Naturequicklyarrangesahornyprotectiontothenerves，bythethickeningoftheskin。thus，anArab'sopinionoftheactionofaridinghygeenshouldneverbeacceptedwithoutapersonaltrial。Whatappearsdelightfultohimmaybetorturetoyou，asastrongbreezeandaroughseamaybecharmingtoasailor，butworsethandeathtoalandsman。

IwasdeterminednottoacceptthecamelsnowofferedashygeensuntilIhadseenthemtried。IaccordinglyorderedourblacksoldierElBaggartosaddlethemosteasy-actionedanimalformywife，butIwishedtoseehimputitthroughavarietyofpacesbeforesheshouldacceptit。ThedelightedElBaggar，whofromlongpracticewasashardastheheelofaboot，disdaineda saddle。theanimalknelt，wasmounted，andoffhestartedatfulltrot，performingacircleofaboutfiftyyards'diameterasthoughinacircus。Ineversawsuchanexhibition!"Warrantedquiettoride，ofeasyaction，andfitforalady!"Thishadbeenthecharacterreceivedwiththerampantbrute，whonow，withheadandtailerect，wenttearingroundthecircle，screamingandroaringlikeawildbeast，throwinghisfore-legsforward，andsteppingatleastthreefeethighinhistrot。WherewasElBaggar?Adisjointed-lookingblackfigurewassometimesonthebackofthiseasy-goingcamel，sometimesafoothighintheair。

arms，head，legs，handsappearedlikeaconfusedmassofdislocations。thewoollyhairofthisunearthlyindividual，thathadbeencarefullytrainedinlongstiffnarrowcurls，preciselysimilartothetobaccoknownas"negro-head，"alternatelystarteduprightenmasse，asthoughundertheinfluenceofelectricity，andthenfellassuddenlyuponhisshoulders:hadthedarkindividualbeena"blackdose，"heoritcouldnothavebeenmorethoroughlyshaken。Thisobject，sothoroughlydisguisedbyrapidityofmovement，wasElBaggar。happy，delightedElBaggar!

Ashecamerapidlyroundtowardsusflourishinghiscoorbatch，I

calledtohim，"IsthatanicehygeenfortheSit(lady)，ElBaggar?isitVERYeasy?"Hewasalmostincapableofareply。

"V-e-r-ye-e-a-a-s-y，"repliedthetrustworthyauthority，"j-j-j-justthethin-n-n-gfortheS-i-i-i-t-t-t。""Allright，thatwilldo，"Ianswered，andthejockeypulleduphissteed。

"Aretheothercamelsbetterorworsethanthat?"Iasked。"Muchworse，"repliedElBaggar。"theothersareratherrough，butthisisaneasy-goer，andwillsuittheladywell。"

Itwasimpossibletohireagoodhygeen。anArabprizeshisridinganimaltoomuch，andinvariablyrefusestoletittoastranger，butgenerallyimposesuponhimbysubstitutingsomelightly-builtcamel，thathethinkswillpassmuster。I

accordinglychoseformywifeasteady-goinganimalfromamongthebaggage-camels，trustingtobeabletoobtainahygeenfromthegreatsheikAbouSinn，whowasencampedupontheroadwewereabouttotakealongthevalleyoftheAtbara。wearrangedtoleaveGoorasheeonthefollowingday。

Uponarrivingatthehighestpointofthevalley，wefoundourselvesonthevasttablelandthatstretchesfromtheAtbaratotheNile。Atthisseasontheentiresurfacehadafainttintofgreen，astheyoungshootsofgrasshadrepliedtothelateshowersofrain。soperfectalevelwasthisgreattractoffertilecountry，thatwithinamileofthevalleyoftheAtbaratherewasneitherfurrownorwatercourse，buttheescapeoftherainfallwasbysimplesoakage。Asusual，thelandwasdottedwithmimosas，allofwhichwerenowburstingintoleaf。ThethornsofthedifferentvarietiesofthesetreesareanextraordinaryfreakofNature，assheappearstohaveexhaustedallherartinproducinganapparentlyuselessarrangementofdefence。ThemimosasthataremostcommonintheSoudanprovincesaremerebushes，seldomexceedingsixfeetinheight。thesespreadouttowardsthetoplikemushrooms，butthebranchescommencewithintwofeetoftheground。theyarearmedwiththornsintheshapeoffish-hooks，whichtheyresembleinsharpnessandstrength。Athickjunglecomposedofsuchbushesisperfectlyimpenetrabletoanyanimalsbutelephants，rhinoceroses，andbuffaloes。andshouldtheclothesofamanbecomeentangledinsuchthorns，eithertheymustgiveway，orhemustremainaprisoner。ThemimosathatisknownamongtheArabsastheKittarisoneoftheworstspecies，andisprobablysimilartothatwhichcaughtAbsalombythehair。thisdiffersfromthewell-known"Wait-a-bit"ofSouthAfrica，asnomildernicknamecouldbeappliedthan"Dead-stop。"Weretheclothesofstrongmaterial，itwouldbeperfectlyimpossibletobreakthroughakittar-bush。

Amagnificentspecimenofakittar，withawide-spreadingheadintheyounggloryofgreenleaf，temptedmyhungrycamelduringourmarch。itwasdeterminedtoprocureamouthful，andIwasequallydeterminedthatitshouldkeeptothestraightpath，andavoidtheattractionofthegreenfood。Aftersomestrongremonstranceuponmypart，theperversebeastshookitsuglyhead，gavearoar，andstartedoffinfulltrotstraightatthethornybush。

Ihadnottheslightestcontrolovertheanimal，andinafewsecondsitchargedthebushwiththemadintentionofrushingeitherthroughorbeneathit。TomydisgustIperceivedthatthewide-spreadingbrancheswereonlyjustsufficientlyhightopermitthebackofthecameltopassunderneath。Therewasnotimeforfurtherconsideration。wechargedthebush。Iheldmyheaddoubledupbetweenmyarms，andthenextmomentIwasonmyback，halfstunnedbythefall。Thecamel-saddlelayupontheground。myrifle，thathadbeenslungbehind，mycoffee-pot，thewater-skinburst，andahostofotherimpedimenta，layaroundmeinalldirections。worstofall，mybeautifulgoldrepeaterlayatsomedistancefromme，renderedentirelyuseless。IwasasnearlynakedasIcouldbe。afewragsheldtogether，butmyshirtwasgone，withtheexceptionofsomeshredsthatadheredtomyarms。Iwas，ofcourse，streamingwithblood，andlookedmuchmoreasthoughIhadbeenclawedbyaleopardthanashavingsimplychargedabush。ThecamelhadfallendownwiththeshockafterIhadbeensweptoffbythethornybranches。TothisdayI

havethemarksofthescratching。

Unlessariding-camelisperfectlytrained，itisthemosttiresomeanimaltorideafterthefirstgreenleavesappear。

everybushtemptsitfromthepath，anditisaperpetualfightbetweentheriderandhisbeastthroughoutthejourney。

Weshortlyhaltedforthenight，asIhadnoticedunmistakeablesignsofanapproachingstorm。Wequicklypitchedthetents，grubbeduptherootandstemofadecayedmimosa，andlightedafire，bythesideofwhichourpeoplesatinacircle。Hardlyhadthepilebeguntoblaze，whenacryfromMahomet'snewrelative，Achmet，informedusthathehadbeenbittenbyascorpion。

Mahometappearedtothinkthishighlyentertaining，untilsuddenlyhescreamedoutlikewise，andspringingfromtheground，hebegantostampandwringhishandsingreatagony:hehadhimselfbeenbitten，andwefoundthatawholenestofscorpionswereintherottenwoodlatelythrownuponthefire。intheirflightfromtheheattheystungallwhomtheymet。Therewasnotimetopreparefood。thethunderalreadyroaredaboveus，andinafewminutesthesky，latelysoclear，wasasblackasink。I

hadalreadypreparedforthestorm，andthebaggagewaspiledwithinthetent。theropesofthetentshadbeenleftslacktoallowforthecontraction，andwewerereadyfortherain。Itwasfortunatethatwewereinorder。araindescended，withanaccompanimentofthunderandlightning，ofavolumeunknowntotheinhabitantsofcoolerclimates。forseveralhourstherewasalmostanuninterruptedroarofthemostdeafeningpeals，withlightningsovividthatourtentwascompletelylightedupinthedarknessofthenight，anditsmiserydisplayed。Notonlywastherainpouringthroughtheroofsothatwewerewetthroughaswecroucheduponourangareps(stretchers)，butthelegsofourbedsteadstoodinmorethansixinchesofwater。BeingaswetasIcouldbe，Iresolvedtoenjoythesceneoutsidethetent。itwascuriousintheextreme。Flashafterflashofsharpforkedlightningplayeduponthesurfaceofaboundlesslake。therewasnotafootoflandvisible，butthenumerousdarkbushesprojectingfromthesurfaceofthewaterdestroyedtheillusionofdepththatthescenewouldotherwisehavesuggested。Therainceased，buttheentirecountrywasfloodedseveralinchesdeep。

andwhenthemoredistantlightningflashedasthestormrolledaway，Isawthecamelslyinglikestatuesbuiltintothelake。Onthefollowingmorningthewholeofthisgreatmassofwaterhadbeenabsorbedbythesoil，whichhadbecomesoadhesiveandslipperythatitwasimpossibleforthecamelstomove。wethereforewaitedforsomehours，untiltheintenseheatofthesunhaddriedthesurfacesufficientlytoallowtheanimalstoproceed。

Uponstrikingthetent，wefoundbeneaththevalancebetweenthecrownandthewallsaregimentofscorpions。thefloodhaddoubtlessdestroyedgreatnumberswithintheirholes，butthese，havingbeendisturbedbythedeluge，hadfoundanasylumbycrawlingupthetentwalls:withgreatdifficultywelightedafire，andcommittedthemalltotheflames。Mahometmadeagreatfussabouthishand，whichwascertainlymuchswollen，butnotworsethanthatofAchmet，whodidnotcomplain，althoughduringthenighthehadbeenagainbittenonthelegbyoneofthesevenomousinsects，thathadcrawledfromthewateruponhisclothes。DuringourjourneythatmorningparallelwiththevalleyoftheAtbara，Ihadanexcellentopportunityofwatchingtheeffectofthestorm。Werodealongtheabruptmarginofthetableland，whereitbrokesuddenlyintothedeepvalley。fromthesidesofthisthewaterwasoozinginalldirections，creatinglittleavalanchesofearth，whichfellastheylosttheirsolidityfromtoomuchmoisture。ThiswonderfullyrichsoilwasrollinggraduallytowardsLowerEgypt。Fromtheheightsabovetheriverwehadabeautifulviewofthestream，whichatthisdistance，reflectingthebrightsunlight，didnotappearlikethethickliquidmudthatweknewittobe。ThevalleywasofthesamegeneralcharacterthatwehadremarkedatGoorashee，butmoreabrupt——amassoflandslips，deepravines，shadedbymimosas，whiletheimmediateneighbourhoodoftheAtbarawasclothedwiththebrightestgreenfoliage。Inthispart，thevalleywasaboutthreemilesinwidth，andtwohundredfeetdeep。

ThecommencementoftherainyseasonwasawarningtoalltheArabsofthiscountry，whowerepreparingfortheirannualmigrationtothesandyandfirmdesertonthewestbankoftheriver，atGozerajup。thatregion，sobarrenanddesolateduringthehotseason，wouldshortlybecoveredwithadelicategrassabouteighteenincheshigh。Atthatfavouredspottherainsfellwithlessviolence，anditformedanucleusforthegeneralgatheringofthepeoplewiththeirflocks。

Weweretravellingsouthattheveryseasonwhenthenativesweremigratingnorth。Isawplainlythatitwouldbeimpossibleforustocontinueourjourneyduringthewetseason，asthecamelshadthegreatestdifficultyincarryingtheirloadsevennow，atthecommencement:theirfeetsankdeepintothesoil。thisformedadhesiveclodsupontheirspongytoes，thatalmostdisabledthem。

Thefartherwetravelledsouth，themoreviolentwouldtherainsbecome，andalongtropicalexperiencewarnedmethattherainyseasonwasthesignalforfevers。AllthecamelsoftheArabswerebeingdrivenfromthecountry。wehadalreadymetmanyherdstravellingnorthward，butthisday'smarchwasthroughcrowdsoftheseanimals，principallyfemaleswiththeiryoung，manythousandsofwhichwereontheroad。Someoftheyoungfoalsweresosmallthattheycouldnotendurethemarch。thesewereslunginnetsuponthebacksofcamels，whilethemotherfollowedbehind。Werevelledinmilk，aswehadnotbeenabletoprocureitsinceweleftCassala。Somepersonsdislikethemilkofthecamel。Ithinkitisexcellenttodrinkpure，butitdoesnotansweringeneraluseformixingwithcoffee，withwhichitimmediatelycurdles。itisextremelyrich，andisconsideredbytheArabstobemorenourishingthanthatofthecow。TopersonsofdelicatehealthIshouldinvariablyrecommendboiledmilkinpreferencetoplain。andshouldthedigestionbesoextremelyweakthatliquidmilkdisagreeswiththestomach，theyshouldallowittobecomethick，similartocurdsandwhey:thisshouldbethenbeatentogether，withtheadmixtureofalittlesaltandcayennepepper。itthenassumesthethicknessofcream，andisverypalatable。TheArabsgenerallyprepareitinthismanner。itisnotonlyconsideredtobemorewholesome，butinitsthickenedstateitiseasiertocarryuponajourney。WithanapologytoEuropeanmedicalmen，IwouldsuggestthattheyshouldtrytheArabsystemwhenevertheyprescribeamilkdietforadelicatepatient。Thefirstoperationofcurdling，whichisaseveretrialtoaweakstomach，isperformedinhotclimatesbytheatmosphere，asintemperateclimatesbytheadmixtureofrennet，&c……thusthemostdifficultworkofthestomachiseffectedbyaforeignagency，anditissparedthefirstactofitsperformance。Ihavewitnessedalmostmarvellousresultsfromamilkdietgivenasnowadvised。

Milk，ifdrunkwarmfromtheanimalinhotclimateswillaffectmanypersonsinthesamemannerasapowerfuldoseofsennaandsalts。Ourpartyappearedtobeproofagainstsuchanaccident，astheydrankenoughtohavestockedamoderate-sizeddairy。Thiswasmostgood-naturedlysuppliedgratisbytheArabs。

Itwastheseasonofrejoicing。everybodyappearedingoodhumour。thedistendeduddersofthousandsofcamelswereanassuranceofplenty。Theburningsunthatforninemonthshadscorchedtheearthwasveiledbypassingclouds。thecattlethathadpantedforwater，andwhosefoodwaswitheredstraw，werefilledwithjuicyfodder:thecamelsthathadsubsisteduponthedriedandleaflesstwigsandbranches，nowfeasteduponthesucculenttopsofthemimosas。Throngsofwomenandchildrenmounteduponcamels，protectedbythepeculiargaudysaddlehood，ornamentedwithcowrie-shells，accompaniedthemarch。thousandsofsheepandgoats，drivenbyArabboys，werestragglinginalldirections。baggage-camels，heavilyladenwiththequainthouseholdgoods，blockeduptheway。thefinebronzedfiguresofArabs，withswordandshield，andwhitetopes，orplaids，guidedtheirmilk-whitedromedariesthroughtheconfusedthrongwiththeusualplaciddignityoftheirrace，simplypassingbywiththeusualgreeting，"Salaamaleikum，""Peacebewithyou。"

ItwastheExodus。allwerehurryingtowardsthepromisedland——"thelandflowingwithmilkandhoney，"wheremenandbeastswouldbesecure，notonlyfromthefeversofthesouth，butfromthatdeadlyenemytocamelsandcattle，thefly。thisterribleinsectdroveallbeforeit。

Ifallwererightinmigratingtothenorth，itwasalogicalconclusionthatwewerewrongingoingtothesouthduringtherainyseason。however，wenowheardfromtheArabsthatwewerewithinacoupleofhours'marchfromthecampofthegreatSheikAchmetAbouSinn，towhomIhadaletterofintroduction。Attheexpirationofaboutthattimewehalted，andpitchedthetentsamongsomeshadymimosas，whileIsentMahomettoAbouSinnwiththeletter，andmyfirman。

Iwasbusilyengagedinmakingsundrynecessaryarrangementsinthetent，whenMahometreturned，andannouncedthearrivalofthegreatsheikinperson。Hewasattendedbyseveralofhisprincipalpeople，andasheapproachedthroughthebrightgreenmimosas，mounteduponabeautifulsnow-whitehygeen，Iwasexceedinglystruckwithhisvenerableanddignifiedappearance。

UponneararrivalIwentforwardtomeethim，andtoassisthimfromhiscamel。buthisanimalkneltimmediatelyathiscommand，andhedismountedwiththeeaseandagilityofamanoftwenty。

HewasthemostmagnificentspecimenofanArabthatIhaveeverseen。Althoughupwardsofeightyyearsofage，hewasaserectasalance，anddidnotappearmorethanbetweenfiftyandsixty。hewasofHerculeanstature，aboutsixfeetthreeincheshigh，withimmenselybroadshouldersandchest。aremarkablyarchednose。

eyeslikeaneagle，beneathlarge，shaggy，butperfectlywhiteeyebrows。asnow-whitebeardofgreatthicknessdescendedbelowthemiddleofhisbreast。Heworealargewhiteturban，andawhitecashmereabbai，orlongrobe，fromthethroattotheankles。Asadesertpatriarchhewassuperb，theveryperfectionofallthattheimaginationcouldpaint，ifwewouldpersonifyAbrahamattheheadofhispeople。ThisgrandoldArabwiththegreatestpolitenessinsisteduponourimmediatelyaccompanyinghimtohiscamp，ashecouldnotallowustoremaininhiscountryasstrangers。Hewouldhearofnoexcuses，butheatoncegaveorderstoMahomettohavethebaggagerepackedandthetentsremoved，whilewewererequestedtomounttwosuperbwhitehygeens，withsaddle-clothsofbluePersiansheep-skins，thathehadimmediatelyaccoutredwhenheheardfromMahometofourmiserablecamels。Thetentwasstruck，andwejoinedourvenerablehostwithalineofwildandsplendidly-mountedattendants，whofollowedustowardsthesheik'sencampment。

CHAPTERVI。

SHEIKACHMETABOUSINN。

AMONGtheretinueoftheagedsheik，whomwenowaccompanied，weretenofhissons，someofwhomappearedtobequiteasoldastheirfather。Wehadriddenabouttwomiles，whenweweresuddenlymetbyacrowdofmountedmen，armedwiththeusualswordsandshields。manywereonhorses，othersuponhygeens，andalldrewupinlinesparallelwithourapproach。ThesewereAbouSinn'speople，whohadassembledtogiveusthehonorarywelcomeasguestsoftheirchief。thisetiquetteoftheArabsconsistsingallopingsinglyatfullspeedacrossthelineofadvance，theriderflourishingtheswordoverhishead，andatthesamemomentreininguphishorseuponitshaunchessoastobringittoasuddenhalt。Thishavingbeenperformedbyaboutahundredridersuponbothhorsesandhygeens，theyfellintolinebehindourparty，and，thusescorted，weshortlyarrivedattheArabencampment。Inallcountriesthewarmthofapublicwelcomeappearstobeexhibitedbynoise——thewholeneighbourhoodhadcongregatedtomeetus。crowdsofwomenraisedthewildshrillcrythatissoundedalikeforjoyorsorrow。drumswerebeat。mendashedaboutwithdrawnswordsandengagedinmimicfight，andinthemidstofdinandconfusionwehaltedanddismounted。Withpeculiargraceofmannertheoldsheikassistedmywifetodismount，andledhertoanopenshedarrangedwithangareps(stretchers)coveredwithPersiancarpetsandcushions，soastoformadivan。Sherbet，pipes，andcoffeewereshortlyhandedtous，andMahomet，asdragoman，translatedthecustomaryinterchangeofcompliments。thesheikassuredusthatourunexpectedarrivalamongthemwas"liketheblessingofanewmoon，"thedepthofwhichexpressionnoonecanunderstandwhohasnotexperiencedlifeinthedesert，wherethefirstfaintcrescentisgreetedwithsuchenthusiasm。Afteralongconversationwewereledtoanexcellentmattentthathadbeenvacatedbyoneofhissons，andshortlyafterwardsanadmirabledinnerofseveraldisheswassenttous，whilewithextremegoodtastewewereleftundisturbedbyvisitorsuntilthefollowingmorning。Ourmenhadbeenregaledwithafatsheep，presentedbythesheik，andallsleptcontentedly。

AtsunrisewewerevisitedbyAbouSinn。Itappearedthat，afterourconversationoftheprecedingevening，hehadinquiredofMahometconcerningmyfutureplansandintentions。henowcamespeciallytoimploreusnottoproceedsouthatthisseasonoftheyear，asitwouldbeperfectlyimpossibletotravel。hedescribedthecountryasamassofmud，renderedsodeepbytherainsthatnoanimalcouldmove。thattheflycalledthe"seroot"

hadappeared，andthatnodomesticanimalexceptagoatcouldsurviveitsattack。hedeclaredthattocontinueourroutewouldbemereinsanity:andheconcludedbygivingusamosthospitableinvitationtojoinhispeopleontheirroadtothehealthycountryatGozerajup，andtobecomehisguestsforthreeorfourmonths，untiltravellingwouldbefeasibleinthesouth，atwhichtimehepromisedtoassistmeinmyexplorationsbyanescortofhisownpeople，whowerecelebratedelephanthunters，andknewtheentirecountrybeforeus。Thiswasanalluringprogramme。butafterthankinghimforhiskindness，IexplainedhowmuchI

dislikedtoretracemysteps，whichIshoulddobyreturningtoGozerajup。andthatasIhadheardofaGermanwhowaslivingatthevillageofSofi，ontheAtbara，Ishouldprefertopasstheseasonoftherainsatthatplace，whereIcouldgatherinformation，andbereadyonthespottostartfortheneighbouringBasecountrywhenthechangeofseasonshouldpermit。Aftersomehesitationheconsentedtothisplan，andpromisednotonlytomountusonourjourney，buttosendwithusanescortcommandedbyoneofhisgrandsons。Sofiwasaboutseventy-eightmilesdistant。

AbouSinnhadarrangedtomovenorthwardsonthefollowingday。

wethereforeagreedtopassonedayinhiscamp，andtoleaveforSofithenextmorning。ThegrounduponwhichtheArabencampmentwassituatedwasatolerablyflatsurface，likeashelf，upontheslopeoftheAtbaravalley，aboutthirtyorfortyfeetbelowtherichtablelands。thesurfaceofthiswasperfectlyfirm，asbytheconstantrainsithadbeenentirelydenudedoftheloamthathadformedtheupperstratum。Thisformedacharmingplacefortheencampmentofalargeparty，asthegroundwasperfectlyclean，amixtureofquartzpebblesuponahardwhitesandstone。

Numerousmimosasaffordedashade，beneathwhichtheArabssatingroups，andatthebottomofthevalleyflowedtheAtbara。

Thistribe，whichwaspeculiarlythatofAbouSinn，andfromwhichhehadsprung，wastheShookeriyah，oneofthemostpowerfulamongthenumeroustribesofUpperEgypt。

FromKoroskotothispointwehadalreadypassedtheBedouins，Bishareens，Hadendowas，Hallongas，untilwehadenteredtheShookeriyahs。OnthewestofourpresentpositionweretheJalyns，andtothesouthnearSofiweretheDabainas。ManyofthetribesclaimarighttothetitleofBedouins，asdescendedfromthatrace。ThecustomsofalltheArabsarenearlysimilar，andthedistinctioninappearanceisconfinedtoapeculiarityindressingthehair。thisisamatterofgreatimportanceamongbothmenandwomen。Itwouldbetedioustodescribetheminutiaeofthevariouscoiffures，butthegreatdesirewithalltribes，excepttheJalyn，istohaveavastquantityofhairarrangedintheirownpeculiarfashion，andnotonlysmeared，butcoveredwithasmuchfatascanbemadetoadhere。Thus，shouldamanwishtogethimselfupasagreatdandy，hewouldputatleasthalfapoundofbutterorotherfatuponhishead。thiswouldbeworkedupwithhiscoarselocksbyafriend，untilitsomewhatresembledacauliflower。Hewouldthenarrangehistopeorplaidofthickcottoncloth，andthrowoneendoverhisleftshoulder，whileslungfromthesameshoulderhiscircularshieldwouldhanguponhisback。suspendedbyastrapovertherightshoulderwouldhanghislongtwo-edgedbroadsword。

FatisthegreatdesideratumofanArab。hishead，asIhavedescribed，shouldbeamassofgrease。herubshisbodywithoilorotherointment。hisclothes，i。e。hisonegarmentortope，iscoveredwithgrease，andinternallyheswallowsasmuchashecanprocure。

ThegreatSheikAbouSinn，whoisupwardsofeighty，asuprightasadart，aperfectHercules，andwhosechildrenandgrandchildrenarelikethesandofthesea-shore，hasalwaysconsumeddailythroughouthislifetworottolis(pounds)ofmeltedbutter。AshorttimebeforeIleftthecountryhemarriedanewyoungwifeaboutfourteenyearsofage。Thismaybeahinttooctogenarians。

Thefatmostesteemedfordressingthehairisthatofthesheep。

Thisundergoesacuriouspreparation，whichrendersitsimilarinappearancetocoldcream。upontherawfatbeingtakenfromtheanimalitischewedinthemouthbyanArabforabouttwohours，beingfrequentlytakenoutforexaminationduringthattime，untilithasassumedthedesiredconsistency。Topreparesufficienttoenableamantoappearinfulldress，severalpersonsmustbeemployedinmasticatingfatatthesametime。

Thisspeciesofpomade，whenproperlymade，isperfectlywhite，andexceedinglylightandfrothy。Itmaybeimaginedthatwhenexposedtoaburningsun，thebeautyofthehead-dressquicklydisappears，buttheoilthenrunsdowntheneckandback，whichisconsideredquitecorrect，especiallywhenthetopebecomesthoroughlygreased。themanisthenperfectlyanointed。WehadseenanamusingexanmpleofthiswhenonthemarchfromBerbertoGozerajup。TheTurk，HadjiAchmet，hadpressedintoourservice，asaguideforafewmiles，adandywhohadjustbeenarrangedasacauliflower，withatleasthalfapoundofwhitefatuponhishead。Asweweretravellingupwardsoffourmilesanhourinanintenseheat，duringwhichhewasobligedtorun，thefatranquickerthanhedid，andattheendofacoupleofhoursboththedandyandhispomadewereexhausted。thepoorfellowhadtoreturntohisfriendswiththetotallossofpersonalappearanceandhalfapoundofbutter。

NotonlyaretheArabsparticularintheirpomade，butgreatattentionisbestoweduponperfumery，especiallybythewomen。

VariousperfumesarebroughtfromCairobythetravellingnativemerchants。amongwhichthosemostindemandareoilofroses，oilofsandalwood，anessencefromtheblossomofaspeciesofmimosa，essenceofmusk，andtheoilofcloves。Thewomenhaveapeculiarmethodofscentingtheirbodiesandclothesbyanoperationthatisconsideredtobeoneofthenecessariesoflife，andwhichisrepeatedatregularintervals。Inthefloorofthetent，orhut，asitmaychancetobe，asmallholeisexcavatedsufficientlylargetocontainacommon-sizedchampagnebottle:afireofcharcoal，orofsimplyglowingenmbers，ismadewithinthehole，intowhichthewomanabouttobescentedthrowsahandfulofvariousdrugs。shethentakesofftheclothortopewhichformsherdress，andcrouchesnakedoverthefumes，whileshearrangesherrobetofallasamantlefromhernecktothegroundlikeatent。Whenthisarrangementisconcludedsheisperfectlyhappy，asnoneofthepreciousfumescanescape，allbeingretainedbeneaththerobe，preciselyasifsheworeacrinolinewithanincense-burnerbeneathit，whichwouldbeafarmoresimplewayofperformingtheoperation。Shenowbeginstoperspirefreelyinthehot-airbath，andtheporesoftheskinbeingthusopenedandmoist，thevolatileoilfromthesmokeoftheburningperfumesisimmediatelyabsorbed。

Bythetimethatthefirehasexpired，thescentingprocessiscompleted，andbothherpersonandrobeareredolentofincense，withwhichtheyaresothoroughlyimpregnatedthatIhavefrequentlysmeltapartyofwomenstronglyatfullahundredyards'distance，whenthewindhasbeenblowingfromtheirdirection。Ofcoursethiskindofperfumeryisonlyadaptedforthosewholiveintentsandintheopenair，butitisconsideredbytheladiestohaveapeculiarattractionfortheothersex，asvalerianissaidtoensnarethegenusfelis。Asthemenaresaidtobealluredbythisparticularcombinationofsweetsmells，andtofallvictimstothedelicacyoftheirnasalorgans，itwillbenecessarytogivethereceiptforthefatalmixture，tobemadeupinproportionsaccordingtotaste:——Ginger，cloves，cinnamon，frankincense，sandal-wood，myrrh，aspeciesofsea-weedthatisbroughtfromtheRedSea，andlastly，whatImistookforshells，butwhichIsubsequentlydiscoveredtobethehornydiscthatclosestheaperturewhenashell-fishwithdrawsitselfwithinitsshell。thesearealsobroughtfromtheRedSea，inwhichtheyaboundthroughouttheshoresofNubiaandAbyssinia。Inadditiontothecharmofsweetperfumes，thewomenwhocanaffordtheluxury，suspendfromtheirnecksafewpiecesofthedriedglandsofthemuskcat，whichisanativeofthecountry。suchanadditioncompletesthetoilet，whenthecoiffurehasbeencarefullyarranged。

Hair-dressinginallpartsoftheworld，bothcivilizedandsavage，isabranchofscience。savagenegrotribesaredistinguishedbythevariousarrangementsoftheirwoollyheads。

Arabsaremarkedbysimilarpeculiarities，thathaveneverchangedforthousandsofyears，andmaybeyetseendepicteduponthewallsofEgyptiantemplesinthepreciseformsaswornatpresent，whileinmoderntimestheperfectionofarthasbeeninthewigofaLordChancellor。Althoughthislatterexampleoftheresultofscienceisnottheactualhairofthewearer，itaddsanimposingglowofwisdomtothegeneralappearance，andmayhaveoriginatedasanecessitywhereadeficiencyofsagacityhadexisted，andwheretheabsenceofyearsrequiredthefictitiouscrownofgreyoldage。Abarristerinhiswig，andthesameamountoflearningwithoutthewig，isaverydifferentaffair。

heisanimperfectshadowofhimself。Nevertheless，amongcivilizednations，themendonotgenerallybestowmuchanxietyuponthefashionoftheirhair。thelabourinthisbranchofartisgenerallyperformedbythewomen，whoinallcountriesandclimes，andineverystageofcivilization，bestowthegreatestpainsupontheperfectionofthecoiffure，thevariousarrangementsofwhichmight，Ishouldimagine，beestimatedbythemillion。Insomecountriestheyarenotevencontentedwiththenaturalcolourofthehair，eitherifblackorblonde，buttheyuseapigmentthatturnsitred。IonlynoticedthisamongtheSomaulitribe。andthatoftheNuehr，someofthewildestsavagesoftheWhiteNile，untilIreturnedtoEngland，whereI

foundthecustomwasbecominggeneralamongthecivilized，andthatladieswereadoptingthelovelytintoftheBritishfox。TheArabwomendonotindulgeinfashions。strictlyconservativeintheirmannersandcustoms，theyneverimitate，buttheysimplyviewitheachotherinthesuperlativenessoftheirownstyle。

thusthedressingofthehairisamostelaborateaffair，whichoccupiesaconsiderableportionoftheirtime。ItisquiteimpossibleforanArabwomantoarrangeherownhair。shethereforeemploysanassistant，who，ifcleverintheart，willgenerallyoccupyaboutthreedaysbeforeitissatisfactorilyconcluded。First，thehairmustbecombedwithalongskewer-likepin。then，whenwelldivided，itbecomespossibletouseanexceedinglycoarsewoodencomb。Whenthehairisreducedtoreasonableorderbythelatterprocess，avigoroushunttakesplace，whichoccupiesaboutanhour，accordingtotheamountofgamepreserved。thesportconcluded，thehairisrubbedwithamixtureofoilofroses，myrrh，andsandal-wooddustmixedwithapowderofclovesandcassia。Whenwellgreasedandrenderedsomewhatstiffbythesolidsthusintroduced，itisplaitedintoatleasttwohundredfineplaits。eachoftheseplaitsisthensmearedwithamixtureofsandal-wooddustandeithergumwaterorpasteofdhurraflour。Onthelastdayoftheoperation，eachtinyplaitiscarefullyopenedbythelonghair-pinorskewer，andtheheadisravissante。Scentedandfrizzledinthismanner，withawell-greasedtopeorrobe，theArablady'stoiletiscomplete，herheadisthenalittlelargerthanthelargestsizedEnglishmop，andherperfumeissomethingbetweenthearomaofaperfumer'sshopandthemonkey-houseattheZoologicalGardens。

Thisisconsidered"verykilling，"andIhavebeenquiteofthatopinionwhenacrowdofwomenhavevisitedmywifeinourtent，withthethermometerat95degrees，andtheyhavekindlyconsentedtoallowmetoremainasoneoftheparty。Itishardlynecessarytoadd，thattheoperationofhair-dressingisnotoftenperformed，butthattheeffectispermanentforaboutaweek，duringwhichtimethegamebecomesoexcessivelylively，thatthecreaturesrequirestirringupwiththelonghair-pinorskewerwhenevertoounruly。thisappearstobeconstantlynecessaryfromthevigorousemploymentoftherulingsceptreduringconversation。AleveeofArabwomeninthetentwasthereforeadisagreeableinvasion，aswedreadedthefugitives。

fortunately，theyappearedtoclingtothefollowersofMahometinpreferencetoChristians。

TheplagueoflicebroughtupontheEgyptiansbyMoseshascertainlyadheredtothecountryeversince，if"lice"isthepropertranslationoftheHebrewwordintheOldTestament:itismyownopinionthattheinsectsthusinflicteduponthepopulationwerenotlice，butticks。Exod。viii。16，"ThedustbecamelicethroughoutallEgypt。"again，Exod。viii。17，"Smotedust……itbecameliceinmanandbeast。"Nowthelousethatinfectsthehumanbodyandhairhasnoconnexionwhateverwith"dust，"andifsubjecttoafewhours'exposuretothedryheatoftheburningsand，itwouldshrivelanddie。butthetickisaninhabitantofthedust，adryhornyinsectwithoutanyapparentmoistureinitscomposition。itlivesinhotsandanddust，whereitcannotpossiblyobtainnourishment，untilsomewretchedanimalshouldliedownuponthespot，andbecomecoveredwiththesehorriblevermin。Ihavefrequentlyseendesertplacessoinfestedwithticks，thatthegroundwasperfectlyalivewiththem，anditwouldhavebeenimpossibletohaverestedontheearth。insuchspots，thepassageinExodushasfrequentlyoccurredtomeasbearingreferencetothesevermin，whicharethegreatestenemiestomanandbeast。Itiswellknownthat，fromthesizeofagrainofsandintheirnaturalstate，theywilldistendtothesizeofahazel-nutafterhavingpreyedforsomedaysuponthebloodofananimal。TheArabsareinvariablyinfestedwithlice，notonlyintheirhair，butupontheirbodiesandclothes。eventhesmallcharmsorspellswornuponthearminneatly-sewnleathernpacketsarefullofthesevermin。SuchspellsaregenerallyversescopiedfromtheKoranbytheFaky，orpriest，whoreceivessomesmallgratuityinexchange。themenwearseveralofsuchtalismansuponthearmabovetheelbow，butthewomenwearalargebunchofcharms，asasortofchatelaine，suspendedbeneaththeirclothesroundthewaist。Althoughthetopeorrobe，looselybutgracefullyarrangedaroundthebody，appearstobethewholeofthecostume，thewomenwearbeneaththisgarmentathinbluecottonclothtightlyboundroundtheloins，whichdescendstoalittleabovetheknee。beneaththis，nexttotheskin，isthelastgarment，therahat——thelatteristheonlyclothingofyounggirls，andmaybeeitherperfectlysimpleoradornedwithbeadsandcowrieshellsaccordingtothefancyofthewearer。itisperfectlyeffectiveasadress，andadmirablyadaptedtotheclimate。

Therahatisafringeoffinedarkbrownorreddishtwine，fastenedtoabelt，andwornroundthewaist。Oneithersidearetwolongtassels，thataregenerallyornamentedwithbeadsorcowries，anddanglenearlytotheankles，whiletherahatitselfshoulddescendtoalittleabovetheknee，rathershorterthanaHighlandkilt。Nothingcanbeprettierormoresimplethanthisdress，which，althoughshort，isofsuchthicklyhangingfringe，thatitperfectlyanswersthepurposeforwhichitisintended。

ManyoftheArabgirlsareremarkablygood-looking，withfinefiguresuntiltheybecomemothers。Theygenerallymarryattheageofthirteenorfourteen，butfrequentlyattwelve，orevenearlier。Untilmarried，therahatistheirsolegarment。

ThroughouttheArabtribesofUpperEgypt，chastityisanecessity，asanoperationisperformedattheearlyageoffromthreetofiveyearsthatthoroughlyprotectsallfemales，andwhichrendersthemphysicallyproofagainstincontinency。

Thereisbutlittlelove-makingamongtheArabs。Theaffairofmatrimonyusuallycommencesbyapresenttothefatherofthegirl，which，ifaccepted，isfollowedbyasimilaradvancetothegirlherself，andthearrangementiscompleted。Allthefriendsofbothpartiesarecalledtogetherforthewedding。pistolsandgunsarefiredoff，ifpossessed。Thereismuchfeasting，andtheunfortunatebridegroomundergoestheordealofwhippingbytherelationsofhisbride，inordertotesthiscourage。Sometimesthispunishmentisexceedinglysevere，beinginflictedwiththecoorbatchorwhipofhippopotamushide，whichiscrackedvigorouslyabouthisribsandback。Ifthehappyhusbandwishestobeconsideredamanworthhaving，hemustreceivethechastisementwithanexpressionofenjoyment。inwhichcasethecrowdsofwomenagainraisetheirthrillingcryinadmiration。

Aftertherejoicingsofthedayareover，thebrideisledintheeveningtotheresidenceofherhusband，whileabeatingofdrumsandstrummingofguitars(rhababas)arekeptupforsomehoursduringthenight，withtheusualdiscordantideaofsinging。

ThereisnodivorcecourtamongtheArabs。Theyarenotsufficientlyadvancedincivilizationtoacceptapecuniaryfineasthepriceofawife'sdishonour。butastrokeofthehusband'ssword，orastabwiththeknife，isgenerallythereadyremedyforinfidelity。AlthoughstrictlyMahometans，thewomenareneverveiled。neitherdotheyadopttheexcessivereserveassumedbytheTurksandEgyptians。TheArabwomenaregenerallyidle。andoneoftheconditionsofacceptingasuitoris，thatafemaleslaveistobeprovidedforthespecialuseofthewife。NoArabwomanwillengageherselfasadomesticservant。thus，solongastheirpresentcustomsshallremainunchanged，slavesarecreaturesofnecessity。AlthoughthelawofMahometlimitsthenumberofwivesforeachmantofouratonetime，theArabwomendonotappeartorestricttheirhusbandstothisallowance，andtheslavesoftheestablishmentoccupythepositionofconcubines。

ThecustomsoftheArabsinalmosteverydetailhaveremainedunchanged。Thus，indress，intheirnomadichabits，food，theanointingwithoil(Eccles。ix。8，"Letthygarmentsbealwayswhite，andletthyheadlacknoointment")，theyretainthehabitsandformalitiesofthedistantpast，andthepresentisbuttheexactpictureofthoseperiodswhicharehistoricallyrecordedintheOldTestament。Theperfumeryofthewomenalreadydescribed，bearsaresemblancetothatpreparedbyMosesforthealtar，whichwasforbiddentobeusedbythepeople。"Takethoualsountotheeprincipalspices，ofpuremyrrhfivehundredshekels，andofsweetcinnamonhalfsomuch，eventwohundredandfiftyshekels，andofsweetcalamustwohundredandfiftyshekels，andofcassiafivehundredshekels，aftertheshekelofthesanctuary，andofoiloliveanhin:andthoushaltmakeitanoilofholyointment，anointmentcompoundaftertheartoftheapothecary:itshallbeanholyanointingoil。"——Exod。xxx。23-25。

ThemannerofanointingbytheancientsisexhibitedbytheArabsatthepresentday，who，asIhavealreadydescribed，makeuseofsolargeaquantityofgreaseatoneapplicationthat，whenmelted，itrunsdownovertheirpersonsandclothes。InPs。cxxxiii。2，"Itislikethepreciousointmentuponthehead，thatrandownuponthebeard，evenAaron'sbeard，thatwentdowntotheskirtsofhisgarments。"

Inallhotclimates，oilorotherfatisnecessarytotheskinasaprotectionfromthesun，wherethebodyiseithernakedorverythinlyclad。IhavefrequentlyseenbothArabsandthenegrotribesofAfricasuffergreatdiscomfortwhenforsomedaysthesupplyofgreasehasbeenexhausted。theskinhasbecomecoarse，rough，almostscaly，andpeculiarlyunsightly，untilthemuch-lovedfathasbeenobtained，andthegeneralappearanceofsmoothnesshasbeenatoncerestoredbyanactivesmearing。TheexpressioninPs。civ。15，"Andoiltomakehisfacetoshine，"

describestheeffectthatwasthenconsideredbeautifying，asitisatthepresenttime。

TheArabsgenerallyadherestrictlytotheirancientcustoms，independentlyofthecomparativelyrecentlawsestablishedbyMahomet。Thus，concubinageisnotconsideredabreachofmorality。neitherisitregardedbythelegitimatewiveswithjealousy。TheyattachgreatimportancetothelawsofMoses，andtothecustomsoftheirforefathers。neithercantheyunderstandthereasonforachangeofhabitinanyrespectwherenecessityhasnotsuggestedthereform。TheArabsarecreaturesofnecessity。theirnomadiclifeiscompulsory，astheexistenceoftheirflocksandherdsdependsuponthepasturage。Thus，withthechangeofseasonstheymustchangetheirlocalities，accordingtothepresenceoffodderfortheircattle。Driventoandfrobytheaccidentsofclimate，theArabhasbeencompelledtobecomeawanderer。andpreciselyasthewildbeastsofthecountryaredrivenfromplacetoplaceeitherbythearrivalofthefly，thelackofpasturage，orbythewantofwater，evensomusttheflocksoftheArabobeythelawofnecessity，inacountrywheretheburningsunandtotalabsenceofrainforninemonthsoftheyearconvertthegreenpasturesintoasandydesert。TheArabsandtheirherdsmustfollowtheexampleofthewildbeasts，andliveaswildandwanderingalife。Intheabsenceofafixedhome，withoutacity，orevenavillagethatispermanent，therecanbenochangeofcustom。Thereisnostimulustocompetitioninthestyleofarchitecturethatistoendureonlyforafewmonths。nomunicipallawssuggestdeficienciesthatoriginateimprovements。TheArabcannothaltinonespotlongerthanthepasturagewillsupporthisflocks。thereforehisnecessityisfoodforhisbeasts。Theobjectofhislifebeingfodder，hemustwanderinsearchoftheever-changingsupply。Hiswantsmustbefew，astheconstantchangesofencampmentnecessitatethetransportofallhishouseholdgoods。thushereducestoaminimumthedomesticfurnitureandutensils。Nodesiresforstrangeandfreshobjectsexcitehismindtoimprovement，oralterhisoriginalhabits。hemustlimithisimpedimenta，notincreasethem。Thuswithafewnecessaryarticlesheiscontented。Matsforhistent，ropesmanufacturedwiththehairofhisgoatsandcamels，potsforcarryingfat。water-jarsandearthenwarepotsorgourd-shellsforcontainingmilk。leatherwater-skinsforthedesert，andsheep-skinbagsforhisclothes，——thesearetherequirementsoftheArabs。Theirpatternshaveneverchanged，butthewater-jarofto-dayisofthesameformthatwascarriedtothewellbythewomenofthousandsofyearsago。TheconversationoftheArabsisintheexactstyleoftheOldTestament。ThenameofGodiscoupledwitheverytriflingincidentinlife，andtheybelieveinthecontinualactionofDivinespecialinterference。Shouldafamineafflictthecountry，itisexpressedinthesternlanguageoftheBible——"TheLordhassentagrievousfamineupontheland。"or，"TheLordcalledforafamine，anditcameupontheland。"Shouldtheircattlefallsick，itisconsideredtobeanafflictionbyDivinecommand。orshouldtheflocksprosperandmultiplyparticularlyduringoneseason，theprosperityisattributedtospecialinterference。

NothingcanhappenintheusualroutineofdailylifewithoutadirectconnexionwiththehandofGod，accordingtotheArab'sbelief。

ThisstrikingsimilaritytothedescriptionsoftheOldTestamentisexceedinglyinterestingtoatravellerwhenresidingamongthesecuriousandoriginalpeople。WiththeBibleinonehand，andtheseunchangedtribesbeforetheeyes，thereisathrillingillustrationofthesacredrecord。thepastbecomesthepresent。

theveilofthreethousandyearsisraised，andthelivingpictureisawitnesstotheexactnessofthehistoricaldescription。Atthesametime，thereisalightthrownuponmanyobscurepassagesintheOldTestamentbytheexperienceofthepresentcustomsandfiguresofspeechoftheArabswhicharepreciselythosethatwerepractisedattheperiodsdescribed。I

donotattempttoenteruponatheologicaltreatise，thereforeitisunnecessarytoalludespeciallytotheseparticularpoints。

Thesuddenanddesolatingarrivalofaflightoflocusts，theplague，oranyotherunforeseencalamity，isattributedtotheangerofGod，andisbelievedtobeaninflictionofpunishmentuponthepeoplethusvisited，preciselyastheplaguesofEgyptwerespeciallyinflicteduponPharaohandtheEgyptians。

ShouldthepresenthistoryofthecountrybewrittenbyanArabscribe，thestyleofthedescriptionwouldbepurelythatoftheOldTestament。andthevariouscalamitiesorthegoodfortunesthathaveinthecourseofnaturebefallenboththetribesandindividuals，wouldberecountedeitherasspecialvisitationsofDivinewrath，orblessingsforgooddeedsperformed。Ifinadreamaparticularcourseofactionissuggested，theArabbelievesthatGodhasspokenanddirectedhim。TheArabscribeorhistorianwoulddescribetheeventasthe"voiceoftheLord"

("kallamelAllah")，havingspokenuntotheperson。or，thatGodappearedtohiminadreamand"said，"&c。ThusmuchallowancewouldbenecessaryonthepartofaEuropeanreaderforthefigurativeideasandexpressionsofthepeople。AstheArabsareunchanged，thetheologicalopinionswhichtheynowholdarethesameasthosewhichprevailedinremoteages，withthesimpleadditionoftheirbeliefinMahometastheProphet。

ThereisafascinationintheunchangeablefeaturesoftheNileregions。TherearethevastPyramidsthathavedefiedtime。theriveruponwhichMoseswascradledininfancy。thesamesandydesertsthroughwhichheledhispeople。andthewatering-placeswheretheirflockswereledtodrink。ThewildandwanderingtribesofArabswhothousandsofyearsagodugoutthewellsinthewilderness，arerepresentedbytheirdescendantsunchanged，whonowdrawwaterfromthedeepwellsoftheirforefatherswiththeskinsthathaveneveralteredtheirfashion。TheArabs，gatheringwiththeirgoatsandsheeparoundthewellsto-day，recalltherecollectionofthatdistanttimewhen"Jacobwentonhisjourney，andcameintothelandofthepeopleoftheeast。

Andhelooked，andbeholdawellinthefield。and，lo，therewerethreeflocksofsheeplyingbyit，foroutofthatwelltheywateredtheflocks。andagreatstonewasuponthewell'smouth。

Andthitherwerealltheflocksgathered。andtheyrolledthestonefromthewell'smouth，andwateredthesheep，andputthestoneagainuponthewell'smouthinhisplace。"ThepictureofthatscenewouldbeanillustrationofArabdailylifeintheNubiandeserts，wherethepresentisthemirrorofthepast。

CHAPTERVII

THEDEPARTURE。

ONthemorningofthe25thJuly，1861，AbouSinnarrivedatourtentwithanumberofhisfollowers，intheirwhitestapparel，accompaniedbyoneofhisgrandsons，SheikAli，whowastocommandourescortandtoaccompanyustothefrontieroftheDabainatribe，atwhichspotweweretobehandedovertothecareofthesheikofthoseArabs，AtalanWatSaid，whowouldconductustoSofi。Thereweretwosuperbhygeensdulyequippedformywifeandmyself:theyweresnow-white，withoutspeckorblemish，andascleanandsilk-likeasgoodgroomingcouldaccomplish。OneofthesebeautifulcreaturesIsubsequentlymeasured，——sevenfeetthreeandahalfinchestothetopofthehump。thiswasmuchabovetheaverage。Thebaggage-camelswerelefttothechargeoftheservants，andwewererequestedtomountimmediately，astheSheikAbouSinnwasdeterminedtoaccompanyusforsomedistanceasamarkofcourtesy，althoughhewashimselftomarchwithhispeopleonthatdayintheoppositedirectiontowardsGozerajup。Escortedbyourgrandoldhost，withagreatnumberofmountedattendants，weleftthehospitablecamp，andfollowedthemarginoftheAtbaravalleytowardsthesouth，until，atthedistanceofabouttwomiles，AbouSinntookleave，andreturnedwithhispeople。

Wenowenjoyedthecontrastbetweenthelightactivestepoffirst-classhygeens，andtheheavyswingingactionofthecamelswehadhithertoridden。Travellingwasforthefirsttimeapleasure。therewasadelightfulmovementintheelasticityofthehygeens，whoambledataboutfivemilesandahalfanhour，astheirnaturalpace。thistheycancontinuefornineortenhourswithoutfatigue。Havingnocarefortheluggage，andthecoffee-potbeingslunguponthesaddleofanattendant，whoalsocarriedourcarpet，wewereperfectlyindependent，aswewerepreparedwiththeusualluxuriesuponhalting，——thecarpettoreclineuponbeneathashadytree，andacupofgoodTurkishcoffee。Thuswecouldaffordtotravelatarapidrate，andawaitthearrivalofthebaggage-camelsattheendoftheday'sjourney。Inthismannerthemarchshouldbearrangedinthesewildcountries，wherethereisnoresting-placeuponthepathbeyondthefirstinvitingshadethatsuggestsahalt。Theday'sjourneyshouldbeabouttwenty-fourmiles。Aloadedcamelseldomexceedstwomilesandahalfperhour。atthisratenearlytenhourswouldbeconsumedupontheroaddaily，duringwhichtimethetravellerwouldbeexposedtotheintenseheatofthesun，andtothefatigueinseparablefromalongandslowmarch。A

servantmounteduponagoodhygeenshouldaccompanyhimwiththecoffeeapparatusandacoldroastfowlandbiscuits。theevernecessarycarpetshouldformthecovertohissaddle，tobereadywhenrequired。hethenridesfarinadvanceofthecaravan。Thissimplearrangementinsurescomfort，andlessenstheennuiofthejourney。thebaggage-camelsareleftinchargeofresponsibleservants，tobebroughtforwardattheirusualpace，untiltheyshallarriveattheplaceselectedforthehaltbythetraveller。

Theusualhourofstartingisabout5。30A。M。Theentireday'sjourneycanbeaccomplishedinsomethingunderfivehoursuponhygeens，insteadofthetenhoursdrearypaceofthecaravan。

thus，thefinalhaltwouldbemadeatabout10。30A。M。atwhichtimethetravellerwouldbereadyforbreakfast。Thecarpetwouldbespreadunderashadytree。uponabranchofthishiswater-skinshouldbesuspended，andtheday'sworkover，hecanwriteuphisjournalandenjoyhispipewhilecoffeeisbeingprepared。Afterbreakfasthecantakehisgunorrifleandexploretheneighbourhood，untilthebaggage-camelsshallarriveintheevening，bywhichtime，ifheisasportsman，hewillhaveprocuredsomethingforthedinneroftheentireparty。Theservantswillhavecollectedfirewood，andallwillbereadyforthearrivalofthecaravan，withouttheconfusionandbustleofageneralscramble，inseparablefromtheworktobesuddenlyperformed，whencamelsmustbeunloaded，fuelcollected，fireslighted，themealsprepared，bedsmade，&c。&c。allatthesamemoment，withthechanceoflittletoeat。Nothingkeepsthecamel-driversandattendantsinsuchgoodhumourasasuccessfulrifle。Whiletheyareontheirlongandslowmarch，theyspeculateuponthegoodluckthatmayattendthemaster'sgun，anduponarrivalatthegeneralbivouacintheeveningtheyarealwaysonthealerttoskinanddividetheantelopes，plucktheguinea-fowls，&c。&c。Wenowtravelledinthisdelightfulmanner。

thereweregreatnumbersofguinea-fowlthroughoutthecountry，whichwasthesameeverlastingflatandrichtableland，extendingforseveralhundredmilestothesouth，anddottedwithgreenmimosas。whileuponourleftwasthebrokenvalleyoftheAtbara。

Theonlydrawbacktothejourneywastherain。Atabout2P。M。

dailyweweresubjectedtoaviolentstorm，whichgenerallylasteduntiltheevening。andalthoughourguidesinvariablyhurriedforwardonthemarchtotheneighbourhoodofsomedesertedhuts，whoseoccupantshadmigratednorth，ourbaggageandservantsupontheroadwereexposedtothestorm，andarrivedlateintheevening，wetandmiserable。Therecouldbenodoubtthattheseasonfortravellingwaspast。Everyday'sjourneysouthhadprovedbytheincreasedvegetationthatwewereinvadingtherainyzone，andthat，althoughthenortherndesertspossessedtheirhorrorsofsandydesolation，theyatthesametimeaffordedthatgreatadvantagetothetraveller，adryclimate。

InafewrapidmarcheswearrivedatTomat，thecommencementoftheDabainasandtheprincipalhead-quartersofthesheikofthattribe，AtalanWatSaid。Thiswasalovelyspot，wherethecountryappearedlikegreenvelvet，asthedelicateyounggrasswasabouttwoinchesabovetheground。TheArabcampwassituateduponaseriesofknollsaboutahundredandfiftyfeetabovetheAtbara，uponthehardgrounddenudedbytherains，asthisformedaportionofthevalley。Atthisspot，thevalleyonthewestbankoftheriverwasabouttwomilesbroad，andexhibitedtheusualfeaturesofinnumerableknolls，ravines，andlandslips，insuccession，likebrokenterracesfromthehighleveltableland，slopingdownirregularlytothewater'sedge。Ontheoppositesideoftheriverwasthemostimportantfeatureofthecountry。

thelandontheeastbankwasconsiderablyhigherthanuponthewest，andalongtongueformedabluffcliffthatdividedtheAtbaravalleyfromthesistervalleyoftheSettite，which，correspondingexactlyincharacterandapparentdimensions，joinedthatoftheAtbarafromtheS。E。，forminganangleliketheletterV，inasuddenbendoftheriver。ThroughthevalleyoftheeasternbankflowedthegrandriverSettite，whichhereformedajunctionwiththeAtbara。

Lookingdownuponthebeautifullywoodedbanksofthetworiversatthisinterestingpoint，werodeleisurelyacrossaravine，andascendedasteepinclineofbrightgreengrass，uponthesummitofwhichwasafinelevelspaceofseveralacresthatformedtheArabhead-quarters。Thissurfacewasnearlycoveredwiththeusualmattents，andinafewmomentsourcamelskneltbeforethatofthesheik，atwhichwedismounted。AcrowdofinquisitiveArabssurroundedusuponseeingsolargeapartyofhygeens，andthefirmanhavingbeendeliveredbyourguide，SheikAli，wewerealmostimmediatelyvisitedbySheikAtalanWatSaid。Hewasamanintheprimeoflife，ofanintelligentcountenance，andhereceiveduswithmuchpoliteness，immediatelyorderingafatsheeptobebroughtandslaughteredforouracceptance。

Theusualwelcomeuponthearrivalofatraveller，whoiswellreceivedinanArabcamp，isthesacrificeofafatsheep，thatshouldbeslaughteredatthedoorofhishutortent，sothatthebloodflowstothethreshold。Thiscustomhasevidentlysomeconnexionwiththeancientritesofsacrifice。Shouldanimportantexpeditionbeundertaken，acalfisslaughteredattheentranceofthecamp，andeveryindividualstepsoverthebodyasthepartystartsupontheenterprise。

Uponlearningmyplans，hebeggedustoremainthroughtherainyseasonatTomat，asitwasthehead-quartersofapartyofEgyptianirregulartroops，whowouldassistmeineveryway。Thiswasnogreattemptation，astheywerethepeoplewhomImostwishedtoavoid。IthereforeexplainedthatIwasboundtoSofibytheadviceofAbouSinn，fromwhenceIcouldeasilyreturnifIthoughtproper，butIwishedtoproceedonthefollowingmorning。Hepromisedtoactasourguide，andthathygeensshouldbewaitingatthetent-dooratsunrise。Afterourinterview，I

strolleddowntotheriver'ssideandshotsomeguinea-fowl。

TheSettiteistheriverparexcellence，asitistheprincipalstreamofAbyssinia，inwhichcountryitbearsthenameof"Tacazzy。"Abovethejunction，theAtbaradoesnotexceedtwohundredyardsinwidth。Bothrivershavescoopedoutdeepandbroadvalleysthroughouttheircourse。thisfactconfirmedmyfirstimpressionofthesupplyofsoilhavingbeenbroughtdownbytheAtbaratotheNile。ThecountryontheoppositeoreasternbankoftheAtbaraiscontestedground。inrealityitformsthewesternfrontierofAbyssinia，ofwhichtheAtbarariveristheboundary，butsincetheannexationoftheNubianprovincestoEgypttherehasbeennosafetyforlifeorpropertyuponthelineoffrontier。thusalargetractofcountryactuallyformingaportionofAbyssiniaisuninhabited。

Uponmyreturntothecamp，IwasinformedbytheSheikWatSaidthatadetachmentoftroopswasstationedatTomatexpresslytoprotecttheEgyptianfrontierfromtheraidsofMekNimmur，whowasinthehabitofcrossingtheAtbaraandpillagingtheArabvillagesduringthedryseason，whentheriverwasfordable。ThisMekNimmurwasasonofthecelebratedMekNimmur，thechiefofShendy，adistrictuponthewestbankoftheNilebetweenBerberandKhartoum。WhentheEgyptianforces，underthecommandofIsmaelPasha，thesonoftheViceroyMehemetAliPasha，arrivedatShendy，atthetimeoftheconquestofNubia，hecalledthegreatSheikMek(fromMelek，signifyingking)Nimmurbeforehim，anddemandedthefollowingsuppliesforhisarmy，astributeforthePasha:——1，000younggirlsasslaves。1，000oxen。andofcamels，goats，sheep，each1，000。alsocamel-loadsofcornandstraweach1，000，withavarietyofotherdemandsexpressedbythesamefigure。ItissaidthatMekNimmurrepliedtothesedemandswithmuchcourtesy，"Yourarithmeticexhibitsacharmingsimplicity，astheonlyfigureappearstobe1，000。"Inashorttimethesuppliesbegantoarrive，stringsofcamels，ladenwithcorn，assembledatShendyintheEgyptiancamp。cattle，goats，sheep，cameinfromallsides。fodderfortheEgyptiancavalry，totheamountof1，000camel-loads，wasbroughttohead-quarters，andpiledinahugewallthatencircledthetentoftheGeneralIsmaelPasha。Inthedeadofnight，whileheslept，thecracklingoffirewasheard，andflamesburstoutuponallsidesofthedryandcombustiblefodder。theArabshadfiredthestrawinalldirections，andaroarofflameinafatalringsurroundedthePasha'stent，whichcaughtthefire。Therewasnoescape!Intheconfusion，theArabsfelluponthetroops，andmassacredaconsiderablenumber。Afterthissuccess，MekNimmursucceededinretiringwithhispeopleandherdstoSofi，ontheAtbara，towhichplacewewerebound。thiswasabouttwelvemilesfromTomat。ThebodyofIsmaelPashawasfoundbeneaththoseofsomeofhiswomen，allofwhomthatwerewithintheinclosurehavingperished。

AfterthiscalamitytheEgyptiansrecoveredShendy，andinrevengetheycollectedanumberoftheinhabitantsofallagesandbothsexes。Thesewerepennedtogetherlikecattleinazareebaorkraal，andweresurroundedwithdhurra-straw，whichwasfiredinasimilarmannertothatwhichdestroyedthePasha。

Thusweretheseunfortunatecreaturesdestroyedenmasse，whiletheremainingportionofthepopulationfledtothenewsettlementoftheirchiefatSofi。

Withinthelastfewyearsprecedingmyarrival，theEgyptianshadattackedandutterlydestroyedtheoldtownofSofi。MekNimmurhadretiredacrosstheAtbara，andhadtakenrefugeinAbyssinia，wherehehadbeenwelcomedbythekingofthatcountryastheenemyoftheTurks，andhadbeenpresentedwithaconsiderableterritoryatthewesternbaseofthehighmountainrange。WhenI

arrivedontheAtbarain1861，theoriginalMekNimnmurwasdead，andhisson，whoalsowascalledMekNimmur，reignedinhisstead。"Nimmur"signifiesinArabic"leopard:"thus"MekNimmur"

isthe"LeopardKing。"

ThismanwasconstantlyatwarwiththeEgyptians，andsuchArabswhowerefriendlytoEgypt。Hisprincipalhead-quarterswereaboutseventymilesfromTomat，atavillagenamedMaiGubba，fromwhichcountryhemadesuccessfulrazziasupontheEgyptianterritory，whichcompelledavigilantlook-outduringthedryseason。Duringtherainstherewasnodanger，astheriverwasimmenselydeep，andimpassablefromthetotalabsenceofboats。

TheuninhabitedcountryexactlyoppositeTomatwassaidtoaboundwithlargegame，suchaselephants，giraffes，&c。astherewerenoenemiestodisturbthem。

Atbreakofday，29thJuly，thegrandsonofAbouSinn，SheikAli，whohadbeenourguide，paidushispartingvisit，andreturnedwithhispeople，whileatthesametimeAtalanWatSaidarrivedwithalargeretinueofhisownArabsandEgyptiansoldierstoescortustoSofi。Twosplendidhygeenswerealreadysaddledforus，oneofwhichwasspeciallyintendedformywife。thiswasthemostthorough-bredlookinganimalIhaveeverseen。bothweremilk-white，buttherewasadelicacyinthelatterthatwasunequalled。Thiswasrathersmall，andalthoughtheribsweresowellcoveredthattheanimalappearedratherfleshy，itwasinthehardiestcondition，andwasshapedinthedepthofbrisketandwidthofloinslikeagreyhound。thelegswereremarkablyfine，andascleanasivory。TheSheikAtalanwascharmedatouradmirationofhismuch-prizedhygeen，andtoproveitsspeedandeasyactionwewerenosoonermountedthanheledthewayatabouttenmilesanhour，downthesteepslopes，acrosstheroughwatercourses，andupthehill-sides，assuringmywifethatshemightsipacupofcoffeeonthebackoftheanimalsherode，withoutspillingadrop:althoughanexaggeration，thisistheusualfigureofspeechbywhichanArabdescribestheeasyactionofafirst-ratehygeen。Itwasabeautifulsighttowatchtheextraordinaryeasewithwhichthehygeenglidedalongoverthenumerousinequalitiesofthegroundwithouttheslightestdiscomforttotherider。thenumerousescortbecamealongandirregularlineofstragglers，untilatlengththeywerelostinthedistance，withtheexceptionofthreeorfour，who，wellmounted，wereproudofkeepingtheirposition。EmergingfromtheunevenvalleyoftheAtbara，wearriveduponthehighandleveltablelandabove。herethespeedincreased，andintheexhilarationofthepaceinthecoolmorningair，withallnatureglowinginthefreshgreenofaNubianspring，weonlyregrettedtheshortnessofthejourneytoSofi，whichwereachedbeforetheheatofthedayhadcommenced。Weweremetbythesheikofthevillage，andbyaGermanwhohadbeenaresidentofSofiforsomeyears。hewasdelightedtoseeEuropeans，especiallythosewhowereconversantwithhisownlanguage，andheverypolitelyinsistedthatweshoulddismountathishouse。Accordinglyourcamelskneltatthedoorofalittlecircularstonebuildingabouttwelvefeetindiameter，witharoofthatchedaccordingtoArabfashion。ThisdwellingwasthemodelofanArabhut，butthewallswereofmasonryinsteadofmudandsticks，andtwosmallwindowsformedaninnovationupontheArabstyle，whichhadmuchastonishedthenatives，whoarecontentedwiththelightaffordedbythedoorway。

Wewereshortlysittingintheonlystonebuildinginthecountry，amongacrowdofArabs，who，accordingtotheirannoyingcustom，hadthrongedtothehutuponourarrival，andnotonlyhadfilledtheroom，butweresittinginamobatthedoorway，whilemassesofmop-likeheadswerepeeringovertheshouldersofthefrontrank，excludingbothlightandair。eventhewindowswereblockedwithhighlyfrizzledheads，whileallweretalkingatthesametime。

Coffeehavingbeenhandedtotheprincipalpeoplewhileourtentswerebeingpitchedoutsidethevillage，weatlengthsilencedthecrowd。ournewacquaintanceexplainedinArabictheobjectofourarrival，andourintentionofpassingtherainyseasonatSofi，andofexploringthevariousriversofAbyssiniaattheearliestopportunity。AtalanWatSaidpromisedeveryassistancewhenthetimeshouldarrive。hedescribedthecountryasaboundingwithlargegameofallkinds，andheagreedtofurnishmewithguidesandhuntersatthecommencementofthehuntingseason。inthemeantimeheorderedthesheikofthevillage，HassanbelKader，topayuseveryattention。

AfterthedepartureofAtalanandhispeople，andtheusualyellingofthewomen，wehadtimetoexamineSofi，andaccompaniedbytheGerman，Florian，westrolledthroughthevillage。Atthispositiontheslopeofthevalleytowardstheriverwasexceedinglygradualuponthewestbank，untilwithinahundredandfiftyyardsoftheAtbara，whenthegroundrapidlyfell，andterminatedinanabruptcliffofwhitesandstone。

ThemiserablelittlevillageofmodernSoficomprisedaboutthirtystrawhuts，butthesituationwasworthyofamoreimportantsettlement。Aplateauofhardsandysoilofabouttwentyacreswasbordereduponeithersidebytwodeepravinesthatformedanaturalprotection，whilebelowthesteepcliff，withintwohundredpacesinfrontofthevillage，flowedtheriverAtbara。formountedmentherewasonlyoneapproach，thatwhichwehadtakenfromthemainland。Therecouldnothavebeenamoreinvitingspotadoptedforaresting-placeduringtherains。Althoughthesoilwasthoroughlydenudedofloam，andnothingremainedbuttheoriginalsubstratumofsandstoneandpebbles，thegrasswasatthisseasonaboutthreeincheshighthroughouttheentirevalleyoftheAtbara，thetreeswereinfullleaf，andthevividgreen，contrastingwiththesnow-whitesandstonerocks，producedtheeffectofanornamentalpark。Mytentswerepitcheduponalevelpieceofground，outsidethevillage，aboutahundredpacesfromtheriver，wherethegrasshadbeensocloselynibbledbythegoatsthatitformedanaturallawn，andwasperfectionforacamp。drainsweredugaroundthetentwalls，andeverythingwasarrangedforapermanency。I

agreedwiththesheikfortheerectionofacomfortabiehutforourselves，akitchenadjoining，andahutfortheservants，astheheavystormsweretoosevereforalifeundercanvas。inthemeantimewesatinourtent，andhadaquietchatwithFlorian，theGerman。

Hewasasallow，sickly-lookingman，whowithalargebonyframehadbeenreducedfromconstanthardworkandfrequentsicknesstolittlebutskinandsinew。hewasamason，whohadleftGermanywiththeAustrianMissiontoKhartoum，butfindingtheworktoolaboriousinsuchaclimate，heandafriend，whowasacarpenter，haddeclaredforindependence，andtheyhadlefttheMission。

Theywerebothenterprisingfellows，andsportsmen。thereforetheyhadpurchasedriflesandammunition，andhadcommencedlifeashunters。atthesametimetheyemployedtheirleisurehoursinearningmoneybytheworkoftheirhandsinvariousways。

Florian，beingastonemason，hadofcoursebuilthishutofstone。hewasafairblacksmithandcarpenter，andwaswellprovidedwithtools。buthisprincipaloccupationwaswhipmaking，fromthehidesofhippopotami。Ascoorbatcheswererequiredthroughoutthecountrytherewasanextensivedemandforhiscamel-whips，whichwerefarsuperiortothoseofnativemanufacture。thesehesoldtotheArabsatabouttwoshillingseach。Hehadlatelymetwithaseriousaccidentbytheburstingofoneofthewretchedgunsthatformedhissportingbattery。

thishadblownawayhisthumbfromthewristjoint，andhadsoshatteredhishandthatitwouldmostlikelyhavesufferedamputationhadheenjoyedtheadvantageofEuropeansurgicalassistance。butwiththesimpleaidofhisyoungblacklad，Richarn，whocutoffthedanglingthumbandfleshwithhisknife，hehadpreservedhishand，minusoneportion。

FlorianhadhadconsiderableexperienceinsomepartsofthecountrythatIwasabouttovisit，andhegavememuchvaluableinformationthatwasofgreatassistanceindirectingmyfirstoperations。ThecloseoftherainyseasonwouldbeaboutthemiddleofSeptember，buttravellingwouldbeimpossibleuntilNovember，astheflywouldnotquitthecountryuntilthegrassshouldbecomedry。thereforetheArabswouldnotreturnwiththeircamelsuntilthatperiod。

Itappearedthatthispeculiarfly，whichtorturedalldomesticanimals，invadedthecountryshortlyafterthecommencementoftherains，whenthegrasswasabouttwofeethigh。afewhadalreadybeenseen，butSofiwasafavouredspotthatwasgenerallyexemptfromthisplague，whichclungmoreparticularlytotheflatandrichtablelands，wherethequalityofgrasswastotallydifferenttothatproduceduponthepebblyanddenudedsoilofthesandstoneslopesofthevalley。Thegrassoftheslopeswasexceedinglyfine，andwouldnotexceedaheightofabouttwofeet，whilethatofthetablelandswouldexceedninefeet，andbecomeimpassable，untilsufficientlydrytobeclearedbyfire。InNovember，theentirecountrywouldbecomeavastprairieofdriedstraw，theburningofwhichwouldthenrendertravellingandhuntingpossible。

FlorianhadhuntedforsomedistancealongtheSettiteriverwithhiscompanions，andhadkilledfifty-threehippopotamiduringthelastseason。IthereforeagreedthatheshouldaccompanymeuntilIshouldhavesufficientlyexploredthatriver，afterwhichI

proposedtoexaminetheriversSalaamandAngrab，ofwhichgreattributariesoftheAtbaranothingdefinitewasknown，exceptthattheyjoinedthatriveraboutfiftymilessouthofSofi。

Floriandescribedthecountryasveryhealthyduringthedryseason，butextremelydangerousduringtherains，especiallyinthemonthofOctober，when，onthecessationofrain，thesunevaporatedthemoisturefromthesoddengroundandrankvegetation。IaccordinglydeterminedtoarrangeourwinterquartersascomfortablyaspossibleatSofiforthreemonths，duringwhichholidayIshouldhaveampletimeforgaininginformationandcompletingmyarrangementsforthefuture。

Violentstormswerenowofdailyoccurrence。theyhadfirstcommencedatabout2P。M。，buttheyhadgraduallyalteredthehouroftheirarrivaltobetween3and4。Thisnight，29thJuly，wewerevisitedatabout11P。M。withthemosttremendoustempestthatwehadyetexperienced，whichlasteduntilthemorning。

Fortunatelythetentwaswellsecuredwithfourpowerfulstorm-ropesfastenedfromthetopofthepole，andpinnedabouttwenty-fiveyardsfromthebasetoironbarsdrivendeepintothehardground。butthenightwaspassedinthediscomfortsofadelugethat，drivenbythehurricane，sweptthroughthetent，whichthreatenedeveryminutetodesertusinshreds。Onthefollowingmorningthestormhadpassedaway，andthesmalltenthaddonelikewise，havingbeenblowndownandcarriedmanyyardsfromthespotwhereithadbeenpitched。Mahomet，whowastheoccupant，hadfoundhimselfsuddenlyenvelopedinwetcanvas，fromwhichhehademergedlikeafroginthestorm。Therewasnotimetobelostincompletingmypermanentcamp。Ithereforesentforthesheikofthevillage，andproceededtopurchaseahouse。

IaccompaniedhimthroughthenarrowlanesofSofi，andwasquicklyshownaremarkablyneathouse，whichIsucceededinpurchasingfromtheownerforthesumoftenpiastres(twoshillings)。Thisdidnotseemanextravagantoutlayforaneatdwellingwithasoundroof。neitherwerethereanylegalexpensesintheformofconveyance，asinthathappyandpracticallandthesimpleformofconveyanceisthetransportationofthehouse(theroof)upontheshouldersofaboutthirtymen，andthusitisconveyedtoanyspotthatthepurchasermayconsiderdesirable。

Accordingly，ourmansionwasatonceseizedbyacrowdofArabs，andcarriedoffintriumph，whilethesticksthatformedthewallwerequicklyarrangeduponthesiteIhadchosenforourcamp。IntheshortspaceofaboutthreehoursIfoundmyselftheproprietorofaneligiblefreeholdresidence，situateduponaneminenceinpark-likegrounds，commandingextensiveandromanticviewsofthebeautifully-woodedvalleyoftheAtbara，withinaminute'swalkoftheneighbouringvillageofSofi，perfectimmunityfromallpoor-rates，tithes，taxes，andotherpublicburthens，notmorethan2，000milesfromachurch，withtheadvantageofapost-townattheeasydistanceofseventyleagues。

ThemanorcomprisedtherightofshootingthroughouttheparishesofAhyssiniaandSoudan，plentifullystockedwithelephants，lions，rhinoceroses，giraffes，buffaloes，hippopotami，leopards，andagreatvarietyofantelopes。whiletherightoffishingextendedthroughouttheAtbaraandneighbouringrivers，thatwerewellstockedwithfishrangingfromfivetoahundredandfiftypounds。alsowithturtlesandcrocodiles。

Themansioncomprisedentrance-hall，dining-room，drawing-roomn，lady'sboudoir，library，breakfast-room，bed-roomanddressing-room(withthegreatadvantageoftheircombinationinonecircularroomfourteenfeetindiameter)。Thearchitecturewasofanancientstyle，fromtheoriginaldesignofapill-boxsurmountedbyacandleextinguisher。

ThusmightmyestatehavebeendescribedbyanEnglishestateagentandauctioneer，withabetterfoundationoffactthanmanynewspaperadvertisements。

Ipurchasedtwoadditionalhuts，oneofwhichwaserectedattheback(ifacirclehasaback)ofourmansion，asthekitchen，whiletheotheratagreaterdistanceformedthe"servants'

hall。"Weallworkedhardforseveraldaysinbeautifyingourhouseandgrounds。Inthelovelyshortgrassthatresembledgreenvelvet，wecutwalkstotheedgeofadeclivity，andsurroundedthehousewithapathofsnow-whitesand，resemblingcoarselypoundedsugar。thisweobtainedfromsomedecomposedsandstonerockwhichcrumbledupontheslightestpressure。Wecollectedcuriously-shapedblocksofrock，andmassesoffossilwoodthatwereimbeddedinthesandstone。theseweformedintobordersforourwalks，andoppositetoourfrontdoor(therewasnobackdoor)wearrangedahalf-circleor"carriage-drive，"ofwhitesand，totheextremeedgeofthedeclivity，whichweborderedwithlargerocks。oneofwhichIbelievemayremaintothisday，asIcarriedittothespottoformaseat，andmyvanitywastouchedbythefactthatitrequiredtwoArabstoraiseitfromtheground。Imadearustictableofsplitbamboos，andtwogardenseatsoppositetheentranceofthehouse，andwecollectedanumberofwildplantsandbulbswhichweplantedinlittlebeds。wealsosowedtheseedsofdifferentgourdsthatweretoclimbuponourroof。

InthecourseofaweekwehadformedasprettyacampasRobinsonCrusoehimselfcouldhavecoveted。buthe，poorunfortunate，hadonlyhismanFridaytoassisthim，whileinourarrangementsthereweremanycharmsandindescribablelittlecomfortsthatcouldonlybeeffectedbyalady'shand。Notonlywereourwalkscoveredwithsnow-whitesandandthebordersornamentedwithbeautifulagatesthatwehadcollectedintheneighbourhood，buttheinteriorofourhousewastheperfectionofneatness:thefloorwascoveredwithwhitesandbeatenfirmlytogethertothedepthofaboutsixinches。thesurfacewassweptandreplacedwithfreshmaterialdaily。thetravellingbedsteads，withtheirbrightgreenmosquitocurtains，stoodbyeitherside，affordingaclearspaceinthecentreofthecircle，whileexactlyoppositethedoorstoodthegun-rack，withasgoodlyanarrayofweaponsastheheartofasportsmancoulddesire:——

MylittleFletcherdoublerifle，No。24。

Onedoublerifle，No。10，byTatham。

Twodoublerifles，No。10，byReilly。

Onedoublerifle，No。10，byBeattie(oneofmyoldCeylontools)。

Onedoublegun，No。10，byBeattie。

Onedoublegun，No。10，byPurdey，belongingtoMr。Oswell，ofSouthAfricancelebrity。

Onesinglerifle，No。8，byManton。

Onesinglerifle，No。14，byBeattie。

Onesingleriflethatcarriedahalf-pouudexplosiveshell，byHollandofBondStreet。thiswasnicknamedbytheArabs"JennaelMootfah"(childofacannon)，andforthesakeofbrevityI

calleditthe"Baby。"

Myrevolverandabraceofdouble-barrelledpistolshunguponthewall，which，althoughtheexteriorofthehousewasstraw，wehadlinedwiththebrightcolouredcanvasofthetent。SuspendedbyloopswerelittleornamentalbasketsworkedbytheArabs，thatcontainedahostofusefularticles，suchasneedles，thread，&c。

&c。，andtheremainingsurfacewashungwithhuntingknives，fishinglines，andavarietyofinstrumentsbelongingtothechase。Atravellingtable，withmapsandafewbooks，stoodagainstthewall，andonemorearticlecompletedourfurniture，——anexceedinglyneattoilettable，thebaseofwhichwasaflat-toppedportmanteau，concealedbyacunningdeviceofchintzandmuslin。this，coveredwiththeusualarrangementofbrushes，mirror，scent-bottles，&c。threwanairofcivilizationovertheestablishment，whichwasincreasedbythepresenceofanimmensesponging-bath，that，beingflatandcircular，couldbefittedunderneathabed。Inthedraughtofairnextthedoorstoodourfilterinawoodenframe，beneathwhichwasaporousjarthatreceivedandcooledtheclearwaterasitfell。

【推荐阅读】幽幽深宫，醒来一梦似千年，重生于下堂妃身躯中的她，将如何手刃仇人? 点击阅读