CHAPTERIII。

MAINE，NEWHAMPSHIRE，ANDVERMONT。

PerhapsIoughttoassumethatalltheworldinEnglandknowsthatthatportionoftheUnitedStatescalledNewEnglandconsistsofthesixStatesofMaine，NewHampshire，Vermont，Massachusetts，Connecticut，andRhodeIsland。ThisisespeciallythelandofYankees，andnonecanproperlybecalledYankeesbutthosewhobelongtoNewEngland。IhavenamedtheStatesasnearlyasmaybeinorderfromthenorthdownward。OfRhodeIsland，thesmallestStateintheUnion，IhavealreadysaidwhatlittleIhavetosay。

OfthesesixStatesBostonmaybecalledthecapital。Notthatitissoinanycivilorpoliticalsense；itissimplythecapitalofMassachusetts。ButasitistheAthensoftheWesternworld；asitwasthecradleofAmericanfreedom；aseverybodyofcourseknowsthatintoBostonharborwasthrowntheteawhichGeorgeIII。wouldtax，andthatatBoston，onaccountofthatandsimilartaxes，sprangupthenewrevolution；andasithasgrowninwealth，andfame，andsizebeyondothertownsinNewEngland，itmaybeallowedtoustoregarditasthecapitalofthesesixNorthernStates，withoutguiltoflesemajestetowardtheotherfive。Tome，I

confessthisNortherndivisionofouronce-unrulycoloniesis，andalwayshasbeen，thedearest。IamnoPuritanmyself，andfancythat，hadIlivedinthedaysofthePuritans，Ishouldhavebeenanti-Puritantothefullextentofmycapabilities。ButIshouldhavebeensothroughignoranceandprejudice，andactuatedbythatloveofexistingrightsandwrongswhichmencallloyalty。IftheCanadasweretorebelnow，IshouldbeforputtingdowntheCanadianswithastronghand；butnotthelesshaveIanideathatitwillbecometheCanadastorebelandasserttheirindependenceatsomefutureperiod，unlessitbeconcededtothemwithoutsuchrebellion。Who，onlookingback，cannowrefusetoadmirethepoliticalaspirationsoftheEnglishPuritans，ordeclinetoacknowledgethebeautyandfitnessofwhattheydid？ItwasbythemthattheseStatesofNewEnglandwerecolonized。Theycamehither，statingthemselvestobepilgrims，andassuchtheyfirstplacedtheirfeetonthathallowedrockatPlymouth，ontheshoreofMassachusetts。Theycameheredrivenbynothirstofconquest，bynogreedforgold，dreamingofnoWesternempiresuchasCortezhadachievedandRaleighhadmeditated。Theydesiredtoearntheirbreadinthesweatoftheirbrow，worshipingGodaccordingtotheirownlights，livinginharmonyundertheirownlaws，andfeelingthatnomastercouldclaimarighttoputaheelupontheirnecks。

AndbeitrememberedthathereinEngland，inthosedays，earthlymasterswerestillapttoputtheirheelsonthenecksofmen。TheStarChamberwasgone，butJeffreyshadnotyetreigned。Whatearthlyaspirationswereeverhigherthanthese，ormoremanly？

Andwhatearthlyeffortseverledtogranderresults？

WedeterminedtogotoPortland，inMaine，fromthencetotheWhiteMountainsinNewHampshire——theAmericanAlps，astheylovetocallthem——andthenontoQuebec，andupthroughthetwoCanadastoNiagara；andthisroutewefollowed。FromBostontoPortlandwetraveledbyrailroad——thecarriagesonwhichareinAmericaalwayscalledcars。AndhereIbeg，onceforall，toentermyprotestloudlyagainstthemannerinwhichtheseconveyancesareconducted。

Theonegrandfault——thereareothersmallerfaults——buttheonegrandfaultisthattheyadmitbutoneclass。Tworeasonsforthisaregiven。Thefirstisthatthefinancesofthecompanieswillnotadmitofadividedaccommodation；andthesecondisthattherepublicannatureofthepeoplewillnotbrookasuperiororaristocraticclassificationoftraveling。Asregardsthefirst，I

donotintheleastbelieveinit。IfamoreexpensivemannerofrailwaytravelingwillpayinEngland，itwouldsurelydosohere。

Wereabetterclassofcarriagesorganized，aslargeaportionofthepopulationwouldusethemintheUnitedStatesasinanycountryinEurope。Anditseemstobeevidentthatinarrangingthatthereshallbeonlyonerateoftraveling，thepriceisenhancedonpoortravelersexactlyinproportionasitismadecheaptothosewhoarenotpoor。Forthepoorerclasses，travelinginAmericaisbynomeanscheap，theaverageratebeing，asfarasIcanjudge，fullythreehalfpenceamile。Itismanifestthatdearerratesforoneclasswouldallowofcheaperratesfortheother；andthatinthismannergeneraltravelingwouldbeencouragedandincreased。

ButIdonotbelievethatthequestionofexpenditurehashadanythingtodowithit。Iconceiveittobetruethattherailwaysareafraidtoputthemselvesatvariancewiththegeneralfeelingofthepeople。Ifso，therailwaysmayberight。Butthen，ontheotherband，thegeneralfeelingofthepeoplemustinsuchcasebewrong。Suchafeelingarguesatotalmistakeastothenatureofthatlibertyandequalityforthesecurityofwhichthepeoplearesoanxious，andthatmistaketheveryonewhichhasmadeshipwrecksomanyattemptsatfreedominothercountries。Itarguesthatconfusionbetweensocialandpoliticalequalitywhichhasledastraymultitudeswhohavelongedforlibertyfervently，butwhohavenotthoughtofitcarefully。Ifafirst-classrailwaycarriageshouldbeheldasoffensive，soshouldafirst-classhouse，orafirst-classhorse，orafirst-classdinner。Butfirst-

classhouses，first-classhorses，andfirst-classdinnersareveryrifeinAmerica。Ofcourseitmaybesaidthattheexpenditureshownintheselast-namedobjectsisprivateexpenditure，andcannotbecontrolled；andthatrailwaytravelingisofapublicnature，andcanbemadesubjecttopublicopinion。Butthefaultisinthatpublicopinionwhichdesirestocontrolmattersofthisnature。Suchanarrangementpartakesofalltheviceofasumptuarylaw，andsumptuarylawsareintheirveryessencemistakes。Itiswellthatamanshouldalwayshaveallforwhichheiswillingtopay。Ifhedesiresandobtainsmorethanisgoodforhim，thepunishment，andthusalsothepreventive，willcomefromothersources。

ItwillbesaidthattheAmericancarsaregoodenoughforallpurposes。Theseatsarenotveryhard，andtheroomforsittingissufficient。NeverthelessIdenythattheyaregoodenoughforallpurposes。Theyareverylong，andtoenterthemandfindaplaceoftenrequiresastruggleandalmostafight。Thereisrarelyanypersontotellastrangerwhichcarheshouldenter。Onenevermeetsanuncivilorunrulyman，butthewomenofthelowerranksarenotcourteous。Americanladieslovetolieateaseintheircarriages，asthoroughlyasdoourwomeninHydePark；andtothosewhoareusedtosuchluxury，travelingbyrailroadintheirowncountrymustbegrievous。IwouldnotwishtobethoughtaSybaritemyself，ortobeheldascomplainingbecauseIhavebeencompelledtogiveupmyseattowomenwithbabiesandbandboxeswhohaveacceptedthecourtesywithveryscantygrace。Ihaveborneworsethingsthanthese，andhaverougheditmuchinmydays，fromwantofmeansandotherreasons。NoramIyetsooldbutwhatI

canroughitstill。NeverthelessIliketoseethingsaswelldoneasispracticable，andrailwaytravelingintheStatesisnotwelldone。Ifeelboundtosayasmuchasthis，andnowIhavesaidit，onceforall。

Fewcities，orlocalitiesforcities，havefairernaturaladvantagesthanPortlandandIamboundtosaythatthepeopleofPortlandhavedonemuchinturningthemtoaccount。ThistownisnotthecapitaloftheStateinapoliticalpointofview。

Augusta，whichisfarthertothenorth，ontheKennebecRiver，istheseatoftheStategovernmentforMaine。ItisverygenerallythecasethattheStatesdonotholdtheirlegislaturesandcarryontheirgovernmentattheirchieftowns。AugustaandnotPortlandisthecapitalofMaine。OftheStateofNewYork，Albanyisthecapital，andnotthecitywhichbearstheState'sname。AndofPennsylvania，HarrisburgandnotPhiladelphiaisthecapital。I

thinktheideahasbeenthatold-fashionednotionswerebadinthattheywereoldfashioned；andthatanewpeople，boundbynoprejudices，mightcertainlymakeimprovementbychoosingforthemselvesnewways。Ifso，theAmericanpoliticianshavenotbeenthefirstintheworldwhohavethoughtthatanychangemustbeachangeforthebetter。Theassignedreasonisthecentricalpositionoftheselectedpoliticalcapitals；butIhavegenerallyfoundtherealcommercialcapitaltobeeasierofaccessthanthesmallertowninwhichthetwolegislativehousesareobligedtocollectthemselves。

WhatmustbethenaturalexcellenceoftheharborofPortland，willbeunderstoodwhenitisborneinmindthattheGreatEasterncanenteritatalltimes，andthatitcanlayalongthewharvesatanyhourofthetide。Thewharveswhichhavebeenpreparedforher——

andofwhichIwillsayawordfurtherby-and-by——arejoinedto，andinfact，areaportionof，thestationoftheGrandTrunkRailway，whichrunsfromPortlanduptoCanada。SothatpassengerslandingatPortlandoutofavesselsolargeevenastheGreatEasterncanwalkatonceonshore，andgoodscanbepassedontotherailwaywithoutanyofthecostofremoval。Iwillnotsaythatthereisnootherharborintheworldthatwouldallowofthis，butIdonotknowanyotherthatwoulddoso。

FromPortlandalineofrailway，calledasawholebythenameoftheCanadaGrandTrunkLine，runsacrosstheStateofMaine，throughthenorthernpartsofNewHampshireandVermont，toMontreal，abranchstrikingfromRichmond，alittlewithinthelimitsofCanada，toQuebec，anddowntheSt。LawrencetoRiviereduLoup。ThemainlineiscontinuedfromMontreal，throughUpperCanadatoToronto，andfromthencetoDetroitintheStateofMichigan。Thetotaldistancethustraversedis，inadirectline，about900miles。FromDetroitthereisrailwaycommunicationsthroughtheimmenseNorthwesternStatesofMichigan，Wisconsin，andIllinois，thanwhichperhapsthesurfaceoftheglobeaffordsnofinerdistrictsforpurposesofagriculture。TheproduceofthetwoCanadasmustbepouredforthtotheEasternworld，andthemenoftheEasternworldmustthrongintotheselandsbymeansofthisrailroad，and，asatpresentarranged，throughtheharborofPortland。Atpresentthelinehasbeenopened，andtheywhohaveopenedaresorelysufferinginpocketforwhattheyhavedone。ThequestionoftherailwayisratheroneapplyingtoCanadathantotheStateofMaine，andIwillthereforeleaveitforthepresent。

ButtheGreatEasternhasneverbeentoPortland，andasfarasI

knowhasnointentionofgoingthere。Shewas，Ibelieve，builtwiththatobject。Atanyrate，itwasproclaimedduringherbuildingthatsuchwasherdestiny，andthePortlandersbelieveditwithaperfectfaith。Theywenttoworkandbuiltwharvesexpresslyforher；twowharvespreparedtofithertwogangways，orwaysofexitandentrance。Theybuiltahugehoteltoreceiveherpassengers。Theypreparedforheradventwithafullconvictionthatamillenniumoftradewasabouttobewaftedtotheirhappyport。“Sir，thetownhasexpendedtwohundredthousanddollarsinexpectationofthatship，andthatshiphasdeceivedus。“SowasthematterspokenoftomebyanintelligentPortlander。I

explainedtothatintelligentgentlemanthattwohundredthousanddollarswouldgoaverylittlewaytowardmakingupthelosswhichtheill-fortunedvesselhadoccasionedontheothersideofthewater。Hedidnotinwordsexpressgratificationatthisinformation，buthelookedit。ThematterwasasitwereapartnershipwithoutdeedofcontractbetweenthePortlandersandtheshareholdersofthevessel，andthePortlanders，thoughtheyalsohavesufferedtheirlosses，havenothadtheworstofit。

Buttherearestillgooddaysinstoreforthetown。ThoughtheGreatEasternhasnotgonethere，othershipsfromEurope，moreprofitableiflessinsize，musteventuallyfindtheirwaythither。

AtpresenttheCanadalineofpacketsrunstoPortlandonlyduringthosemonthsinwhichitisshutoutfromtheSt。LawrenceandQuebecbyice。ButtheSt。LawrenceandQuebeccannotoffertheadvantageswhichPortlandenjoys，andthatbighotelandthosenewwharveswillnothavebeenbuiltinvain。

Ihavesaidthatagoodtimeiscoming，butIwouldbynomeanswishtosignifythatthepresenttimesinPortlandarebad。SofarfromitthatIdoubtwhetherIeversawatownwithmoreevidentsignsofprosperity。Ithasaboutiteverymarkofamplemeans，andnomarkofpoverty。Itcontainsabout27，000people，andforthatpopulationcoversaverylargespaceofground。Thestreetsarebroadandwellbuilt，themainstreetsnotrunninginthoseabsolutelystraightparallelswhicharesocommoninAmericantowns，andaresodistressingtoEnglisheyesandEnglishfeelings。

Allthese，exceptthestreetsdevotedexclusivelytobusiness，areshadedonbothsidesbytrees，generally，ifIrememberrightly，bythebeautifulAmericanelm，whosedroopingboughshaveallthegraceofthewillowwithoutitsfantasticmelancholy。WhatthepoorerstreetsofPortlandmaybelike，Icannotsay。Isawnopoorstreet。Butinnotownof30，000inhabitantsdidIeverseesomanyhouseswhichmustrequireanexpenditureoffromsixtoeighthundredayeartomaintainthem。

Theplace，too，isbeautifullysituated。Itisonalongpromontory，whichtakestheshapeofapeninsula，fortheneckwhichjoinsittothemain-landisnotabovehalfamileacross。

Butthoughthetownthusstandsoutintothesea，itisnotexposedandbleak。Theharbor，again，issurroundedbyland，orsoguardedandlockedbyislandsastoformaseriesofsalt-waterlakesrunningroundthetown。Ofthoseislandsthereare，ofcourse，threehundredandsixty-five。Travelerswhowritetheirtravelsareconstantlycalledupontorecordthatnumber，sothatitmaynowbeconsideredasasuperlativeinlocalphraseology，signifyingaverygreatmanyindeed。Thetownstandsbetweentwohills，thesuburbsoroutskirtsrunningupontoeachofthem。TheonelookingouttowardtheseaiscalledMountjoy，thoughtheobstinateAmericanswillwriteitMunjoyontheirmaps。Fromthencetheviewouttotheharborandbeyondtheharbortotheislandsis，Imaynotsayunequaled，orIshallbeguiltyofrunningintosuperlativesmyself，butitisinitswayequaltoanythingIhaveseen。PerhapsitismorelikeCorkharbor，asseenfromcertainheightsoverPassage，thananythingelseIcanremember；butPortlandharbor，thoughequallylandlocked，islarger；andthenfromPortlandharborthereis，asitwere，ariveroutletrunningthroughdeliciousislands，mostunalluringtothenavigator，butdelicioustotheeyesofanuncommercialtraveler。Thereareinallfouroutletstothesea，oneofwhichappearstohavebeenmadeexpresslyfortheGreatEastern。Thenthereisthehilllookinginward。Ifithasaname，Iforgetit。Theviewfromthishillisalsooverthewateroneachside，and，thoughnotsoextensive，isperhapsaspleasingastheother。

Thewaysofthepeopleseemedtobequiet，smooth，orderly，andrepublican。ThereisnothingtodrinkinPortland，ofcourse；for，thankstoMr。NealDow，theFatherMatthewoftheStateofMaine，theMaineliquorlawisstillinforceinthatState。Thereisnothingtodrink，Ishouldsay，insuchorderlyhousesasthatI

selected。“Peopledodrinksomeinthetown，theysay，“saidmyhostesstome，“andliquoristobegot。ButIneverventuretosellany。Anill-naturedpersonmightturnonme；andwhereshouldIbethen？“Ididnotpressher，andshewasgoodenoughtoputabottleofporteratmyrighthandatdinner，forwhichIobservedshemadenocharge。“Buttheyadvertisebeerintheshopwindows，“

Isaidtoamanwhowasdrivingme——“Scotchaleandbitterbeer。A

mancangetdrunkonthem。““Waal，yes。Ifhegoestoworkhard，anddrinksabucketful，“saidthedriver，“perhapshemay。“FromwhichandotherthingsIgatheredthatthemenofMainedrankpottledeepbeforeMr。NealDowbroughthisexertionstoasuccessfultermination。

TheMaineliquorlawstillstandsinMaine，andisthelawofthelandthroughoutNewEngland；butitisnotactuallyputinforceintheotherStates。Bythislawnomanmayretailwine，spirits，or，intruth，beer，exceptwithaspeciallicense，whichisgivenonlytothosewhoarepresumedtosellthemasmedicines。Amanmayhavewhathelikesinhisowncellarforhisownuse——such，atleast，istheactualworkingofthelaw——butmaynotobtainitathotelsandpublichouses。Thislaw，likeallsumptuarylaws，mustfail。AnditisfastfailingeveninMaine。Butitdidappeartome，fromsuchinformationasIcouldcollect，thatthepassingofithaddonemuchtohinderandrepressahabitofharddrinkingwhichwasbecomingterriblycommon，notonlyinthetownsofMaine，butamongthefarmersandhiredlaborersinthecountry。

But，ifthemenandwomenofPortlandmaynotdrink，theymayeat；

anditisaplace，Ishouldsay，inwhichgoodlivingonthatsideofthequestionisveryrife。Ithasanairofsupremeplenty，asthoughtheagoniesofanemptystomachwereneverknownthere。Thefacesofthepeopletellofthreeregularmealsofmeataday，andofdigestivepowersinproportion。OhappyPortlanders，iftheyonlyknewtheirowngoodfortune！Theygetupearly，andgotobedearly。Thewomenarecomelyandsturdy，abletotakecareofthemselves，withoutanyfal-lalofchivalry，andthemenaresedate，obliging，andindustrious。Isawtheyounggirlsinthestreetscominghomefromtheirteapartiesatnineo'clock，manyofthemalone，andallwithsomebasketintheirhands，whichbetokenedaneveningnotpassedabsolutelyinidleness。Nofearthereofunrulyquestionsontheway，orofinsolencefromtheill-

conductedoftheothersex。Allwas，orseemedtobe，orderly，sleek，andunobtrusive。Probably，ofallmodesoflifethatareallottedtomanbyhisCreator，lifesuchasthisisthemosthappy。Onehint，however，forimprovement，ImustgiveeventoPortland:Itwouldbewelliftheycouldmaketheirstreetsofsomematerialharderthansand。

Imustnotleavethetownwithoutdesiringthosewhomayvisitittomounttheobservatory。Theywillfromthencegetthebestviewoftheharborandofthesurroundingland；and，iftheychancetodosounderthereignofthepresentkeeperofthesignals，theywillfindamanthereableandwillingtotellthemeverythingneedfulabouttheStateofMaineingeneralandtheharborinparticular。Hewillcomeoutinhisshirtsleeves，and，likeatrueAmerican，willnotatfirstbeverysmoothinhiscourtesy；

buthewillwaxbrighterinconversation，and，ifnotstrokedthewrongway，willturnouttobeanuncommonlypleasantfellow。SuchIbelievetobethecasewithmostofthem。

FromPortlandwemadeourwayuptotheWhiteMountains，whichlayonourroutetoCanada。Now，Iwouldaskanyofmyreaderswhoarecandidenoughtoexposetheirownignorancewhethertheyeverheard，oratanyratewhethertheyknowanything，oftheWhiteMountains？Asregardsmyself，Iconfessthatthenamehadreachedmyears；thatIhadanindefiniteideathattheyformedanintermediatestagebetweentheRockyMountainsandtheAlleghanies；

andthattheywereinhabitedeitherbyMormons，Indians，orsimplybyblackbears。ThattherewasadistrictinNewEnglandcontainingmountainscenerysuperiortomuchthatisyearlycrowdedbytouristsinEurope，thatthisistobereachedwitheasebyrailwaysandstagecoaches，andthatitisdottedwithhugehotelsalmostasthicklyastheylieinSwitzerland，Ihadnoidea。Muchofthisscenery，Isay，issuperiortothefamedandclassiclandsofEurope。Iknownothing，forinstance，ontheRhineequaltotheviewfromMountWillarddownthemountainpasscalledtheNotch。

Letthevisitoroftheseregionsbeaslateintheyearashecan，takingcarethatheisnotsolateastofindthehotelsclosed。

October，nodoubt，isthemostbeautifulmonthamongthesemountains；but，accordingtothepresentarrangementofmattershere，thehotelsareshutupbytheendofSeptember。Withus，August，September，andOctoberaretheholidaymonths；whereasourrebelchildrenacrosstheAtlanticlovetodisportthemselvesinJulyandAugust。Thegreatbeautyoftheautumn，orfall，isinthebrillianthueswhicharethentakenbythefoliage。Theautumnaltintsarefinewithus。Theyarelovelyandbrightwhereverfoliageandvegetationformapartofthebeautyofscenery。ButinnootherlanddotheyapproachthebrilliancyofthefallinAmerica。Thebrightrosecolor，therichbronzewhichisalmostpurpleinitsrichness，andthegloriousgoldenyellowsmustbeseentobeunderstood。Byme，atanyrate，theycannotbedescribed。TheybegintoshowthemselvesinSeptember；andperhapsImightnamethelatterhalfofthatmonthasthebesttimeforvisitingtheWhiteMountains。

Iamnotgoingtowriteaguidebook，feelingsurethatMr。MurraywilldoNewEnglandandCanada，includingNiagara，andtheHudsonRiver，withapeepintoBostonandNewYork，beforemanymoreseasonshavepassedby。ButIcannotforbeartotellmycountrymenthatanyenterprisingindividual，withahundredpoundstospendonhisholiday——ahundredandtwentywouldmakehimmorecomfortableinregardtowine，washing，andotherluxuries——andanabsenceoftwomonthsfromhislabors，mayseeasmuchanddoasmuchhereforthemoneyashecanseeordoelsewhere。Insomerespectshemaydomore；forhewilllearnmoreofAmericannatureinsuchajourneythanhecaneverlearnofthenatureofFrenchmenorAmericansbysuchanexcursionamongthem。Somethreeweeksofthetime，orperhapsadayortwoover，hemustbeatsea，andthatportionofhistripwillcosthimfiftypounds，presumingthathechoosestogointhemostcomfortableandcostlyway；buthistimeonboardshipwillnotbelost。HewilllearntoknowmuchofAmericansthere，andwillperhapsformacquaintancesofwhichhewillnotaltogetherlosesightformanyayear。HewilllandatBoston，and，stayingadayortwothere，willvisitCambridge，Lowell，andBunkerHill，and，ifhebethatwaygiven，willrememberthatherelive，andoccasionallyaretobeseenalive，mensuchasLongfellow，Emerson，Hawthorne，andahostofothers，whosenamesandfameshavemadeBostonthethroneofWesternliterature。

Hewillthen，ifhetakemyadviceandfollowmytrack，gobyPortlandupintotheWhiteMountains。AtGorham，astationontheGrandTrunkLine，hewillfindahotelasgoodasanyofitskind，andfromthencehewilltakealightwagon，socalledinthesecountries。Andhereletmepresumethatthetravelerisnotalone:

hehashiswifeorfriend，orperhapsapairofsisters，andinhiswagonhewillgoupthroughprimevalforeststotheGlenHouse。

Whenthere，hewillascendMountWashingtononapony。Thatisderigueur，andIdonotthereforedaretorecommendhimtoomittheascent。Ididnotgainmuchmyselfbymylabor。HewillnotstayattheGlenHouse，butwillgoonto——Jackson'sIthinktheycallthenexthotel，atwhichhewillsleep。FromthencehewilltakehiswagononthroughtheNotchtotheCrawfordhouse，sleepingthereagain；andwhenhere，lethim，ofallthings，remembertogoupMountWillard。Itisbutawalkoftwohoursupanddown，ifsomuch。Whenreachingthetop，hewillbestartledtofindthathelooksdownintotheravinewithoutaninchofforeground。Hewillcomeoutsuddenlyonaledgeofrock，fromwhence，asitseems，hemightleapdownatonceintothevalleybelow。Then，goingonfromtheCrawfordHouse，hewillbedriventhroughthewoodsofCherryMount，passing，Ifearwithouttollofcustom，thehouseofmyexcellentfriendMr。Plaistead，whokeepsahotelatJefferson。

“Sir，“saidMr。Plaistead，“Ihaveeverythingherethatamanoughttowant:air，sir，thatainttobegotbetternowhere；trout，chickens，beef，mutton，milk——andallforadollaraday！A-topofthathill，sir，there'saviewthatainttobebeatenthissideoftheAtlantic，orIbelievetheother。Andanecho，sir！——we'veanechothatcomesbacktoussixtimes，sir；floatingonthelightwind，andwaftedaboutfromrocktorock，tillyouwouldthinktheangelsweretalkingtoyou。IfIcouldraisethatecho，sir，everydayatcommand，I'dgiveathousanddollarsforit。Itwouldbeworthallthemoneytoahouselikethis。“Andhewavedhishandaboutfromhilltohill，pointingoutingracefulcurvesthelineswhichthesoundswouldtake。HaddestinynotcalledonMr。

PlaisteadtokeepanAmericanhotel，hemighthavebeenapoet。

Mytraveler，however，unlesstimewereplentywithhim，wouldpassMr。Plaistead，merelylightingafriendlycigar，orperhapsbreakingtheMaineliquorlawiftheweatherbewarm，andwouldreturntoGorhamontherailway。AllthismountaindistrictisinNewHampshire；and，presuminghimtobecapableofgoingabouttheworldwithhismouth，ears，andeyesopen，hewouldlearnmuchofthewayinwhichmenaresettlingthemselvesinthisstillsparsely-populatedcountry。HereyoungfarmersgointothewoodsastheyaredoingfardownWestintheTerritories，andbuyingsomehundredacresatperhapssixshillingsanacre，fellandburnthetrees，andbuildtheirhuts，andtakethefirststeps，asfarasman'sworkisconcerned，towardaccomplishingthewilloftheCreatorinthoseregions。Forsuchpioneersofcivilizationthereisstillampleroomeveninthelong-settledStatesofNewHampshireandVermont。

Buttoreturntomytraveler，whom，havingbroughtsofar，Imustsendon。LethimgoonfromGorhamtoQuebecandtheheightsofAbraham，stoppingatSherbrookethathemightvisitfromthencetheLakeofMemphraMagog。AstothemanneroftravelingoverthisgroundIshallsayalittleinthenextchapter，whenIcometotheprogressofmyselfandmywife。FromQuebechewillgouptheSt。

LawrencetoMontreal。HewillvisitOttawa，thenewcapital，andToronto。HewillcrossthelaketoNiagara，restingprobablyattheCliftonHouseontheCanadaside。HewillthenpassontoAlbany，takingtheTrentonFallsonhisway。FromAlbanyhewillgodowntheHudsontoWestPoint。HecannotstopattheCatskillMountains，forthehotelwillbeclosed。Andthenhewilltaketheriverboat，andinafewhourswillfindhimselfatNewYork。IfhedesirestogointoAmericancitysociety，hewillfindNewYorkagreeable；butinthatcasehemustexceedhistwomonths。Ifhedonotsodesire，ashortsojournatNewYorkwillshowhimallthatthereistobeseenandallthatthereisnottobeseeninthatgreatcity。ThattheCunardlineofsteamerswillbringhimsafelybacktoLiverpoolinaboutelevendays，IneednottelltoanyEnglishman，or，asIbelieve，toanyAmerican。Somuch，inthespiritofaguide，Ivouchsafetoallwhoarewillingtotakemycounsel——therebyanticipatingMurray，andleavingthesefewpagesasalegacytohimortohiscollaborateurs。

IcannotsaythatIlikethehotelsinthoseparts，or，indeed，themodeoflifeatAmericanhotelsingeneral。InorderthatImaynotunjustlydefamethem，Iwillcommencetheseobservationsbydeclaringthattheyarecheaptothosewhochoosetopracticetheeconomywhichtheyencourage，thattheviandsareprofuseinquantityandwholesomeinquality，thattheattendanceisquickandunsparing，andthattravelersareneverannoyedbythatgrasping，greedyhungerandthirstafterfrancsandshillingswhichdisgrace，inEurope，manyEnglishandmanycontinentalinns。Allthisis，asmustbeadmitted，greatpraise；andyetIdonotliketheAmericanhotels。

Oneisinafreecountry，andhascomefromacountryinwhichonehasbeenbroughtuptohugone'schains——soatleasttheEnglishtravelerisconstantlyassured——andyetinanAmericaninnonecanneverdoasonelikes。Aterrificgongsoundsearlyinthemorning，breakingone'ssweetslumbers；andthenasecondgong，soundingsomethirtyminuteslater，makesyouunderstandthatyoumustproceedtobreakfastwhetheryoubedressedorno。Youcertainlycangoonwithyourtoilet，andobtainyourmealafterhalfanhour'sdelay。Nobodyactuallyscoldsyouforsodoing，butthebreakfastis，astheysayinthiscountry，“through。“Yousitdownalone，andtheattendantstandsimmediatelyoveryou。

Probablytherearetwosostanding。Theyfillyourcuptheinstantitisempty。Theytenderyoufreshfoodbeforethatwhichhasdisappearedfromyourplatehasbeenswallowed。Theybegrudgeyounoamountthatyoucaneatordrink；buttheybegrudgeyouasinglemomentthatyousitthereneithereatingnordrinking。Thisisyourfateifyou'retoolate；andtherefore，asarule，youarenotlate。Inthatcase，youformoneofalongrowofeaterswhoproceedthroughtheirworkwithasolidenergythatispastallpraise。ItiswrongtosaythatAmericanswillnottalkattheirmeals。Inevermetbutfewwhowouldnottalktome，atanyratetillIgottothefarWest；butIhaverarelyfoundthattheywouldaddressmefirst。Thenthedinnercomesearly——atleastitalwaysdoessoinNewEngland——andtheceremonyismuchofthesamekind。

Youcametheretoeat，andthefoodispresseduponyouadnauseam。

But，asfarasonecansee，thereisnodrinking。Inthesedays，I

amquiteawarethatdrinkinghasbecomeimproper，eveninEngland。

Weareapt，athome，tospeakofwineasathingtabooed，wonderinghowourfatherslivedandswilled。Ibelievethat，asafact，wedrinkasmuchastheydid；but，nevertheless，thatisourtheory。

Iconfess，however，thatIlikewine。Itisverywicked，butitseemstomethatmydinnergoesdownbetterwithaglassofsherrythanwithoutit。Asarule，IalwaysdidgetitathotelsinAmerica。ButIhadnocomfortwithit。Sherrytheydonotunderstandatall。OfcourseIamonlyspeakingofhotels。TheirclarettheygetexclusivelyfromMr。Gladstone，and，lookingatthequality，havearighttoquarrelevenwithMr。Gladstone'sprice。

ButitisnotthequalityofthewinethatIherebyintendtosubjecttoignominysomuchasthewantofanyopportunityfordrinkingit。Afterdinner，ifallthatIhearbetrue，thegentlemenoccasionallydropintothehotelbarand“liquorup。“Orratherthisisnotdonespeciallyafterdinner，but，withoutprejudicetothehour，atanytimethatmaybefounddesirable。I

alsohave“liquoredup，“butIcannotsaythatIenjoytheprocess。

IdonotintendherebytoaccuseAmericansofdrinkingmuch；butI

maintainthatwhattheydodrink，theydrinkinthemostuncomfortablemannerthattheimaginationcandevise。

ThegreatestluxuryatanEnglishinnisone'stea，one'sfire，andone'sbook。SuchanarrangementisnotpracticableatanAmericanhotel。Tea，likebreakfast，isagreatmeal，atwhichmeatshouldbeeaten，generallywiththeadditionofmuchjelly，jam，andsweetpreserve；butnopersondelaysoverhisteacup。Ilovetohavemyteacupemptiedandfilledwithgradualpauses，sothattimeforoblivionmayaccrue，andnoexactrecordbetaken。NosuchmealisknownatAmericanhotels。Itispossibletohireaseparateroom，andhaveone'smealsservedinit；butindoingsoamanrunscountertoalltheinstitutionsofthecountry，andawomandoessoequally。Astrangerdoesnotwishtobeviewedaskancebyallaroundhim；andtherulewhichholdsthatmenatRomeshoulddoasRomansdo，iftrueanywhere，istrueinAmerica。ThereforeIsaythatinanAmericaninnonecanneverdoasonepleases。

InwhatIhaveheresaidIdonotintendtospeakofhotelsinthelargestcities，suchasBostonorNewYork。Atthemmealsareservedinthepublicroomseparately，andprettynearlyatanyoratallhoursoftheday；butatthemalsotheattendantstandsovertheunfortunateeateranddriveshim。TheguestfeelsthatheiscontrolledbylawsadaptedtotheusagesoftheMedesandPersians。

Heisnotthemasterontheoccasion，buttheslave——aslavewelltreated，andfatteneduptothefullenduranceofhumanity，butyetaslave。

FromGorhamwewentontoIslandPond，astationonthesameCanadaTrunkRailway，onaSaturdayevening，andwereforcedbythecircumstancesofthelinetopassamelancholySundayattheplace。

ThecarsdonotrunonSundays，andrunbutonceadayonotherdaysoverthewholeline，sothat，infact，theimpedimenttotravelingspreadsovertwodays。IslandPondisalakewithanislandinit；andtheplacewhichhastakenthenameisasmallvillage，abouttenyearsold，standinginthemidstofuncutforests，andhasbeencreatedbytherailway。IntenyearsmoretherewillnodoubtbeaspreadingtownatIslandPond；theforestswillrecede；andmen，rushingoutfromthecrowdedcities，willfindherefood，andspace，andwealth。Formyself，Ineverremainlonginsuchaspotwithoutfeelingthankfulthatithasnotbeenmymissiontobeapioneerofcivilization。

ThefartherthatIgotawayfromBostonthelessstrongdidIfindthefeelingofangeragainstEngland。There，asIhavesaidbefore，therewasabitteranimosityagainstthemothercountryinthatshehadshownnoopensympathywiththeNorth。InMaineandNewHampshireIdidnotfindthistobethecasetoanyviolentdegree。MenspokeofthewarasopenlyastheydidatBoston，and，inspeakingtome，generallyconnectedEnglandwiththesubject。

ButtheydidsosimplytoaskquestionsastoEngland'spolicy。

Whatwillshedoforcottonwhenheroperativesarereallypressed？

Willshebreaktheblockade？WillsheinsistonarighttotradewithCharlestonandnewOrleans？Ialwaysansweredthatshewouldinsistonnosuchright，ifthatrightweredeniedtoothersandthedenialenforced。England，Itookuponmyselftosay，wouldnotbreakaveritableblockade，letherbedriventowhatshiftsshemightinprovidingforheroperatives。“Ah！that'swhatwefear，“

averystanchpatriotsaidtome，ifwordsmaybetakenasaproofofstauchness。“IfEnglandalliesherselfwiththeSoutherners，allourtroubleisfornothing。“ItwasimpossiblenottofeelthatallthatwassaidwascomplimentarytoEngland。ItishersympathythattheNorthernmendesire，toherco-operationthattheywouldwillinglytrust，onherhonestythattheywouldchoosetodepend。Itisthesamefeelingwhetheritshowsitselfinangerorincuriosity。AnAmerican，whetherhebeembarkedinpolitics，inliterature，orincommerce，desiresEnglishadmiration，Englishappreciationofhisenergy，andEnglishencouragement。TheangerofBostonisbutasignofitsaffectionatefriendliness。Whatfeelingissohotasthatofafriendwhenhisdearestfriendrefusestosharehisquarrelortosympathizeinhiswrongs！Tomythinking，themenofBostonarewrongandunreasonableintheiranger；butwereIamanofBoston，Ishouldbeaswrongandasunreasonableasanyofthem。Allthat，however，willcomeright。

IwillnotbelieveitpossiblethatthereshouldinverytruthbeaquarrelbetweenEnglandandtheNorthernStates。

IntheguidanceofthosewhoarenotquiteaufaitatthedetailsofAmericangovernment，IwillhereinafewwordsdescribetheoutlinesofStategovernmentasitisarrangedinNewHampshire。

TheStates，inthisrespect，arenotallalike，themodesofelectionoftheirofficers，andperiodsofservice，beingdifferent。EventhefranchiseisdifferentindifferentStates。

UniversalsuffrageisnottherulethroughouttheUnitedStates，thoughitis，Ibelieve，verygenerallythoughtinEnglandthatsuchisthefact。IneedhardlysaythatthelawsinthedifferentStatesmaybeasvariousasthedifferentlegislaturesmaychoosetomakethem。

InNewHampshireuniversalsuffragedoesprevail，whichmeansthatanymanmayvotewholivesintheState，supportshimself，andassiststosupportthepoorbymeansofpoorrates。AgovernoroftheStateiselectedforoneyearonly；butitiscustomary，oratanyratenotuncustomary，tore-electhimforasecondyear。Hissalaryisathousanddollarsayear，ortwohundredpounds。Itmustbepresumed，therefore，thatglory，andnotmoney，ishisobject。TohimisappendedaCouncil，bywhoseopinionshemustinagreatdegreebeguided。HisfunctionsaretotheStatewhatthoseofthePresidentaretothecountry；and，fortheshortperiodofhisreign，heisasitwereaPrimeMinisteroftheState，withcertainverylimitedregalattributes。He，however，bynomeansenjoystheregalattributeofdoingnowrong。IneveryStatethereisanAssembly，consistingoftwohousesofelectedrepresentatives——theSenate，orupperhouse，andtheHouseofRepresentativessocalled。InNewHampshire，thisAssemblyorParliamentisstyledTheGeneralCourtofNewHampshire。Itsitsannually，whereasthelegislatureinmanyStatessitsonlyeveryotheryear。Bothhousesarere-electedeveryyear。ThisAssemblypasseslawswithallthepowervestedinourParliament，butsuchlawsapplyofcourseonlytotheStateinquestion。TheGovernoroftheStatehasavetoonallbillspassedbythetwohouses。

But，afterreceiptofhisveto，anybillsostoppedbytheGovernorcanbepassedbyamajorityoftwo-thirdsineachhouse。TheGeneralCourtusuallysitsforabouttenweeks。ThereareintheStateeightjudges——threesupreme，whositatConcord，thecapital，asacourtofappealbothincivilandcriminalmatters，andthenfivelesserjudges，whogocircuitthroughtheState。Thesalariesoftheselesserjudgesdonotexceedfrom250poundsto300poundsayear；buttheyare，Ibelieve，allowedtopracticeaslawyersinanycountiesexceptthoseinwhichtheysitasjudges——beingguided，inthisrespect，bythesamelawasthatwhichregulatestheworkofassistantbarristersinIreland。TheassistantbarristersinIrelandareattachedtothecountiesasjudgesatQuarterSessions，buttheypractice，ormaypractice，asadvocatesinallcountiesexceptthattowhichtheyaresoattached。ThejudgesinNewHampshireareappointedbytheGovernor，withtheassistanceofhisCouncil。NojudgeinNewHampshirecanholdhisseatafterhehasreachedseventyyearsofage。

SomuchatthepresentmomentwithreferencetothegovernmentofNewHampshire。

CHAPTERIV。

LOWERCANADA。

TheGrandTrunkRailwayrunsdirectlyfromPortlandtoMontreal，whichlattertownis，infact，thecapitalofCanada，thoughitneverhasbeensoexclusively，and，asitseems，neveristobesoasregardsauthority，government，andofficialname。Insuchmatters，authorityandgovernmentoftensayonethingwhilecommercesaysanother；butcommercealwayshasthebestofitandwinsthegame，whatevergovernmentmaydecree。Albany，inthisway，isthecapitaloftheStateofNewYork，asauthorizedbytheStategovernment；butNewYorkhasmadeherselfthecapitalofAmerica，andwillremainso。SoalsoMontrealhasmadeherselfthecapitalofCanada。TheGrandTrunkRailwayrunsfromPortlandtoMontreal；butthereisabranchfromRichmond，atownshipwithinthelimitsofCanada，toQuebec；sothattravelerstoQuebec，aswewere，arenotobligedtoreachthatplaceviaMontreal。

QuebecisthepresentseatofCanadiangovernment，itsturnforthathonorhavingcomeroundsometwoyearsago；butitisabouttobedesertedinfavorofOttawa，atownwhichis，infact，stilltobebuiltontheriverofthatname。Thepublicedificesare，however，inastateofforwardness；andifallgoeswell，theGovernor，thetwoCouncils，andtheHouseofRepresentativeswillbetherebeforetwoyearsareover，whethertherebeanytowntoreceivethemorno。WhocanthinkofOttawawithoutbiddinghisbrotherstorow，andremindingthemthatthestreamrunsfast，thattherapidsarenearandthedaylightpast？Iasked，asamatterofcourse，whetherQuebecwasmuchdisgustedattheproposedchange，andIwastoldthatthefeelingwasnotnowverystrong。HaditbeendeterminedtomakeMontrealthepermanentseatofgovernment，QuebecandTorontowouldbothhavebeenupinarms。

Imustconfessthat，ingoingfromtheStatesintoCanada，anEnglishmanisstruckbythefeelingthatheisgoingfromarichercountryintoonethatispoorer，andfromagreatercountryintoonethatisless。AnEnglishmangoingfromaforeignlandintoalandwhichisinonesensehisown，ofcoursefindsmuchinthechangetogratifyhim。Heisabletospeakasthemaster，insteadofspeakingasthevisitor。Histonguebecomesmorefree，andheisabletofallbacktohisnationalhabitsandnationalexpressions。Henolongerfeelsthatheisadmittedonsufferance，orthathemustbecarefultorespectlawswhichhedoesnotquiteunderstand。ThisfeelingwasnaturallystronginanEnglishmaninpassingfromtheStatesintoCanadaatthetimeofmyvisit。

Englishpolicy，atthatmoment，wasviolentlyabusedbyAmericans，andwasupheldasviolentlyinCanada。Butnevertheless，withallthis，IcouldnotenterCanadawithoutseeing，andhearing，andfeelingthattherewaslessofenterprisearoundmetherethanintheStates，lessofgeneralmovement，andlessofcommercialsuccess。Tosaywhythisissowouldrequirealongandverydifficultdiscussion，andonewhichIamnotpreparedtohold。Itmaybethatadependentcountry，letthefeelingofdependencebeeversomuchmodifiedbypowersofself-governance，cannotholditsownagainstcountrieswhichareinallrespectstheirownmasters。

Few，Ibelieve，wouldnowmaintainthattheNorthernStatesofAmericawouldhaverisenincommerceastheyhaverisen，hadtheystillremainedattachedtoEnglandascolonies。Ifthisbeso，thatprivilegeofself-rulewhichtheyhaveacquiredhasbeenthecauseoftheirsuccess。ItdoesnotfollowasaconsequencethattheCanadas，fightingtheirbattlealoneintheworld，coulddoastheStateshavedone。Climate，orsize，orgeographicalpositionmightstandintheirway。ButIfearthatitdoesfollow，ifnotasalogicalconclusion，atleastasanaturalresult，thattheyneverwilldosowellunlesssomedaytheyshallsofighttheirbattle。ItmaybearguedthatCanadahasinfactthepowerofself-governance；thatsherulesherselfandmakesherownlawsasEnglanddoes；thattheSovereignofEnglandhasbutavetoonthoselaws，andstandsinregardtoCanadaexactlyasshedoesinregardtoEngland。Thisisso，Ibelieve，bytheletteroftheConstitution，butisnotsoinreality，andcannotintruthbesoinanycolonyevenofGreatBritain。InEnglandthepoliticalpoweroftheCrownisnothing。TheCrownhasnosuchpower，andnow-a-daysmakesnoattemptathavingany。ButthepoliticalpoweroftheCrownasitisfeltinCanadaiseverything。TheCrownhasnosuchpowerinEngland，becauseitmustchangeitsministerswhenevercalledupontodosobytheHouseofCommons。ButtheColonialMinisterinDowningStreetistheCrown'sPrimeMinisterasregardsthecolonies，andheischangednotasanycolonialHouseofAssemblymaywish，butinaccordancewiththewilloftheBritishCommons。BoththehousesinCanada——that，namely，oftheRepresentatives，orLowerHousesandoftheLegislativeCouncil，orUpperHouse——arenowelective，andarefilledwithoutdirectinfluencefromtheCrown。Thepowerofself-governmentisasthoroughlydevelopedasperhapsmaybepossibleinacolony。But，afterall，itisadependentformofgovernment，andassuchmayperhapsnotconducetosothoroughadevelopmentoftheresourcesofthecountryasmightbeachieveunderarulingpowerofitsown，towhichthewelfareofCanadaitselfwouldbethechiefifnottheonlyobject。

IbegthatitmaynotbeconsideredfromthisthatIwouldproposetoCanadatosetupforitselfatonceanddeclareitselfindependent。InthefirstplaceIdonotwishtothrowoverCanada；andinthenextplaceIdonotwishtothrowoverEngland。

Ifsuchaseparationshallevertakeplace，Itrustthatitmaybecaused，notbyCanadianviolence，butbyBritishgenerosity。Suchaseparation，however，nevercanbegoodtillCanadaherselfshallwishit。Thatshedoesnotwishityet，iscertain。IfCanadaevershouldwishit，andshouldeverpressfortheaccomplishmentofsuchawish，shemustdosoinconnectionwithNovaScotiaandNewBrunswick。Ifatanyfuturetimetherebeformedsuchaseparatepoliticalpower，itmustincludethewholeofBritishNorthAmerica。

Inthemeantime，Ireturntomyassertion，thatinenteringCanadafromtheStatesoneclearlycomesfromarichertoapoorercountry。WhenIhavesaidso，IhaveheardnoCanadianabsolutelydenyit；thoughinrefrainingfromdenyingit，theyhaveusuallyexpressedageneralconviction，thatinsettlinghimselfforlifeitisbetterforamantosetuphisstaffinCanadathanintheStates。“Idonotknowthatwearericher，“aCanadiansays，“butonthewholewearedoingbetterandarehappier。“Now，Iregardthegoldenrulesagainsttheloveofgold，the“aurumirrepertumetsicmeliussitum，“andtherestofit，asveryexcellentwhenappliedtoindividuals。Suchteachinghasnotmucheffect，perhaps，ininducingmentoabstainfromwealth；butsucheffectasitmayhavewillbegood。Menandwomendo，Isuppose，learntobehappierwhentheylearntodisregardriches。Butsuchadoctrineisabsolutelyfalseasregardsanation。Nationalwealthproduceseducationandprogress，andthroughthemproducesplentyoffood，goodmorals，andallelsethatisgood。Itproducesluxuryalso，andcertainevilsattendantonluxury。ButIthinkitmaybeclearlyshown，andthatitisuniversallyacknowledged，thatnationalwealthproducesindividualwell-being。Ifthisbeso，theargumentofmyfriendtheCanadianisnaught。

Tothefeelingofarefinedgentleman，orofaladywhoseeyelovestorestalwaysonthebeautiful，anagriculturalpopulationthattouchesitshat，eatsplainvictuals，andgoestochurch，ismorepicturesqueanddelightfulthanthethrongedcrowdofagreatcity，bywhichaladyandgentlemanishustledwithoutremorse，whichnevertouchesitshat，andperhapsalsonevergoestochurch。Andaswearealwaystemptedtoapproveofthatwhichwelike，andtothinkthatthatwhichisgoodtousisgoodaltogether，we——therefinedgentlemenandladiesofEnglandImean——areveryapttopreferthehattoucherstothosewhoarenothattouchers。Indoingsoweintend，andwish，andstrivetobephilanthropical。Wearguetoourselvesthatthedearexcellentlowerclassesreceiveanimmenseamountofconsolinghappinessfromthatceremonyofhattouching，andquitepitythosewho，unfortunatelyforthemselves，knownothingaboutit。Iwouldaskanysuchladyorgentlemanwhetherheorshedoesnotfeelacertainamountofcommiserationfortherudenessofthetown-bredartisanwhowalksaboutwithhishandsinhispocketsasthoughherecognizedasuperiorinnoone？

Butthatwhichisgoodandpleasanttousisoftennotgoodandpleasantaltogether。Everyman'schiefobjectishimself；andthephilanthropistshouldendeavortoregardthisquestion，notfromhisownpointofview，butfromthatwhichwouldbetakenbytheindividualsforwhosehappinessheisanxious。Thehonest，happyrusticmakesaveryprettypicture；andIhopethathonestrusticsarehappy。Butthemanwhoearnstwoshillingsadayinthecountrywouldalwaysprefertoearnfiveinthetown。Themanwhofindshimselfboundtotouchhishattothesquirewouldbegladtodispensewiththatceremony，ifcircumstanceswouldpermit。A

crowdofgreasy-coatedtownartisans，withgrimyhandsandpalefaces，isnotinitselfdelectable；buteachofthatcrowdhasprobablymoreofthegoodsoflifethananyrurallaborer。Hethinksmore，readsmore，feelsmore，seesmore，hearsmore，learnsmore，andlivesmore。Itisthroughgreatcitiesthatthecivilizationoftheworldhasprogressed，andthecharmsoflifebeenadvanced。Maninhisrudeststatebeginsinthecountry，andinhismostfinishedstatemayretirethere。Butthebattleoftheworldhastobefoughtinthecities；andthecountrythatshowsthegreatestcitypopulationisevertheonethatisgoingmostaheadintheworld'shistory。

Ifthisbeso，IsaythattheargumentofmyCanadianfriendwasnaught。Itmaybethathedoesnotdesirecrowdedcities，withdirty，independentartisans；thattoviewsmallfarmers，livingsparingly，butwithcontent，onthesweatoftheirbrows，aresurersignsofacountry'sprosperitythanhivesofmenandsmokingchimneys。HehasprobablyalltheupperclassesofEnglandwithhiminsothinking，andasfarasIknowtheupperclassesofallEurope。Butthecrowdsthemselves，thethickmassesofwhicharecomposedthosepopulationswhichwecountbymillions，areagainsthim。Upinthoseregionswhicharewateredbythegreatlakes——

LakeMichigan，LakeHuron，LakeErie，LakeOntario——andbytheSt。

Lawrence，thecountryisdividedbetweenCanadaandtheStates。

ThecitiesinCanadaweresettledlongbeforethoseintheStates。

QuebecandMontrealwereimportantcitiesbeforeanyofthetownsbelongingtotheStateshadbeenfounded。Buttakingthepopulationofthreeofeach，includingthethreelargestCanadiantowns，wefindtheyareasfollows:InCanada，Quebechas60，000；

Montreal，85，000；Toronto，55，000。IntheStates，Chicagohas120，000；Detroit，70，000；andBuffalo，80，000。Ifthepopulationhadbeenequal，itwouldhaveshownagreatsuperiorityintheprogressofthosebelongingtotheStates，becausethetownsofCanadahadsogreatastart。Butthenumbersarebynomeansequal，showinginsteadavastpreponderanceinfavoroftheStates。

TherecanbenostrongerproofthattheStatesareadvancingfasterthanCanada，andinfactdoingbetterthanCanada。

Quebecisaverypicturesquetown；fromitsnaturaladvantagesalmostasmuchsoasanytownIknow。Edinburgh，perhaps，andInnspruckmaybeatit。ButQuebechasverylittletorecommenditbeyondthebeautyofitssituation。Itspublicbuildingsandworksofartdonotdeservealongnarrative。ItstandsattheconfluenceoftheSt。LawrenceandSt。CharlesRivers；thebestpartofthetownisbuilthighupontherock——therockwhichformsthecelebratedplainsofAbram；andtheviewfromthencedowntothemountainswhichshutintheSt。Lawrenceismagnificent。Thebestpointofviewis，Ithink，fromtheesplanade，whichisdistantsomefiveminutes'walkfromthehotels。Whenthathasbeenseenbythelightofthesettingsun，andseenagain，ifpossible，bymoonlight，themostconsiderablelionofQuebecmayberegardedas“done，“andmaybetickedofffromthelist。

Themostconsiderablelion，accordingtomytaste。Lionswhichroarmerelybytheforceofassociationofideasarenottomeveryvaluablebeasts。TomanytherockoverwhichWolfeclimbedtotheplainsofAbram，andonthesummitofwhichhefellinthehourofvictory，givestoQuebecitschiefestcharm。ButIconfesstobeingsomewhatdullinsuchmatters。IcancountupWolfe，andrealizehisglory，andputmyhandasitwereuponhismonument，inmyownroomathomeaswellasIcanatQuebec。Idonotsaythisboastinglyorwithpride，buttrulyacknowledgingadeficiency。I

havenevercaredtositinchairsinwhicholdkingshavesat，ortohavetheircrownsuponmyhead。

Nevertheless，andasamatterofcourse，Iwenttoseetherock，andcanonlysay，assomanyhavesaidbeforeme，thatitisverysteep。ItisnotarockwhichIthinkitwouldbedifficultforanyordinarilyactivemantoclimb，providing，ofcourse，thathewasusedtosuchwork。ButWolfetookregimentsofmenupthereatnight，andthatinfaceofenemieswhoheldthesummits。Onegrievesthatheshouldhavefallenthereandhavenevertastedthesweetcupofhisownfame。Forfameissweet，andthepraiseofones'sbrothermenthesweetestdraughtwhichamancandrain。Butnow，andforcomingages，Wolfe'snamestandshigherthanitprobablywouldhavedonehadhelivedtoenjoyhisreward。

ButthereisanotherveryworthylionnearQuebec——theFalls，namely，ofMontmorency。Theyareeightmilesfromthetown，andtheroadliesthroughthesuburbofSt。Roch，andthelong，stragglingFrenchvillageofBeauport。Theseareinthemselvesveryinteresting，asshowingthequiet，orderly，unimpulsivemannerinwhichtheFrenchCanadianslive。Suchistheircharacter，althoughtherehavebeensuchmenasPapineau，andalthoughtherehavebeentimesinwhichEnglishrulehasbeenunpopularwiththeFrenchsettlers。AsfarasIcouldlearnthereisnosuchfeelingnow。Thesepeoplearequiet，contented；and，asregardsasufficiencyofthesimplestaplesofliving，sufficientlywelltodo。Theyarethrifty，buttheydonotthrive。Theydonotadvance，andpushahead，andbecomeabiggerpeoplefromyeartoyear，assettlersinanewcountryshoulddo。Theydonotevenholdtheirownincomparisonwiththosearoundthem。ButhasnotthisalwaysbeenthecasewithcolonistsoutofFrance；andhasitnotalwaysbeenthecasewithRomanCatholicswhentheyhavebeenforcedtomeasurethemselvesagainstProtestants？Astotheultimatefateintheworldofthispeople，onecanhardlyformaspeculation。Thereare，asnearlyasIcouldlearn，about800，000

oftheminLowerCanada；butitseemsthatthewealthandcommercialenterpriseofthecountryispassingoutoftheirhands。

Montreal，andevenQuebec，are，Ithink，becominglessandlessFrencheveryday；butinthevillagesandonthesmallfarmstheFrenchstillremain，keepinguptheirlanguage，theirhabits，andtheirreligion。Inthecitiestheyarebecominghewersofwoodanddrawersofwater。Iaminclinedtothinkthatthesamewillultimatelybetheirfateinthecountry。SurelyonemaydeclareasafactthataRomanCatholicpopulationcanneverholditsgroundagainstonethatisProtestant。Idonotspeakofnumbers；fortheRomanCatholicswillincreaseandmultiply，andstickbytheirreligion，althoughtheirreligionentailspovertyanddependence，astheyhavedoneandstilldoinIreland。ButinprogressandwealththeRomanistshavealwaysgonetothewallwhenthetwohavebeenmadetocompetetogether。AndyetIlovetheirreligion。

Thereissomethingbeautiful，andalmostdivine，inthefaithandobedienceofatruesonoftheHolyMother。IsometimesfancythatIwouldfainbeaRomanCatholic——ifIcould；asalsoIwouldoftenwishtobestillachild——ifthatwerepossible。

AllthisisonthewaytotheFallsofMontmorency。Thesefallsareplacedexactlyatthemouthofthelittleriverofthesamename，sothatitmaybesaidabsolutelytofallintotheSt。

Lawrence。Thepeopleofthecountry，however，declarethattheriverintowhichthewatersoftheMontmorencyfallisnottheSt。

Lawrence，buttheCharles。WithoutamapIdonotknowthatIcanexplainthis。TheRiverCharlesappearsto，andinfactdoes，runintotheSt。LawrencejustbelowQuebec。Butthewatersdonotmix。Thethicker，brownerstreamofthelesserriverstillkeepsthenortheasternbanktillitcomestotheIslandofOrleans，whichliesintheriverfiveorsixmilesbelowQuebec。HereorhereaboutsaretheFallsoftheMontmorency，andthenthegreatriverisdividedfortwenty-fivemilesbytheIsleofOrleans。ItissaidthatthewatersoftheCharlesandtheSt。Lawrencedonotmixtilltheymeeteachotheratthefootofthisisland。

IdonotknowthatIamparticularlyhappyatdescribingawaterfall，andwhatlittlecapacityImayhaveinthiswayIwouldwishtokeepforNiagara。OnethingIcansayverypositivelyaboutMontmorency，andonepieceofadviceIcangivetothosewhovisitthefalls。TheplacefromwhichtoseethemisnotthehorriblelittlewoodentemplewhichhasbeenbuiltimmediatelyoverthemonthatsidewhichliesnearesttoQuebec。Thestrangerisputdownatagatethroughwhichapathleadstothistemple，andatwhichawomandemandsfromhimtwenty-fivecentsfortheprivilegeofentrance。Lethimbyallmeanspaythetwenty-fivecents。Whyshouldheattempttoseethefallsfornothing，seeingthatthiswomanhasavestedinterestintheshowingofthem？I

declarethatifIthoughtthatIshouldhinderthiswomanfromherperquisitesbywhatIwrite，Iwouldleaveitunwritten，andletmyreaderspursuetheircoursetothetemple——totheirmanifestinjury。Buttheywillpaythetwenty-fivecents。Thenletthemcrossoverthebridge，eschewingthetemple，andwanderroundontheopenfieldtilltheygettheviewofthefalls，andtheviewofQuebecalso，fromtheotherside。Itisworththetwenty-fivecentsandthehireofthecarriagealso。Immediatelyoverthefallstherewasasuspensionbridge，ofwhichthesupporting，orrathernon-supporting，pillarsarestilltobeseen。Butthebridgefelldown，oneday，intotheriver；and——alas！alas！——withthebridgefelldownanoldwoman，andaboy，andacart——acartandhorse——andallfoundawaterygravetogetherinthespray。Noattempthasbeenmadesincethattorenewthesuspensionbridge；

butthepresentwoodenbridgehasbeenbuilthigherupinlieuofit。

StrangersnaturallyvisitQuebecinsummerorautumn，seeingthataCanadawinterisaseasonwithwhichamancannottrifle；butI

imaginethatthemid-winteristhebesttimeforseeingtheFallsofMontmorency。Thewaterinitsfallisdashedintospray，andthatspraybecomesfrozen，tillaconeoficeisformedimmediatelyunderthecataract，whichgraduallyrisestillthetemporaryglacierreachesnearlyhalfwaytothelevelofthehigherriver。

Upthismenclimb——andladiesalso，Iamtold——andthendescend，withpleasantrapidity，onsledgesofwood，sometimesnotwithoutaninnocenttumbleinthedescent。AswewereatQuebecinSeptember，wedidnotexperiencethedelightsofthispastime。

AsIwastooearlyfortheiceconeundertheMontmorencyFalls，soalsowasItoolatetovisittheSaguenayRiver，whichrunsintotheSt。LawrencesomehundredmilesbelowQuebec。IpresumethatthesceneryoftheSaguenayisthefinestinCanada。DuringthesummersteamersrundowntheSt。LawrenceanduptheSaguenay，butIwastoolateforthem。AnofferwasmadetousthroughthekindnessofSirEdmundHead，whowasthentheGovernor-General，oftheuseofasteam-tugbelongingtoagentlemanwhocarriesonalargecommercialenterpriseatChicoutimi，faruptheSaguenay；butanacceptanceofthisofferwouldhaveentailedsomedelayatQuebec，and，aswewereanxioustogetintotheNorthwesternStatesbeforethewintercommenced，wewereobligedwithgreatregrettodeclinethejourney。

Ifeelboundtosaythatastranger，regardingQuebecmerelyasatown，findsverymuchofwhichhecannotbutcomplain。Thefootpathsthroughthestreetsarealmostentirelyofwood，asindeedseemstobegeneralthroughoutCanada。Woodis，ofcourse，thecheapestmaterial；and，thoughitmaynotbealtogethergoodforsuchapurpose，itwouldnotcreateanimadversionifitwerekeptintolerableorder。ButinQuebecthepathsareintolerablybad。Theyarefullofholes。Theboardsarerotten，andworninsomeplacestodirt。Thenailshavegone，andthebrokenplanksgoupanddownunderthefeet，andinthedarktheyareabsolutelydangerous。Butifthepathsarebad，theroad-waysareworse。Thestreetthroughthelowertownalongthequaysis，Ithink，themostdisgracefulthoroughfareIeversawinanytown。Ibelievethewholeofit，oratanyrateagreatportion，hasbeenpavedwithwood；buttheboardshavebeenworkedintomud，andthegroundundertheboardshasbeenworkedintoholes，tillthestreetismorelikethebottomofafilthyditchthanaroad-waythroughoneofthemostthicklypopulatedpartsofacity。HadQuebecinWolfe'stimebeenasitisnow，Wolfewouldhavestuckinthemudbetweentheriverandtherockbeforehereachedthepointwhichhedesiredtoclimb。Intheuppertowntheroadsarenotasbadastheyarebelow，butstilltheyareverybad。Iwastoldthatthisarosefromdisputesamongthemunicipalcorporations。EverythinginCanadarelatingtoroads，andaverygreatdealaffectingtheinternalgovernmentofthepeople，isdonebythesemunicipalities。

ItismadeasubjectofgreatboastinCanadathatthecommunalauthoritiesdocarryonsolargeapartofthepublicbusiness，andthattheydoitgenerallysowellandatsocheaparate。Ihavenothingtosayagainstthis，and，asawhole，believethattheboastistrue。Imustprotest，however，thatthestreetsofthegreatercities——forMontrealisnearlyasbadasQuebec——provetherulebyaverysadexception。ThemunicipalitiesofwhichIspeakextend，Ibelieve，toallCanada——thetwoprovincesbeingdividedintocounties，andthecountiessubdividedintotownships，towhich，asamatterofcourse，themunicipalitiesareattached。

FromQuebectoMontrealtherearetwomodesoftravel。TherearethesteamersuptheSt。Lawrence，which，asalltheworldknow，is，oratanyratehithertohasbeen，thehigh-roadoftheCanadas；andthereistheGrandTrunkRailway。PassengerschoosingthelattergotowardPortlandasfarasRichmond，andtherejointhemainlineoftheroad，passingfromRichmondontoMontreal。WelearnedwhileatQuebecthatitbehoovedusnottoleavethecolonytillwehadseenthelakeandmountainsofMemphremagog；and，aswewereclearlyneglectingourdutywithregardtotheSaguenay，wefeltboundtomakesuchamendsaslayinourpowerbydeviatingfromourwaytothelakeabovenamed。Inordertodothiswewereobligedtochoosetherailway，andtogobackbeyondRichmondtothestationatSherbrooke。SherbrookeisalargevillageontheconfinesofCanada，and，asitisontherailway，willnodoubtbecomealargetown。Itisveryprettilysituatedonthemeetingoftworivers；ithasthreeorfourchurches，andintendstothrive。Itpossessestwonewspapers，oftheprosperityofwhichI

shouldbeinclinedtofeellessassured。Theannualsubscriptiontosuchanewspaper，publishedtwiceaweek，istenshillings。A

saleofathousandcopiesisnotconsideredbad。Suchasalewouldproduce500poundsayear；andthiswould，ifentirelydevotedtothatpurpose，giveamoderateincometoagentlemanqualifiedtoconductanewspaper。Butthepaperandprintingmustcostsomething，andthecapitalinvestedshouldreceiveitsproperremuneration。Andthen——suchatleastisthegeneralidea——thegettingtogetherofnewsandtheframingofintelligenceisacostlyoperation。Icanonlyhopethatallthisispaidforbytheadvertisements，forImusttrustthattheeditorsdonotreceivelessthanthemoderatesumabovenamed。AtSherbrookewearestillinLowerCanada。Indeed，asregardsdistance，wearewhentherenearlyasfarremovedfromUpperCanadaasatQuebec。Buttheraceofpeoplehereisverydifferent。TheFrenchpopulationhadmadetheirwaydownintothesetownshipsbeforetheEnglishandAmericanwarbrokeout，buthadnotdonesoingreatnumbers。Thecountrywasthenveryunapproachable，beingfartothesouthoftheSt。

Lawrence，andfaralsofrom-anygreatlineofinternalcommunicationtowardtheAtlantic。But，nevertheless，manysettlersmadetheirwayinherefromtheStates——menwhopreferredtoliveunderBritishrule，andperhapsdoubtedthestabilityoftheneworderofthings。Theyortheirchildrenhaveremainedheresince；and，asthewholecountryhasbeenopenedupbytherailway，manyothershaveflockedin。ThusabetterclassofpeoplethantheFrenchholdpossessionofthelargerfarms，andareonthewholedoingwell。IamtoldthatmanyAmericansarenowcominghere，drivenoverthebordersfromMaine，NewHampshire，andVermontbyfearsofthewarandtheweightoftaxation。Idonotthinkthatfearsofwarorthepayingoftaxesdrivemanyindividualsawayfromhome。Menwhowouldbesoinfluencedhavenottheamountofforesightwhichwouldinducethemtoavoidsuchevils；or，atanyrate，suchfearswouldactslowly。Laborers，however，willgowhereworkiscertain，whereworkiswellpaid，andwherethewagestobeearnedwillgiveplentyinreturn。ItmaybethatworkwillbecomescarceintheStates，asithasdonewiththosepoorjewelersatAttleboroughofwhomwespoke，andthatfoodwillbecomedear。Ifthisbeso，laborersfromtheStateswillnodoubtfindtheirwayintoCanada。

FromSherbrookewewentwiththemailsonapair-horsewagontoMagog。Cross-countrymailsarenotinterestingtothegeneralityofreaders，butIhaveaprofessionallikingforthemmyself。I

havespentthebestpartofmylifeinlookingafter，andIhopeinimproving，suchmails；andIalwaysendeavortodoastrokeofworkwhenIcomeacrossthem。Ilearnedonthisoccasionthattheconveyanceofmailswithapairofhorses，inCanada，costslittlemorethanhalfwhatispaidforthesameworkinEnglandwithonehorse，andsomethinglessthanwhatispaidinIreland，alsoforonehorse。ButinCanadatheaveragepaceisonlyfivemilesanhour。InIrelanditisseven，andthetimeisaccuratelykept，whichdoesnotseemtobethecaseinCanada。InEnglandthepaceiseightmilesanhour。InCanadaandinIrelandtheseconveyancescarrypassengers；butinEnglandtheyareprohibitedfromdoingso。

InCanadathevehiclesaremuchbettergotupthantheyareinEngland，andthehorsestoolookbetter。TakingIrelandasawhole，theyaremorerespectableinappearancetherethaninEngland。Fromallwhichitappearsthatpaceisthearticlethatcoststhehighestprice，andthatappearancedoesnotgoformuchinthebill。InCanadatheroadsareverybadincomparisonwiththeEnglishorIrishroads；but，tomakeupforthis，thepriceofforageisverylow。

Ihavesaidthatthecross-mailconveyancesinCanadadidnotseemtobeverycloselyboundastotime；buttheyareregulatedbyclock-workincomparisonwithsomeofthemintheUnitedStates。

“Areyougoingthismorning？“Isaidtoamail-driverinVermont。

“Ithoughtyoualwaysstartedintheevening。““Wa'll，IguessI

do；butitrainedsomelastnight，soIjiststayedathome。“IdonotknowthatIeverfeltmoreshockedinmylife，andIcouldhardlykeepmytongueofftheman。Themails，however，wouldhavepaidnorespecttomeinVermont，andIwasobligedtowalkawaycrest-fallen。

WewentwiththemailsfromSherbrooketoavillagecalledMagog，attheoutletofthelake，andfromthencebyasteamerupthelake，toasolitaryhotelcalledtheMountainHouse，whichisbuiltatthefootofthemountain，ontheshore，andwhichissurroundedoneverysidebythickforest。Thereisnoroadwithintwomilesofthehouse。Thelakethereforeistheonlyhighway，andthatisfrozenupforfourmonthsintheyear。Whenfrozen，however，itisstillaroad，foritispassableforsledges。Ihaveseldombeeninahousethatseemedsoremotefromtheworld，andsolittlewithinreachofdoctors，parsons，orbutchers。Bakersinthiscountryarenotrequired，asallpersonsmaketheirownbread。Butinspiteofitspositionthehoteliswellkept，andonthewholeweweremorecomfortabletherethanatanyotherinninLowerCanada。TheMountainhouseisbutfivemilesfromthebordersofVermont，inwhichStatetheheadofthelakelies。ThesteamerwhichbroughtusrunsontoNewport，orratherfromNewporttoMagogandbackagain。AndNewportisinVermont。

TheonethingtobedoneattheMountainHouseistheascentofthemountaincalledtheOwl'shead。Theworldthereoffersnothingelseofactiveenterprisetothetraveler，unlessfishingbeconsideredanactiveenterprise。Iamnotcapableoffishing，thereforeweresolvedongoinguptheOwl'sHead。Todineinthemiddleofthedayisabsolutelyimperativeatthesehotels，andthusweweredriventoselecteitherthemorningortheafternoon。

Eveninglightswedeclaredwerethebestforallviews，andthereforewedecidedontheafternoon。Itisbuttwomiles；butthen，asweweretoldmorethanoncebythosewhohadspokentousonthesubject，thosetwomilesarenotlikeothermiles。“Idoubtiftheladycandoit，“onemansaidtome。Iaskedifladiesdidnotsometimesgoup。“Yes；youngwomendo，attimes，“hesaid。

AfterthatmywiferesolvedthatshewouldseethetopoftheOwl'sHead，ordieintheattempt，andsowestarted。Theyneverthinkofsendingaguidewithoneintheseplaces，whereasinEuropeatravelerisnotallowedtogoastepwithoutone。WhenIaskedforonetoshowusthewayupMountWashington，Iwastoldthattherewerenoidleboysaboutthatplace。Thepathwasindicatedtous，andoffwestartedwithhighhopes。

Ihavebeenupmanymountains，andhaveclimbedsomethatwereperhapssomewhatdangerousintheirascent。InclimbingtheOwl'sHeadthereisnodanger。Oneisclosedinbythicktreesthewholeway。ButIdoubtifIeverwentupasteeperascent。Itwasveryhardwork，butwewerenotbeaten。Wereachedthetop，andtheresittingdown，thoroughlyenjoyedourvictory。Itwasthenhalf-

pastfiveo'clock，andthesunwasnotyetabsolutelysinking。Itdidnotseemtogiveusanywarningthatweshouldespeciallyrequireitsaid，and，astheprospectbelowuswasverylovely，weremainedthereforaquarterofanhour。TheascentoftheOwl'sHeadiscertainlyathingtodo，andIstillthink，inspiteofourfollowingmisfortune，thatitisathingtodolateintheafternoon。Theviewdownuponthelakesandtheforestsaround，andonthewoodedhillsbelow，iswonderfullylovely。Ineverwasonamountainwhichgavemeamoreperfectcommandofallthecountryround。ButaswearosetodescendwesawalittlecloudcomingtowardusfromoverNewport。

Thelittlecloudcameonwithspeed，andwehadhardlyfreedourselvesfromtherocksofthesummitbeforeweweresurroundedbyrain。Astherainbecamethicker，weweresurroundedbydarknessalso，or，ifnotbydarkness，bysodimalightthatitbecameatasktofindourpath。Istillthoughtthatthedaylighthadnotgone，andthataswedescended，andsoescapedfromthecloud，weshouldfindlightenoughtoguideus。Butitwasnotso。Therainsoonbecameamatterofindifference，andsoalsodidthemudandbriersbeneathourfeet。Eventhesteepnessofthewaywasalmostforgottenasweendeavoredtothreadourpaththroughtheforestbeforeitshouldbecomeimpossibletodiscernthetrack。Adoghadfollowedusup，andthoughthebeastwouldnotstaywithussoastobeourguide，hereturnedeverandanon，andmadeusawareofhispresencebydashingbyus。ImayconfessnowthatIbecamemuchfrightened。Wewerewetthrough，andanightoutintheforestwouldhavebeenunpleasanttous。AtlastIdidutterlylosethetrack，ithadbecomequitedark，sodarkthatwecouldhardlyseeeachother。Wehadsucceededingettingdownthesteepestandworstpartofthemountain，butwewerestillamongdenseforesttrees，anduptoourkneesinmud。ButthepeopleattheMountainhousewereChristians，andmenwithlanternsweresenthallooingafterusthroughthedarknight。Whenwewerethusfoundwewerenotmanyyardsfromthepath，butunfortunatelyonthewrongsideofastream。Throughthatwewaded，andthenmadeourwayinsafetytotheinn。InspiteofwhichmisadventureIadvisealltravelersinLowerCanadatogouptheOwl'sHead。

OnthefollowingdaywecrossedthelaketoGeorgeville，anddrovearoundanotherlakecalledtheMassawhippibacktoSherbrooke。

Thiswasallverywell，foritshowedusapartofthecountrywhichiscomparativelywelltilled，andhasbeenlongsettled；buttheMassawhippiitselfisnotworthavisit。Theroutebywhichwereturnedoccupiesalongertimethantheother，andismorecostly，asitmustbemadeinahiredvehicle。Thepeopleherearequiet，orderly，andIshouldsayalittleslow。ItismanifestthatastrongfeelingagainsttheNorthernStateshaslatelysprungup。

Thisismuchtobedeprecated，butIcannotbutsaythatitisnatural。ItisnotthattheCanadianshaveanyspecialsecessionfeelings，orthattheyhaveenteredwithpeculiarwarmthintothequestionsofAmericanpolitics；buttheyhavebeenvexedandacerbatedbythebraggadociooftheNorthernStates。Theyconstantlyhearthattheyaretobeinvaded，andtranslatedintocitizensoftheUnion；thatBritishruleistobesweptoffthecontinent，andthatthestar-spangledbanneristobewavedovertheminpity。Thestar-spangledbannerisinfactafineflag，andhaswavedtosomepurpose；butthosewholivenearit，andnotunderit，fancythattheyheartoomuchofit。AtthepresentmomenttheloyaltyofboththeCanadastoGreatBritainisbeyondallquestion。FromallthatIcanhear，Idoubtwhetherthisfeelingintheprovinceswaseversostrong，andundersuchcircumstancesAmericanabuseofEnglandandAmericanbraggadocioismorethanusuallydistasteful。AllthisabuseandallthisbraggadociocometoCanadafromtheNorthernStates，andthereforetheSoutherncauseisatthepresentmomentthemorepopularwiththem。

IhavesaidthattheCanadianshereaboutsaresomewhatslow。AsweweredrivingbacktoSherbrookeitbecamenecessarythatweshouldrestforanhourorsointhemiddleoftheday，andforthispurposewestoppedatavillageinn。Itwasalargehouse，inwhichthereappearedtobethreepublicsitting-roomsofamplesize，oneofwhichwasoccupiedasthebar。Inthistherewerecongregatedsomesixorsevenmen，seatedinarm-chairsroundastove，andamongtheseIplacedmyself。Noonespokeawordeithertomeortoanyoneelse。Noonesmoked，andnooneread，nordidtheyevenwhittlesticks。Iaskedaquestion，firstofoneandthenofanother，andwasansweredwithmonosyllables。SoIgaveupanyhopeinthatdirection，andsatstaringatthebigstoveinthemiddleoftheroom，astheothersdid。Presentlyanotherstrangerentered，havingarrivedinawagon，asIhaddone。Heenteredtheroomandsatdown，addressingnoone，andaddressedbynoone。

Afterawhile，however，hespoke。“Willtherebeanychanceofdinnerhere？“hesaid。“Iguessthere'llbedinnerby-and-by，“

answeredthelandlord，andthentherewassilenceforanothertenminutes，duringwhichthestrangerstaredatthestove。“Isthatdinneranywayready？“heaskedagain。“Iguessitis，“saidthelandlord。Andthenthestrangerwentouttoseeafterhisdinnerhimself。Whenwestarted，attheendofanhour，nobodysaidanythingtous。Thedriver“hitched“onthehorses，astheycallit，andwestartedonourway，havingbeenchargednothingforouraccommodation。Thatsomeprofitarosefromthehorseprovenderistobehoped。

OnthefollowingdaywereachedMontreal，which，asIhavesaidbefore，isthecommercialcapitalofthetwoProvinces。ThisquestionofthecapitalsisatthepresentmomentasubjectofgreatinterestinCanada；but，asIshallbedriventosaysomethingonthematterwhenIreportmyselfasbeingatOttawa，I

willrefrainnow。TherearetwospecialpublicaffairsatthepresentmomenttointerestatravelerinCanada。ThefirstIhavenamed，andthesecondistheGrandTrunkRailway。Ihavealreadystatedwhatisthecourseofthisline。ItrunsfromtheWesternStateofMichigantoPortland，ontheAtlantic，intheStateofMaine，sweepingthewholelengthofCanadainitsroute。Itwasoriginallymadebythreecompanies。TheAtlanticandSt。LawrenceconstructeditfromPortlandtoIslandPond，onthebordersoftheStates。TheSt。LawrenceandAtlantictookitfromthesoutheasternsideoftheriveratMontrealtothesamepoint，viz。，IslandPond。AndtheGrandTrunkCompanyhavemadeitfromDetroittoMontreal，crossingtherivertherewithastupendoustubularbridge，andhavealsomadethebranchconnectingthemainlinewithQuebecandRiviereduLoup。ThislattercompanyisnowincorporatedwiththeSt。LawrenceandAtlantic，buthasonlyleasedtheportionofthelinerunningthroughtheStates。Thistheyhavedone，guaranteeingtheshareholdersaninterestofsixpercent。Thereneverwasagranderenterprisesetonfoot。I

willnotsaythereneverwasonemoreunfortunate，foristherenottheGreatEastern，which，bytheweightandconstancyofitsfailures，demandsforitselfaproudpre-eminenceofmisfortune？

ButsurelytheGrandTrunkcomesnexttoit。Ipresumeittobequiteoutofthequestionthattheshareholdersshouldgetanyinterestwhateverontheirsharesforyears。Thecompany，whenI

wasatMontreal，hadnotpaidtheinterestduetotheAtlanticandSt。LawrenceCompanyforthelastyear，andtherewasadoubtwhethertheleasewouldnotbebroken。Nopartythathadadvancedmoneytotheundertakingwasabletorecoverwhathadbeenadvanced。IbelievethatonefirminLondonhadlentnearlyamilliontothecompany，andisnowwillingtoaccepthalfthesumsolentinquittanceofthewholedebt。In1860thelinecouldnotcarrythefreightthatoffered，nothavingorbeingabletoobtainthenecessaryrollingstock；andonallsidesIheardmendiscussingwhetherthelinewouldbekeptopenfortraffic。ThegovernmentofCanadaadvancedtothecompanythreemillionsofmoney，withanunderstandingthatneitherinterestnorprincipalshouldbedemandedtillallotherdebtswerepaidandallshareholdersinreceiptofsixpercent。interest。Butthethreemillionswerecloggedwithconditionswhich，thoughtheyhavebeenofservicetothecountry，havebeensoexpensivetothecompanythatitishardlymoresolventwithitthanitwouldhavebeenwithoutit。Asitis，thewholepropertyseemstobeinvolvedinruin；andyetthelineisoneofthegrandestcommercialconceptionsthatwasevercarriedoutonthefaceoftheglobe，andintheprocessofafewyearswilldomoretomakebreadcheapinEnglandthananyothersingleenterprisethatexists。

Idonotknowthatblameistobeattachedtoanyone。Iatleastattachnosuchblame。Probablyitmightbeeasynowtoshowthattheroadmighthavebeenmadewithsufficientaccommodationforordinarypurposeswithoutsomeofthemorecostlydetails。Thegreattubularbridge，onwhichwasexpended1，300，000pounds，might，Ishouldthink，havebeendispensedwith。TheDetroitendofthelinemighthavebeenleftforlatertime。Asitstandsnow，however，itisawonderfuloperationcarriedtoasuccessfulissueasfarasthepublicareconcerned；andonecanon]ygrievethatitshouldbesoabsoluteafailuretothosewhohaveplacedtheirmoneyinit。Thereareschemeswhichseemtobetoobigformentoworkoutwithanyordinaryregardtoprofitandloss。TheGreatEasternisone，andthisisanother。Thenationaladvantagearisingfromsuchenterprisesisimmense；butthewonderisthatmenshouldbefoundwillingtoembarktheirmoneywheretheriskissogreatandthereturnevenhopedforissosmall。

WhileIwasinCanadasomegentlemenweretherefromtheLowerProvinces——NovaScotia，thatis，andNewBrunswick——agitatingthesubjectofanothergreatlineofrailway，fromQuebectoHalifax。

Theprojectisoneinfavorofwhichverymuchmaybesaid。InanationalpointofviewanEnglishmanoraCanadiancannotbutregretthatthereshouldbenowintermodeofexitfrom，orentranceto，Canada，exceptthroughtheUnitedStates。TheSt。

Lawrenceisblockedupforfourorfivemonthsinwinter，andthesteamerswhichruntoQuebecinthesummerruntoPortlandduringtheseasonofice。ThereisatpresentnomodeofpublicconveyancebetweentheCanadasandtheLowerProvinces；andanimmensedistrictofcountryonthebordersofLowerCanada，throughNewBrunswick，andintoNovaScotia，isnowabsolutelyclosedagainstcivilization，whichbysucharailwaywouldbeopeneduptothelightofday。WeallknowhowmuchthewantofsucharoadwasfeltwhenourtroopswerebeingforwardedtoCanadaduringthelastwinter。Itwasnecessarytheyshouldreachtheirdestinationwithoutdelay；andastheriverwasclosed，andthepassingoftroopsthroughtheStateswasofcourseoutofthequestion，thatlongoverlandjourneyacrossNovaScotiaandNewBrunswickbecameanecessity。ItwouldcertainlybeaverygreatthingforBritishinterestsifadirectlinecouldbemadefromsuchaportasHalifax，aportwhichisopenthroughoutthewholeyear，upintotheCanadas。IfthesecoloniesbelongedtoFranceortoanyotherdespoticgovernment，thethingwouldbedone。Butthecoloniesdonotbelongtoanydespoticgovernment。

Suchalinewould，infact，beacontinuanceoftheGrandTrunk；

andwhothatlooksatthepresentstateofthefinancesoftheGrandTrunkcanthinkittobeonthecardsthatprivateenterpriseshouldcomeforwardwithmoremoney——withmoremillions？TheideaisthatEnglandwilladvancethemoney，andthattheEnglishHouseofCommonswillguaranteetheinterest，withsomecounter-guaranteefromthecoloniesthatthisinterestshallbedulypaid。Butitwouldseemthat，ifsuchcolonialguaranteeistogoforanything，thecoloniesmightraisethemoneyinthemoneymarketwithouttheinterventionoftheBritishHouseofCommons。

Montrealisanexceedinglygoodcommercialtown，andbusinessthereisbrisk。Ithasnow85，000inhabitants。Havingsaidthatofit，Idonotknowwhatmorethereislefttosay。Yes；onewordthereistosayofSirWilliamLogan，thecreatoroftheGeologicalMuseumthere，andtheheadofallmattersgeologicalthroughouttheprovince。Whilehewasexplainingtomewithadmirableperspicuitytheresultofinvestigationsintowhichhehadpouredhiswholeheart，Istoodby，understandingalmostnothing，butenvyingeverything。ThatIunderstoodalmostnothing，Iknowheperceived。

That，everandanon，withallhisgraciousness，becameapparent。

ButIwonderwhetherheperceivedalsothatIdidenvyeverything。

Ihavelistenedtogeologistsbythehourbefore——havehadtolistentothem，desiroussimplyofescape。Ihavelistened，andunderstoodabsolutelynothing，andhaveonlywishedmyselfaway。

【推荐阅读】幽幽深宫，醒来一梦似千年，重生于下堂妃身躯中的她，将如何手刃仇人? 点击阅读