaiteduntiltheimmensejawsofthenearestwerewellexpanded，showingagrandrowofglitteringteeth，whenIcreptcarefullytowardsitthroughthegardenofthickly-plantedcotton。BacheetandWatGammafollowedingreateagerness。InashorttimeI

arrivedwithinaboutfortyyardsofthebeast，asitlayuponaflatmudbankformedbyoneofthenumeroustorrentsthathadcarrieddownthesoilduringthestormofyesterday。Thecoverceased，anditwasimpossibletoapproachnearerwithoutalarmingthecrocodile。itwasafinespecimen，apparentlynineteenortwentyfeetinlength，andItookasteadyshotwiththelittleFletcherrifleatthetemple，exactlyinfrontofthepointofunionoftheheadwiththespine。Thejawsclashedtogether，andaconvulsivestartfollowedbyatwitchingofthetailledmetosupposethatsuddendeathhadsucceededtheshot。but，knowingthepeculiartenacityoflifepossessedbythecrocodile，Ifiredanothershotattheshoulder，asthehugebodylaysoclosetotheriver'sedgethattheslighteststrugglewouldcauseittodisappear。Tomysurprise，thisshot，farfromproducingaquietus，gaverisetoaseriesofextraordinaryconvulsivestruggles。Onemomentitrolleduponitsback，lashedoutrightandleftwithitstail，andendedbytopplingoverintotheriver。

ThiswastoomuchfortheexcitableBacheet，who，followedbyhisfriend，WatGamma，withmorecouragethandiscretion，rushedintotheriver，andendeavouredtocatchthecrocodilebythetail。

BeforeIhadtimetocallthemback，thesetwoArabwater-dogswereuptotheirnecksintheriver，screamingoutdirectionstoeachotherwhiletheywerefeelingforthebodyofthemonsterwiththeirfeet。AtlengthIsucceededincallingthemtoshore，andwealmostimmediatelysawthebodyofthecrocodileappearbellyupwards，aboutfiftyyardsdownthestream。theforepawswereabovethewater，but，afterrollingroundseveraltimes，itoncemoredisappeared，rapidlycarriedawaybythemuddytorrent。

ThiswasquiteenoughfortheArabs，whohadbeenwatchingtheeventfromtheoppositebankoftheriver，andthereportquicklyspreadthattwocrocodileswerekilled，oneofwhichtheydeclaredtobethepublicenemythathadtakenthemenattheferry，butuponwhatevidenceIcannotunderstand。AlthoughmyArabslookedforwardtoadinnerofcrocodileflesh，Iwasobligedtosearchforsomethingofrathermilderflavourforourselves。Iwaitedforaboutanhourwhilethefirstcrocodilewasbeingdivided，whenItookashotgunandsucceededinkillingthreegeeseandaspeciesofantelopenolargerthanahare，knownbytheArabsastheDik-dik(NanotragusHemprichianus)。Thislittlecreatureinhabitsthickbush。SincemyreturntoEngland，IhaveseenagoodspecimenintheZoologicalGardensoftheRegent'sPark。

Uponmyarrivalatthetents，Ifoundthecampredolentofmuskfromthefleshofthecrocodile，andthepeoplewerequarrellingforthemuskglands，whichtheyhadextracted，andwhicharemuchprizedbytheArabwomen，whowearthemstrunglikebeadsuponanecklace。

Acrocodilepossessesfourofsuchglands。theyvaryinsizeaccordingtotheageofthereptile，buttheyaregenerallyaboutaslargeasahazel-nut，whendried。Twoglandsaresituatedinthegroin，andtwointhethroat，alittleinadvanceofthefore-legs。IhavenoticedtwospeciesofcrocodilesthroughoutalltheriversofAbyssinia，andintheWhiteNile。Oneoftheseisofadarkbrowncolour，andmuchshorterandthickerinproportionthantheother，whichgrowstoanimmenselength，anisgenerallyofapalegreenishyellow。ThroughouttheAtbara，crocodilesareextremelymischievousandbold。thiscanbeaccountedforbytheconstantpresenceofArabsandtheirflocks，whichthecrocodileshaveceasedtofear，astheyexactaheavytributeintheirfrequentpassagesoftheriver。TheArabsassertthatthedark-coloured，thick-bodiedspeciesismoretobedreadedthantheother。

Thecommonbeliefthatthescalesofthecrocodilewillstopabulletisveryerroneous。Ifarifleisloadedwiththemoderatechargeoftwoandahalfdrachmsitwillthrowanounceballthroughthescalesofthehardestportionoftheback。butwerethescalesstruckobliquely，thebulletmightpossiblyglancefromthesurface，asinlikemanneritwouldricochetfromthesurfaceofwater。Thecrocodileissodifficulttokilloutright，thatpeopleareapttoimaginethatthescaleshaveresistedtheirbullets。Theonlyshotsthatwillproduceinstantdeatharethosethatstrikethebrainorthespinethroughtheneck。Ashotthroughtheshoulderisfatal。butasthebodyimmediatelysinks，anddoesnotreappearuponthesurfaceuntilthegaseshavedistendedthecarcase，thegameisgenerallycarriedawaybythestreambeforeithashadtimetofloat。Thebodyofacrocodilerequiresfromtwelvetoeighteenhoursbeforeitwillrisetothesurface，whilethatofthehippopotamuswillneverremainlongerthantwohoursbeneaththewater，andwillgenerallyriseinanhourandahalfafterdeath。Thisdifferenceintimedependsuponthedepthandtemperature。indeepholesoftheriveroffromthirtytofiftyfeet，thewaterismuchcoolernearthebottom，thusthegasisnotgeneratedinthebodysoquicklyasinshallowandwarmerwater。Thecrocodileisnotagrass-feeder，thereforethestomachiscomparativelysmall，andthecontentsdonotgeneratetheamountofgasthatsoquicklydistendsthehugestomachofthehippopotamus。thusthebodyoftheformerrequiresalongerperiodbeforeitwillrisetothesurface。

Intheeveningwecrossedwithourbaggageandpeopletotheoppositesideoftheriver，andpitchedourtentsatthevillageofGoorashee。Asmallwatercoursehadbroughtdownalargequantityofblacksand。Thinkingitprobablethatgoldmightexistinthesamelocality，Iwashedsomeearthinacopperbasin，andquicklydiscoveredafewspecksofthepreciousmetal。

GoldisfoundinsmallquantitiesinthesandoftheAtbara。atFazogle，ontheBlueNile，thereareminesofthismetalworkedbytheEgyptianGovermnent。FrommysubsequentexperienceIhavenodoubtthatvaluablemineralsexistinlargequantitiesthroughouttheloftychainofAbyssinianmountainsfromwhichtheseriversderivetheirsources。

Thecamelsarrived，andoncemorewewerereadytostart。Ourfactotum，ElBaggar，hadcollectedanumberofbothbaggage-camelsandridingdromedariesor"hygeens。"thelatterhehadbroughtforapproval，aswehadsufferedmuchfromtheextremeroughnessofourlatecamels。Thereisthesamedifferencebetweenagoodhygeenordromedaryandabaggage-camelasbetweenthethoroughbredandthecart-horse。anditappearsabsurdintheeyesoftheArabsthatamanofanypositionshouldrideabaggage-camel。Apartfromallideasofetiquette，themotionofthelatteranimalisquitesufficientwarning。Ofallspeciesoffatigue，theback-breakingmonotonousswingofaheavycamelistheworst。and，shouldtheriderlosepatience，andadministerasharpcutwiththecoorbatchthatinducesthecreaturetobreakintoatrot，thetortureoftherackisapleasantticklingcomparedtothesensationofhavingyourspinedrivenbyasledge-hammerfrombelow，halfafootdeeperintotheskull。Thehumanframemaybeinuredtoalmostanything。thustheArabs，whohavealwaysbeenaccustomedtothiskindofexercise，hardlyfeelthemotion，andtheportionofthebodymostsubjecttopaininridingaroughcamelupontwobarepiecesofwoodforasaddle，becomesnaturallyadaptedforsuchroughservice，asmonkeysbecomehardenedfromconstantlysittinguponroughsubstances。Thechildrencommencealmostassoonastheyareborn，astheymustaccompanytheirmothersintheirannualmigrations。andnosoonercantheyoungArabsitastrideandholdon，thanheisplacedbehindhisfather'ssaddle，towhichheclings，whilehebumpsuponthebarebackofthejoltingcamel。

【推荐阅读】幽幽深宫，醒来一梦似千年，重生于下堂妃身躯中的她，将如何手刃仇人? 点击阅读