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加书签

第3章
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ButIcouldhavelistenedtoSirWilliamLoganforthewholeday,iftimeallowed。Ifound,eveninthathour,thatsomeideasfoundtheirwaythroughtome,andIbegantofancythatevenIcouldbecomeageologistatMontreal。

OverandbeyondSirWilliamLogan,thereisatMontrealforstrangersthedriveroundthemountain,notveryexciting,andthereisthetubularbridgeovertheSt。Lawrence。This,itmustbeunderstood,isnotmadeinonetube,asisthatovertheMenaiStraits,butisdividedinto,Ithink,thirteentubes。Totheeyethereappeartobetwenty-fivetubes;buteachofthesixsidetubesissupportedbyapierinthemiddle。Agreatpartoftheexpenseofthebridgewasincurredinsinkingtheshaftsforthesepiers。

CHAPTERV。

UPPERCANADA。

OttawaisinUpperCanada,butcrossingthesuspensionbridgefromOttawaintoHull,thetravelerisinLowerCanada。Itisthereforeexactlyintheconfines,andhasbeenchosenasthesiteofthenewgovernmentcapitalverymuchforthisreason。Otherreasonshavenodoubthadashareinthedecision。AtthetimewhenthechoicewasmadeOttawawasnotlargeenoughtocreatethejealousyofthemorepopuloustowns。Thoughnotonthemainlineofrailway,itwasconnectedwithitbyabranchrailway,anditisalsoconnectedwiththeSt。Lawrencebywatercommunication。Andthenitstandsnoblyonamagnificentriver,withhigh,overhangingrock,andanaturalgrandeurofpositionwhichhasperhapsgonefarinrecommendingittothosewhosevoiceinthematterhasbeenpotential。HavingtheworldofCanadafromwhencetochoosethesiteofanewtown,thechoosershavecertainlychosenwell。Itisanotherquestionwhetherornoanewtownshouldhavebeendeemednecessary。

PerhapsitmaybewelltoexplainthecircumstancesunderwhichitwasthoughtexpedientthustoestablishanewCanadiancapital。In1841,whenLordSydenhamwasGovernor-Generaloftheprovinces,thetwoCanadas,separatetillthen,wereunitedunderonegovernment。

AtthattimethepeopleofLowerorFrenchCanada,andthepeopleofUpperorEnglishCanada,differedmuchmoreintheirhabitsandlanguagethantheydonow。IdonotknowthattheEnglishhavebecomeinanywayGallicized,buttheFrenchhavebeenverymateriallyAnglicized。Butwhilethishasbeeninprogressnationaljealousyhasbeenatwork,andevenyetthatnationaljealousyisnotatanend。Whilethetwoprovincesweredividedtherewere,ofcourse,twocapitals,andtwoseatsofgovernment。

ThesewereatQuebecforLowerCanada,andatTorontoforUpperCanada,bothwhichtownsarecentricallysituatedasregardstherespectiveprovinces。Whentheunionwaseffected,itwasdeemedexpedientthatthereshouldbebutonecapital;andthesmalltownofKingstownwasselected,whichissituatedonthelowerendofLakeOntario,intheupperprovince。ButKingstownwasfoundtobeinconvenient,lackingspaceandaccommodationforthosewhohadtofollowthegovernment,andtheGovernorremoveditandhimselftoMontreal。Montrealisinthelowerprovince,butisverycentraltoboththeprovinces;anditismoreoverthechieftowninCanada。

Thiswouldhavedoneverywellbutforanunforeseenmisfortune。

Itwillberememberedbymostreadersthatin1837tookplacetheMackenzie-Papineaurebellion,ofwhichthosewhowerethenoldenoughtobepoliticiansheardsomuchinEngland。Iamnotgoingbacktorecountthehistoryoftheperiod,otherwisethantosaythattheEnglishCanadiansatthattime,inwithstandingandcombatingtherebels,didconsiderableinjurytothepropertyofcertainFrenchCanadians,andthat,whentherebellionhadblownoverandthoseinfaulthadbeenpardoned,aquestionarosewhetherornothegovernmentshouldmakegoodthelossesofthoseFrenchCanadianswhohadbeeninjured。TheEnglishCanadiansprotestedthatitwouldbemonstrousthattheyshouldbetaxedtorepairdamagessufferedbyrebels,andmadenecessaryinthesuppressionofrebellion。TheFrenchCanadiansdeclaredthattherebellionhadbeenonlyajustassertionoftheirrights;thatiftherehadbeencrimeonthepartofthosewhotookuparms,thatcrimehadbeencondoned,andthatthedamageshadnotfallenexclusivelyorevenchieflyonthosewhohaddoneso。Iwillgivenoopiniononthemeritsofthequestion,butsimplysaythatbloodranveryhotwhenitwasdiscussed。AtlasttheHousesoftheProvincialParliament,thenassembledatMontreal,decreedthatthelossesshouldbemadegoodbythepublictreasury;andtheEnglishmobinMontreal,whenthisdecreebecameknown,wasrousedtogreatwrathbyadecisionwhichseemedtobecondemnatoryofEnglishloyalty。ItpeltedLordElgin,theGovernor-General,withrotteneggs,andburneddowntheParliamenthouse。Hencetherearose,notunnaturally,astrongfeelingofangeronthepartofthelocalgovernmentagainstMontreal;andmoreovertherewasnolongerahouseinwhichtheParliamentcouldbeheldinthattown。Fortheseconjointreasonsitwasdecidedtomovetheseatofgovernmentagain,anditwasresolvedthattheGovernorandtheParliamentshouldsitalternatelyatTorontoinUpperCanada,andatQuebecinLowerCanada,remainingfouryearsateachplace。TheywentatfirsttoTorontofortwoyearsonly,havingagreedthattheyshouldbethereonthisoccasiononlyfortheremainderofthetermofthethenParliament。AfterthattheywereatQuebecforfouryears;thenatTorontoforfour;andnowagainareatQuebec。Butthisarrangementhasbeenfoundveryinconvenient。Inthefirstplacethereisagreatnationalexpenditureincurredinmovingoldrecordsandinkeepingdoublerecords,inmovingthelibrary,and,asIhavebeeninformed,eventhepictures。Thegovernmentclerksalsoarecalledontomoveasthegovernmentmoves;andthoughanallowanceismadetothemfromthenationalpursetocovertheirloss,thearrangementhasneverthelessbeenfeltbythemtobeagrievance,asmaybewellunderstood。TheaccommodationalsofortheministersofthegovernmentandformembersofthetwoHouseshasbeeninsufficient。Hotels,lodgings,andfurnishedhousescouldnotbeprovidedtotheextentrequired,seeingthattheywouldbeleftnearlyemptyforeveryalternatespaceoffouryears。

Indeed,itneedsbutlittleargumenttoprovethattheplanadoptedmusthavebeenathoroughlyuncomfortableplan,andthewonderisthatitshouldhavebeenadopted。LowerCanadahadundertakentomakeallherleadingcitizenswretched,providingUpperCanadawouldtreatherswithequalseverity。Thishasnowgoneonforsometwelveyears,andasthesystemwasfoundtobeanunendurablenuisance,ithasbeenatlastadmittedthatsomestepsmustbetakentowardselectingonecapitalforthecountry。

Ishouldhere,injusticetotheCanadians,statearemarkmadetomeonthismatterbyoneofthepresentleadingpoliticiansofthecolony。Icannotthinkthatthemigratoryschemewasgoodbuthedefendedit,assertingthatithaddoneverymuchtoamalgamatethepeopleofthetwoprovinces;thatithadbroughtLowerCanadiansintoUpperCanada,andUpperCanadiansintoLowerCanada,teachingEnglishtothosewhospokeonlyFrenchbefore,andmakingeachpleasantlyacquaintedwiththeother。Ihavenodoubtthatsomething——perhapsmuch——hasbeendoneinthisway;butvaluableastheresultmayhavebeen,Icannotthinkitworththecostofthemeansemployed。Thebestanswertotheaboveargumentconsistsintheundoubtedfactthatamigratorygovernmentwouldneverhavebeenestablishedforsuchareason。ItwassoestablishedbecauseMontreal,thecentraltown,hadgivenoffense,andbecausethejealousyoftheprovincesagainsteachotherwouldnotadmitofthegovernmentbeingplacedentirelyatQuebec,orentirelyatToronto。

Butitwasnecessarythatsomestepshouldbetaken;andasitwasfoundtobeunlikelythatanyresolutionshouldbereachedbythejointprovincesthemselves,itwasloyallyandwiselydeterminedtoreferthemattertotheQueen。ThatHerMajestyhasconstitutionallythepowertocalltheParliamentofCanadaatanytownofCanadawhichshemayselect,admits,Iconceive,ofnodoubt。Itis,Iimagine,withinherprerogativetocalltheParliamentofEnglandwhereshemaypleasewithinthatrealm,thoughherliegeswouldbesomewhatstartledifitwerecalledotherwherethaninLondon。ItwasthereforewelldonetoaskHerMajestytoactasarbiterinthematter。ButtherearenotwantingthoseinCanadawhosaythatinreferringthemattertotheQueenitwasintruthreferringittothosebywhomverymanyoftheCanadianswereleastwillingtobeguidedinthematter;totheGovernor-Generalnamely,andtheColonialSecretary。ManyindeedinCanadanowdeclarethatthedecisionsimplyplacedthematterinthehandsoftheGovernor-General。

Bethatasitmay,Idonotthinkthatanyunbiasedtravelerwilldoubtthatthebestpossibleselectionhasbeenmade,presumingalways,aswemaypresumeinthediscussion,thatMontrealcouldnotbeselected。ItakeforgrantedthattherejectionofMontrealwasregardedasasinequanoninthedecision。Tomeitappearsgrievousthatthisshouldhavebeenso。Itisagreatthingforanycountrytohavealarge,leading,world-knowncity,andIthinkthatthegovernmentshouldcombinewiththecommerceofthecountryincarryingoutthisobject。Butcommercecandoagreatdealmoreforgovernmentthangovernmentcandoforcommerce。GovernmenthasselectedOttawaasthecapitalofCanada;butcommercehasalreadymadeMontrealthecapital,andMontrealwillbethechiefcityofCanada,letgovernmentdowhatitmaytofostertheothertown。

Theideaofspitingatownbecausetherehasbeenarowinitseemstometobepreposterous。TherowwasnottheworkofthosewhohavemadeMontrealrichandrespectable。MontrealismorecentricalthanOttawa——nay,itisasnearlycentricalasanytowncanbe。ItiseasiertogettoMontrealfromTorontothantoOttawa;andiffromToronto,thenfromallthatdistantportionofUpperCanadabackofToronto。ToallLowerCanadaMontrealis,asamatterofcourse,mucheasierofaccessthanOttawa。ButhavingsaidsomuchinfavorofMontreal,Iwillagainadmitthat,puttingasideMontreal,thebestpossibleselectionhasbeenmade。

WhenOttawawasnamed,notimewaslostinsettingtoworktoprepareforthenewmigration。In1859theParliamentwasremovedtoQuebec,withtheunderstandingthatitshouldremaintheretillthenewbuildingsshouldbecompleted。ThesebuildingswereabsolutelycommencedinApril,1860,anditwas,andIbelievestillis,expectedthattheywillbecompletedin1863。Iamnowwritinginthewinterof1861;and,asisnecessaryinCanadianwinters,theworksaresuspended。ButunfortunatelytheyweresuspendedintheearlypartofOctober——onthefirstofOctober——

whereastheymighthavebeencontinued,asfarastheseasonisconcerned,uptotheendofNovember。WereachedOttawaonthethirdofOctober,andmorethanathousandmenhadthenbeenjustdismissed。Allthemoneyinhandhadbeenexpended,andthegovernment——soitwassaid——couldgivenomoremoneytillParliamentshouldmeetagain。Thiswasmostunfortunate。Inthefirstplacethesuspensionwasagainstthecontractasmadewiththecontractorsforthebuilding;inthenextplacetherewasthedelay;andthen,worstofall,thequestionagainbecameagitatedwhetherthecoloniallegislaturewerereallyinearnestwithreferencetoOttawa。Manymenofmarkinthecolonywerestillanxious——Ibelievearestillanxious——toputanendtotheOttawascheme,andthinkthattherestillexistsforthemachanceofsuccess。Andverymanymenwhoarenotofmarkarethusunited,andafeelingofdoubtonthesubjecthasbeencreated。Twohundredandtwenty-fivethousandpoundshavealreadybeenspentonthesebuildings,andIhavenodoubtmyselfthattheywillbedulycompletedanddulyused。

Wewentuptothenewtownbyboat,takingthecourseoftheRiverOttawa。WepassedSt。Ann's,butnooneatSt。Ann'sseemedtoknowanythingofthebrotherswhoweretorestthereontheirwearyoars。AtMaxwellstownIcouldhearnothingofAnnieLaurieorofhertrysting-placeonthebraes;andtheturnpikemanatTaracouldtellmenothingofthesiteofthehall,andhadneverevenheardoftheharp。WhenIgodownSouth,Ishallexpecttofindthatthenegromelodieshavenotyetreached“OldVirginie。“ThisboatconveyancefromMontrealtoOttawaisnotallthatcouldbewishedinconvenience,foritisalliedtoocloselywithrailwaytraveling。ThosewhouseitleaveMontrealbyarailway;afterninemiles,theyarechangedintoasteamboat。Thentheyencounteranotherrailway,andatlastreachOttawainasecondsteamboat。

Buttheriverisseen,andabetterideaofthecountryisobtainedthancanbehadsolelyfromtherailwaycars。Thesceneryisbynomeansgrand,norisitstrikinglypicturesque,butitisinitswayinteresting。Foralongportionoftherivertheoldprimevalforestscomedownclosetothewater'sedge,andinthefalloftheyearthebrilliantcoloringisverylovely。Itshouldnotbeimagined,asIthinkitoftenisimagined,thattheseforestsaremadeupofsplendidtrees,orthatsplendidtreesareevencommon。

Whentimbergrowsonundrainedground,andwhenitisuncaredfor,itdoesnotseemtoapproachnearertoitsperfectionthanwheatandgrassdoundersimilarcircumstances。Seenfromalittledistance,thecolorandeffectisgood;butthetreesthemselveshaveshallowroots,andgrowuptall,narrow,andshapeless。Itnecessarilyissowithalltimberthatisnotthinnedinitsgrowth。Whenfineforesttreesarefound,andareleftstandingalonebyanycultivatorwhomayhavetasteenoughtowishforsuchadornment,theyalmostinvariablydie。Theyarerobbedofthesicklyshelterbywhichtheyhavebeensurrounded;thehotsunstrikestheuncoveredfibersoftheroots,andthepoor,solitaryinvalidlanguishes,andatlastdies。

Asoneascendstheriver,whichbyitsbreadthformsitselfintolakes,oneisshownIndianvillagesclusteringdownuponthebank。

SomeyearsagotheseIndianswererich,forthepriceoffurs,inwhichtheydealt,washigh;butfurshavebecomecheaper,andthebeavers,withwhichtheyusedtotrade,arealmostvalueless。Thatachangeinthefashionofhatsshouldhaveassistedtopolishthesepoorfellowsoffthefaceofcreation,must,onemaysuppose,beveryunintelligibletothem;butneverthelessitisprobablyasubjectofdeepspeculation。Ifthereadingworldweretotaketosermonsagainandeschewtheirnovels,Messrs。Thackeray,Dickens,andsomeotherswouldlookaboutthemandinquireintothecausesofsuchachangewithconsiderableacuteness。Theymightnot,perhaps,hitthetruth,andtheseIndiansaremuchinthatpredicament。Itissaidthatveryfewpure-bloodedIndiansarenowtobefoundintheirvillages,butIdoubtwhetherthisisnoterroneous。ThechildrenoftheIndiansarenowfeduponbakedbreadandoncookedmeat,andarebroughtupinhouses。Theyarenursedsomewhatasthechildrenofthewhitemenarenursed;andthesepracticesnodoubthavedonemuchtowardalteringtheirappearance。ThenegroeswhohavebeenbredintheStates,andwhosefathershavebeensobredbeforethem,differbothincolorandformfromtheirbrotherswhohavebeenbornandnurturedinAfrica。

IsaidinthelastchapterthattheCityofOttawawasstilltobebuilt;butImustexplain,lestIshoulddrawdownonmyheadthewrathoftheOttawaites,thattheplacealreadycontainsapopulationof15,000inhabitants。As,however,itisbeingpreparedforfourtimesthatnumber——foreighttimesthatnumber,letushope——andasitstragglesoveravastextentofground,itgivesonetheideaofacityinanactivecourseofpreparation。

InEnglandweknownothingaboutunbuiltcities。Withusfourorfiveblocksofstreetstogetherneverassumethatugly,unfledgedappearancewhichbelongstothehalf-finishedcarcassofahouse,astheydosooftenontheothersideoftheAtlantic。Ottawaispreparingforitselfbroadstreetsandgrandthoroughfares。Thebuildingsalreadyextendoveralengthconsiderablyexceedingtwomiles;andhalfadozenhotelshavebeenopened,which,ifIwerewritingaguide-bookinacomplimentarytone,itwouldbemydutytodescribeasfirstrate。Butthehalfdozenfirst-ratehotels,thoughopen,asyetenjoybutamoderateamountofcustom。Allthisjustifiesme,Ithink,insayingthatthecityhasasyettogetitselfbuilt。ThemannerinwhichthisisbeingdonejustifiesmealsoinsayingthattheOttawaitesaregoingabouttheirtaskwithaworthyzeal。

TomeIconfessthatthenatureofthesituationhasgreatcharms,regardingitasthesiteforatown。Itisnotonaplain;andfromtheformoftherockoverhangingtheriver,andofthehillthatfallsfromthencedowntothewater,ithasbeenfoundimpracticabletolayouttheplaceinright-angledparallelograms。

Aright-angledparallelogramicalcity,suchasarePhiladelphiaandthenewportionofNewYork,isfromitsverynatureodioustome。

Iknowthatmuchmaybesaidinitsfavor——thatdrainageandgas-

pipescomeeasiertosuchashape,andthatgroundcanbebettereconomized。Nevertheless,Ipreferastreetthatisforcedtotwistitselfabout。IenjoythenarrownessofTempleBarandthemisshapencurvatureofPicketStreet。ThedisreputabledinginessofHollowellStreetisdeartome,andIlovetothreadmywayuptheOlympicintoCoventGarden。FifthAvenueinNewYorkisasgrandaspaintandglasscanmakeit;butIwouldnotliveinapalaceinFifthAvenueifthecorporationofthecitywouldpaymybaker'sandbutcher'sbills。

ThetownofOttawaliesbetweentwowaterfalls。Theupperone,orRideauFall,isformedbytheconfluenceofasmallriverwiththelargerone;andthelowerfall——designatedaslowerbecauseitisatthefootofthehill,thoughitishigheruptheOttawaRiver——

iscalledtheChaudiere,fromitsresemblancetoaboilingkettle。

ThisisontheOttawaRiveritself。TheRideauFallisdividedintotwobranches,thusforminganislandinthemiddle,asisthecaseatNiagara。Itisprettyenough,andworthvisitingevenwereitfartherfromthetownthanitis;butbythosewhohavehuntedoutmanycataractsintheirtravelsitwillnotbeconsideredveryremarkable。TheChaudiereFallIdidthinkveryremarkable。Itisoftriflingdepth,beingformedbyfracturesintherockybedoftheriver;butthewatershavesocuttherockastocreatebeautifulformsintherushwhichtheymakeintheirdescent。

Strangersaretoldtolookatthesefallsfromthesuspensionbridge;anditiswellthattheyshoulddoso。But,insolookingatthem,theyobtainbutaverysmallpartoftheireffect。OntheOttawasideofthebridgeisabrewery,whichbreweryissurroundedbyahugetimber-yard。ThistimberyardIfoundtobeverymuddy,andthepassingandrepassingthroughitisaworkoftrouble;butneverthelessletthetravelerbyallmeansmakehiswaythroughthemud,andscrambleoverthetimber,andcrosstheplankbridgeswhichtraversethestreamsofthesaw-mills,andthustakehimselftotheouteredgeofthewood-workoverthewater。Ifhewillthenseathimself,aboutthehourofsunset,hewillseetheChaudiereFallaright。

ButthegloryofOttawawillbe——and,indeed,alreadyis——thesetofpublicbuildingswhichisnowbeingerectedontherockwhichguards,asitwere,thetownfromtheriver。HowmuchoftheexcellenceofthesebuildingsmaybeduetothetasteofSirEdmundHead,thelategovernor,Idonotknow。Thathehasgreatlyinterestedhimselfinthesubject,iswellknown;and,asthestyleofthedifferentbuildingsissomuchalikeastomakeonewhole,thoughthedesignsofdifferentarchitectswereselectedandthesedifferentarchitectsemployed,Iimaginethatconsiderablealterationsmusthavebeenmadeintheoriginaldrawings。Therearethreebuildings,formingthreesidesofaquadrangle;buttheyarenotjoined,thevacantspacesatthecornerbeingofconsiderableextent。Thefourthsideofthequadrangleopensupononeoftheprincipalstreetsofthetown。ThecenterbuildingisintendedfortheHousesofParliament,andthetwosidebuildingsforthegovernmentoffices。OfthefirstMessrs。FullerandJonesarethearchitects,andofthelatterMessrs。StentandLaver。I

didnothavethepleasureofmeetinganyofthesegentlemen;butI

takeuponmyselftosaythat,asregardspurityofartandmanlinessofconception,theirjointworkisentitledtotheveryhighestpraise。Howfarthebuildingsmaybewellarrangedfortherequiredpurposes——howfartheymaybeeconomicalinconstructionorspeciallyadaptedtothesevereclimateofthecountry——Icannotsay;butIhavenohesitationinriskingmyreputationforjudgmentingivingmywarmestcommendationtothemasregardsbeautyofoutlineandtruthfulnobilityofdetail。

Ishallnotattempttodescribethem,forIshouldinterestnooneindoingso,andshouldcertainlyfailinmyattempttomakeanyreaderunderstandme。IknownomodernGothicpurerofitskindorlesssulliedwithfictitiousornamentation。OurownHousesofParliamentareveryfine,butitis,Ibelieve,generallyfeltthattheornamentationistoominute;and,moreover,itmaybequestionedwhetherperpendicularGothiciscapableofthehighestnobilitywhicharchitecturecanachieve。IdonotpretendtosaythattheseCanadianpublicbuildingswillreachthathighestnobility。Theymustbefinishedbeforeanyfinaljudgmentcanbepronounced;butIdofeelverycertainthatthatfinaljudgmentwillbegreatlyintheirfavor。Thetotalfrontageofthequadrangle,includingthesidebuildings,is1200feet;thatofthecenterbuildingsis475。AsIhavesaidbefore,225,000poundshavealreadybeenexpended;anditisestimatedthatthetotalcost,includingthearrangementanddecorationofthegroundbehindthebuildingandinthequadrangle,willbehalfamillion。

Thebuildingsfrontuponwhatwill,Isuppose,betheprincipalstreetofOttawa,andtheystanduponarocklookingimmediatelydownupontheriver。Inthiswaytheyareblessedwithasitepeculiarlyhappy。Indeed,Icannotatthismomentrememberanysomuchso。TheCastleofEdinburghstandsverywell;butthen,likemanyothercastles,itstandsonasummitbyitself,andcanonlybeapproachedbyasteepascent。ThesebuildingsatOttawa,thoughtheylookdownfromagrandeminenceimmediatelyontheriver,areapproachedfromthetownwithoutanyascent。Therock,thoughitfallsalmostprecipitouslydowntothewateriscoveredwithtreesandshrubs;andthentheriverthatrunsbeneathisrapid,bright,andpicturesqueintheirregularityofallitslines。Theviewfromthebackofthelibrary,uptotheChaudiereFallsandtothesaw-millsbywhichtheyaresurrounded,isverylovely。SothatI

willsayagainthatIknownositeforsuchasetofbuildingssohappyasregardsbothbeautyandgrandeur。Itisintendedthatthelibrary,ofwhichthewallswereonlytenfeetabovethegroundwhenIwasthere,shallbeanoctagonalbuilding,inshapeandoutwardcharacterlikethechapterhouseofacathedral。Thisstructurewill,Ipresume,besurroundedbygravelwalksandgreensward。Ofthelibrarythereisalargemodelshowingallthedetailsofthearchitecture;andifthatmodelbeultimatelyfollowed,thisbuildingalonewillbeworthyofavisitfromEnglishtourists。TomeitwasverywonderfultofindsuchanedificeinthecourseoferectiononthebanksofawildriveralmostatthebackofCanada。ButifeverIvisitCanadaagain,itwillbetoseethosebuildingswhencompleted。

Andnow,likeallfriendlycritics,havingbestowedmymodicumofpraise,Imustproceedtofindfault。Icannotbringmyselftoadministermysugar-plumwithoutaddingtoitsomebittermorselbywayofantidote。Thebuildingtotheleftofthequadrangleasitisenteredisdeficientinlength,andonthataccountappearsmeantotheeye。Thetwosidebuildingsarebroughtupclosetothestreet,sothateachhasafrontageimmediatelyonthestreet。

Suchbeingthecase,theyshouldbeofequallength,ornearlyso。

Hadthecenterofonefrontedthecenteroftheother,adifferenceoflengthmighthavebeenallowed;butinthiscasethesidefrontofthesmalleronewouldnothavereachedthestreet。Asitis,thespacebetweenthemainbuildingandthesmallerwingisdisproportionablylarge,andtheverydistanceatwhichitstandswill,Ifear,givetoitthatappearanceofmeannessofwhichI

havespoken。Theclerkoftheworks,whoexplainedtomewithmuchcourtesytheplanofthebuildings,statedthatthedesignofthiswingwascapableofelongation,andhadbeenexpresslypreparedwiththatobject。Ifthisbeso,Itrustthatthedefectwillberemedied。

ThegreattradeofCanadaislumbering;andlumberingconsistsincuttingdownpine-treesupinthefardistantforests,inhewingorsawingthemintoshapeformarket,andgettingthemdowntheriverstoQuebec,fromwhencetheyareexportedtoEurope,andchieflytoEngland。TimberinCanadaiscalledlumber;thoseengagedinthetradearecalledlumberers,andthebusinessitselfiscalledlumbering。Afteralapseoftimeitmustnodoubtbecomemonotonoustothoseengagedinit,andthenameisnotengaging;

butthereismuchaboutitthatisverypicturesque。Asaw-millworkedbywaterpowerisalmostalwaysaprettyobject;andstacksofnew-cuttimberarepleasanttothesmell,andgroupthemselvesnotamissonthewater'sedge。IfIhadthetime,andwereayearortwoyounger,Ishouldlovewelltogouplumberingintothewoods。Themenforthispurposearehiredinthefalloftheyear,andaresentuphundredsofmilesawaytothepineforestsinstronggangs。Everythingistherefoundforthem。Theymakeloghutsfortheirshelter,andfoodofthebestandthestrongestistakenupfortheirdiet。Butnostrongdrinkofanykindisallowed,norisanywithinreachofthemen。Therearenopublics,noshebeenhouses,nogrog-shops。Sobrietyisanenforcedvirtue;

andsomuchisthisconsideredbythemasters,andunderstoodbythemen,thatverylittlecontrabandworkisdoneinthewayoftakingupspiritstothesesettlements。Itmaybesaidthattheworkupintheforestsisdonewiththeassistanceofnostrongerdrinkthantea;anditisveryhardwork。Therecannotbemuchworkthatisharder;anditisdoneamidthesnowsandforestsofaCanadianwinter。AconvictinBermudacannotgetthroughhisdailyeighthoursoflightlaborwithoutanallowanceofrum;butaCanadianlumberercanmanagetodohisdailytaskonteawithoutmilk。Thesemen,however,arebynomeansteetotalers。Whentheycomebacktothetownstheybreakout,andrewardthemselvesfortheirlong-enforcedmoderation。ThewagesIfoundtobeveryvarious,runningfromthirteenorfourteendollarsamonthtotwenty-eightorthirty,accordingtothenatureofthework。Themenwhocutdownthetreesreceivemorethanthosewhohewthemwhendown,andtheseagainmorethantheunderclasswhomaketheroadsandcleartheground。Thesemoneywages,however,areinadditiontotheirdiet。Theoperationrequiringthemostskillisthatofmarkingthetreesfortheaxe。Thelargestonlyareworthcutting,andformandsoundnessmustalsobeconsidered。

ButifIwereabouttovisitapartyoflumberersintheforest,I

shouldnotbedisposedtopassawholewinterwiththem。Evenofaverygoodthingonemayhavetoomuch,Iwouldgoupinthespring,whentheraftsarebeingformedinthesmalltributarystreams,andIwouldcomedownupononeofthem,shootingtherapidsoftheriversassoonasthefirstfreshetshadleftthewayopen。A

freshetintheriversistherushofwatersoccasionedbymeltingsnowandice。Thefirstfreshetstakedownthewinterwatersofthenearerlakesandrivers。Thenthestreamsbecomeforatimenavigable,andtheraftsgodown。Afterthatcomesthesecondfreshet,occasionedbythemeltingoffar-offsnowandiceupinthegreatnorthernlakes,whicharelittleknown。Theseraftsareofimmenseconstruction,suchasthosewhichwehaveseenontheRhoneandRhine,andoftencontaintimbertothevalueoftwo,three,andfourthousandpounds。Attherapidsthelargeraftsare,asitwere,unyoked,anddividedintosmallportions,whichgodownseparately。Theexcitementandmotionofsuchtransitmust,I

shouldsay,beveryjoyous。IwastoldthatthePrinceofWalesdesiredtogodownarapidonaraft,butthatthemeninchargewouldnotundertaketosaythattherewasnopossibledanger;

whereuponthosewhoaccompaniedtheprincerequestedhisRoyalHighnesstoforbear。Ifearthat,inthesecarefuldays,crownedheadsandtheirheirsmustoftenfindthemselvesinthepositionofSanchoatthebanquet。Thesailorprince,whocameafterhisbrother,wasallowedtogodownarapid,andgot,asIwastold,ratheraroughbumpashedidso。

Ottawaisagreatplaceforthesetimberrafts。Indeed,itmay,I

think,becalledtheheadquartersoftimberfortheworld。Nearlyallthebestpine-woodcomesdowntheOttawaanditstributaries。

TheotherriversbywhichtimberisbroughtdowntotheSt。

LawrencearechieflytheSt。Maurice,theMadawaska,andtheSaguenay;buttheOttawaanditstributarieswater75,000squaremiles,whereastheotherthreerivers,withtheirtributaries,wateronly53,000。ThetimberfromtheOttawaandSt。MauricefindsitswaydowntheSt。LawrencetoQuebec,where,however,itlosesthewholeofitspicturesquecharacter。TheSaguenayandtheMadawaskafallintotheSt。LawrencebelowQuebec。

FromOttawawewentbyrailtoPrescott,whichissurelyoneofthemostwretchedlittleplacestobefoundinanycountry。

Immediatelyoppositetoit,ontheothersideoftheSt。Lawrence,isthethrivingtownofOgdensburg。ButOgdensburgisintheUnitedStates。HadwebeenabletolearnatOttawaanyfactsastothehoursoftheriversteamersandrailways,wemighthavesavedtimeandhaveavoidedPrescott;butthiswasoutofthequestion。

HadIaskedtheexacthouratwhichImightreachCalcuttabythequickestroute,anaccuratereplywouldnothavebeenmoreoutofthequestion。Iwasmuchstruck,atPrescott——and,indeed,allthroughCanada,thoughmoreintheupperthaninthelowerprovince——bythesturdyroughness,somewouldcallitinsolence,ofthoseofthelowerclassesofthepeoplewithwhomIwasbroughtintocontact。Ifthewords“lowerclasses“giveoffensetoanyreader,Ibegtoapologize——toapologize,andtoassertthatIamoneofthelastofmentoapplysuchaterminasenseofreproachtothosewhoearntheirbreadbythelaboroftheirhands。Butitishardtofindtermswhichwillbeunderstood;andthatterm,whetheritgiveoffenseorno,willbeunderstood。OfcoursesuchacomplaintasthatInowmakeisverycommonasmadeagainsttheStates。(MenintheStates,withhornedhandsandfustiancoats,areveryoftenmostunnecessarilyinsolentinassertingtheirindependence。WhatInowmeantosayisthatpreciselythesamefaultistobefoundinCanada。Iknowwellwhatthemenmeanwhentheyoffendinthismanner。AndwhenIthinkonthesubjectwithdeliberationatmyowndesk,Icannotonlyexcuse,butalmostapprovethem。Butwhenonepersonallyencountersthiscorduroybraggadocio;whenthemantowhoseservicesoneisentitledanswersonewithdeterminedinsolence;whenoneisbiddentofollow“thatyounglady,“meaningthechambermaid,ordesired,withatossofthehead,towaitforthe“gentlemanwhoiscoming,“meaningtheboots,theheartissickened,andtheEnglishtravelerpinesforthecivility——fortheservility,ifmyAmericanfriendschoosetocallitso——ofawell-orderedservant。Butthewholesceneiseasilyconstrued,andturnedintoEnglish。Amanisaskedbyastrangersomequestionabouthisemployment,andherepliesinatonewhichseemstoimplyanger,insolence,andadishonestintentiontoevadetheserviceforwhichheispaid。Or,iftherebenoquestionofserviceorpayment,theman'smannerwillbethesame,andthestrangerfeelsthatheisslappedinthefaceandinsulted。Thetranslationofitisthis:Themanquestioned,whoisawarethatasregardscoat,hat,boots,andoutwardcleanlinessheisbelowhimbywhomheisquestioned,unconsciouslyfeelshimselfcalledupontoasserthispoliticalequality。Itishisshibboleththatheispoliticallyequaltothebest,thatheisindependent,andthathislabor,thoughitearnhimbutadollaradaybyporterage,placeshimasacitizenonanequalrankwiththemostwealthyfellow-manthatmayemployoraccosthim。But,beingsoinferiorinthatcoat,hat,andbootsmatter,heisforcedtoasserthisequalitybysomeeffort。Asheimprovesinexternals,hewilldiminishtheroughnessofhisclaim。Aslongasthemanmakeshisclaimwithanyroughness,solongdoesheacknowledgewithinhimselfsomefeelingofexternalinferiority。Whenthathasgone——whentheAmericanhaspolishedhimselfupbyeducationandgeneralwell-beingtoafeelingofexternalequalitywithgentlemen,heshows,Ithink,nomoreofthatoutwardbraggadocioofindependencethanaFrenchman。

Buttheblowatthemomentofthestrokeisverygalling。I

confessthatIhaveoccasionallyallbutbrokendownbeneathit。

Butwhenitisthoughtofafterwarditadmitsoffullexcuse。Noeffortthatamancanmakeisbetterthanatrueeffortatindependence。Butthisinsolenceisafalseeffort,itwillbesaid。Itshouldratherbecalledafalseaccompanimenttoalife-

longtrueeffort。Themanprobablyisnotdishonest,doesnotdesiretoshirkanyservicewhichisduefromhim,isnoteveninclinedtoinsolence。Accepthisfirstdeclarationofequalityforthatwhichitisintendedtorepresent,andthemanafterwardwillbefoundobligingandcommunicative。Ifoccasionofferhewillsitdownintheroomwithyou,andwilltalkwithyouonanysubjectthathemaychoose;buthavingonceascertainedthatyoushownoresentmentforthisassertionofequality,hewilldoprettynearlyallthatisasked。HewillatanyratedoasmuchinthatwayasanEnglishman。Isaythusmuchonthissubjectnowespecially,becauseIwasquiteasmuchstruckbythefeelinginCanadaasIwaswithintheStates。

FromPrescottwewentonbytheGrandTrunkRailwaytoToronto,andstayedthereforafewdays。TorontoisthecapitaloftheprovinceofUpperCanada,andIpresumewillinsomedegreeremainso,inspiteofOttawaanditspretensions。Thatis,thelawcourtswillstillbeheldthere。Idonotknowthatitwillenjoyanyothersupremacyunlessitbethatoftradeandpopulation。

SomefewyearsagoTorontowasadvancingwithrapidstrides,andwasbiddingfairtorivalQuebec,orevenperhapsMontreal。

Hamiltonalso,anothertownofUpperCanada,wasgoingaheadinthetrueAmericanstyle;butthenreversescameintrade,andthetownswerecheckedforawhile。Toronto,withaneighboringsuburbwhichisapartofit,asSouthwarkisofLondon,containsnowover50,000inhabitants。Thestreetsareallparallelogramical,andthereisnotasinglecurvaturetoresttheeye。ItisbuiltdowncloseuponLakeOntario;andasitisalsoontheGrandTrunkRailway,ithasalltheaidwhichfacilityoftrafficcangiveit。

ThetwosightsofTorontoaretheOsgoodeHallandtheUniversity。

TheOsgoodeHallistoUpperCanadawhattheFourCourtsaretoIreland。Thelawcourtsareallheldthere。Exteriorly,littlecanbesaidforOsgoodeHall,whereastheexterioroftheFourCourtsinDublinisveryfine;butasaninterior,thetempleofThemisatTorontobeatshollowthatwhichthegoddessownsinDublin。InDublinthecourtsthemselvesareshabby,andthespaceunderthedomeisnotsofineastheexteriorseemstopromisethatitshouldbe。InTorontothecourtsthemselvesare,Ithink,themostcommodiousthatIeversaw,andthepassages,vestibules,andhallareveryhandsome。InUpperCanadathecommon-lawjudgesandthoseinchanceryaredividedastheyareinEngland;butitis,asIwastold,theopinionofCanadianlawyersthattheworkmaybethrowntogether。Appealisallowedincriminalcases;butasfarasIcouldlearnsuchpowerofappealisheldtobebothtroublesomeanduseless。InLowerCanadatheoldFrenchlawsarestilladministered。

ButtheUniversityisthegloryofToronto。ThisisaGothicbuilding,andwilltakerankafter,butnextto,thebuildingsatOttawa。ItwillbethesecondpieceofnoblearchitectureinCanada,andasfarasIknowontheAmericancontinent。Itis,I

believe,intendedtobepurelyNorman,thoughIdoubtwhetherthereceivedtypesofNormanarchitecturehavenotbeendepartedfrominmanyofthewindows。Bethisasitmay,thecollegeisamanly,noblestructure,freefromfalsedecoration,andinfinitelycreditabletothosewhoprojectedit。Iwasinformedbytheheadofthecollegethatithasbeenopenonlytwoyears;andherealsoIfancythatthecolonyhasbeenmuchindebtedtothetasteofthelateGovernor,SirEdmundHead。

Torontoasacityisnotgenerallyattractivetoatraveler。Thecountryarounditisflat;and,thoughitstandsonalake,thatlakehasnoattributesofbeauty。Largeinlandseas,suchasarethesegreatNorthernlakesofAmerica,neverhavesuchattributes。

Picturesquemountainsrisefromnarrowvalleys,suchasformthebedsoflakesinSwitzerland,Scotland,andNorthernItaly;butfromsuchbroadwatersasthoseofLakeOntario,LakeErie,andLakeMichigan,theshoresshelveverygradually,andhavenoneofthematerialsoflovelyscenery。

ThestreetsinTorontoareframedwithwood,orratherplanked,asarethoseofMontrealandQuebec;buttheyarekeptinbetterorder。IshouldsaythattheplanksarefirstusedatToronto,thensentdownbythelaketoMontreal,andwhenallbutrottedoutthere,areagainfloatedoffbytheSt。LawrencetobeusedinthethoroughfaresoftheoldFrenchcapital。ButifthestreetsofTorontoarebetterthanthoseoftheothertowns,theroadsarounditareworse。IhadthehonorofmeetingtwodistinguishedmembersoftheProvincialParliamentatdinnersomefewmilesoutoftown,and,returningbackashortwhileaftertheyhadleftourhost'shouse,wasgladtobeofuseinpickingthemupfromaditchintowhichtheircarriagehadbeenupset。Tomeitappearedallbutmiraculousthatanycarriageshouldmakeitswayoverthatroadwithoutsuchmisadventure。Imayperhapsbeallowedtohopethatthediscomfitureoftheseworthylegislatorsmayleadtosomeimprovementinthethoroughfare。

IhadonapreviousoccasiongonedowntheSt。Lawrence,throughtheThousandIslesandovertheRapids,inoneofthoselargesummersteamboatswhichplyuponthelakeandriver。IcannotsaythatIwasmuchstruckbythescenery,andthereforedidnotencroachuponmytimebymakingthejourneyagain。SuchanopinionwillberegardedasheresybymanywhothinkmuchoftheThousandIslands。Idonotbelievethattheywouldbeexpresslynotedbyanytravelerwhowasnotexpresslybiddentoadmirethem。

FromTorontowewentacrosstoNiagara,re-enteringtheStatesatLewiston,inNewYork。

CHAPTERVI。

THECONNECTIONOFTHECANADASWITHGREATBRITAIN。

WhentheAmericanwarbegantroopsweresentouttoCanada,andwhenIwasintheprovincesmoretroopswerethenexpected。Thematterwasmuchtalkedof,asamatterofcourse,inCanada,andithadbeendiscussedinEnglandbeforeIleft。IhadseenmuchsaidaboutitintheEnglishpaperssince,anditalsohadbecomethesubjectofveryhotquestionamongthepoliticiansoftheNorthernStates。ThemeasurehadatthattimegivenmoreumbragetotheNorththananythingelsedoneorsaidbyEnglandfromthebeginningofthewaruptothattime,exceptthedeclarationmadebyLordJohnRussellintheHouseofCommonsastotheneutralitytobepreservedbyEnglandbetweenthetwobelligerents。TheargumentusedbytheNorthernStateswasthis:ifFrancecollectsmenandmaterialofwarintheneighborhoodofEngland,Englandconsidersherselfinjured,callsforanexplanation,andtalksofinvasion。

Therefore,asEnglandisnowcollectingmenandmaterialofwarinourneighborhood,wewillconsiderourselvesinjured。Itdoesnotsuitustoaskforanexplanation,becauseitisnotourhabittointerferewithothernations。Wewillnotpretendtosaythatwethinkwearetobeinvaded。Butasweclearlyareinjured,wewillexpressourangeratthatinjury,andwhentheopportunityshallcomewilltakeadvantageofhavingthatnewgrievance。

Asweallknow,averylargeincreaseofforcewassentwhenwewerestillindoubtastotheterminationoftheTrentaffair,andimaginedthatwarwasimminent。ButthesendingofthatlargeforcedidnotangertheAmericansasthefirstdispatchoftroopstoCanadahadangeredthem。Thingshadsoturnedoutthatmeasuresofmilitaryprecautionwereacknowledgedbythemtobenecessary。

Icannot,however,butthinkthatMr。SewardmighthavesparedthatoffertosendBritishtroopsacrossMaine,andsoalsohaveallhiscountrymenthoughtbywhomIhaveheardthematterdiscussed。

AstoanyattemptatinvasionofCanadabytheAmericans,orideaofpunishingtheallegedinjuriessufferedbytheStatesfromGreatBritainbytheannexationofthoseprovinces,Idonotbelievethatanysane-mindedcitizensoftheStatesbelieveinthepossibilityofsuchretaliation。SomeyearssincetheAmericansthoughtthatCanadamightshineintheUnionfirmamentasanewstar;butthatdelusionis,Ithink,over。Suchannexation,ifevermade,musthavebeenmadenotonlyagainstthearmsofEngland,butmustalsohavebeenmadeinaccordancewiththewishesofthepeoplesoannexed。ItwasthenbelievedthattheCanadianswerenotaversetosuchachange,andtheremaypossiblyhavethenbeenamongthemtheremnantofsuchawish。Thereiscertainlynosuchdesirenow,notevenaremnantofsuchadesire;andthetruthonthismatteris,Ithink,generallyacknowledged。ThefeelinginCanadaisoneofstrongaversiontotheUnitedStatesgovernmentandofpredilectionforself-governmentundertheEnglishCrown。A

faineantgovernorandtheprestigeofBritishpowerisnowthepoliticalaspirationoftheCanadiansingeneral;andIthinkthatthisisunderstoodintheStates。Moreover,theStateshaveajobofworkonhandwhich,astheythemselvesarewellaware,istaxingalltheirenergies。Suchbeingthecase,IdonotthinkthatEnglandneedstofearanyinvasionofCanadaauthorizedbytheStatesgovernment。

ThisfeelingofagrievanceonthepartoftheStateswasamanifestabsurdity。ThenewreinforcementofthegarrisonsinCanadadidnot,whenIwasinCanada,amount,asIbelieve,tomorethan2000men。Buthaditamountedto20,000,theStateswouldhavehadnojustgroundforcomplaint。Ofallnationalitiesthatinmoderndayshaverisentopower,they,aboveallothers,haveshownthattheywoulddowhattheylikedwiththeirown,indifferenttoforeigncounselsanddeaftoforeignremonstrance。

“Doyougoyourway,andletusgoours。Wewilltroubleyouwithnoquestion,nordoyoutroubleus。“Suchhasbeentheirnationalpolicy,andithasobtainedforthemgreatrespect。Theyhaveresistedthetemptationofputtingtheirfingersintothecaldronofforeignpolicy;andforeignpoliticians,acknowledgingtheirreserveinthisrespect,havenotbeenoffendedatthebristleswithwhichtheirNolimetangerehasbeenproclaimed。Theirintelligencehasbeenappreciated,andtheirconducthasbeenrespected。Butifthishasbeentheirlineofpolicy,theymustbeentirelyoutofcourtinraisinganyquestionastothepositionofBritishtroopsonBritishsoil。

“Itshowsusthatyoudoubtus,“anAmericansays,withanairofinjuredhonor——ordidsay,beforethatTrentaffair。“AnditisdonetoexpresssympathywiththeSouth。TheSouthernersunderstandit,andweunderstanditalso。Weknowwhereyourheartsare——nay,yourverysouls。Theyareamongtheslave-

begottencottonbalesoftherebelSouth。“ThencomesthewholeofthelongargumentinwhichitseemssoeasytoanEnglishmantoprovethatEngland,inthewholeofthissadmatter,hasbeentrueandloyaltoherfriend。Shecouldnotinterferewhenthehusbandandwifewouldquarrel。Shecouldonlygrieve,andwishthatthingsmightcomerightandsmoothforbothparties。Buttheargument,thoughsoeasy,isnevereffectual。

ItseemstomefoolishinanAmericantoquarrelwithEnglandforsendingsoldierstoCanada;butIcannotsaythatIthoughtitwaswelldonetosendthematthebeginningofthewar。TheEnglishgovernmentdidnot,Ipresume,takethisstepwithreferencetoanypossibleinvasionofCanadabythegovernmentoftheStates。WearefortifyingPortsmouth,andPortland,andPlymouth,becausewewouldfainbesafeagainsttheFrencharmyactingunderaFrenchEmperor。Butwesent2000troopstoCanada,ifIunderstandthematterrightly,toguardourprovincesagainstthefilibusteringenergiesofamassofunemployedAmericansoldiers,whenthosesoldiersshouldcometobedisbanded。Whenthiswarshallbeover——

awarduringwhichnotmuch,ifany,underamillionofAmericancitizenswillhavebeenunderarms——itwillnotbeeasyforallwhosurvivetoreturntotheiroldhomesandoldoccupations。Nordoesadisbandedsoldieralwaysmakeagoodhusbandman,notwithstandingthegreatexamplesofCincinnatusandBird-o'-freedomSawin。Itmaybethataconsiderableamountoffilibusteringenergywillbeafloat,andthatthethengovernmentofthosewhoneighborusinCanadawillhaveothermattersinhandmoreimportanttothemthanthecontrollingoftheseunrulyspirits。That,asItakeit,wastheevilagainstwhichweofGreatBritainandofCanadadesiredtoguardourselves。

ButIdoubtwhether2000or10,000Britishsoldierswouldbeanyeffectiveguardagainstsuchinroads,andIdoubtmorestronglywhetheranysuchexternalguardingwillbenecessary。IftheCanadianswerepreparedtofraternizewithfilibustersfromtheStates,neitherthreenortenthousandsoldierswouldavailagainstsuchafeelingoverafrontierstretchingfromtheStateofMainetotheshoresofLakeHuronandLakeErie。Ifsuchafeelingdidexist——iftheCanadianswishedthechange——inGod'snameletthemgo。Itisfortheirsakes,andnotforourown,thatwewouldhavethemboundtous。ButtheCanadiansareaversetosuchachangewithadegreeoffeelingthatamountstonationalintensity。TheirsympathiesarewiththeSouthernStates,notbecausetheycareforcotton,notbecausetheyareanti-abolitionists,notbecausetheyadmiretheheartypluckofthosewhoareendeavoringtoworkoutforthemselvesanewrevolution。TheysympathizewiththeSouthfromstrongdisliketotheaggression,thebraggadocio,andtheinsolencetheyhavefeltupontheirownborders。TheydislikeMr。

Seward'sweakandvulgarjokewiththeDukeofNewcastle。TheydislikeMr。Everett'sflatteringhintstohiscountrymenastotheonenationthatistooccupythewholecontinent。TheydisliketheMonroedoctrine。TheywonderatthemeeknesswithwhichEnglandhasenduredthevauntingsoftheNorthernStates,andareenduedwithnosuchmeeknessoftheirown。Theywould,Ibelieve,bewellpreparedtomeetandgiveanaccountofanyfilibusterswhomightvisitthem;andIamnotsurethatitiswiselydoneonourparttoshowanyintentionoftakingtheworkoutoftheirhands。

ButIamledtothisopinioninnodegreebyafeelingthatGreatBritainoughttogrudgethecostofthesoldiers。IfCanadawillbesaferwiththem,inHeaven'snameletherhavethem。Ithasbeenarguedinmanyplaces,notonlywithregardtoCanada,butastoallourself-governedcolonies,thatmilitaryserviceshouldnotbegivenatBritishexpenseandwithBritishmentoanycolonywhichhasitsownrepresentativegovernmentandwhichleviesitsowntaxes。“WhileGreatBritainabsolutelyheldthereinsofgovernment,anddidasitpleasedwiththeaffairsofitsdependencies,“suchpoliticianssay,“itwasjustandrightthatsheshouldpaythebill。Aslongashergovernmentofacolonywaspaternal,solongwasitrightthatthemothercountryshouldputherselfintheplaceofafather,andenjoyafather'sundoubtedprerogativeofputtinghishandintohisbreechespockettoprovideforallthewantsofhischild。Butwhentheadultsonsetupforhimselfinbusiness——havingreceivededucationfromtheparent,andhavinghadhisapprenticefeesdulypaid——thenthatsonshouldsettlehisownbills,andlooknolongertothepaternalpocket。“

Suchisthelawoftheworldallover,fromlittlebirds,whoseyoungflyawaywhenfledged,upwardtomenandnations。Letthefatherworkforthechildwhileheisachild;butwhenthechildhasbecomeaman,lethimleannolongeronhisfather'sstaff。

Theargumentis,Ithink,verygood;butitprovesnotthatwearerelievedfromthenecessityofassistingourcolonieswithpaymentsmadeoutofBritishtaxes,butthatwearestillboundtogivesuchassistance,andthatweshallcontinuetobesoboundaslongasweallowthesecoloniestoadheretousorastheyallowustoadheretothem。Infact,theyoungbirdisnotyetfullyfledged。Thatillustrationofthefatherandthechildisajustone,butinordertomakeitjustitshouldbefollowedthroughout。Whenthesonisinfactestablishedonhisownbottom,thenthefatherexpectsthathewilllivewithoutassistance。Butwhenthesondoessolive,heisfreedfromallpaternalcontrol。Thefather,whileheexpectstobeobeyed,continuestofillthepaternalofficeofpaymaster——ofpaymaster,atanyrate,tosomeextent。

Andso,Ithink,itmustbewithourcolonies。TheCanadasatpresentarenotindependent,andhavenotpoliticalpoweroftheirownapartfromthepoliticalpowerofGreatBritain。EnglandhasdeclaredherselfneutralasregardstheNorthernandSouthernStates,andbythatneutralitytheCanadasarebound;andyettheCanadaswerenotconsultedinthematter。ShouldEnglandgotowarwithFrance,CanadamustcloseherportsagainstFrenchvessels。

IfEnglandchoosestosendhertroopstoCanadianbarracks,Canadacannotrefusetoacceptthem。IfEnglandshouldsendtoCanadaanunpopulargovernor,Canadahasnopowertorejecthisservices。AslongasCanadaisacolonysocalled,shecannotbeindependent,andshouldnotbeexpectedtowalkalone。ItisexactlythesamewiththecoloniesofAustralia,withNewZealand,withtheCapeofGoodHope,andwithJamaica。WhileEnglandenjoystheprestigeofhercolonies,whilesheboaststhatsuchlargeandnowpopulousterritoriesareherdependencies,shemustandshouldbecontenttopaysomeportionofthebill。SurelyitisabsurdonourparttoquarrelwithCaffrewarfare,withNewZealandfighting,andtherestofit。Suchcomplaintsremindoneofanancientpaterfamiliaswhoinsistsonhavinghischildrenandhisgrandchildrenundertheoldpaternalroof,andthengrumblesbecausethebutcher'sbillishigh。Thosewhowillkeeplargehouseholdsandbountifultablesshouldnotbeafraidoffacingthebutcher'sbillorunhappyatthetonnageofthecoal。Itisagrandthing,thatpowerofkeepingalargetable;butitceasestobegrandwhentheitemsheapeduponitcauseinwardgroansandoutwardmoodiness。

Whyshouldthecoloniesremaintruetousaschildrenaretruetotheirparents,ifwegrudgethemtheassistancewhichisduetoachild?Theyraisetheirowntaxes,itissaid,andadministerthem。True;anditiswellthatthegrowingsonshoulddosomethingforhimself。Whilethefatherdoesallforhim,theson'slaborbelongstothefather。Thencomesamiddlestateinwhichthesondoesmuchforhimself,butnotall。Inthatmiddlestatenowstandourprosperouscolonies。Thencomesthetimewhenthesonshallstandalonebyhisownstrength;andtothatperiodofmanly,self-respectedstrengthletusallhopethatthosecoloniesareadvancing。Itisveryhardforamothercountrytoknowwhensuchatimehascome;andhardalsoforthechild-colonytorecognizejustlytheperiodofitsownmaturity。Whetherornosuchseverancemayevertakeplacewithoutaquarrel,withoutweaknessononesideandprideontheother,isaproblemintheworld'shistoryyettobesolved。Themostsuccessfulchildthateveryethasgoneofffromasuccessfulparent,andtakenitsownpathintotheworld,iswithoutdoubtthenationoftheUnitedStates。Theirpresenttroublesaretheresultandtheproofsoftheirsuccess。Thepeoplethatweretoogreattobedependentonanynationhavenowspreadtilltheyarethemselvestoogreatforasinglenationality。Noonenowthinksthatthatdaughtershouldhaveremainedlongersubjecttohermother。Buttheseverancewasnotmadeinamity,andtheshrillnotesoftheoldfamilyquarrelarestillsometimesheardacrossthewaters。

FromallthisthequestionariseswhetherthatproblemmayeverbesolvedwithreferencetotheCanadas。ThatitwillneverbetheirdestinytojointhemselvestotheStatesoftheUnion,Ifeelfullyconvinced。InthefirstplaceitisbecomingevidentfromthepresentcircumstancesoftheUnion,ifithadneverbeenmadeevidentbyhistorybefore,thatdifferentpeoplewithdifferenthabits,livingatlongdistancesfromeachother,cannotwellbebroughttogetheronequaltermsunderonegovernment。ThatnobleambitionoftheAmericansthatallthecontinentnorthoftheisthmusshouldbeunitedunderoneflag,hasalreadybeenthrownfromitssaddle。TheNorthandSoutharevirtuallyseparated,andthedaywillcomeinwhichtheWestalsowillsecede。Aspopulationincreasesandtradesarisepeculiartothosedifferentclimates,theinterestsofthepeoplewilldiffer,andanewsecessionwilltakeplacebeneficialaliketobothparties。Ifthisbeso,ifeventherebeanytendencythisway,itaffordsthestrongestargumentagainsttheprobabilityofanyfutureannexationoftheCanadas。Andthen,inthesecondplace,thefeelingofCanadaisnotAmerican,butBritish。IfevershebeseparatedfromGreatBritain,shewillbeseparatedastheStateswereseparated。

Shewilldesiretostandalone,andtoenterherselfasoneamongthenationsoftheearth。

Shewilldesiretostandalone;alone,thatiswithoutdependenceeitheronEnglandorontheStates。ButsheissocircumstancedgeographicallythatshecanneverstandalonewithoutamalgamationwithourotherNorthAmericanprovinces。ShehasanoutlettotheseaattheGulfofSt。Lawrence,butitisonlyasummeroutlet。

HerwinteroutletisbyrailwaythroughtheStates,andnootherwinteroutletispossibleforherexceptthroughthesisterprovinces。BeforeCanadacanbenationallygreat,thelineofrailwaywhichnowrunsforsomehundredmilesbelowQuebectoRiviereduLoupmustbecontinuedonthroughNewBrunswickandNovaScotiatotheportofHalifax。

WhenIwasinCanadaIheardthequestiondiscussedofafederalgovernmentbetweentheprovincesofthetwoCanadas,NewBrunswick,andNovaScotia。Tothesewereadded,ornotadded,accordingtotheopinionofthosewhospoke,thesmalleroutlyingcoloniesofNewfoundlandandPrinceEdward'sIsland。IfaschemeforsuchagovernmentwereprojectedinDowningStreet,allwouldnodoubtbeincluded,andacleansweepwouldbemadewithoutdifficulty。Buttheprojectasmadeinthecoloniesappearsindifferentguises,asitcomeseitherfromCanadaorfromoneoftheotherprovinces。

TheCanadianideawouldbethatthetwoCanadasshouldformtwoStatesofsuchaconfederation,andtheotherprovincesathirdState。ButthisslightparticipationinpowerwouldhardlysuittheviewsofNewBrunswickandNovaScotia。Inspeakingofsuchafederalgovernmentasthis,IshallofcoursebeunderstoodasmeaningaconfederationactinginconnectionwithaBritishgovernor,anddependentuponGreatBritainasfarasthedifferentcoloniesarenowdependent。

IcannotbutthinkthatsuchaconfederationmightbeformedwithgreatadvantagetoallthecoloniesandtoGreatBritain。AtpresenttheCanadasareineffectalmostmoredistantfromNovaScotiaandNewBrunswickthantheyarefromEngland。Theintercoursebetweenthemisveryslight——soslightthatitmayalmostbesaidthatthereisnointercourse。Afewmenofscienceorofpoliticalimportancemayfromtimetotimemaketheirwayfromonecolonyintotheother,buteventhisisnotcommon。

Beyondthattheyseldomseeeachother。ThoughNewBrunswickbordersbothwithLowerCanadaandwithNovaScotia,thusmakingonewholeofthethreecolonies,thereisneitherrailroadnorstageconveyancerunningfromonetotheother。Andyettheirinterestsshouldbesimilar。Fromgeographicalpositiontheirmodesoflifemustbealike,andacloseconjunctionbetweenthemisessentiallynecessarytogiveBritishNorthAmericaanypoliticalimportanceintheworld。Therecanbenosuchconjunction,noamalgamationofinterests,untilarailwayshallhavebeenmadejoiningtheCanadaGrandTrunkLinewiththetwooutlyingcolonies。UpperCanadacanfeedallEnglandwithwheat,andcoulddosowithoutanyaidofrailwaythroughtheStates,ifarailwayweremadefromQuebectoHalifax。Butthencomesthequestionofthecost。TheCanadaGrandTrunkisatthepresentmomentatthelowestebbofcommercialmisfortune,andwithsuchafactpatenttotheworld,whatcompanywillcomeforwardwithfundsformakingfourorfivehundredmilesofrailway,throughadistrictofwhichone-halfisnotyetpreparedforpopulation?Itwouldbe,Iimagine,outofthequestionthatsuchaspeculationshouldformanyyearsgiveanyfaircommercialinterestonthemoneytobeexpended。Butneverthelesstothecolonies——thatis,totheenormousregionsofBritishNorthAmerica——sucharailroadwouldbeinvaluable。UndersuchcircumstancesitisfortheHomeGovernmentandthecoloniesbetweenthemtoseehowsuchameasuremaybecarriedout。Asanationalexpenditure,tobedefrayedinthecourseofyearsbytheterritoriesinterested,thesumofmoneyrequiredwouldbeverysmall。

ButhowwouldthisaffectEngland?AndhowwouldEnglandbeaffectedbyaunionoftheBritishNorthAmericancoloniesunderonefederalgovernment?Beforethisquestioncanbeanswered,hewhopreparestoansweritmustconsiderwhatinterestEnglandhasinhercolonies,andforwhatpurposesheholdsthem。Doessheholdthemforprofit,orforglory,orforpower;ordoessheholdtheminorderthatshemaycarryoutthedutywhichhasdevolveduponherofextendingcivilization,freedom,andwell-beingthroughthenewuprisingnationsoftheworld?Doessheholdthem,infact,forherownbenefit,ordoessheholdthemfortheirs?I

knownothingoftheethicsoftheColonialOffice,andnotmuchperhapsofthoseoftheHouseofCommons;butlookingatwhatGreatBritainhashithertodoneinthewayofcolonization,Icannotbutthinkthatthenationalambitionlookstothewelfareofthecolonists,andnottohomeaggrandizement。Thatthetwomayruntogetherismostprobable。Indeed,therecanbenoglorytoapeoplesogreatorsoreadilyrecognizedbymankindatlargeasthatofspreadingcivilizationfromeasttowestandfromnorthtosouth。Buttheoneobjectshouldbetheprosperityofthecolonists,andnotprofit,norglory,norevenpower,totheparentcountry。

Thereisnovirtueofwhichmorehasbeensaidandsungthanpatriotism,andnonewhich,whenpureandtrue,hasledtofinerresults。Dulceetdecorumestpropatriamori。Toliveforone'scountryalsoisaverybeautifulandproperthing。Butifweexaminecloselymuchpatriotism,thatissocalled,weshallfinditgoinghandinhandwithagooddealthatisselfish,andwithnotalittlethatisdevilish。ItwassomefinefuryofpatrioticfeelingwhichenabledthenationalpoettoputintothemouthofeveryEnglishmanthathorribleprayerwithregardtoourenemieswhichwesingwhenwewishtodohonortooursovereign。Itdidnotseemtohimthatitmightbewelltopraythattheirheartsshouldbesoftened,andourownheartssoftenedalso。Nationalsuccesswasallthatapatrioticpoetcoulddesire,andthereforeinournationalhymnhavewegoneonimploringtheLordtoariseandscatterourenemies;toconfoundtheirpolitics,whethertheybegoodorill;andtoexposetheirknavishtricks——suchknavishtricksbeingtakenforgranted。Andthen,withasteadyconfidence,weusedtodeclarehowcertainwewerethatweshouldachieveallthatwasdesirable,notexactlybytrustingtoourprayertoheaven,butbyrelyingalmostexclusivelyonGeorgetheThirdorGeorgetheFourth。NowIhavealwaysthoughtthatthatwasratherapoorpatriotism。Luckilyforus,ournationalconducthasnotsquareditselfwithournationalanthem。Anypatriotismmustbepoorwhichdesiresglory,orevenprofit,forafewattheexpenseofthemany,eventhoughthefewbebrothersandthemanyaliens。Asarule,patriotismisavirtueonlybecauseman'saptitudeforgoodissofinitethathecannotseeandcomprehendawiderhumanity。HecanhardlybringhimselftounderstandthatsalvationshouldbeextendedtoJewandGentilealike。Thewordphilanthropyhasbecomeodious,andIwouldfainnotuseit;butthethingitselfisasmuchhigherthanpatriotismasheavenisabovetheearth。

AwishthatBritishNorthAmericashouldeverbeseveredfromEngland,orthattheAustraliancoloniesshouldeverbesosevered,willbymanyEnglishmenbedeemedunpatriotic。ButIthinkthatsuchseveranceistobewishedifitbethecasethatthecoloniesstandingalonewouldbecomemoreprosperousthantheyareunderBritishrule。WehavebeforeusanexampleintheUnitedStatesoftheprosperitywhichhasattendedsucharuptureofoldties。I

willnotnowcontestthepointwiththosewhosaythatthepresentmomentofanAmericancivilwarisillchosenforvauntingthatprosperity。Therestandthecitieswhichthepeoplehavebuilt,andtheirpowerisattestedbytheworld-wideimportanceoftheirpresentcontest。AndiftheStateshavesorisensincetheylefttheirparent'sapron-string,whyshouldnotBritishNorthAmericariseashigh?ThatthetimehasasyetcomeforsuchrisingIdonotthink;butthatitwillsooncomeIdomostheartilyhope。ThemakingoftherailwayofwhichIhavespoken,andtheamalgamationoftheprovinceswouldgreatlytendtosuchanevent。Iftherefore,Englanddesirestokeepthesecoloniesinastateofdependency;ifitbemoreessentialtohertomaintainherownpowerwithregardtothemthantoincreasetheirinfluence;ifhermainobjectbetokeepthecoloniesandnottoimprovethecolonies,thenIshouldsaythatanamalgamationoftheCanadaswithNovaScotiaandNewBrunswickshouldnotberegardedwithfavorbystatesmeninDowningStreet。Butif,asIwouldfainhope,anddopartlybelieve,suchideasofnationalpowerasthesearenowoutofvoguewithBritishstatesmen,thenIthinkthatsuchanamalgamationshouldreceiveallthesupportwhichDowningStreetcangiveit。

TheUnitedStatesseveredthemselvesfromGreatBritainwithagreatstruggle,andafterheart-burningsandbloodshed。WhetherGreatBritainwilleverallowanycolonyofherstodepartfromoutofhernest,tosecedeandstartforherself,withoutanystruggleorheart-burnings,withallfurtheranceforsuchpurposewhichanoldandpowerfulcountrycangivetoanewnationalitythenfirsttakingitsownplaceintheworld'sarena,isaproblemyettobesolved。Thereis,Ithink,nomorebeautifulsightthanthatofamother,stillinallthegloryofwomanhood,preparingtheweddingtrousseauforherdaughter。Thechildhithertohasbeenobedientandsubmissive。Shehasbeenoneofahouseholdinwhichshehasheldnocommand。Shehassatattableasachild,fittingherselfinallthingstothebehestsofothers。Butthedayofherpowerandherglory,andalsoofhercaresandsolicitude,isathand。

Sheistogoforth,anddoasshebestmayintheworldunderthatteachingwhichheroldhomehasgivenher。Thehourofseparationhascome;andthemother,smilingthroughhertears,sendsherforthdeckedwithabounteoushand,andfurnishedwithfullstores,sothatallmaybewellwithherassheentersonhernewduties。

SoisitthatEnglandshouldsendforthherdaughters。Theyshouldnotescapefromherarmswithshrillscreamsandbleedingwounds,withill-omenedwordswhichlivesolong,thoughthespeakersofthemliecoldintheirgraves。

Butthissendingforthofachild-nationtotakeitsownpoliticalstatusintheworldhasneveryetbeendonebyGreatBritain。I

cannotrememberthatsuchhaseverbeendonebyanygreatpowerwithreferencetoitsdependency;byanypowerthatwaspowerfulenoughtokeepsuchdependencywithinitsgrasp。Butamanthinkingonthesematterscannotbuthopethatatimewillcomewhensuchamicableseverancemaybeeffected。GreatBritaincannotthinkthatthroughallcomingagessheistobethemistressofthevastcontinentofAustralia,lyingontheothersideoftheglobe'ssurface;thatsheistobethemistressofallSouthAfrica,ascivilizationshallextendnorthward;thattheenormousterritoriesofBritishNorthAmericaaretobesubjectforevertoavetofromDowningStreet。Ifthehistoryofpastempiresdoesnotteachherthatthismaynotbeso,atleastthehistoryoftheUnitedStatesmightsoteachher。“ButwehavelearnedalessonfromthoseUnitedStates,“thepatriotwillarguewhodarestohopethatthegloryandextentoftheBritishempiremayremainunimpairedinsaeculasaeculorum。“Sincethatdaywehavegivenpoliticalrightstoourcolonies,andhavesatisfiedthepoliticallongingsoftheirinhabitants。Wedonottaxtheirteaandstamps,butleaveittothemtotaxthemselvesastheymayplease。“True。Butinpoliticalaspirationsthegivingofaninchhasevercreatedthedesireforanell。IftheAustraliancoloniesevennow,withtheirscantypopulationandstillyoungcivilization,chafeagainstimperialinterference,willtheysubmittoitwhentheyfeelwithintheirveinsallthefullbloodofpoliticalmanhood?WhatisthecryevenoftheCanadians——oftheCanadianswhoarethoroughlyloyaltoEngland?Sendusafaineantgovernor,aKingLog,whowillnotpresumetointerferewithus;agovernorwhowillspendhismoneyandlivelikeagentleman,andcarelittleornothingforpolitics。ThatistheCanadianbeauidealofagovernor。Theyaretogovernthemselves;andhewhocomestothemfromEnglandistositamongthemasthesilentrepresentativeofEngland'sprotection。Ifthatbetrue——andIdonotthinkthatanywhoknowtheCanadaswilldenyit——mustitnotbepresumedthattheywillsoonalsodesireafaineantministerinDowningStreet?Ofcoursetheywillsodesire。Mendonotbecomemilderintheiraspirationsforpoliticalpowerthemorethatpoliticalpowerisextendedtothem。Norwoulditbewellthattheyshouldbesohumbleintheirdesires。Nationsdevoidofpoliticalpowerhaveneverrisenhighintheworld'sesteem。Evenwhentheyhavebeencommerciallysuccessful,commercehasnotbroughttothemthegreatnesswhichithasalwaysgivenwhenjoinedwithastrongpoliticalexistence。

TheGreeksarecommerciallyrichandactive;but“Greece“and“Greek“arebywordsnowforallthatismean。Cubaisacolony,andputtingasidethecitiesoftheStates,theHavanaistherichesttownontheothersideoftheAtlantic,andcommerciallythegreatest;butthepoliticalvillainyofCuba,herdailyimportationofslaves,herbreachesoftreaty,andthebriberyofherallbutroyalgovernor,areknowntoallmen。ButCanadaisnotdishonest;Canadaisnobywordforanythingevil;Canadaeatsherownbreadinthesweatofherbrow,andfearsabadwordfromnoman。True。ButwhydoesNewYork,withitssuburbsboastamillionofinhabitants,whileMontrealhas85,000?Whyhasthatbabeinyears,Chicago,120,000,whileTorontohasnothalfthenumber?IdonotsaythatMontrealandTorontoshouldhavegoneaheadabreastwithNewYorkandChicago。Insuchracesonemustbefirst,andonelast。ButIdosaythattheCanadiantownswillhavenoequalchancetilltheyareactuatedbythatfeelingofpoliticalindependencewhichhascreatedthegrowthofthetownsintheUnitedStates。

IdonotthinkthatthetimehasyetcomeinwhichGreatBritainshoulddesiretheCanadianstostartforthemselves。Thereisthemakingofthatrailroadtobeeffected,andsomethingdonetowardtheunionofthoseprovinces。CanadacouldnomorestandalonewithoutNewBrunswickandNovaScotia,thancouldthoselattercolonieswithoutCanada。ButIthinkitwouldbewelltobepreparedforsuchacomingday;andthatitwouldatanyratebewelltobringhometoourselvesandrealizetheideaofsuchsecessiononthepartofourcolonies,whenthetimeshallhavecomeatwhichsuchsecessionmaybecarriedoutwithprofitandsecuritytothem。GreatBritain,shouldsheeversendforthherchildaloneintotheworld,mustofcourseguaranteehersecurity。

Suchguaranteesaregivenbytreaties;and,inthewordingofthem,itispresumedthatsuchtreatieswilllastforever。ItwillbearguedthatinstartingBritishNorthAmericaasapoliticalpoweronitsownbottom,weshouldbindourselftoalltheexpenseofitsdefense,whileweshouldgiveupallrighttoanyinterferenceinitsconcerns;andthat,fromastateofthingssounprofitableasthis,therewouldbenoprospectofadeliverance。Butsuchtreaties,letthembewordedhowtheywill,donotlastforever。

Foratime,nodoubt,GreatBritainwouldbesohampered——ifindeedshewouldfeelherselfhamperedbyextendinghernameandprestigetoacountryboundtoherbytiessuchasthosewhichwouldthenexistbetweenherandthisnewnation。Suchtreatiesarenoteverlasting,norcantheybemadetolastevenforages。Thosewhowordthemseemtothinkthatpowersanddynastieswillneverpassaway。Buttheydopassaway,andthebalanceofpowerwillnotkeepitselffixedforeveronthesamepivot。Thetimemaycome——

thatitmaynotcomesoonwewillalldesire——butthetimemaycomewhenthenameandprestigeofwhatwecallBritishNorthAmericawillbeasserviceabletoGreatBritainasthoseofGreatBritainarenowserviceabletohercolonies。

Butwhatshallbethenewformofgovernmentforthenewkingdom?

Thatisaspeculationveryinterestingtoapolitician,thoughonewhichtofollowoutatgreatlengthintheseearlydayswouldberatherpremature。Thatitshouldbeakingdom——thatthepoliticalarrangementshouldbeoneofwhichacrownedhereditarykingshouldformpart——nineteenoutofeverytwentyEnglishmenwoulddesire;

and,asIfancy,sowouldalsonineteenoutofeverytwentyCanadians。AkingfortheUnitedStates,whentheyfirstestablishedthemselves,wasimpossible。AtotalrupturefromtheOldWorldandallitshabitswasnecessaryforthem。Thenameofaking,ormonarch,orsovereignhadbecomehorribletotheirears。

Eventothisdaytheyhavenotlearnedthedifferencebetweenarbitrarypowerretainedinthehandofoneman,suchasthatnowheldbytheEmperorovertheFrench,andsuchhereditaryheadshipintheStateasthatwhichbelongstotheCrowninGreatBritain。

Andthiswasnecessary,seeingthattheirdivisionfromuswaseffectedbystrife,andcarriedoutwithwarandbitteranimosities。Inthosedaysalsotherewasaremnant,thoughbutasmallremnant,ofthepoweroftyrannyleftwithinthescopeoftheBritishCrown。Thatsmallremnanthasbeenremoved;andtomeitseemsthatnoformofexistinggovernment,noformofgovernmentthateverdidexist,givesorhasgivensolargeameasureofindividualfreedomtoallwholiveunderitasaconstitutionalmonarchyinwhichtheCrownisdivestedofdirectpoliticalpower。

Iwillventurethentosuggestakingforthisnewnation;and,seeingthatwearerichinprinces,thereneedbenodifficultyintheselection。Woulditnotbebeautifultoseeanewnationestablishedundersuchauspices,andtoestablishapeopletowhomtheirindependencehadbeengiven,towhomithadbeenfreelysurrenderedassoonastheywerecapableofholdingthepositionassignedtothem!

CHAPTERVII。

NIAGARA。

Ofallthesightsonthisearthofourswhichtouriststraveltosee——atleastofallthosewhichIhaveseen——IaminclinedtogivethepalmtotheFallsofNiagara。InthecatalogueofsuchsightsIintendtoincludeallbuildings,pictures,statues,andwondersofartmadebymen'shands,andalsoallbeautiesofnaturepreparedbytheCreatorforthedelightofhiscreatures。Thisisalongword;but,asfarasmytasteandjudgmentgo,itisjustified。Iknownootheronethingsobeautiful,soglorious,andsopowerful。IwouldnotbythisbeunderstoodassayingthatatravelerwishingtodothebestwithhistimeshouldfirstofallplacesseekNiagara。InvisitingFlorencehemaylearnalmostallthatmodernartcanteach。AtRomehewillbebroughttounderstandthecoldhearts,correcteyes,andcruelambitionoftheoldLatinrace。InSwitzerlandhewillsurroundhimselfwithafloodofgrandeurandloveliness,andfillhimself,ifhebecapableofsuchfilling,withafloodofromance。Thetropicswillunfoldtohimallthatvegetationinitsgreatestrichnesscanproduce。InParishewillfindthesupremeofpolish,theneplusultraofvarnishaccordingtotheworld'scapabilityofvarnishing。

AndinLondonhewillfindthesupremeofpower,theneplusultraofworkaccordingtotheworld'scapabilityofworking。Anyoneofsuchjourneysmaybemorevaluabletoaman——nay,anyonesuchjourneymustbemorevaluabletoaman——thanavisittoNiagara。

AtNiagarathereisthatfallofwatersalone。ButthatfallismoregracefulthanGiotto'stower,morenoblethantheApollo。ThepeaksoftheAlpsarenotsoastoundingintheirsolitude。ThevalleysoftheBlueMountainsinJamaicaarelessgreen。ThefinishedglazeoflifeinParisislessinvariable;andthefulltideoftraderoundtheBankofEnglandisnotsoinexorablypowerful。

IcameacrossanartistatNiagarawhowasattemptingtodrawthesprayofthewaters。“Youhaveadifficultsubject,“saidI。“Allsubjectsaredifficult,“hereplied,“toamanwhodesirestodowell。““Butyours,Ifearisimpossible,“Isaid。“YouhavenorighttosaysotillIhavefinishedmypicture,“hereplied。I

acknowledgedthejusticeofhisrebuke,regrettedthatIcouldnotremaintillthecompletionofhisworkshouldenablemetorevokemywords,andpassedon。ThenIbegantoreflectwhetherIdidnotintendtotryataskasdifficultindescribingthefalls,andwhetherIfeltanyofthatproudself-confidencewhichkepthimhappyatanyratewhilehistaskwasinhand。Iwillnotsaythatitisasdifficulttodescribearightthatrushofwatersasitistopaintitwell。ButIdoubtwhetheritisnotquiteasdifficulttowriteadescriptionthatshallinterestthereaderasitistopaintapictureofthemthatshallbepleasanttothebeholder。Myfriendtheartistwasatanyratenotafraidtomaketheattempt,andIalsowilltrymyhand。

ThatthewatersofLakeEriehavecomedownintheircoursesfromthebroadbasinsofLakeMichigan,LakeSuperior,andLakeHuron;

thatthesewatersfallintoLakeOntariobytheshortandrapidriverofNiagara;andthatthefallsofNiagaraaremadebyasuddenbreakinthelevelofthisrapidriver,isprobablyknowntoallwhowillreadthisbook。Allthewatersofthesehugenortherninlandseasrunoverthatbreachintherockybottomofthestream;

andthenceitcomesthattheflowisunceasinginitsgrandeur,andthatnoeyecanperceiveadifferenceintheweight,orsound,orviolenceofthefallwhetheritbevisitedinthedroughtofautumn,amidthestormsofwinter,orafterthemeltingoftheupperworldsoficeinthedaysoftheearlysummer。Howmanycataractsdoesthehabitualtouristvisitatwhichthewatersfailhim!ButatNiagarathewatersneverfail。Thereitthundersoveritsledgeinavolumethatneverceasesandisneverdiminished——asithasdonefromtimesprevioustothelifeofman,andasitwilldotilltensofthousandsofyearsshallseetherockybedoftheriverwornawaybacktotheupperlake。

ThisstreamdividesCanadafromtheStates——thewesternorfarthermostbankbelongingtotheBritishCrown,andtheeasternornearerbankbeingintheStateofNewYork。InvisitingNiagara,italwaysbecomesaquestiononwhichsidethevisitorshalltakeuphisquarters。OntheCanadasidethereisnotown;butthereisalargehotelbeautifullyplacedimmediatelyoppositetothefallsandthisisgenerallythoughttobethebestlocalityfortourists。

IntheStateofNewYorkisthetowncalledNiagaraFalls;andheretherearetwolargehotels,which,astotheirimmediatesite,arenotsowellplacedasthatinCanada。IfirstvisitedNiagarasomethreeyearssince。IstayedthenattheCliftonHouse,ontheCanadaside,andhavesinceswornbythatposition。ButtheCliftonHousewasclosedfortheseasonwhenIwaslastthere,andonthataccountwewenttotheCataractHouse,inthetownontheotherside。InowthinkthatIshouldsetupmystaffontheAmericanside,ifIwentagain。MyadviceonthesubjecttoanypartystartingforNiagarawoulddependupontheirhabitsorontheirnationality。IwouldsendAmericanstotheCanadianside,becausetheydislikewalking;butEnglishpeopleIwouldlocateontheAmericanside,seeingthattheyaregenerallyaccustomedtothefrequentuseoftheirownlegs。Thetwosidesarenotveryeasilyapproachedonefromtheother。Immediatelybelowthefallsthereisaferry,whichmaybetraversedattheexpenseofashilling;

butthelaborofgettingupanddownfromtheferryisconsiderable,andthepassagebecomeswearisome。Thereisalsoabridge;butitistwomilesdowntheriver,makingawalkordriveoffourmilesnecessary,andthetollforpassingisfourshillings,oradollar,inacarriage,andoneshillingonfoot。

AsthegreatervarietyofprospectcanbehadontheAmericanside,astheislandbetweenthetwofallsisapproachablefromtheAmericansideandnotfromtheCanadian,andasitisinthisislandthatvisitorswillbestlovetolinger,andlearntomeasureintheirmindsthevasttriumphofwatersbeforethem,Irecommendsuchofmyreadersascantrustalittle——itneedbebutalittle——

totheirownlegstoselecttheirhotelatNiagaraFallstown。

Ithasbeensaidthatitmattersmuchfromwhatpointthefallsarefirstseen,buttothisIdemur。Itmatters,Ithink,verylittle,ornotatall。Letthevisitorfirstseeitall,andlearnthewhereaboutsofeverypoint,soastounderstandhisownpositionandthatofthewaters;andthen,havingdonethatinthewayofbusiness,lethimproceedtoenjoyment。Idoubtwhetheritbenotthebesttodothiswithallsight-seeing。Iamquitesurethatitisthewayinwhichacquaintancemaybebestandmostpleasantlymadewithanewpicture。

Thefalls,asIhavesaid,aremadebyasuddenbreachintheleveloftheriver。Allcataractsare,Ipresume,madebysuchbreaches;

butgenerallythewatersdonotfallprecipitouslyastheydoatNiagara,andneverelsewhere,asfarastheworldyetknows,hasabreachsosuddenbeenmadeinarivercarryinginitschannelsuchoranyapproachtosuchabodyofwater。Upabovethefallsformorethanamilethewatersleapandburstoverrapids,asthoughconsciousofthedestinythatawaitsthem。Heretheriverisverybroadandcomparativelyshallow;butfromshoretoshoreitfretsitselfintolittletorrents,andbeginstoassumethemajestyofitspower。Lookingatitevenhere,intheexpansewhichformsitselfoverthegreaterfall,onefeelssurethatnostrongestswimmercouldhaveachanceofsavinghimselfiffatehadcasthiminevenamongthosepettywhirlpools。Thewatersthoughsobrokenintheirdescent,aredeliciouslygreen。Thiscolor,asseenearlyinthemorningorjustasthesunhasset,issobrightastogivetotheplaceoneofitschiefestcharms。

Thiswillbebestseenfromthefartherendoftheisland——GoatIslandasitiscalled——which,asthereaderwillunderstand,dividestheriverimmediatelyabovethefalls。Indeed,theislandisapartofthatprecipitously-brokenledgeoverwhichtherivertumbles,andnodoubtinprocessoftimewillbewornawayandcoveredwithwater。Thetime,however,willbeverylong。Inthemeanwhile,itisperhapsamileround,andiscoveredthicklywithtimber。Attheupperendoftheislandthewatersaredivided,and,comingdownintwocourseseachoveritsownrapids,formtwoseparatefalls。Thebridgebywhichtheislandisenteredisahundredyardsormoreabovethesmallerfall。Thewatersherehavebeenturnedbytheisland,andmaketheirleapintothebodyoftheriverbelowatarightanglewithit——abouttwohundredyardsbelowthegreaterfall。Takenalone,thissmallercataractwould,I

imagine,betheheaviestfallofwaterknown;buttakeninconjunctionwiththeother,itisterriblyshornofitsmajesty。

Thewatersherearenotgreenastheyareatthelargercataract;

and,thoughtheledgehasbeenhollowedandbowedbythemsoastoformacurve,thatcurvedoesnotdeepenitselfintoavastabyssasitdoesatthehorseshoeupabove。Thissmallerfallisagaindivided;andthevisitor,passingdownaflightofstepsandoverafrailwoodenbridge,findshimselfonasmallerislandinthemidstofit。

Butwewillgoatonceontotheglory,andthethunder,andthemajesty,andthewrathofthatupperhellofwaters。Wearestill,letthereaderremember,onGoatIsland——stillintheStates——andonwhatiscalledtheAmericansideofthemainbodyoftheriver。

Advancingbeyondthepathleadingdowntothelesserfall,wecometothatpointoftheislandatwhichthewatersofthemainriverbegintodescend。FromhenceacrosstotheCanadiansidethecataractcontinuesitselfinoneunabatedline。Butthelineisveryfarfrombeingdirectorstraight。Afterstretchingforsomelittlewayfromtheshoretoapointintheriverwhichisreachedbyawoodenbridgeattheendofwhichstandsatowerupontherock,——afterstretchingtothis,thelineoftheledgebendsinwardagainsttheflood——in,andin,andin——tilloneisledtothinkthatthedepthofthathorseshoeisimmeasurable。Ithasbeencutwithnostintinghand。Amonstrouscantlehasbeenwornbackoutofthecenteroftherock,sothatthefuryofthewatersconverges;andthespectator,ashegazesintothehollowwithwishfuleyes,fanciesthathecanhardlytraceoutthecenteroftheabyss。

【推荐阅读】幽幽深宫,醒来一梦似千年,重生于下堂妃身躯中的她,将如何手刃仇人? 点击阅读

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