THEworkentitled"TheAlbertN'yanzaGreatBasinoftheNile，"

publishedin1866，hasgivenanaccountoftheequatoriallakesystemfromwhichtheEgyptianriverderivesitssource。IthasbeendeterminedbythejointexplorationsofSpeke，Grant，andmyself，thattherainfalloftheequatorialdistrictssuppliestwovastlakes，theVictoriaandtheAlbert，ofsufficientvolumetosupporttheNilethroughoutitsentirecourseofthirtydegreesoflatitude。Thustheparentstream，fedbynever-failingreservoirs，suppliedbythetenmonths'rainfalloftheequator，rollssteadilyonitswaythrougharidsandsandburningdesertsuntilitreachestheDeltaofLowerEgypt。

ItwouldatfirstsightappearthatthediscoveryofthelakesourcesoftheNilehadcompletelysolvedthemysteryofages，andthatthefertilityofEgyptdependedupontherainfalloftheequatorconcentratedinthelakesVictoriaandAlbert。buttheexplorationoftheNiletributariesofAbyssiniadividestheNilesystemintotwoproportions，andunravelstheentiremysteryoftheriver，byassigningtoeachitsdueshareinministeringtotheprosperityofEgypt。

ThelakesourcesofCentralAfricasupportthelifeofEgypt，bysupplyingastream，throughoutallseasons，thathassufficientvolumetosupporttheexhaustionofevaporationandabsorption。

butthisstream，ifunaided，couldneveroverflowitsbanks，andEgypt，thusdeprivedoftheannualinundation，wouldsimplyexist，andcultivationwouldbeconfinedtotheclosevicinityoftheriver。

Theinundation，whichbyitsannualdepositofmudhasactuallycreatedtheDeltaofLowerEgypt，upontheoverflowofwhichthefertilityofEgyptdepends，hasanoriginentirelyseparatefromthelake-sourcesofCentralAfrica，andthesupplyofwaterisderivedexclusivelyfromAbyssinia。

ThetwograndaffluentsofAbyssiniaare，theBlueNileandtheAtbara，whichjointhemainstreamrespectivelyinN。lat。15

degrees30minutesand17degrees37minutes。Theserivers，althoughstreamsofextremegrandeurduringtheperiodoftheAbyssinianrains，fromthemiddleofJuneuntilSeptember，arereducedduringthedrymonthstoutterinsignificance。theBlueNilebecomingsoshallowastobeunnavigable，andtheAtbaraperfectlydry。AtthattimethewatersupplyofAbyssiniahavingceased，EgyptdependssolelyupontheequatoriallakesandtheaffluentsoftheWhiteNile，untiltherainyseasonshallagainhavefloodedthetwogreatAbyssinianarteries。Thatfloodoccurssuddenlyaboutthe20thofJune，andthegrandrushofwaterpouringdowntheBlueNileandtheAtbaraintotheparentchannel，inundatesLowerEgypt，andisthecauseofitsextremefertility。

NotonlyistheinundationtheeffectoftheAbyssinianrains，butthedepositofmudthathasformedtheDelta，andwhichisannuallyprecipitatedbytherisingwaters，isalsoduetotheAbyssinianstreams，moreespeciallytotheriverAtbara，which，knownastheBahrelAswat(BlackRiver)，carriesalargerproportionofsoilthananyothertributaryoftheNile。

therefore，totheAtbara，aboveallotherrivers，mustthewealthandfertilityofEgyptbeattributed。

Itmaythusbestated:TheequatoriallakesFEEDEgypt。buttheAbyssinianriversCAUSETHEINUNDATION。

ThisbeingaconcisesummaryoftheNilesystem，Ishalldescribetwelvemonths'exploration，duringwhichIexaminedeveryindividualriverthatistributarytotheNilefromAbyssinia，includingtheAtbara，Settite，Royan，Salaam，Angrab，Rahad，Dinder，andtheBlueNile。TheinterestattachedtotheseportionsofAfricadiffersentirelyfromthatoftheWhiteNileregions，asthewholeofUpperEgyptandAbyssiniaiscapableofdevelopment，andisinhabitedbyraceseitherMohammedanorChristian。whileCentralAfricaispeopledbyahopelessraceofsavages，forwhomthereisnoprospectofcivilization。

TheexplorationoftheNiletributariesofAbyssiniaoccupiedthefirsttwelvemonthsofmyjourneytowardstheNilesources。

Duringthistime，IhadtheopportunityoflearningArabicandofstudyingthecharacterofthepeople。bothnecessaryacquirements，whichledtomyultimatesuccessinreachingthe"AlbertN'yanza。"Asthereadersoftheworkofthattitleareaware，Iwasaccompaniedthroughouttheentirejourneybymywife，who，withextraordinaryhardihoodanddevotion，sharedeverydifficultywithwhichAfricantravelisbeset。

ABOVETHECATARACT。

WITHOUTtroublingthepublicwithadescriptionofthatportionoftheNiletothenorthofthefirstcataract，orwithadetailedaccountoftheEgyptianruins，thathavebeenvisitedbyathousandtourists，Iwillcommencebyafewextractsfrommyjournal，writtenatthecloseoftheboatvoyagefromCairo

"May8，1861——Noair。Thethermometer104degreesFahr……astiflingheat。Becalmed，wehavebeenlyingtheentiredaybelowtheruinsofPhilae。ThesearethemostimposingmonumentsoftheNile，owingtotheirpeculiarsituationuponarockyislandthatcommandsthepassageoftheriverabovethecataract。Thebanksofthestreamareherehemmedinbyrangesofhillsfrom100to250feethigh。theseareentirelydestituteofsoil，beingcomposedofenormousmassesofredgranite，piledblockuponblock，therudemasonryofNaturethathaswalledintheriver。

Thehollowsbetweenthehillsarechokedwithayellowsand，which，driftedbythewind，has，inmanyinstances，completelyfilledthenarrowvalleys。UponeithersideoftheNilearevestigesofancientforts。ThelandappearsasthoughitborethecurseofHeaven。misery，barrenness，andtheheatofafurnaceareitsfeatures。Theglowingrocks，devoidofatraceofvegetation，reflectthesunwithanintensitythatmustbefelttobeunderstood。Themiserablepeoplewhodwellinvillagesupontheriver'sbankssnatcheverysandbankfromtheretiringstream，andimmediatelyplanttheirscantygardenwithmelons，gourds，lentils，&c。thisbeingtheironlyresourceforcultivation。Notaninchofavailablesoilislost。butdaybyday，astheriverdecreases，freshrowsofvegetablesaresownuponthenewly-acquiredland。AtAssouan，thesandbanksarepurelysandbroughtdownbythecataracts，thereforesoilmustbeaddedtoenablethepeopletocultivate。Theydigearthfromtheruinsoftheancienttown。thistheyboatacrosstheriverandspreaduponthesandbank，bywhichexcessivelabourtheysecuresufficientmouldtosupporttheircrops。

InthevicinityofPhilaetheverybarrennessofthescenerypossessesacharm。Theiron-likesterilityofthegraniterocks，nakedexceptinspotswherethewindhassheetedthemwithsand。

thegrovesofpalmsspringingunexpectedlyintoviewinthisdesertwilderness，asasuddenbendoftheriverdiscoversavillage。theeverblueandnevercloudedskyabove，and，theonlyblessingofthisblightedland，theNile，silentlyflowingbetweenitssternwallsofrockstowardsthedistantlandofLowerEgypt，formatotalthatproducesascenetobemetwithnowherebutupontheNile。Inthismiserablespottheunfortunateinhabitantsaretaxedequallywiththoseofthericherdistricts——aboutfivepenceannuallyforeachdatepalm。

"May9——Agoodbreeze，buttremendousheat。Althoughthefloorandthecurtainsofthecabinarecontinuallywetted，andtheVenetianblindsareclosed，thethermometer，at4P。M。stoodat105degreesintheshade。andupondeck，137degreesinthesun。

Thisdaywepassedtheruinsofseveralsmalltemples。Thecountryisgenerallyrocky，withintervalsoftenortwelvemilesofdesertplains。

"May10——Finebreeze，theboatsailingwell。Passedseveralsmalltemples。Thehennagrowsinconsiderablequantitiesontheleftbankoftheriver。Theleafresemblesthatofthemyrtle。

theblossomhasapowerfulfragrance。itgrowslikeafeather，abouteighteenincheslong，formingaclusterofsmallyellowflowers。Thedaypleasantlycool。thermometer，95degrees。

"May11——At5A。M。wearrivedatKorosko。lat。22degrees50

minutesN。thehalting-placeforallvesselsfromLowerEgyptwithmerchandisefortheSoudan。"

AtthiswretchedspottheNileisdrearybeyonddescription，asavastdesert，unenlivenedbycultivation，formsitsborders，throughwhichthemelancholyriverrollstowardsLowerEgyptinthecloudlessglareofatropicalsun。Fromwhencecamethisextraordinarystreamthatcouldflowthroughtheseburningsandydeserts，unaidedbytributarychannels?Thatwasthemysteriousquestionaswesteppedupontheshorenow，tocommenceourlandjourneyinsearchofthedistantsources。Weclimbedthesteepsandybank，andsatdownbeneathasolitarysycamore。

Wehadbeentwenty-sixdayssailingfromCairotothispoint。Theboatreturned，andleftusontheeastbankoftheNile，withthegreatNubiandesertbeforeus。

Koroskoisnotrichinsupplies。AfewmiserableArabhuts，withtheusualfringeofdustydatepalms，composethevillage。themuddyriveristhefrontieronthewest，theburningdesertontheeast。Thushemmedin，Koroskoisanarrowstripofafewyards'widthonthemarginoftheNile，withonlyoneredeemingfeatureinitswretchedness——thegreenshadeoftheoldsycamorebeneathwhichwesat。

IhadafirmanfromtheViceroy，acook，andadragoman。Thusmyimpedimentawerenotnumerous。ThefirmanwasanordertoallEgyptianofficialsforassistance。thecookwasdirtyandincapable。andtheinterpreterwasnearlyignorantofEnglish，althoughaprofessedpolyglot。Withthissmallbeginning，Africawasbeforeme，andthusIcommencedthesearchfortheNilesources。Absurdasthismayappear，itwasacorrectcommencement。IgnorantofArabic，Icouldnothavecommandedalargeparty，whowouldhavebeenatthemercyoftheinterpreterordragoman。thus，thefirstqualificationnecessarytosuccesswasaknowledgeofthelanguage。

Afteradelayofsomedays，Iobtainedsixteencamelsfromthesheik。Ihadtakentheprecautiontoprovidewater-barrels，inadditiontotheusualgoat-skins。and，withatrustworthyguide，wequittedKoroskoonthe16thMay，1861，andlaunchedintothedesert。

TheroutefromKoroskoacrosstheNubiandesertcutsoffthechordofanarcmadebythegreatwesterlybendoftheNile。Thischordisabout230milesinlength。Throughoutthisbarrendesertthereisnowater，exceptatthehalf-waystation，Moorahd(frommoorra，bitter)。this，althoughsaltandbitter，isrelishedbycamels。Duringthehotseasoninwhichweunfortunatelytravelled，theheatwasintense，thethermometerrangingfrom

degreesto114degreesFahr。intheshade。Theparchingblastofthesimoomwasofsuchexhaustingpower，thatthewaterrapidlyevaporatedfromtheclosedwater-skins。Itwas，therefore，necessarytosavethesupplybyaforcedmarchofsevendays，inwhichperiodweweretoaccomplishthedistance，andtoreachAbouHammed，onthesouthernbendofthewelcomeNile。

Duringthecoolmonths，fromNovemberuntilFebruary，thedesertjourneyisnotdisagreeable。butthevastareaofglowingsandexposedtothescorchingsunofsummer，inadditiontothewitheringbreathofthesimoom，renderstheforcedmarchof

milesinsevendays，attwoandahalfmilesperhour，themostfatiguingjourneythatcanbeendured。

FarewelltotheNile!Weturnedourbacksuponthelife-givingriver，andourcaravancommencedthesilentdesertmarch。

AfewhoursfromKoroskothemiseryofthescenesurpasseddescription。Glowinglikeafurnace，thevastextentofyellowsandstretchedtothehorizon。Rowsofbrokenhills，allofvolcanicorigin，broketheflatplain。Conicaltumuliofvolcanicslaghereandthererosetotheheightofseveralhundredfeet，andinthefardistanceresembledthePyramidsofLowerEgypt——doubtlesstheywerethemodelsforthatancientandeverlastingarchitecture。hillsofblackbasaltjuttedoutfromthebarrenbaseofsand，andthemoltenairquiveredontheoverheatedsurfaceofthefearfuldesert。114degreesFahr。intheshadeunderthewater-skins。137degreesinthesun。

Noiselesslythespongytreadofthecamelscreptalongthesand——theonlysoundwastherattleofsomelooselysecuredbaggageoftheirpacks。TheArabcamel-driversfollowedsilentlyatintervals，andhourbyhourwestruckdeeperintothesolitudeoftheNubiandesert。

Weenteredadeadlevelplainoforange-colouredsand，surroundedbypyramidicalhills:thesurfacewasstrewnwithobjectsresemblingcannonshotandgrapeofallsizesfroma32-pounderdownwards——thespotlookedliketheoldbattle-fieldofsomeinfernalregion。rocksglowingwithheat——notavestigeofvegetation——barren，witheringdesolation——Theslowrockingstepofthecamelswasmostirksome，anddespitetheheat，I

dismountedtoexaminetheSatanicbombsandcannonshot。Manyofthemwereasperfectlyroundasthoughcastinamould，otherswereegg-shaped，andallwerehollow。WithsomedifficultyI

brokethem，andfoundthemtocontainabrightredsand:theywere，infact，volcanicbombsthathadbeenformedbytheejectionofmoltenlavatoagreatheightfromactivevolcanoes。

thesehadbecomeglobularinfalling，and，havingcooledbeforetheyreachedtheearth，theyretainedtheirformsashardsphericalbodies，preciselyresemblingcannonshot。Theexteriorwasbrown，andappearedtoberichiniron。Thesmallerspecimenswerethemoreperfectspheres，astheycooledquickly，butmanyoftheheaviermasseshadevidentlyreachedtheearthwhenonlyhalfsolidified，andhadcollapseduponfalling。Thesandyplainwascoveredwithsuchvestigesofvolcanicaction，andtheinfernalbombslayasimperishablerelicsofahail-stormsuchasmayhavedestroyedSodomandGomorrah。

Passingthroughthiswretchedsolitudeweentereduponasceneofsurpassingdesolation。Farastheeyecouldreachwerewaveslikeastormysea，grey，cold-lookingwavesintheburningheat。butnodropofwater:itappearedasthoughasuddencursehadturnedaragingseatostone。Thesimoomblewoverthishorriblewilderness，anddriftedthehotsandintothecrevicesoftherocks，andthecamelsdroopedtheirheadsbeforethesuffocatingwind。butstillthecaravannoiselesslycreptalongovertherockyundulations，untilthestormyseawaspassed:oncemorewewereuponaboundlessplainofsandandpebbles。

Hereeverynowandthenwediscoveredwitheredmelons(Cucumiscolocynthis)。theleaveshadlongsincedisappeared，andtheshrivelledstalkswerebrittleasglass。Theyprovedthateventhedeserthadaseasonoflife，howevershort。butthedesertfruitswerebitter。Sointenselybitterwasthedrywhiteinteriorofthesemelons，thatitexactlyresembledquinineintaste。whenrubbedbetweenthefingers，itbecameafinewhitepowder。TheArabsusethismedicinally。asmallpieceplacedinacupofmilk，andallowedtostandforafewhours，rendersthedraughtastrongaperient。Thesun——thatrelentlesspersecutorofthedeserttraveller——sankbehindthewesternhills，andthelongwishedfornightarrived。cool，deliciousnight!thethermometer78degreesFahr。adifferenceof36degreesbetweentheshadeofday。

Theguidecommandedthecaravan，——hewasthedesertpilot，andnoonedaredquestionhisdirections。heorderedahaltforTWO

HOURS'rest。Thiswastheusualstageandhalting-placebythesideofaperpendicularrock，thebaseofwhichwasstrewnthickwithcamel'sdung。thisexcellentfuelsoonproducedablazingfire，thecoffeebegantoboil，andfowlswereroastingforahastydinner。Ashortsnatchofsleepuponthesand，andthevoiceoftheguideagaindisturbedus。Thecamelshadnotbeenunloaded，buthadlaindowntorestwiththeirpacks，andhadthuseatentheirfeedofdhurra(Sorghumvulgare)fromamat。Inafewminuteswestarted，oncemorethesilentandmonotonousdesertmarch。

InthecoolnightIpreferredwalkingtotheuneasymotionofthecamel。theairwasmostinvigoratingaftertheintenseheatofthedayandtheprostrationcausedbythesimoom。Thedeserthadacharmbynight，asthehorizonofitsnakednesswaslimited。

therocksassumedfantasticshapesinthebrightmoonlight，andtheprofoundstillnessproducedaneffectofthesupernaturalinthatwildandmysterioussolitude。theArabbeliefinthegeniiandafreet，andallthedemonenemiesofman，wasanaturalconsequenceofawanderinglifeinthisdesertwilderness，wherenatureishostiletoalllivingbeings。

Inforty-sixhoursandforty-fiveminutes'actualmarchingfromKoroskowereachedMoorahd，"thebitterwell。"

Thisisamournfulspot，wellknowntothetiredandthirstycamel，thehopeofreachingwhichhasurgedhimfaintingonhiswearywaytodrinkonedraughtbeforehedies:thisisthecamel'sgrave。SituatedhalfwaybetweenKoroskoandAbouHammed，thewellofMoorahdisinanextinctcrater，surroundeduponallsidesbutonebyprecipitouscliffsabout300feethigh。Thebottomisadeadflat，andformsavalleyofsandabout250yardswide。Inthisbosomofacrater，saltandbitterwaterisfoundatadepthofonlysixfeetfromthesurface。Tothisourtiredcamelsfranticallyrusheduponbeingunloaded。

Thevalleywasa"valleyofdrybones。"Innumerableskeletonsofcamelslayinalldirections。theshipsofthedesertthusstrandedontheirvoyage。Witheredheapsofparchedskinandbonelayhereandthere，inthedistinctformsinwhichthecamelshadgaspedtheirlast。thedrydesertairhadconvertedthehideintoacoffin。Therewerenoflieshere，thustherewerenowormstodevourthecarcases。buttheusualsextonswerethecrows，althoughsometimestoofewtoperformtheiroffice。Thesewereperchedupontheoverhangingcliffs。butnosoonerhadouroverworkedcamelstakentheirlongdraughtandlaindownexhaustedonthesand，thanbycommonconsenttheydescendedfromtheirhighplaces，andwalkedroundandroundeachtiredbeast。

Asmanywretchedanimalssimplycrawltothisspottodie，thecrows，fromlongexperienceandconstantpractice，canformaprettycorrectdiagnosisuponthecaseofasickcamel。theyhadevidentlypaidaprofessionalvisittomycaravan，andwereespeciallyattentiveinstudyingthecaseofoneparticularcamelthatwasinaveryweaklyconditionandhadstretcheditselffulllengthuponthesand。norwouldtheyleaveituntilitwasdrivenforward。

TheheatofMoorahdwasterrific。therewasnoshadeofanykind，andthenarrowvalleysurroundedbyglowingrocksformedanaturaloven。Theintensedrynessoftheoverheatedatmospherewassuch，thatmanyofourwater-skinsthatappearedfullwerenearlyempty。theprecioussupplyhadevaporatedthroughtheporousleather，andtheskinsweresimplydistendedbytheexpandedairwithin。FortunatelyIhadtakenabout108gallonsfromKorosko，andIpossessedagrandreserveinmytwobarrelswhichcouldnotwaste。thesewereinvaluableasaresourcewhenthesupplyintheskinsshouldbeexhausted。MyArabcamel-menweresupposedtobeprovidedwiththeirownprivatesupply。but，astheyhadcalculateduponstealingfrommystock，inwhichtheyweredisappointed，theywereonexceedinglyshortallowance，andweresufferingmuchfromthirst。Duringourforcedmarchofthreedaysandahalfithadbeenimpossibletoperformtheusualtoilette，therefore，aswaterwaslife，washinghadbeenoutofthequestion。Moorahdhadbeenlookedforwardtoasthespotofsixhours'rest，wherewecouldindulgeintheluxuryofabathonalimitedscaleaftertheheatandfatigueofthejourney。

Accordingly，abouttwoquartsofwaterweremeasuredintoalargeTurkishcopperbasin。thetent，althoughtheheatwasunendurable，wastheonlydressing-room，andthetwoquartsofwater，withadueproportionofsoap，havingwashedtwopeople，wasabouttobethrownaway，whentheArabguide，whohadbeenwaitinghisopportunity，snatchedthebasinfromtheservant，andintheagonyofthirstdranknearlythewholeofitscontents，handingtheresiduetoabrotherArab，withtheheartyejaculation，"ElhambdelIllah!"(ThankGod!)

Mywifewasseriouslyillfromthefatigueandintenseheat，buttherecanbenohaltinthedesert。deadoralive，withthecaravanyoumusttravel，asthepartydependsuponthesupplyofwater。Afewextractsverbatimfrommyjournalwilldescribethejourney

"May2O——Startedat12。30P。M。andhaltedat6。30。Offagainat7。30P。M。till2。45A。M。AboutfourmilesfromMoorahd，greygranitetakestheplaceofthevolcanicslagandschistthatformedtherockstothatpoint。Thedesertisnowavastplain，boundedbyarangeofruggedhillsonthesouth。OnthenorthsideofMoorahd，atadistanceofaboveeightmiles，slateismetwith。thiscontinuesforaboutthreemilesoftheroute，butitisofimpurequality，withtheexceptionofonevein，ofabeautifulbluecolour。Afewmiserablestuntedthornymimosasareheretobeseenscatteredirregularly，asthoughlostinthishorribledesert。"

Manyyearsago，whentheEgyptiantroopsfirstconqueredNubia，aregimentwasdestroyedbythirstincrossingthisdesert。Themen，beinguponalimitedallowanceofwater，sufferedfromextremethirst，anddeceivedbytheappearanceofamiragethatexactlyresembledabeautifullake，theyinsistedonbeingtakentoitsbanksbytheArabguide。Itwasinvainthattheguideassuredthemthatthelakewasunreal，andherefusedtolosetheprecioustimebywanderingfromhiscourse。Wordsledtoblows，andhewaskilledbythesoldiers，whoselivesdependeduponhisguidance。Thewholeregimentturnedfromthetrackandrushedtowardsthewelcomewaters。Thirstyandfaint，overtheburningsandstheyhurried。heavierandheaviertheirfootstepsbecame——hotterandhottertheirbreath，asdeepertheypushedintothedesert——fartherandfartherfromthelosttrackwherethepilotlayinhisblood。andstillthemockingspiritsofthedesert，theafreetsofthemirage，ledthemon，andthelakeglisteninginthesunshinetemptedthemtobatheinitscoolwaters，closetotheireyes，butneverattheirlips。Atlengththedelusionvanished——thefatallakehadturnedtoburningsand!

Ragingthirstandhorribledespair!thepathlessdesertandthemurderedguide!lost!lost!alllost!Notamaneverleftthedesert，buttheyweresubsequentlydiscovered，parchedandwitheredcorpses，bytheArabssentuponthesearch。

"May21——Startedat5。45A。M。till8。45。again，at1。45P。M。

till7P。M。again，at9。30P。M。till4A。M。Sawtwogazelles，thefirstlivingcreatures，exceptthecrowsatMoorahd，thatwehaveseensinceweleftKorosko。theremustbeasupplyofwaterinthemountainsknownonlytotheseanimals。Thermometer，111

degreesFahr。intheshade。atnight，78degrees。ThewaterintheleatherbottlethatIrepairedisdeliciouslycool。N。B——Insewingleatherbottlesorskinsforholdingwater，nothreadshouldbeused，butaleathernthong，whichshouldbedry。itwillthenswellwhenwetted，andtheseamwillbewatertight。

"May22——Startedat5。30A。M。till9。30。again，at2。15P。M。

till7。15P。M。Restedtodine，andstartedagainat8。30P。M。

till4。25A。M……reachingAbouHammed，thankheaven!

"Yesterdayeveningwepassedthroughasecondchainofruggedhillsofgreygranite，about600feethigh，anddescendedthroughapasstoanextensiveplain，inwhichroseabruptly，likehugepyramids，fourgranitehills，atgreatdistancesapart。Soexactlydotheyresembleartificialpyramidsatadistance，thatitisdifficulttobelievetheyarenaturalobjects。IfeelpersuadedthattheancientEgyptianstooktheirdesignsformonumentsandbuildingsfromthehillsthemselves，andraisedintheplainsofLowerEgyptartificialpyramidsinimitationofthegranitehillsofthisform。Theirtempleswereinformlikemanyofthegraniteranges，andwerethoroughlyencasedwithstone。

TheextraordinarymassivenessoftheseworkssuggeststhatNatureassistedthedesign。thestonecolumnsareimitationsofthedatepalms，andthebuildingsarecopiesoftherockyhills——thetwocommonfeaturesofEgyptianscenery。

"ThroughouttheroutefromKorosko，theskeletonsofcamelsnumberabouteightpermile，withtheexceptionofthelastmarchoneithersideofthewatering-placeMoorahd，onwhichtherearedoublethatnumber，astheanimalshavebecomeexhaustedastheyapproachthewell。Inthesteeppassthroughthehills，wheretheheatisintense，andthesanddeep，themortalityisdreadful。insomeplacesIcountedsixandeightinaheap。andthisdifficultportionoftherouteisamassofbones，aseveryweakanimalgivesinatthetryingplace。

"SodreadfuladesertisthisbetweenKoroskoandAbouHammed，thatSaidPashaorderedtheroutetobeclosed。butitwasre-openedupontheapplicationofforeignconsuls，asthemostdirectroadtotheSoudan。OurBishareenArabsarefirst-ratewalkers，astheyhaveperformedtheentirejourneyonfoot。Theirwaterandprovisionswereallexhaustedyesterday，butfortunatelyIhadguardedthekeyofmytwowater-casks。thusI

hadasupplywheneverywater-skinwasempty，andonthelastdayIdividedmysacredstockamongstthemen，andthestillmorethirstycamels。Inthehotmonths，acamelcannotmarchlongerthanthreedayswithoutdrinking，unlessatthecostofgreatsuffering。

"Havingarrivedhere(AbouHammed)at4。25thismorning，23dMay，Ihadtheluxuryofabath。TheverysightoftheNilewasdelightful，aftertheparcheddesolationofthelastsevendays。

Thesmallvillageisutterlydestituteofeverything，andthesteriledesertextendstotheverymarginoftheNile。Thejourneyhavingoccupiedninety-twohoursofactualmarchingacrossthedesert，gives230milesasthedistancefromKorosko，attheloaded-camelrateoftwoandahalfmilesperhour。Theaveragedurationofdailymarchhasbeenupwardsofthirteenhours，includingaday'shaltatMoorahd。Mycamelshavearrivedintolerablecondition，astheirloadsdidnotexceed400lbs。

each。theusualloadis500lbs。

"May24——Restedbothmenandbeasts。Acaravanofaboutthirtycamelsarrived，havinglostthreeduringtheroute。

"May25——Startedat5A。M。TherouteisalongthemarginoftheNile，towhichthedesertextends。Afringeofstuntedbushes，andgrovesofthecoarseandinelegantdomepalm，markthebanksoftheriverbyathicketofabouthalfamileinwidth。Isawmanygazelles，andsucceededinstalkingafinebuck，andkillinghimwitharifle。

"May26——Marchedtenhours。Sawgazelles，butsowildthatitwasimpossibletoshoot。Thermometer110degreesFahr。

"May27——Marchedfourhoursandforty-fiveminutes，whenwewereobligedtohalt，asF。isveryill。IntheeveningIshottwogazelles，whichkeptthepartyinmeat。

"May28——Marchedfifteenhours，tomakeupforthedelayofyesterday。Shotabuckontheroute。

"May29——Themarchofyesterdaycutoffanangleoftheriver，andwemadeastraightcoursethroughthedesert，avoidingabendofthestream。At7。30thismorningwemettheNileagain。thesamecharacterofcountryasbefore，theriverfullofrocks，andformingasuccessionofrapidstheentiredistancefromAbouHammed。Navigationatthisseasonisimpossible，andismostdangerousevenatflood-time。Thesimoomisfearful，andtheheatissointensethatitwasimpossibletodrawthegun-casesoutoftheirleathercovers，whichitwasnecessarytocutopen。Allwoodworkiswarped。ivoryknife-handlesaresplit。paperbreakswhencrunchedinthehand，andtheverymarrowseemstobedriedoutofthebonesbythishorriblesimoom。Oneofourcamelsfelldowntodie。Shottwobuckgazelles。Isawmany，buttheyareverywild。

"May3O——Theextremedrynessoftheairinducesanextraordinaryamountofelectricityinthehair，andinallwoollenmaterials。

AScotchplaidlaiduponablanketforafewhoursadherestoit，anduponbeingroughlywithdrawnatnightasheetofflameisproduced，accompaniedbytolerablyloudreports。

"May31——Afteranearlymarchofthreehoursandtwentyminutes，wearrivedatthetownofBerber，ontheNile，at9。35A。M。Wehavebeenfifty-sevenhoursandfiveminutesactuallymarchingfromAbouHammed，which，attwoandahalfmilesperhour，equals143miles。Wehavethusmarched373milesfromKoroskotoBerberinfifteendays。theentirerouteisthemonotonousNubiandesert。Ourcamelshaveaveragedtwenty-fivemilesperday，withloadsof400lbs。atacostofninetypiastres(about19s。)each，forthewholedistance。Thisrate，withtheadditionoftheguide'sexpenses，equalsabout5s。6d。per100lbs。forcarriagethroughout373milesofburningdesert。Althoughthisfrightfulcountryappearstobecutofffromallcommunicationwiththeworld，theextremelylowrateoftransportchargesaffordsgreatfacilityforcommerce。"*

*Sincethatdate，31stMay，1861，theepidemicorcattleplaguecarriedoffanimmensenumberofcamels，andthechargesoftransportrosein1864and1865toaratethatcompletelyparalysedthetradeofUpperEgypt。

Berberisalargetown，andinappearanceissimilartotheNiletownsofLowerEgypt，consistingoftheusualdusty，unpavedstreets，andflat-roofedhousesofsun-bakedbricks。ItistheseatofaGovernor，orMudir，andisgenerallythequartersforabout1，500troops。WewereverykindlyreceivedbyHalleemEffendi，theex-Governor，whoatoncegaveuspermissiontopitchthetentsinhisgarden，closetotheNile，onthesouthernoutskirtofthetown。Afterfifteendaysofdesertmarching，thesightofawell-cultivatedgardenwasanEdeninoureyes。Abouteightacresofland，onthemarginoftheriver，werethicklyplantedwithloftydategroves，andshadycitronandlemontrees，beneathwhichwerevelledinluxuryonourPersianrugs，andenjoyedcompleterestafterthefatigueofourlongjourney。

Countlessbirdswerechirpingandsinginginthetreesaboveus。

innumerablering-doveswerecooingintheshadypalms。andthesuddenchangefromthedeadsterilityofthedeserttothesceneofverdureandoflife，producedanextraordinaryeffectuponthespirits。Whatcausedthiscurioustransition?Whyshouldthischarmingoasis，teemingwithvegetationandwithlife，befoundintheyellow，sandydesert?……Waterhadworkedthischange。

thespiritoftheNile，morepotentthananygeniioftheArabianfables，hadtransformedthedesertintoafruitfulgarden。

HalleemEffendi，theformerGovernor，had，manyyearsago，plantedthisgarden，irrigatedbynumerouswater-wheels。andwenowenjoyedthefruits，andthankedHeavenforitsgreatestblessingsinthatburningland，shadeandcoolwater。

Thetentsweresoonarranged，thecamelswerepaidforanddischarged，andinthecooloftheeveningwewerevisitedbytheGovernorandsuite。

Thefirmanhavingbeenofficiallypresentedbythedragomanuponourarrivalinthemorning，theGovernorhadcalledwithmuchcivilitytoinquireintoourprojectsandtoofferassistance。Wewereshortlyseatedoncarpetsoutsidethetent，andafterpipesandcoffee，andtheusualpreliminarycompliments，mydragomanexplained，thatthemainobjectofourjourneywastosearchforthesourcesoftheNile，or，ashedescribedit，"theheadoftheriver。"

BoththeGovernorandHalleemEffendi，withmanyofficerswhohadaccompaniedthem，wereTurks。but，inspiteofthegravityandsolidityforwhichtheTurkisrenowned，theirfacesrelaxedintoavarietyofexpressionsatthis(tothem)absurdannouncement。

"TheheadoftheNile!"theyexclaimed，"impossible!""Dotheyknowwhereitis?"inquiredtheGovernor，ofthedragoman。anduponanexplanationbeinggiven，that，aswedidnotknowwhereitwas，wehadproposedtodiscoverit，theTurksmerelyshooktheirheads，sippedtheircoffee，andtookextrawhiffsattheirlongpipes，untilatlengththewhite-hairedoldHalleemEffendispoke。Hegavegoodandparentaladvice，asfollows:——

"Don'tgouponsoabsurdanerrand。nobodyknowsanythingabouttheNile，neitherwillanyonediscoveritssource。WedonotevenknowthesourceoftheAtbara。howshouldweknowthesourceofthegreatNile。AgreatportionoftheAtbaraflowsthroughthePashaofEgypt'sdominions。thefirmaninyourpossessionwithhissignature，willinsureyourespect，solongasyouremainwithinhisterritory。butifyoucrosshisfrontier，youwillbeinthehandsofsavages。TheWhiteNileisthecountryofthenegroes。wild，ferociousraceswhohaveneitherknowledgeofGodnorrespectforthePasha，andyoumusttravelwithapowerfularmedforce。theclimateisdeadly。howcouldyoupenetratesucharegiontosearchforwhatisuselessevenshouldyouattainit?Buthowwoulditbepossibleforalady，younganddelicate，toendurewhatwouldkillthestrongestman?TravelalongtheAtbarariverintotheTakacountry，thereismuchtobeseenthatisunexplored。butgiveupthemadschemeoftheNilesource。"

TherewassomesenseinoldHalleemEffendi'sadvice。itwasthecoolandcautiouswisdomofoldage，butasIwasnotsoelderly，Itookit"cumgranosalis。"Hewasacharmingoldgentleman，theperfectbeauidealofthetrueoldstyleofTurk，butfewspecimensofwhichremain。allthathehadsaidwasspokeninsincerity，andIresolvedtocollectasmuchinformationaspossiblefromthegrey-headedauthoritiesbeforeIshouldcommencetheexpedition。Iwasdeeplyimpressedwithonefact，thatuntilIcoulddispensewithaninterpreteritwouldbeimpossibletosucceed，thereforeIdeterminedtolearnArabicasspeedilyaspossible。

Aweek'srestinthegardenofHalleemEffendipreparedusforthejourney。IresolvedtoexploretheAtbarariverandtheAbyssinianaffluents，priortocommencingtheWhiteNilevoyage。

TheGovernorpromisedmetwoTurkishsoldiersasattendants，andIarrangedtosendmyheavybaggagebyboattoKhartoum，andsecuretheadvantageoftravellinglight。acomfortthatnoonecanappreciatewhohasnotfeltthedailydelayinloadingalongstringofcamels。BothmywifeandIhadsufferedfromashortattackoffeverbroughtonbytheprostratingeffectofthesimoom，whichatthisseason(June)wasatitsheight。TheNilewasslowlyrising，althoughitwasstilllow。occasionallyitfellabouteighteeninchesinonenight，butagainrose。thisprovedthat，althoughtherainshadcommenced，theywerenotconstant，asthesteadyandrapidincreaseoftheriverhadnottakenplace。TheauthoritiesassuredmethattheBlueNilewasnowrisingatKhartoum，whichaccountedfortheincreaseoftheriveratBerber。

ThegardenofHalleemEffendiwasattendedbyanumberoffinepowerfulslavesfromtheWhiteNile，whosestoutframesandglossyskinswereundeniablewitnessesoftheirmaster'scare。A

charminglyprettyslavegirlpaidusdailyvisits，withpresentsoffruitfromherkindmasterandnumerousmistresses，who，withtheusualTurkishcomplimentsasapreliminarymessage，requestedpermissiontovisittheEnglishlady。

Inthecoolhourofeveningabevyofladiesapproachedthroughthedarkgrovesofcitrontrees，sogailydressedinsilksofthebrightestdyesofyellow，blue，andscarlet，thatnobouquetofflowerscouldhavebeenmoregaudy。Theywereattendedbynumerousslaves，andtheheadservantpolitelyrequestedmetowithdrawduringtheinterview。Thusturnedoutofmytent，Iwascompelledtopatienceandsolitudebeneathaneighbouringdatepalm。

Theresultoftheinterviewwithmywifewasmostsatisfactory。

theusualwomanishquestionshadbeenrepliedto，andhostsofcomplimentsexchanged。WewerethenrichinallkindsofEuropeantriflesthatexcitedtheircuriosity，andafewlittlepresentsestablishedsogreatanamountofconfidencethattheygavetheindividualhistoryofeachmemberofthefamilyfromchildhood，thatwouldhavefilledacolumnoftheTimeswithbirths，deaths，andmarriages。

Someoftheseladieswereveryyoungandpretty，andofcourseexercisedacertaininfluenceovertheirhusbands。thus，onthefollowingmorning，wewereinundatedwithvisitors，asthemalemembersofthefamilycametothankusforthemannerinwhichtheirladieshadbeenreceived。andfruit，flowers，andthegeneralproduceofthegardenwerepresentedtousinprofusion。

Howeverpleasant，thereweredrawbackstoourgardenofEden。

therewasdustinourParadise。notthedustthatweseeinEuropeuponunwateredroads，thatsimplyfillstheeyes，butsuddencloudsraisedbywhirlwindsinthedesertwhichfairlychokedtheearsandnostrilswhenthusattacked。Juneistheseasonwhenthesephenomenaaremostprevalent。Atthattimetherainshavecommencedinthesouth，andareextendingtowardsthenorth。thecoldandheavyairofthesouthernrain-cloudssweepsdownupontheoverheatedatmosphereofthedesert，andproducessuddenviolentsquallsandwhirlwindswhenleastexpected，asatthattimetheskyiscloudless。

Theeffectofthesedesertwhirlwindsismostcurious，astheirforceissufficienttoraisedensecolumnsofsandanddustseveralthousandfeethigh。thesearenottheevanescentcreationsofachangingwind，buttheyfrequentlyexistformanyhours，andtravelforward，ormoreusuallyincircles，resemblinginthedistancesolidpillarsofsand。TheArabsuperstitioninveststheseappearanceswiththesupernatural，andthemysterioussand-columnofthedesertwanderinginitsburningsolitude，isanevilspirit，a"Gin"("genii"plural，oftheArabianNights)。Ihavefrequentlyseenmanysuchcolumnsatthesametimeintheboundlessdesert，alltravellingorwaltzinginvariousdirectionsatthewilfulchoiceofeachwhirlwind:thisvagrancyofcharacterisanundoubtedprooftotheArabmindoftheirindependentanddiabolicalorigin。

TheAbyssiniantraveller，Bruce，appearstohaveentertainedapeculiardreadofthedangersofsuchsandcolumns，butonthispointhisfearwasexaggerated。Casesmayhaveoccurredwherecaravanshavebeensuffocatedbywhirlwindsofsand，butthesearerareexceptions，andtheusualeffectsoftheduststormaretheunroofingofthatchedhuts，thedestructionofafewdatepalms，andthedisagreeableamountofsandthatnotonlyhalfchokesbothmanandbeast，butburiesallobjectsthatmaybelyingonthegroundsomeinchesdeepindust。

Thewindatthisseason(June)waschangeable，andstrongblastsfromthesouthweretheharbingersoftheapproachingrainyseason。Wehadnotimetolose，andweaccordinglyarrangedtostart。Idischargedmydirtycook，andengagedamanwhowasbroughtbyacoffee-housekeeper，bywhomhewashighlyrecommended。but，asaprecautionagainstdeception，IledhimbeforetheMudir，orGovernor，toberegisteredbeforeourdeparture。Tomyastonishment，andtohisinfinitedisgust，hewasimmediatelyrecognisedasanoldoffender，whohadformerlybeenimprisonedfortheft!TheGovernor，toprovehisfriendship，andhisinterestinmywelfare，immediatelysentthepolicetocapturethecoffee-housekeeperwhohadrecommendedthecook。NosoonerwastheunluckysuretybroughttotheDivanthanhewascondemnedtoreceive200lashesforhavinggivenafalsecharacter。Thesentencewasliterallycarriedout，inspiteofmyremonstrance，andthepolicewereorderedtomakethecasepublictopreventarecurrence。TheGovernorassuredme，thatasIheldafirmanfromtheViceroyhecouldnotdootherwise，andthatI

mustbelievehimtobemytruestfriend。"Savemefrommyfriends，"wasanadagequicklyproved。Icouldnotprocureacook，neitheranyotherattendants，aseveryonewasafraidtoguaranteeacharacter，lesthemightcomeinforhisshareofthe200lashes!

TheGovernorcametomyrescue，andsentimmediatelythepromisedTurkishsoldiers，whoweretoactinthedoublecapacityofescortandservants。Theyweremenoftotallyoppositecharacters。HadjiAchmetwasahardy，powerful，dare-devil-lookingTurk，whileHadjiVelliwastheperfectionofpoliteness，andasgentleasalamb。Mynewalliesprocuredmethreedonkeysinadditiontothenecessarybaggagecamels，andwestartedfromthepleasantgardenofHalleemEffendiontheeveningofthe10thofJuneforthejunctionoftheAtbarariverwiththeNile。

CHAPTERII。

"'MongstthemwereseveralEnglishmenofpith，SixteennamedThompson，andnineteennamedSmith。"

DONJUAN。

MAHOMET，Achmet，andAliareequivalenttoSmith，Brown，andThompson。Accordingly，ofmyfewattendants，mydragomanwasMahomet，andmyprincipalguidewasAchmet。andsubsequentlyI

hadanumberofAlis。MahometwasaregularCairodragoman，anativeofDongola，almostblack，butexceedinglytenaciousregardinghisshadeofcolour，whichhedeclaredtobelightbrown。HespokeverybadEnglish，wasexcessivelyconceited，andirascibletoadegree。Nopashawassobumptiousoroverbearingtohisinferiors，buttomeandtohismistresswhileinCairohehadthegentlenessofthedove，andIhadengagedhimat5l。permonthtoaccompanymetotheWhiteNile。Menchangewithcircumstances。climateaffectsthehealthandtemper。thesleekandwell-feddogisamiable，buthewouldbeviciouswhenthinandhungry。themaninluxuryandthemaninneedarenotequallyangelic。NowMahometwasoneofthosedragomenwhoareaccustomedtothecivilizedexpeditionsoftheBritishtouristtothefirstorsecondcataract，inaNileboatrepletewithconveniencesandluxuries，uponwhichthedragomanismonarchsupreme，awhaleamongtheminnows，whorulesthevessel，purchasesdailyahostofunnecessarysupplies，uponwhichheclearshisprofit，untilhereturnstoCairowithhispocketsfilledsufficientlytosupporthimuntilthefollowingNileseason。Theshortthreemonths'harvest，fromNovemberuntilFebruary，fillshisgranaryfortheyear。Undersuchcircumstancesthetempershouldbeangelic。Buttimeshadchanged:theluxuriousMahomethadleftthecomfortableNileboatatKorosko，andhehadcrossedtheburningdesertuponajoltingcamel。hehadleftthewell-knownroutewherethedragomanwassupreme，andhefoundhimselfamongpeoplewhotreatedhiminthelightofacommonservant。"A

changecameo'erthespiritofhisdream。"Mahometwasnolongeragreatman，andhistemperchangedwithcircumstances。infact，Mahometbecameunbearable，andstillhewasabsolutelynecessary，ashewasthetongueoftheexpeditionuntilweshouldaccomplishArabic。Tohimtheveryideaofexplorationwasanabsurdity。hehadneverbelievedinitfromthefirst，andhenowbecameimpressedwiththefactthathewaspositivelycommittedtoanundertakingthatwouldendmostlikelyinhisdeath，ifnotinterribledifficulties。hedetermined，underthecircumstances，tomakehimselfasdisagreeableaspossibletoallparties。WiththisamiableresolutionMahometadoptedaphysicalinfirmityintheshapeofdeafness。inreality，noonewasmoreacuteinhearing，butastherearenobellswheretherearenohouses，heofcoursecouldnotanswersuchasummons，andhewascompelledtoattendtothecallofhisownname——"Mahomet!Mahomet!"Noreply，althoughtheindividualwassittingwithinafewfeet，apparentlyabsorbedinthecontemplationofhisownboots。

"Mahomet!"withanadditionalemphasisuponthesecondsyllable。

Againnoresponse。"Mahomet，yourascal，whydon'tyouanswer?"

Thisenergeticaddresswouldeffectachangeinhisposition。themildandlamb-likedragomanofCairowouldsuddenlystartfromtheground，tearhisownhairfromhisheadinhandfuls，andshout，"Mahomet!Mahomet!Mahomet!alwaysMahomet!D——nMahomet!

Iwishheweredead，orbackinCairo，thisbruteMahomet!"Theirascibledragomanwouldthenbeathisownheadunmercifullywithhisfists，inaparoxysmofrage。

TocomforthimIcouldonlyexclaim，"Welldone，Mahomet!thrashhim。pommelhimwell。punchhishead。youknowhimbest。hedeservesit。don'tsparehim!"Thisadvice，actinguponthenaturalperversityofhisdisposition，generallysoothedhim，andheceasedpunchinghishead。Thismanwasentirelyoutofhisplace，ifnotoutofhismind，atcertainmoments，andhavingupononeoccasionsmashedabasinbythrowingitinthefaceofthecook，anduponanotheroccasionnarrowlyescapedhomicide，bythrowinganaxeataman'shead，whichmissedbyaninch，hebecameanotoriouscharacterinthelittleexpedition。

WeleftBerberintheeveningatsunset。weweremountedupondonkeys，whileourTurkishattendantsrodeuponexcellentdromedariesthatbelongedtotheirregimentofirregularcavalry。

Asusual，whenreadytostart，Mahometwasthelast。hehadpiledahugemassofbagsandvariousluggageuponhisdonkey，thatalmostobscuredtheanimal，andhesatmounteduponthispinnacledressedingorgeousclothes，withabraceofhandsomepistolsinhisbelt，andhisgunslungacrosshisshoulders。Uponmyremonstratingwithhimuponthecrueltyofthusoverloadingthedonkey，heflewintoafitofrage，anddismountingimmediately，hedrewhispistolsfromhisbeltanddashedthemupontheground。hisgunsharedthesamefate，andheavinghisweaponsuponthesand，hesullenlywalkedbehindhisdonkey，whichhedroveforwardwiththecaravan。

Wepushedforwardattheusualrapidambleofthedonkeys。and，accompaniedbyHadjiAchmetuponhisdromedary，withthecoffee-pot，&c。andalargePersianrugslungbehindthesaddle，wequicklydistancedtheslowercaravanunderthechargeofHadjiVelliandthesullenMahomet。

Therewasnodifficultyintheroute，asthesteriledesertofsandandpebbleswasboundedbyafringeofbushamidmimosathatmarkedthecourseoftheNile，towhichourwaylayparallel。

Therewasnoobjecttoattractparticularattention，andnosoundbutthatofthebleatinggoatsdrivenhomewardbytheArabboys，andthesharpcryofthedesertsandgrouseastheyarrivedinflockstodrinkinthewelcomeriver。Theflightofthesebirdsisextremelyrapid，andismorelikethatofthepigeonthanthegrouse。theyinhabitthedesert，buttheytravelgreatdistancesbothnightandmorningtowater，astheyinvariablydrinktwiceaday。Astheyapproachtherivertheyutterthecry"Chuckow，chuckow，"inaloudclearnote，andimmediatelyafterdrinkingtheyreturnupontheirlongflighttothedesert。Thereareseveralvarietiesofthesandgrouse。Ihavemetwiththree，buttheyaredry，tough，andworthlessasgame。

WesleptinthedesertaboutfivemilesfromBerber，andonthefollowingday，afterascorchingmarchofabouttwentymiles，wearrivedatthejunctionoftheAtbarariverwiththeNile。

Throughouttheroutethebarrensandstretchedtothehorizonontheleft，whileontheright，withinamileoftheNile，thesoilwassufficientlyrichtosupportacertainamountofvegetation——chieflydwarfmimosasandtheAsclepiasgigantea。ThelatterIhadfrequentlyseeninCeylon，whereitisusedmedicinallybythenativedoctors。buthereitwasignored，exceptfortheproduceofabeautifulsilkydownwhichisusedforstuffingcushionsandpillows。Thisvegetablesilkiscontainedinasoftpodorbladderaboutthesizeofanorange。

Boththeleavesandthestemofthisplantemitahighlypoisonousmilk，thatexudesfromthebarkwhencutorbruised。

theleastdropofthiswillcausetotalblindness，ifincontactwiththeeye。Ihaveseenseveralinstancesofacuteophthalmiathathaveterminatedinlossofsightfromtheaccidentalrubbingoftheeyewiththehandwhenengagedincuttingfirewoodfromtheasclepias。Thewoodisextremelylight，andisfrequentlytiedintofagotsandusedbytheArabsasasupportwhileswimming，inlieuofcork。Althoughthepoisonousqualitiesoftheplantcauseittobeshunnedbyallotheranimals，itisneverthelessgreedilydevouredbygoats，whoeatitunharmed。

ItwasabouttwohoursaftersunsetwhenwearrivedatthesteepbankoftheAtbarariver。Pushingthroughthefringeofyoungdomepalmsthatformedathickcovertuponthemargin，wecautiouslydescendedthebankforabouttwenty-fivefeet，asthebrightglareoftheriver'sbeddeceivedmebytheresemblancetowater。Wefoundabroadsurfaceofwhitesand，whichatthatseasonformedthedrybedoftheriver。Crossingthisaridbottomofabout400yardsinwidth，weunsaddledontheoppositeside，byabedofwatermelonsplantednearasmallpoolofwater。A

fewofthesewechoppedinpiecesforourtireddonkeys，andwesharedinthecoolandwelcomeluxuryourselvesthatwasmostrefreshingafterthefatigueoftheday'sjourney。Longbeforeourcamelsarrived，wehaddrunkourcoffeeandweresoundasleepuponthesandybedoftheAtbara。

Atdaybreakonthefollowingmorning，whilethecamelswerebeingloaded，Istrolledtoasmallpoolinthesand，temptedbyacoupleofwildgeese。theseweresufficientlyunsophisticatedastoallowmetoapproachwithinshot，andIbaggedthemboth，andsecuredourbreakfast。theywerethecommonEgyptiangeese，whicharenotverydelicateeating。Thedonkeysbeingsaddled，weatoncestartedwithourattendant，HadjiAchmet，ataboutfivemilesperhour，inadvanceofourslowercaravan。Theroutewasupontheriver'smargin，dueeast，throughasandycopseofthornymimosaswhichfringedtheriver'scourseforaboutaquarterofamileoneitherside。beyondthisallwasdesert。

TheAtbarahadacuriousappearance。innopartwasitlessthan400yardsinwidth，whileinmanyplacesthisbreadthwasmuchexceeded。Thebankswerefromtwenty-fivetothirtyfeetdeep:

thesehadevidentlybeenover-flowedduringfloods，bntatthepresenttimetheriverwasdead。notonlypartiallydry，butsoglaringwasthesandybed，thatthereflectionofthesunwasalmostunbearable。

Greatnumbersofthedomepalm(HyphoeneThebaica，Mart。)grewuponthebanks。thesetreesareofgreatservicetotheArabtribes，whoatthisseasonofdroughtforsakethedesertsandflockuponthemarginoftheAtbara。Theleavesofthedomesupplythemwithexcellentmaterialformatsandropes，whilethefruitisusedbothformanandbeast。Thedomepalmresemblesthepalmyraintheformandtextureofitsfan-shapedleaves，butthereisadistinguishingpeculiarityinthegrowth:insteadofthestraightsinglestemofthepalmyra，thedomepalmspreadsintobranches，eachofwhichinvariablyrepresentstheletterY。

Thefruitgrowsindenseclusters，numberingseveralhundred，ofthesizeofasmallorange，butofanirregularovalshape。theseareofarichbrowncolour，andbearanaturalpolishasthoughvarnished。Sohardisthefruitanduninvitingtotheteeth，thatadealboardwouldbeequallypracticableformastication。theArabspoundthembetweenstones，bywhichroughprocesstheydetachtheedibleportionintheformofaresinouspowder。Therindofthenutwhichproducesthispowderisaboutaquarterofaninchthick。thiscoatingcoversastrongshellwhichcontainsanutofvegetableivory，alittlelargerthanafull-sizedwalnut。Whentheresinouspowderisdetached，itiseithereatenraw，oritisboiledintoadeliciousporridge，withmilk。thishasastrongflavourofgingerbread。

Thevegetableivorynutsarethensoakedinwaterforabouttwenty-fourhours，afterwhichtheyareheapedinlargepilesuponafireuntilnearlydry，andthoroughlysteamed。thisprocessrendersthemsufficientlytractabletobereducedbypoundinginaheavymortar。Thus，brokenintosmallpiecestheysomewhatresemblehalf-roastedchestnuts，andinthisstatetheyformexcellentfoodforcattle。TheusefuldomepalmisthechiefsupportofthedesertArabswhenintimesofdroughtandscarcitythesupplyofcornhasfailed。Atthisseason(June)therewasnotabladeofeventhewitheredgrassofthedesertoases。Ourdonkeyslivedexclusivelyuponthedhurra(SorghumEgyptiaca)

thatwecarriedwithus，andthecamelsrequiredadailysupplyofcorninadditiontothedrytwigsandbushesthatformedtheirdustyfood。Themarginoftheriverwasmiserableanduninviting。

thetreesandbusheswereentirelyleaflessfromtheintenseheat，asarethetreesinEnglandduringwinter。Theonlyshadewasaffordedbytheevergreendomepalms。nevertheless，theArabsoccupiedthebanksatintervalsofthreeorfourmiles，whereverapoolofwaterinsomedeepbendofthedriedriver'sbedofferedanattraction。insuchplaceswereArabvillagesorcamps，oftheusualmattentsformedofthedomepalmleaves。

Manypoolswereofconsiderablesizeandofgreatdepth。Inflood-timeatremendoustorrentsweepsdownthecourseoftheAtbara，andthesuddenbendsoftheriverarehollowedoutbytheforceofthestreamtoadepthoftwentyorthirtyfeetbelowthelevelofthebed。Accordinglytheseholesbecomereservoirsofwaterwhentheriverisotherwiseexhausted。Insuchasylumsalltheusualinhabitantsofthislargeriverarecrowdedtogetherinacomparativelynarrowspace。Althoughthesepoolsvaryinsize，fromonlyafewhundredyardstoamileinlength，theyarepositivelyfulloflife。hugefish，crocodilesofimmensesize，turtles，andoccasionallyhippopotami，consorttogetherincloseandunwished-forproximity。

Theanimalsofthedesert——gazelles，hyaenas，andwildasses——arecompelledtoresorttothesecrowdeddrinking-places，occupiedbytheflocksoftheArabsequallywiththetimidbeastsofthechase。Thebirdsthatduringthecoolermonthswouldwanderfreethroughoutthecountry，arenowcollectedinvastnumbersalongthemarginoftheexhaustedriver。innumerabledoves，varyinginspecies，throngthetreesandseektheshadeofthedomepalms。

thousandsofdesertgrousearrivemorningandeveningtodrinkandtodepart。whilebirdsinmultitudes，oflovelyplumage，escapefromtheburningdesert，andcolonizethepoorbutwelcomebushesthatfringetheAtbarariver。

Theheatwasintense。AswetravelledalongthemarginoftheAtbara，andfeltwiththesufferinganimalstheexhaustionoftheclinmate，IacknowledgedthegrandeuroftheNilethatcouldovercometheabsorptionofsuchthirstysands，andtheevaporationcausedbytheburningatmosphereofNubia。Fornearly1，200milesfromthejunctionoftheAtbarawiththeparentstreamtotheMediterranean，notonestreamletjoinedthemysteriousriver，neitheronedropofrainruffleditswaters，unlessararethunder-shower，asacuriousphenomenon，startledtheArabsastheytravelledalongthedesert。NeverthelesstheNileovercameitsenemies，whiletheAtbarashranktoaskeleton，bareandexhausted，reducedtoafewpoolsthatlaylikeblotchesalongthebroadsurfaceofglowingsand。

Notwithstandingtheoverpoweringsun，therewerecertainadvantagestothetravelleratthisseason。itwasunnecessarytocarryalargesupplyofwater，asitcouldbeobtainedatintervalsofafewmiles。Therewasanindescribabledelightinthecoolnight，when，intheperfectcertaintyoffineweather，wecouldrestintheopenairwiththeclearbrightstarlitskyaboveus。Therewerenomosquitoes，neitherwerethereanyoftheinsectplaguesofthetropics。theairwastoodryforthegnattribe，andthemomentofsunsetwasthesignalforperfectenjoyment，freefromtheusualdrawbacksofAfricantravel。Astheriverpoolsweretheonlydrinking-placesforbirdsandgame，thegunsuppliednotonlymyownparty，butIhadmuchtogiveawaytotheArabsinexchangeforgoat'smilk，themealofthedomenuts，&c。Gazelleswereexceedinglynumerous，butshy，andsodifficulttoapproachthattheyrequiredmostcarefulstalking。Atthisseasonofintenseheattheydranktwiceaday——ataboutanhouraftersunrise，andhalfanhourbeforesunset。

Thegreatcomfortoftravellingalongthebankoftheriverinadesertcountryistheperfectfreedom，asacontinualsupplyofwaterenablestheexplorertorestathisleisureinanyattractivespotwheregameisplentiful，orwherethenaturalfeaturesofthecountryinviteinvestigation。Weaccordinglyhalted，aftersomedays'journey，ataspotnamedCollodabad，whereanangleoftheriverhadleftadeeppoolofaboutamileinlength:thiswasthelargestsheetofwaterthatwehadseenthroughoutthecourseoftheAtbara。AnumberofArabshadcongregatedatthisspotwiththeirflocksandherds。thetotalabsenceofverdurehadreducedtheanimalstoextremeleanness，asthegoatsgatheredtheirscantysustenancefromtheseed-podsofthemimosas，whichwereshakendowntotheexpectantflocksbytheArabboys，withlonghookedpoles。Theseseedswereextremelyoily，andresembledlinseed，buttherankflavourwasdisagreeableandacrid。

Thisspotwassevendays'marchfromtheNilejunction，orabout160miles。Thejourneyhadbeenextremelymonotonous，astherehadbeennochangeinthescenery。itwastheinterminabledesert，withthesolitarystreakofvegetationinthebeltofmimosasanddomepalms，aboutamileandahalfinwidth，thatmarkedthecourseoftheriver。Ihaddailyshotgazelles，geese，pigeons，desertgrouse，&c。butnolargergame。Iwasinformedthatatthisspot，Collodabad，Ishouldbeintroducedforthefirsttimetothehippopotamus。

Owingtothetotalabsenceofnourishingfood，thecattleproducedascantysupplyofmilk。thustheArabs，whodependedchieflyupontheirflocksfortheirsubsistence，wereingreatdistress，andmenandbeastsmutuallysufferedextremehardship。

TheArabsthatoccupythedesertnorthoftheAtbaraaretheBishareens。itwasamongalargeconcourseofthesepeoplethatwepitchedourtentsonthebanksoftheriveratCollodabad。

Thisbeingtheprincipalwatering-placealongthedesertedbedoftheAtbara，theneighbourhoodliterallyswarmedwithdoves，sandgrouse，andotherbirds，inadditiontomanygeeseandpelicans。

EarlyinthemorningIprocuredanArabguidetosearchforthereportedhippopotami。Mytentswereamongagroveofdomepalmsonthemarginoftheriver。thusIhadaclearviewofthebedforadistanceofabouthalfamileoneitherside。ThisportionoftheAtbarawasabout500yardsinwidth，thebankswereaboutthirtyfeetperpendiculardepth。andthebendoftheriverhadcausedtheformationofthedeephollowontheoppositesidewhichnowformedthepool，whileeveryotherpartwasdry。Thispooloccupiedaboutone-thirdthebreadthoftheriver，boundedbythesandupononeside，andbyaperpendicularcliffupontheother，uponwhichgrewafringeofgreenbushessimilartowillows。TheseweretheonlysucculentleavesthatIhadseensinceIleftBerber。

WedescendedthesteepsandybankinaspotthattheArabshadbrokendowntoreachthewater，andaftertrudgingacrossabout400yardsofdeepsand，wereachedtheextremeandnarrowestendofthepool。hereforthefirsttimeIsawthepeculiarfour-toedprintofthehippopotamus'sfoot。AbedofmelonshadbeenplantedherebytheArabsinthemoistsandnearthewater，butthefruithadbeenentirelyrobbedbythehippopotami。Amelonisexactlyadaptedforthemouthofthisanimal，ashecouldcrunchthelargestatonesqueeze，andrevelinthejuice。Notcontentedwiththesimplefruitsofthegarden，alargebullhippopotamushadrecentlykilledtheproprietor。TheArabwishedtodriveitfromhisplantation，butwasimmediatelyattackedbythehippo，whocaughthiminitsmouthandkilledhimbyonecrunch。Thislittleincidenthadrenderedthehippoexceedinglydaring，andithaduponseveraloccasionschargedoutofthewater，whenthepeoplehaddriventheirgoatstodrink。thereforeitwouldbethemoresatisfactorytoobtainashot，andtosupplythehungryArabswithmeatattheexpenseoftheirenemy。

Atthisearlyhour，6A。M。，noonehaddescendedtothepool，thusallthetracksuponthemarginwerefreshandundisturbed:

therewerethehugemarksofcrocodilesthathadrecentlyreturnedtothewater，whilemanyofgreatsizewerestilllyinguponthesandinthedistance:theseslowlycreptintothepoolasweapproached。TheArabshaddugsmallholesinthesandwithinafewyardsofthewater:theseweretheartificialdrinking-placesfortheirgoatsandsheep，thatwouldhavebeensnappedupbythecrocodileshadtheyventuredtodrinkinthepoolofcrowdedmonsters。Iwalkedforaboutamileandahalfalongthesandwithoutseeingasignofhippopotami，excepttheirnumeroustracksuponthemargin。Therewasnowind，andthesurfaceofthewaterwasunruffled。thusIcouldseeeverycreaturethatroseinthepooleithertobreatheortobaskinthemorningsunshine。Thenumberandsizeofthefish，turtles，andcrocodileswereextraordinary。manybeautifulgazellesapproachedfromallsidesfortheirmorningdraught:wildgeese，generallyinpairs，disturbedthewarycrocodilesbytheircryofalarmaswedrewnear，andthedesertgrouseinflocksofmanythousandshadgatheredtogether，andwerecirclinginarapidflightabovethewater，wishing，butafraid，todescendanddrink。Havingashotgunwithme，Ifiredandkilledsixatonedischarge，butoneofthewoundedbirdshavingfallenintothewateratadistanceofabout120yards，itwasimmediatelyseizedbyawhite-throatedfish-eagle，whichpercheduponatree，swoopeddownuponthebird，utterlydisregardingthereportofthegun。TheBishareenArabshavenofire-arms，thusthesoundofagunwasunknowntothegameofthedesert。

Ihadkilledseveralwildgeeseforbreakfastintheabsenceofthehippopotami，whenIsuddenlyheardthepeculiarloudsnortingneighoftheseanimalsinmyrear。wehadpassedthemunperceived，astheyhadbeenbeneaththesurface。Afteraquickwalkofabouthalfamile，duringwhichtimethecryofthehipposhadbeenseveraltimesrepeated，Iobservedsixofthesecuriousanimalsstandinginthewateraboutshoulder-deep。Therewasnocover，thereforeIcouldonlyadvanceuponthesandwithoutachanceofstalkingthem。thiscausedthemtoretreattodeeperwater，butuponmyarrivalwithinabouteightyyards，theyraisedtheirheadswellup，andsnortedanimpudentchallenge。I

hadmyoldCeylonNo。10doublerifle，and，takingasteadyaimatthetempleofonethatappearedtobethelargest，theballcrackedloudlyupontheskull。Neverhadtherebeensuchacommotioninthepoolasnow!Atthereportoftherifle，fiveheadssankanddisappearedlikestones，butthesixthhippoleapedhalfoutofthewater，and，fallingbackwards，commencedaseriesofviolentstruggles:nowuponhisback。thenupononeside，withallfourlegsfranticallypaddling，andraisingacloudofsprayandfoam。thenwaltzingroundandroundwithitshugejawswideopen，raisingaswellinthehithertocalmsurfaceofthewater。Aquickshotwiththeleft-handbarrelproducednoeffect，asthemovementsoftheanimalweretoorapidtoallowasteadyaimattheforehead。IaccordinglytookmytrmistylittleFletcher*doublerifleNo。24，and，runningknee-deepintothewatertoobtainacloseshot，Ifiredexactlybetweentheeyes，nearthecrownofthehead。AtthereportofthelittleFletcherthehippodisappeared。thetinywavesraisedbythecommotionbrokeuponthesand，butthegamewasgone。

*ThisexcellentandhandyriflewasmadebyThomasFletcher，ofGloucester，andaccompaniedmelikeafaithfuldogthroughoutmyjourneyofnearlyfiveyearstotheAlbertN'yanza，andreturnedwithmetoEnglandasgoodasnew。

Thisbeingmyfirstvis-a-viswithahippo，IwasnotcertainwhetherIcouldclaimthevictory。hewasgone，butwhere?

However，whileIwasspeculatinguponthecase，Iheardatremendousrushofwater，andIsawfivehippopotamitearingalonginfulltrotthroughaportionofthepoolthatwasnotdeepenoughtocoverthemabovetheshoulder:thiswastheaffairofabouthalfaminute，astheyquicklyreacheddeepwater，anddisappearedataboutahundredandfiftyyards'distance。

ThefactoffivehipposinretreatafterIhadcountedsixintheonsetwasconclusivethatmywaltzingfriendwaseitherdeadordisabled。Iaccordinglylostnotimeinfollowingthedirectionoftheherd。HardlyhadIarrivedatthespotwheretheyhaddisappeared，whenfirstoneandthenanotherheadpoppedupandagainsank，untilonemorehardythantherestventuredtoappearwithinfiftyyards，andtobellowasbefore。OncemoretheNo。10

crashedthroughhishead，andagainthewaltzingandstrugglingcommencedlikethepaddlingofasteamer:thistime，however，thestunnedhippoinitsconvulsiveeffortscamesoclosetotheshorethatIkilleditdirectlyinshallowwater，byaforeheadshotwiththelittleFletcher。Iconcludedfromthisresultthatmyfirsthippomustalsobelyingdeadindeepwater。

TheArabs，havingheardtheshotsfired，hadbeguntogathertowardsthespot，and，uponmymenshoutingthatahippowaskilled，crowdscamerunningtotheplacewiththeirknivesandropes，whileothersreturnedtotheirencampmenttofetchcamelsandmatbagstoconveytheflesh。InhalfanhouratleastthreehundredArabswereonthespot。thehippohadbeenhauledtoshorebyropes，and，bytheunitedeffortsofthecrowd，theheavycarcasehadbeenrolledtotheedgeofthewater。Heretheattackcommenced。nopackofhungryhyaenascouldhavebeenmoresavage。Igavethempermissiontotaketheflesh，andinaninstantahundredkniveswereatwork:theyfoughtoverthespoillikewolves。Nosoonerwasthecarcaseflayedthanthestrugglecommencedforthemeat。thepeoplewereamassofblood，assomestoodthigh-deepinthereekingintestineswrestlingforthefat，whilemanyhackedateachother'shandsforcovetedportionsthatwerestrivenforasabonnebouche。Ileftthesavagecrowdintheirferociousenjoymentoffleshandblood，andIreturnedtocampforbreakfast，myTurk，HadjiAchmet，carryingsomehippopotamussteaks。

ThatmorningmywifeandIbreakfasteduponourfirsthippo，ananimalthatwasdestinedtobeourgeneralfoodthroughoutourjourneyamongtheAbyssiniantributariesoftheNile。AfterbreakfastwestrolleddowntothepooltosearchforthehippopotamusNo。1。Thisweatoncefound，dead，asithadrisentothesurface，andwasfloatinglikethebackofaturtleafewinchesabovethewater。TheArabshadbeensointentuponthedivisionoftheirspoilthattheyhadnotobservedtheirnewprize。accordingly，uponthesignalbeinggiven，ageneralrushtookplace，andinhalfanhourasimilarscenewasenactedtothatofhippoNo。2。

TheentireArabcampwasincommotionandfullofjoyatthisunlooked-forarrivalofflesh。Camelsladenwithmeatandhidetoiledalongthesandybedoftheriver。thewomenraisedtheirlongandshrillcryofdelight。andwewerelookeduponasgeneralbenefactorsforhavingbroughtthemasupplyofgoodfoodinthisseasonofdistress。IntheafternoonIarrangedmytackle，andstrolleddowntothepooltofish。Therewasadifficultyinprocuringbait。awormwasneverheardofintheburningdesertsofNubia，neitherhadIanettocatchsmallfish。Iwasthereforeobligedtobaitwithpiecesofhippopotamnus。FishinginsuchapoolasthatoftheAtbarawassufficientlyexciting，asitwasimpossibletospeculateuponwhatcreaturemightaccepttheinvitation。buttheArabswhoaccompaniedmewereparticularinguardingmeagainstthepositionIhadtakenunderawillow-bushclosetothewater，astheyexplained，thatmostprobablyacrocodilewouldtakemeinsteadofthebait。theydeclaredthataccidentshadfrequentlyhappenedwhenpeoplehadsatuponthebankeithertodrinkwiththeirhands，orevenwhilewatchingtheirgoats。Iaccordinglyfishedatafewfeetdistantfromthemargin，andpresentlyIhadabite。Ilandedaspeciesofperchabouttwopounds'weight。

thiswasthe"boulti，"oneofthebestNilefishmentionedbythetravellerBruce。InashorttimeIhadcaughtarespectabledishoffish，buthithertonomonsterhadpaidmetheslightestattention。accordinglyIchangedmybait，anduponapowerfulhook，fittedupontreble-twistedwire，Ifastenedanenticingstripofaboulti。Thebaitwasaboutfourounces，andglistenedlikesilver。thewaterwastolerablyclear，butnottoobright，andwithsuchanattractionIexpectedsomethingheavy。Myfloatwasalarge-sizedpike-floatforlivebait，andthiscivilizedsignhadbeenonlyafewminutesinthewildwatersoftheAtbara，when，bob!andawayitwent!Ihadaverylargereel，withnearlythreehundredyardsoflinethathadbeenspeciallymadeformonsters。downwentthetopofmyrod，asthoughagrindstonewassuspendedonit，and，asIrecovereditsposition，awaywenttheline，andthereelrevolved，notwiththesuddendashofaspiritedfish，butwiththesteadydeterminedpullofatrottinghorse。WhatonearthhaveIgotholdof?Inafewminutesaboutahundredyardsoflinewereout，andasthecreaturewassteadilybutslowlytravellingdownthecentreofthechannel，Ideterminedtocry"halt!"ifpossible，asmytacklewasextremelystrong，andmyrodwasasinglebamboo。

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