EarlyintheafternoonwearrivedatTabókan，thefirstvillageoftheHillDyaks。Onanopenspaceneartheriver，abouttwentyboyswereplayingatagamesomethinglikewhatwecall"prisoner'sbase；"theirornamentsofbeadsandbrasswireandtheirgay-colouredkerchiefsandwaist-clothsshowingtomuchadvantage，andformingaverypleasingsight。OnbeingcalledbyBujon，theyimmediatelylefttheirgametocarrymythingsuptothe"headhouse，"——acircularbuildingattachedtomostDyakvillages，andservingasalodgingforstrangers，theplacefortrade，thesleeping-roomoftheunmarriedyouths，andthegeneralcouncil-chamber。Itiselevatedonloftyposts，hasalargefireplaceinthemiddleandwindowsintheroofallround，andformsaverypleasantandcomfortableabode。Intheeveningitwascrowdedwithyoungmenandboys，whocametolookatme。Theyweremostlyfineyoungfellows，andIcouldnothelpadmiringthesimplicityandeleganceoftheircostume。Theironlydressisthelong"chawat，"orwaist-cloth，whichhangsdownbeforeandbehind。Itisgenerallyofbluecotton，endinginthreebroadbandsofred，blue，andwhite。Thosewhocanafforditwearahandkerchiefonthehead，whichiseitherred，withanarrowborderofgoldlace，orofthreecolours，likethe"chawat。"Thelargeflatmoon-shapedbrassearrings，theheavynecklaceofwhiteorblackbeads，rowsofbrassringsonthearmsandlegs，andarmletsofwhiteshell，allservetorelieveandsetoffthepurereddishbrownskinandjet-blackhair。Addtothisthelittlepouchcontainingmaterialsforbetel-chewing，andalongslenderknife，bothinvariablywornattheside，andyouhavetheeverydaydressoftheyoungDyakgentleman。
The"OrangKaya，"orrichman，asthechiefofthetribeiscalled，nowcameinwithseveraloftheoldermen；andthe"bitchara"ortalkcommenced，aboutgettingaboatandmentotakemeonthenextmorning。AsIcouldnotunderstandawordoftheirlanguage，whichisverydifferentfromMalay，Itooknopartintheproceedings，butwasrepresentedbymyboyBujon，whotranslatedtomemostofwhatwassaid。AChinesetraderwasinthehouse，andhe，too，wantedmenthenextday；butonhishintingthistotheOrangKaya，hewassternlytoldthatawhiteman'sbusinesswasnowbeingdiscussed，andhemustwaitanotherdaybeforehiscouldbethoughtabout。
Afterthe"bitchara"wasoverandtheoldchiefsgone，Iaskedtheyoungmentoplayordance，oramusethemselvesintheiraccustomedway；andaftersomelittlehesitationtheyagreedtodoso。Theyfirsthadatrialofstrength，twoboyssittingoppositeeachother，footbeingplacedagainstfoot，andastoutstickgraspedbyboththeirhands。Eachthentriedtothrowhimselfback，soastoraisehisadversaryupfromtheground，eitherbymainstrengthorbyasuddeneffort。Thenoneofthemenwouldtryhisstrengthagainsttwoorthreeoftheboys；andafterwardstheyeachgraspedtheirownanklewithahand，andwhileonestoodasfirmashecould，theotherswunghimselfaroundononeleg，soastostriketheother'sfreeleg，andtrytooverthrowhim。Whenthesegameshadbeenplayedallaroundwithvaryingsuccess，wehadanovelkindofconcert。Someplacedalegacrosstheknee，andstruckthefingerssharplyontheankle，othersbeattheirarmsagainsttheirsideslikeacockwhenheisgoingtocrow，thismakingagreatvarietyofclappingsounds，whileanotherwithhishandunderhisarmpitproducedadeeptrumpetnote；and，astheyallkepttimeverywell，theeffectwasbynomeansunpleasing。Thisseemedquiteafavouriteamusementwiththem，andtheykeptitupwithmuchspirit。
Thenextmorningwestartedinaboataboutthirtyfeetlong，andonlytwenty-eightincheswide。Thestreamheresuddenlychangesitscharacter。Hitherto，thoughswift，ithadbeendeepandsmooth，andconfinedbysteepbanks。Nowitrushedandrippledoverapebbly，sandy，orrockybed，occasionallyformingminiaturecascadesandrapids，andthrowingupononesideortheotherbroadbanksoffinelycolouredpebbles。Nopaddlingcouldmakewayhere，buttheDyakswithbamboopolespropelledusalongwithgreatdexterityandswiftness，neverlosingtheirbalanceinsuchanarrowandunsteadyvessel，thoughstandingupandexertingalltheirforce。Itwasabrilliantday，andthecheerfulexertionsofthemen，therushingofthesparklingwaters，withthebrightandvariedfoliage，whichfromeitherbankstretchedoverourheads，producedanexhilaratingsensationwhichrecalledmycanoevoyagesonthegranderwatersofSouthAmerica。
EarlyintheafternoonwereachedthevillageofBorotói，and，thoughitwouldhavebeeneasytoreachthenextonebeforenight，Iwasobligedtostay，asmymenwantedtoreturnandotherscouldnotpossiblygoonwithmewithoutthepreliminarytalking。Besides，awhitemanwastoogreatararitytobeallowedtoescapethem，andtheirwiveswouldneverhaveforgiventhemif，whentheyreturnedfromthefields，theyfoundthatsuchacuriosityhadnotbeenkeptforthemtosee。OnenteringthehousetowhichIwasinvited，acrowdofsixtyorseventymen，women，andchildrengatheredaroundme，andIsatforhalfanhourlikesomestrangeanimalsubmittedforthefirsttimetothegazeofaninquiringpublic。Brassringswerehereinthegreatestprofusion，manyofthewomenhavingtheirarmscompletelycoveredwiththem，aswellastheirlegsfromtheankletotheknee。
Roundthewaisttheywearadozenormorecoilsoffinerattanstainedred，towhichthepetticoatisattached。Belowthisaregenerallyanumberofcoilsofbrasswire，agirdleofsmallsilvercoins，andsometimesabroadbeltofbrassringarmour。Ontheirheadstheywearaconicalhatwithoutacrown，formedofvariouslycolouredbeads，keptinshapebyringsofrattan，andformingafantasticbutnotunpicturesqueheaddress。
Walkingouttoasmallhillnearthevillage，cultivatedasarice-field，Ihadafineviewofthecountry，whichwasbecomingquitehilly，andtowardsthesouth，mountainous。Itookbearingsandsketchesofallthatwasvisible，anoperationwhichcausedmuchastonishmenttotheDyakswhoaccompaniedme，andproducedarequesttoexhibitthecompasswhenIreturned。Iwasthensurroundedbyalargercrowdthanbefore，andwhenItookmyeveningmealinthemidstofacircleofaboutahundredspectatorsanxiouslyobservingeverymovementandcriticisingeverymouthful，mythoughtsinvoluntarilyrecurredtothelionatfeedingtime。Likethosenobleanimals，Itoowasusedtoit，anditdidnotaffectmyappetite。ThechildrenhereweremoreshythanatTabokan，andIcouldnotpersuadethemtoplay。I
thereforeturnedshowmanmyself，andexhibitedtheshadowofadog'sheadeating，whichpleasedthemsomuchthatallthevillageinsuccessioncameouttoseeit。The"rabbitonthewall"doesnotdoinBorneo，asthereisnoanimalitresembles。
Theboyshadtopsshapedsomethinglikewhipping-tops，butspunwithastring。
Thenextmorningweproceededasbefore，buttheriverhadbecomesorapidandshallowandtheboatswereallsosmall，thatthoughIhadnothingwithmebutachangeofclothes，agun，andafewcookingutensils，twowererequiredtotakemeon。Therockwhichappearedhereandthereontheriverbankwasaninduratedclay-slate，sometimescrystalline，andthrownupalmostvertically。Rightandleftofusroseisolatedlimestonemountains，theirwhiteprecipicesglisteninginthesunandcontrastingbeautifullywiththeluxuriantvegetationthatelsewhereclothedthem。Theriverbedwasamassofpebbles，mostlypurewhitequartz，butwithabundanceofjasperandagate，presentingabeautifullyvariegatedappearance。ItwasonlyteninthemorningwhenwearrivedatBudu，and，thoughtherewereplentyofpeopleabout，Icouldnotinducethemtoallowmetogoontothenextvillage。TheOrangKayasaidthatifIinsistedonhavingmen，ofcoursehewouldgetthem，butwhenItookhimathiswordandsaidImusthavethem，therecameafreshremonstrance；
andtheideaofmygoingonthatdayseemedsopainfulthatIwasobligedtosubmit。Ithereforewalkedoutovertherice-fields，whicharehereveryextensive，coveringanumberofthelittlehillsandvalleysintowhichthewholecountryseemsbrokenup，andobtainedafineviewofhillsandmountainsineverydirection。
IntheeveningtheOrangKayacameinfulldress(aspangledvelvetjacket，butnotrowsers)，andinvitedmeovertohishouse，wherehegavemeaseatofhonourunderacanopyofwhitecalicoandcolouredhandkerchiefs。Thegreatverandahwascrowdedwithpeople，andlargeplatesofricewithcookedandfresheggswereplacedonthegroundaspresentsforme。Averyoldmanthendressedhimselfinbright-colouredclothsandmanyornaments，andsittingatthedoor，murmuredalongprayerorinvocation，sprinklingricefromabasinheheldinhishand，whileseverallargegongswereloudlybeatenandasaluteofmusketsfiredoff。Alargejarofricewine，verysourbutwithanagreeableflavour，wasthenhandedaround，andIaskedtoseesomeoftheirdances。Thesewere，likemostsavageperformances，verydullandungracefulaffairs；themendressingthemselvesabsurdlylikewomen，andthegirlsmakingthemselvesasstiffandridiculousaspossible。AllthetimesixoreightlargeChinesegongswerebeingbeatenbythevigorousarmsofasmanyyoungmen，producingsuchadeafeningdiscordthatIwasgladtoescapetotheroundhouse，whereIsleptverycomfortablywithhalfadozensmoke-driedhumanskullssuspendedovermyhead，Theriverwasnowsoshallowthatboatscouldhardlygetalong。I
thereforepreferredwalkingtothenextvillage，expectingtoseesomethingofthecountry，butwasmuchdisappointed，asthepathlayalmostentirelythroughdensebamboothickets。TheDyaksgettwocropsoffthegroundinsuccession；oneofrice，andtheotherofsugarcane，maize，andvegetables。Thegroundthenliesfalloweightortenyears，andbecomescoveredwithbamboosandshrubs，whichoftencompletelyarchoverthepathandshutouteverythingfromtheview。Threehours'walkingbroughtustothevillageofSenankan，whereIwasagainobligedtoremainthewholeday，whichIagreedtodoonthepromiseoftheOrangKayathathismenshouldnextdaytakemethroughtwoothervillagesacrosstoSenna，attheheadoftheSarawakRiver。IamusedmyselfasIbestcouldtillevening，bywalkingaboutthehighgroundnear，togetviewsofthecountryandbearingsofthechiefmountains。Therewasthenanotherpublicaudience，withgiftsofriceandeggs，anddrinkingofricewine。TheseDyakscultivateagreatextentofground，andsupplyagooddealofricetoSarawak。Theyarerichingongs，brasstrays，wire，silvercoins，andotherarticlesinwhichaDyak'swealthconsists；andtheirwomenandchildrenareallhighlyornamentedwithbeadnecklaces，shells，andbrasswire。
InthemorningIwaitedsometime，butthementhatweretoaccompanymedidnotmaketheirappearance。OnsendingtotheOrangKayaIfoundthatbothheandanotherhead-manhadgoneoutfortheday，andoninquiringthereasonwastoldthattheycouldnotpersuadeanyoftheirmentogowithmebecausethejourneywaslongandfatiguingone。AsIwasdeterminedtogeton，Itoldthefewmenthatremainedthatthechiefshadbehavedverybadly，andthatIshouldacquainttheRajahwiththeirconduct，andI
wantedtostartimmediately。Everymanpresentmadesomeexcuse，butothersweresentfor，andbyhintofthreatsandpromises，andtheexertionofallBujon'seloquence，wesucceededingettingoffaftertwohours'delay。
Forthefirstfewmilesourpathlayoveracountryclearedforrice-fields，consistingentirelyofsmallbutdeepandsharply-
cutridgesandvalleyswithoutayardoflevelground。AftercrossingtheKayanriver，amainbranchoftheSadong，wegotontothelowerslopesoftheSeboranMountain，andthepathlayalongasharpandmoderatelysteepridge，affordinganexcellentviewofthecountry。ItsfeatureswereexactlythoseoftheHimalayasinminiature，astheyaredescribedbyDr。Hookerandothertravellers，andlookedlikeanaturalmodelofsomepartsofthosevastmountainsonascaleofaboutatenth——thousandsoffeetbeinghererepresentedbyhundreds。Inowdiscoveredthesourceofthebeautifulpebbleswhichhadsopleasedmeintheriverbed。Theslateyrockshadceased，andthesemountainsseemedtoconsistofasandstoneconglomerate，whichwasinsomeplacesameremassofpebblescementedtogether。Imighthaveknownthatsuchsmallstreamscouldnotproducesuchvastquantitiesofwell-roundedpebblesoftheveryhardestmaterials。Theyhadevidentlybeenformedinpastages，bytheactionofsomecontinentalstreamorseabeach，beforethegreatislandofBorneohadrisenfromtheocean。Theexistenceofsuchasystemofhillsandvalleysreproducinginminiatureallthefeaturesofagreatmountainregion，hasanimportantbearingonthemoderntheorythattheformofthegroundismainlyduetoatmosphericratherthantosubterraneanaction。Whenwehaveanumberofbranchingvalleysandravinesrunninginmanydifferentdirectionswithinasquaremile，itseemshardlypossibletoimputetheirformation，oreventheirorigination，torentsandfissuresproducedbyearthquakes。Ontheotherhand，thenatureoftherock，soeasilydecomposedandremovedbywater，andtheknownactionoftheabundanttropicalrains，areinthiscase，atleast，quitesufficientcausesfortheproductionofsuchvalleys。Buttheresemblancebetweentheirformsandoutlines，theirmodeofdivergence，andtheslopesandridgesthatdividethem，andthoseofthegrandmountainsceneryoftheHimalayas，issoremarkable，thatweareforciblyledtotheconclusionthattheforcesatworkinthetwocaseshavebeenthesame，differingonlyinthetimetheyhavebeeninaction，andthenatureofthematerialtheyhavehadtoworkupon。
AboutnoonwereachedthevillageofMenyerry，beautifullysituatedonaspurofthemountainabout600feetabovethevalley，andaffordingadelightfulviewofthemountainsofthispartofBorneo。IheregotasightofPenrissenMountain，attheheadoftheSarawakRiver，andoneofthehighestinthedistrict，risingtoabout6，000feetabovethesea。TothesouththeRowan，andfurtherofftheUntowanMountainsintheDutchterritoryappearedequallylofty。DescendingfromMenyerryweagaincrossedtheKayan，whichbendsroundthespur，andascendedtothepasswhichdividestheSadongandSarawakvalleys，andwhichisabout2，000feethigh。Thedescentfromthispointwasveryfine。Astream，deepinarockygorge，rushedoneachsideofus，tooneofwhichwegraduallydescended，passingovermanylateralgullysandalongthefacesofsomeprecipicesbymeansofnativebamboobridges。Someofthesewereseveralhundredfeetlongandfiftyorsixtyhigh，asinglesmoothbamboofourinchesdiameterformingtheonlypathway，whileaslenderhandrailofthesamematerialwasoftensoshakythatitcouldonlybeusedasaguideratherthanasupport。
LateintheafternoonwereachedSodos，situatedonaspurbetweentwostreams，butsosurroundedbyfruittreesthatlittlecouldbeseenofthecountry。Thehousewasspacious，cleanandcomfortable，andthepeopleveryobliging。Manyofthewomenandchildrenhadneverseenawhitemanbefore，andwereveryscepticalastomybeingthesamecolourallover，asmyface。
Theybeggedmetoshowthemmyarmsandbody，andtheyweresokindandgood-temperedthatIfeltboundtogivethemsomesatisfaction，soIturnedupmytrousersandletthemseethecolourofmyleg，whichtheyexaminedwithgreatinterest。
Inthemorningearlywecontinuedourdescentalongafinevalley，withmountainsrising2，000or3，000feetineverydirection。ThelittleriverrapidlyincreasedinsizeuntilwereachedSerma，whenithadbecomeafinepebblystreamnavigableforsmallcanoes。Hereagaintheupheavedslateyrockappeared，withthesamedipanddirectionasintheSadongRiver。Oninquiringforaboattotakemedownthestream，IwastoldthattheSennaDyaks，althoughlivingontheriver-banks，nevermadeorusedboats。Theyweremountaineerswhohadonlycomedownintothevalleyabouttwentyyearsbefore，andhadnotyetgotintonewhabits。TheyareofthesametribeasthepeopleofMenyerryandSodos。Theymakegoodpathsandbridges，andcultivatemuchmountainland，andthusgiveamorepleasingandcivilizedaspecttothecountrythanwherethepeoplemoveaboutonlyinboats，andconfinetheircultivationtothebanksofthestreams。
AftersometroubleIhiredaboatfromaMalaytrader，andfoundthreeDyakswhohadbeenseveraltimeswithMalaystoSarawak，andthoughttheycouldmanageitverywell。Theyturnedoutveryawkward，constantlyrunningaground，strikingagainstrocks，andlosingtheirbalancesoasalmosttoupsetthemselvesandtheboat——offeringastrikingcontrasttotheskilloftheSeaDyaks。
Atlengthwecametoareallydangerousrapidwhereboatswereoftenswamped，andmymenwereafraidtopassit。SomeMalayswithaboatloadofricehereovertookus，andaftersafelypassingdownkindlysentbackoneoftheirmentoassistme。Asitwas，myDyakslosttheirbalanceinthecriticalpartofthepassage，andhadtheybeenalonewouldcertainlyhaveupsettheboat。Therivernowbecameexceedinglypicturesque，thegroundoneachsidebeingpartiallyclearedforricefields，affordingagoodviewofthecountry。Numerouslittlegranarieswerebuilthighupintreesoverhangingtheriver，andhavingabamboobridgeslopinguptothemfromthebank；andhereandtherebamboosuspensionbridgecrossedthestream，whereoverhangingtreesfavouredtheirconstruction。
IsleptthatnightinthevillageoftheSebungowDyaks，andthenextdayreachedSarawak，passingthroughamostbeautifulcountrywherelimestonemountainswiththeirfantasticformsandwhiteprecipicesslotuponeveryside，drapedandfestoonedwithaluxuriantvegetation。ThebanksoftheSarawakRiverareeverywherecoveredwithfruittrees，whichsupplytheDyakswithagreatdealoftheirfood。TheMangosteen，Lansat，Rambutan，Jack，Jambou，andBlimbing，areallabundant；butmostabundantandmostesteemedistheDurian，afruitaboutwhichverylittleisknowninEngland，butwhichbothbynativesandEuropeansintheMalayArchipelagoisreckonedsuperiortoallothers。TheoldtravellerLinschott，writingin1599，says："Itisofsuchanexcellenttastethatitsurpassesinflavouralltheotherfruitsoftheworld，accordingtothosewhohavetastedit。"AndDoctorPaludanusadds："Thisfruitisofahotandhumidnature。Tothosenotusedtoit，itseemsatfirsttosmelllikerottenonions，butimmediatelywhentheyhavetastedit，theypreferittoallotherfood。Thenativesgiveithonourabletitles，exaltit，andmakeversesonit。"Whenbroughtintoahousethesmellisoftensooffensivethatsomepersonscanneverbeartotasteit。ThiswasmyowncasewhenIfirsttrieditinMalacca，butinBorneoI
foundaripefruitontheground，and，eatingitoutofdoors，I
atoncebecameaconfirmedDurianeater。
TheDuriangrowsonalargeandloftyforesttree，somewhatresemblinganelminitsgeneralcharacter，butwithamoresmoothandscalybark。Thefruitisroundorslightlyoval，aboutthesizeofalargecocoanut，ofagreencolour，andcoveredalloverwithshortstoutspinesthebasesofwhichtoucheachother，andareconsequentlysomewhathexagonal，whilethepointsareverystrongandsharp。Itissocompletelyarmed，thatifthestalkisbrokenoffitisadifficultmattertoliftonefromtheground。Theouterrindissothickandtough，thatfromwhateverheightitmayfallitisneverbroken。Fromthebasetotheapexfiveveryfaintlinesmaybetraced，overwhichthespinesarchalittle；thesearethesuturesofthecarpels，andshowwherethefruitmaybedividedwithaheavyknifeandastronghand。Thefivecellsaresatinywhitewithin，andareeachfilledwithanovalmassofcream-colouredpulp，imbeddedinwhicharetwoorthreeseedsaboutthesizeofchestnuts。Thispulpistheeatablepart，anditsconsistencyandflavourareindescribable。Arichbutter-likecustardhighlyflavouredwithalmondsgivesthebestgeneralideaofit，butintermingledwithitcomewaftsofflavourthatcalltomindcream-cheese，onion-sauce，brownsherry，andotherincongruities。Thenthereisarichglutinoussmoothnessinthepulpwhichnothingelsepossesses，butwhichaddstoitsdelicacy。Itisneitheracid，norsweet，norjuicy；
yetonefeelsthewantofmoreofthesequalities，foritisperfectasitis。Itproducesnonauseaorotherbadeffect，andthemoreyoueatofitthelessyoufeelinclinedtostop。InfacttoeatDuriansisanewsensation，worthavoyagetotheEasttoexperience。
Whenthefruitisripeitfallsofitself，andtheonlywaytoeatDuriansinperfectionistogetthemastheyfall；andthesmellisthenlessoverpowering。Whenunripe，itmakesaverygoodvegetableifcooked，anditisalsoeatenbytheDyaksraw。
Inagoodfruitseasonlargequantitiesarepreservedsalted，injarsandbamboos，andkepttheyearround，whenitacquiresamostdisgustingodourtoEuropeans，buttheDyaksappreciateithighlyasarelishwiththeirrice。ThereareintheforesttwovarietiesofwildDurianswithmuchsmallerfruits，oneofthemorange-colouredinside；andtheseareprobablytheoriginofthelargeandfineDurians，whichareneverfoundwild。Itwouldnot，perhaps，becorrecttosaythattheDurianisthebestofallfruits，becauseitcannotsupplytheplaceofthesubacidjuicykinds，suchastheorange，grape，mango，andmangosteen，whoserefreshingandcoolingqualitiesaresowholesomeandgrateful；butasproducingafoodofthemostexquisiteflavour，itisunsurpassed。IfIhadtofixontwoonly，asrepresentingtheperfectionofthetwoclasses，IshouldcertainlychoosetheDurianandtheOrangeasthekingandqueenoffruits。
TheDurianis，however，sometimesdangerous。Whenthefruitbeginstoripenitfallsdailyandalmosthourly，andaccidentsnotunfrequentlyhappentopersonswalkingorworkingunderthetrees。WhenaDurianstrikesamaninitsfall，itproducesadreadfulwound，thestrongspinestearingopentheflesh，whiletheblowitselfisveryheavy；butfromthisverycircumstancedeathrarelyensues，thecopiouseffusionofbloodpreventingtheinflammationwhichmightotherwisetakeplace。ADyakchiefinformedmethathehadbeenstruckdownbyaDurianfallingonhishead，whichhethoughtwouldcertainlyhavecausedhisdeath，yetherecoveredinaveryshorttime。
Poetsandmoralists，judgingfromourEnglishtreesandfruits，havethoughtthatsmallfruitsalwaysgrewonloftytrees，sothattheirfallshouldbeharmlesstoman，whilethelargeonestrailedontheground。Twoofthelargestandheaviestfruitsknown，however，theBrazil-nutfruit(Bertholletia)andDurian，growonloftyforesttrees，fromwhichtheyfallassoonastheyareripe，andoftenwoundorkillthenativeinhabitants。Fromthiswemaylearntwothings：first，nottodrawgeneralconclusionsfromaverypartialviewofnature；andsecondly，thattreesandfruits，nolessthanthevariedproductionsoftheanimalkingdom，donotappeartobeorganizedwithexclusivereferencetotheuseandconvenienceofman。
DuringmymanyjourneysinBorneo，andespeciallyduringmyvariousresidencesamongtheDyaks，IfirstcametoappreciatetheadmirablequalitiesoftheBamboo。InthosepartsofSouthAmericawhichIhadpreviouslyvisited，thesegiganticgrasseswerecomparativelyscarce；andwherefoundbutlittleused，theirplacebeingtakenastooneclassofusesbythegreatvarietyofPalms，andastoanotherbycalabashesandgourds。AlmostalltropicalcountriesproduceBamboos，andwherevertheyarefoundinabundancethenativesapplythemtoavarietyofuses。Theirstrength，lightness，smoothness，straightness，roundnessandhollowness，thefacilityandregularitywithwhichtheycanbesplit，theirmanydifferentsizes，thevaryinglengthoftheirjoints，theeasewithwhichtheycanbecutandwithwhichholescanbemadethroughthem，theirhardnessoutside，theirfreedomfromanypronouncedtasteorsmell，theirgreatabundance，andtherapidityoftheirgrowthandincrease，areallqualitieswhichrenderthemusefulforahundreddifferentpurposes，toservewhichothermaterialswouldrequiremuchmorelabourandpreparation。TheBambooisoneofthemostwonderfulandmostbeautifulproductionsofthetropics，andoneofnature'smostvaluablegiftstouncivilizedman。
TheDyakhousesareallraisedonposts，andareoftentwoorthreehundredfeetlongandfortyorfiftywide。ThefloorisalwaysformedofstripssplitfromlargeBamboos，sothateachmaybenearlyflatandaboutthreeincheswide，andthesearefirmlytieddownwithrattantothejoistsbeneath。Whenwellmade，thisisadelightfulfloortowalkuponbarefooted，theroundedsurfacesofthebamboobeingverysmoothandagreeabletothefeet，whileatthesametimeaffordingafirmhold。But，whatismoreimportant，theyformwithamatoverthemanexcellentbed，theelasticityoftheBambooanditsroundedsurfacebeingfarsuperiortoamorerigidandaflatterfloor。HereweatoncefindauseforBamboowhichcannotbesuppliedsowellbyanothermaterialwithoutavastamountoflabour——palmsandothersubstitutesrequiringmuchcuttingandsmoothing，andnotbeingequallygoodwhenfinished。When，however，aflat，closefloorisrequired，excellentboardsaremadebysplittingopenlargeBamboosononesideonly，andflatteningthemoutsoastoformslabseighteenincheswideandsixfeetlong，withwhichsomeDyaksfloortheirhouses。Thesewithconstantrubbingofthefeetandthesmokeofyearsbecomedarkandpolished，likewalnutoroldoak，sothattheirrealmaterialcanhardlyberecognised。
Whatlabourisheresavedtoasavagewhoseonlytoolsareanaxeandaknife，andwho，ifhewantsboards，musthewthemoutofthesolidtrunkofatree，andmustgivedaysandweeksoflabourtoobtainasurfaceassmoothandbeautifulastheBamboothustreatedaffordshim。Again，ifatemporaryhouseiswanted，eitherbythenativeinhisplantationorbythetravellerintheforest，nothingissoconvenientastheBamboo，withwhichahousecanbeconstructedwithaquarterofthelabourandtimethanifothermaterialsareused。
AsIhavealreadymentioned，theHillDyaksintheinteriorofSarawakmakepathsforlongdistancesfromvillagetovillageandtotheircultivatedgrounds，inthecourseofwhichtheyhavetocrossmanygulliesandravines，andevenrivers；orsometimes，toavoidalongcircuit，tocarrythepathalongthefaceofaprecipice。InallthesecasesthebridgestheyconstructareofBamboo，andsoadmirablyadaptedisthematerialforthispurpose，thatitseemsdoubtfulwhethertheyeverwouldhaveattemptedsuchworksiftheyhadnotpossessedit。TheDyakbridgeissimplebutwelldesigned。ItconsistsmerelyofstoutBambooscrossingeachotherattheroad-wayliketheletterX，andrisingafewfeetaboveit。Atthecrossingtheyarefirmlyboundtogether，andtoalargeBamboowhichlaysuponthemandformstheonlypathway，withaslenderandoftenveryshakyonetoserveasahandrail。Whenariveristobecrossed，anoverhangingtreeischosenfromwhichthebridgeispartlysuspendedandpartlysupportedbydiagonalstrutsfromthebanks，soastoavoidplacingpostsinthestreamitself，whichwouldbeliabletobecarriedawaybyfloods。Incarryingapathalongthefaceofaprecipice，treesandrootsaremadeuseofforsuspension；strutsarisefromsuitablenotchesorcrevicesintherocks，andifthesearenotsufficient，immenseBamboosfiftyorsixtyfeetlongarefixedonthebanksoronthebranchofatreebelow。Thesebridgesaretraverseddailybymenandwomencarryingheavyloads，sothatanyinsecurityissoondiscovered，and，asthematerialsarecloseathand，immediatelyrepaired。
Whenapathgoesoververysteepground，andbecomesslipperyinverywetorverydryweather，theBambooisusedinanotherway。
Piecesarecutaboutayardlong，andoppositenotchesbeingmadeateachend，holesareformedthroughwhichpegsaredriven，andfirmandconvenientstepsarethusformedwiththegreatesteaseandcelerity。Itistruethatmuchofthiswilldecayinoneortwoseasons，butitcanbesoquicklyreplacedastomakeitmoreeconomicalthanusingaharderandmoredurablewood。
OneofthemoststrikingusestowhichBambooisappliedbytheDyaks，istoassisttheminclimbingloftytreesbydrivinginpegsinthewayIhavealreadydescribedatpage85。Thismethodisconstantlyusedinordertoobtainwax，whichisoneofthemostvaluableproductsofthecountry。Thehoney-beeofBorneoverygenerallyhangsitscombsunderthebranchesoftheTappan，atreewhichtowersaboveallothersintheforest，andwhosesmoothcylindricaltrunkoftenrisesahundredfeetwithoutabranch。TheDyaksclimbtheseloftytreesatnight，buildinguptheirBambooladderastheygo，andbringingdowngigantichoneycombs。Thesefurnishthemwithadeliciousfeastofhoneyandyoungbees，besidesthewax，whichtheyselltotraders，andwiththeproceedsbuythemuch-covetedbrasswire，earrings，andbold-edgedhandkerchiefswithwhichtheylovetodecoratethemselves。InascendingDurianandotherfruittreeswhichbranchatfromthirtytofiftyfeetfromtheground，IhaveseenthemusetheBamboopegsonly，withouttheuprightBamboowhichrendersthemsomuchmoresecure。
TheouterrindoftheBamboo，splitandshavedthin，isthestrongestmaterialforbaskets；hen-coops，bird-cages，andconicalfish-trapsareveryquicklymadefromasinglejoint，bysplittingofftheskininnarrowstripsleftattachedtooneend，whileringsofthesamematerialorofrattanaretwistedinatregulardistances。WaterisbroughttothehousesbylittleaqueductsformedoflargeBamboossplitinhalfandsupportedoncrossedsticksofvariousheightssoastogiveitaregularfall。Thinlong-jointedBamboosformtheDyaks'onlywater-
vessels，andadozenofthemstandinthecornerofeveryhouse。
Theyareclean，light，andeasilycarried，andareinmanywayssuperiortoearthenvesselsforthesamepurpose。Theyalsomakeexcellentcookingutensils；vegetablesandricecanbeboiledinthemtoperfection，andtheyareoftenusedwhentravelling。
Saltedfruitorfish，sugar，vinegar，andhoneyarepreservedintheminsteadofinjarsorbottles。InasmallBamboocase，prettilycarvedandornamented，theDyakcarrieshissirihandlimeforbetelchewing，andhislittlelong-bladedknifehasaBamboosheath。Hisfavouritepipeisahugehubble-bubble，whichhewillconstructinafewminutesbyinsertingasmallpieceofBambooforabowlobliquelyintoalargecylinderaboutsixinchesfromthebottomcontainingwater，throughwhichthesmokepassestoalongslenderBambootube。TherearemanyothersmallmattersforwhichBambooisdailyused，butenoughhasnowbeenmentionedtoshowitsvalue。InotherpartsoftheArchipelagoI
havemyselfseenitappliedtomanynewuses，anditisprobablethatmylimitedmeansofobservationdidnotmakemeacquaintedwithone-halfthewaysinwhichitisserviceabletotheDyaksofSarawak。
WhileuponthesubjectofplantsImayherementionafewofthemorestrikingvegetableproductionsofBorneo。ThewonderfulPitcher-plants，formingthegenusNepenthesofbotanists，herereachtheirgreatestdevelopment。Everymountain-topaboundswiththem，runningalongtheground，orclimbingovershrubsandstuntedtrees；theirelegantpitchershangingineverydirection。
Someofthesearelongandslender，resemblinginformthebeautifulPhilippinelace-sponge(Euplectella)，whichhasnowbecomesocommon；othersarebroadandshort。Theircoloursaregreen，variouslytintedandmottledwithredorpurple。ThefinestyetknownwereobtainedonthesummitofKini-balou，inNorth-westBorneo。Oneofthebroadsort，Nepenthesrajah，willholdtwoquartsofwaterinitspitcher。Another，NepenthesEdwardsiania，hasanarrowpitchertwentyincheslong；whiletheplantitselfgrowstoalengthoftwentyfeet。
Fernsareabundant，butarenotsovariedasonthevolcanicmountainsofJava；andTree-fernsareneithersoplentifulnorsolargeasonthatisland。Theygrow，however，quitedowntothelevelofthesea，andaregenerallyslenderandgracefulplantsfromeighttofifteenfeethigh。WithoutdevotingmuchtimetothesearchIcollectedfiftyspeciesofFernsinBorneo，andI
havenodoubtagoodbotanistwouldhaveobtainedtwicethenumber。TheinterestinggroupofOrchidsisveryabundant，but，asisgenerallythecase，nine-tenthsofthespecieshavesmallandinconspicuousflowers。AmongtheexceptionsarethefineCoelogynes，whoselargeclustersofyellowflowersornamentthegloomiestforests，andthatmostextraordinaryplant，VandaLowii，whichlastisparticularlyabundantnearsomehotspringsatthefootofthePenin-jauhMountain。Itgrowsonthelowerbranchesoftrees，anditsusstrangependantflower-spiresoftenhangdownsoasalmosttoreachtheground。Thesearegenerallysixoreightfeetlong，bearinglargeandhandsomeflowersthreeinchesacross，andvaryingincolourfromorangetored，withdeeppurple-redspots。Imeasuredonespike，whichreachedtheextraordinarylengthofninefeeteightinches，andborethirty-
sixflowers，spirallyarrangeduponaslenderthread-likestalk。
SpecimensgrowninourEnglishhot-houseshaveproducedflower-
spiresofequallength，andwithamuchlargernumberofblossoms。
Flowerswerescarce，asisusualinequatorialforests，anditwasonlyatrareintervalsthatImetwithanythingstriking。A
fewfineclimbersweresometimesseen，especiallyahandsomecrimsonandyellowAeschynanthus，andafineleguminousplantwithclustersoflargeCassia-likeflowersofarichpurplecolour。OnceIfoundanumberofsmallAnonaceoustreesofthegenusPolyalthea，producingamoststrikingeffectinthegloomyforestshades。Theywereaboutthirtyfeethigh，andtheirslendertrunkswerecoveredwithlargestar-likecrimsonflowers，whichclusteredoverthemlikegarlands，andresembledsomeartificialdecorationmorethananaturalproduct。
Theforestsaboundwithgigantictreeswithcylindrical，buttressed，orfurrowedstems，whileoccasionallythetravellercomesuponawonderfulfig-tree，whosetrunkisitselfaforestofstemsandaerialroots。Stillmorerarelyarefoundtreeswhichappeartohavebegungrowinginmid-air，andfromthesamepointsendoutwide-spreadingbranchesaboveandacomplicatedpyramidofrootsdescendingforseventyoreightyfeettothegroundbelow，andsospreadingoneveryside，thatonecanstandintheverycentrewiththetrunkofthetreeimmediatelyoverhead。TreesofthischaracterarefoundallovertheArchipelago，andtheaccompanyingillustration(takenfromonewhichIoftenvisitedintheAruIslands)willconveysomeideaoftheirgeneralcharacter。Ibelievethattheyoriginateasparasites，fromseedscarriedbybirdsanddroppedintheforkofsomeloftytree。Hencedescendaerialroots，claspingandultimatelydestroyingthesupportingtree，whichisintimeentirelyreplacedbythehumbleplantwhichwasatfirstdependentuponit。Thuswehaveanactualstruggleforlifeinthevegetablekingdom，notlessfataltothevanquishedthanthestrugglesamonganimalswhichwecansomuchmoreeasilyobserveandunderstand。Theadvantageofquickeraccesstolightandwarmthandair，whichisgainedinonewaybyclimbingplants，ishereobtainedbyaforesttree，whichhasthemeansofstartinginlifeatanelevationwhichotherscanonlyattainaftermanyyearsofgrowth，andthenonlywhenthefallofsomeothertreehasmaderoomforthen。Thusitisthatinthewarmandmoistandequableclimateofthetropics，eachavailablestationisseizeduponandbecomesthemeansofdevelopingnewformsoflifeespeciallyadaptedtooccupyit。
OnreachingSarawakearlyinDecember，IfoundtherewouldnotbeanopportunityofreturningtoSingaporeuntilthelatterendofJanuary。IthereforeacceptedSirJamesBrooke'sinvitationtospendaweekwithhimandMr。St。JohnathiscottageonPeninjauh。
Thisisaverysteeppyramidalmountainofcrystallinebasalticrock，aboutathousandfeethigh，andcoveredwithluxuriantforest。TherearethreeDyakvillagesuponit，andonalittleplatformnearthesummitistherudewoodenlodgewheretheEnglishRajahwasaccustomedtogoforrelaxationandcoolfreshair。Itisonlytwentymilesuptheriver，buttheroadupthemountainisasuccessionofladdersonthefaceofprecipices，bamboobridgesovergulliesandchasms，andslipperypathsoverrocksandtree-trunksandhugebouldersasbigashouses。Acoolspringunderanoverhangingrockjustbelowthecottagefurnisheduswithrefreshingbathsanddeliciousdrinkingwater，andtheDyaksbroughtusdailyheaped-upbasketsofMangosteensandLansats，twoofthemostdeliciousofthesubacidtropicalfruits。WereturnedtoSarawakforChristmas(thesecondIhadspentwithSirJamesBrooke)，whenalltheEuropeansbothinthetownandfromtheout-stationsenjoyedthehospitalityoftheRajah，whopossessedinapre-eminentdegreetheartofmakingeveryonearoundhimcomfortableandhappy。
AfewdaysafterwardsIreturnedtothemountainwithCharlesandaMalayboynamedAliandstayedtherethreeweeksforthepurposeofmakingacollectionofland-shells，butterfliesandmoths，fernsandorchids。Onthehillitselffernsweretolerablyplentiful，andImadeacollectionofaboutfortyspecies。ButwhatoccupiedmemostwasthegreatabundanceofmothswhichoncertainoccasionsIwasabletocapture。Asduringthewholeofmyeightyears'wanderingsintheEastIneverfoundanotherspotwheretheseinsectswereatallplentiful，itwillbeinterestingtostatetheexactconditionsunderwhichIhereobtainedthem。
Ononesideofthecottagetherewasaverandah，lookingdownthewholesideofthemountainandtoitssummitontheright，alldenselyclothedwithforest。Theboardedsidesofthecottagewerewhitewashed，andtheroofoftheverandahwaslow，andalsoboardedandwhitewashed。AssoonasitgotdarkIplacedmylamponatableagainstthewall，andwithpins，insect-forceps，net，andcollecting-boxesbymyside，satdownwithabook。Sometimesduringthewholeeveningonlyonesolitarymothwouldvisitme，whileonothernightstheywouldpourin，inacontinualstream，keepingmehardatworkcatchingandpinningtillpastmidnight。
Theycameliterallybythethousands。Thesegoodnightswereveryfew。DuringthefourweeksthatIspentaltogetheronthehillI
onlyhadfourreallygoodnights，andthesewerealwaysrainy，andthebestofthemsoakingwet。Butwetnightswerenotalwaysgood，forarainymoonlightnightproducednexttonothing。Allthechieftribesofmothswererepresented，andthebeautyandvarietyofthespecieswasverygreat。OngoodnightsIwasabletocapturefromahundredtotwohundredandfiftymoths，andthesecomprisedoneachoccasionfromhalftotwo-thirdsthatnumberofdistinctspecies。Someofthemwouldsettleonthewall，someonthetable，whilemanywouldflyuptotheroofandgivemeachaseallovertheverandahbeforeIcouldsecurethem。Inordertoshowthecuriousconnectionbetweenthestateofweatherandthedegreeinwhichmothswereattractedtolight，Iaddalistofmycaptureseachnightofmystayonthehill。
Date(1855)No。ofMothsRemarksDec。13th1Fine；starlight。
14th75Drizzlyandfog。
15th41Showery；cloudy。
16th158(120species。)Steadyrain。
17th82Wet；rathermoonlight。
18th9Fine；moonlight。
19th2Fine；clearmoonlight。
31st200(130species。)Darkandwindy；
heavyrain。
Date(1856)
Jan。1st185Verywet。
2d68Cloudyandshowers。
3d50Cloudy。
4th12Fine。
5th10Fine。
6th8Veryfine。
7th8Veryfine。
8th10Fine。
9th36Showery。
10th30Showery。
11th260Heavyrainallnight，anddark。
12th56Showery。
13th44Showery；somemoonlight。
14th4Fine；moonlight。
15th24Rain；moonlight。
16th6Showers；moonlight。
17th6Showers；moonlight。
18th1Showers；moonlight。
Total1，386
Itthusappearsthatontwenty-sixnightsIcollected1，386
moths，butthatmorethan800ofthemwerecollectedonfourverywetanddarknights。Mysuccesshereledmetohopethat，bysimilararrangements，Imightoneveryislandbeabletoobtainanabundanceoftheseinsects；but，strangetosay，duringthesixsucceedingyears，IwasneveronceabletomakeanycollectionsatallapproachingthoseatSarawak。ThereasonforthisIcanprettywellunderstandtobeowingtotheabsenceofsomeoneorotheressentialconditionthatwerehereallcombined。Sometimesthedryseasonwasthehindrance；morefrequentlyresidenceinatownorvillagenotclosetovirginforest，andsurroundedbyotherhouseswhoselightswereacounter-attraction；stillmorefrequentlyresidenceinadarkpalm-thatchedhouse，withaloftyroof，inwhoserecesseseverymothwaslosttheinstantitentered。Thislastwasthegreatestdrawback，andtherealreasonwhyIneveragainwasabletomakeacollectionofmoths；forI
neverafterwardslivedinasolitaryjungle-housewithalowboardedandwhitewashedverandah，soconstructedastopreventinsectsatonceescapingintotheupperpartofthehouse，quiteoutofreach。
Aftermylongexperience，mynumerousfailures，andmyonesuccess，Ifeelsurethatifanypartyofnaturalistsevermakeayacht-voyagetoexploretheMalayanArchipelago，oranyothertropicalregion，makingentomologyoneoftheirchiefpursuits，itwouldwellrepaythemtocarryasmallframedverandah，oraverandah-shapedtentofwhitecanvas，tosetupineveryfavourablesituation，asameansofmakingacollectionofnocturnalLepidoptera，andalsoofobtainingrarespecimensofColeopteraandotherinsects。Imakethesuggestionhere，becausenoonewouldsuspecttheenormousdifferenceinresultsthatsuchanapparatuswouldproduce；andbecauseIconsideritoneofthecuriositiesofacollector'sexperience，tohavefoundoutthatsomesuchapparatusisrequired。
WhenIreturnedtoSingaporeItookwithmetheMalayladnamedAli，whosubsequentlyaccompaniedmeallovertheArchipelago。
CharlesAllenpreferredstayingattheMission-house，andafterwardsobtainedemploymentinSarawakandinSingapore，untilheagainjoinedmefouryearslateratAmboynaintheMoluccas。
CHAPTERVI。
BORNEO——THEDYAKS。
THEmannersandcustomsoftheaboriginesofBorneohavebeendescribedingreatdetail，andwithmuchfullerinformationthanI
possess，inthewritingsofSirJamesBrooke，Messrs。Low，St。John，JohnsonBrooke，andmanyothers。Idonotproposetogooverthegroundagain，butshallconfinemyselftoasketch，frompersonalobservation，ofthegeneralcharacteroftheDyaks，andofsuchphysical，moral，andsocialcharacteristicsashavebeenlessfrequentlynoticed。
TheDyakiscloselyalliedtotheMalay，andmoreremotelytotheSiamese，Chinese，andotherMongolraces。Allthesearecharacterisedbyareddish-brownoryellowish-brownskinofvariousshades，byjet-
blackstraighthair，bythescantyordeficientbeard，bytherathersmallandbroadnose，andhighcheekbones；butnoneoftheMalayanraceshavetheobliqueeyeswhicharecharacteristicofthemoretypicalMongols。TheaveragestatureoftheDyaksisrathermorethanthatoftheMalays，whileitisconsiderablyunderthatofmostEuropeans。Theirformsarewellproportioned，theirfeetandhandssmall，andtheyrarelyorneverattainthebulkofbodysooftenseeninMalaysandChinese。
IaminclinedtoranktheDyaksabovetheMalaysinmentalcapacity，whileinmoralcharactertheyareundoubtedlysuperiortothem。Theyaresimpleandhonest，andbecomethepreyoftheMalayandChinesetrailers，whocheatandplunderthemcontinually。Theyaremorelively，moretalkative，lesssecretive，andlesssuspiciousthantheMalay，andarethereforepleasantercompanions。TheMalayboyshavelittleinclinationforactivesportsandgames，whichformquiteafeatureinthelifeoftheDyakyouths，who，besidesoutdoorgamesofskillandstrength，possessavarietyofindooramusements。Onewetday，inaDyakhouse，whenanumberofboysandyoungmenwereaboutme，Ithoughttoamusethemwithsomethingnew，andshowedthemhowtomake"cat'scradle"withapieceofstring。Greatlytomysurprise，theyknewallaboutit，andmorethanIdid；for，afterCharlesandIhadgonethroughallthechangeswecouldmake，oneoftheboystookitoffmyhand，andmadeseveralnewfigureswhichquitepuzzledme。Theythenshowedmeanumberofothertrickswithpiecesofstring，whichseemedafavouriteamusementwiththem。
EventheseapparentlytriflingmattersmayassistustoformatruerestimateoftheDyaks'characterandsocialcondition。Welearnthereby，thatthesepeoplehavepassedbeyondthatfirststageofsavagelifeinwhichthestruggleforexistenceabsorbsallofthefaculties，andinwhicheverythoughtandideaisconnectedwithwarorhunting，ortheprovisionfortheirimmediatenecessities。Theseamusementsindicateacapabilityofcivilization，anaptitudetoenjoyotherthanmeresensualpleasures，whichnightbetakenadvantageoftoelevatetheirwholeintellectualandsociallife。
ThemoralcharacteroftheDyaksisundoubtedlyhigh——astatementwhichwillseemstrangetothosewhohaveheardofthemonlyashead-huntersandpirates。TheHillDyaksofwhomIamspeaking，however，haveneverbeenpirates，sincetheynevergonearthesea；
andhead-huntingisacustomoriginatinginthepettywarsofvillagewithvillage，andtribewithtribe，whichnomoreimpliesabadmoralcharacterthandidthecustomoftheslave-tradeahundredyearsagoimplywantofgeneralmoralityinallwhoparticipatedinit。Againstthisonestainontheircharacter(whichinthecaseoftheSarawakDyaksnolongerexists)wehavetosetmanygoodpoints。Theyaretruthfulandhonesttoaremarkabledegree。Fromthiscauseitisveryoftenimpossibletogetfromthemanydefiniteinformation，orevenanopinion。Theysay，"IfIweretotellyonwhatIdon'tknow，Imighttellalie；"andwhenevertheyvoluntarilyrelateanymatteroffact，youmaybesuretheyarespeakingthetruth。InaDyakvillagethefruittreeshaveeachtheirowner，andithasoftenhappenedtome，onaskinganinhabitanttogathermesomefruit，tobeanswered，"Ican'tdothat，fortheownerofthetreeisnothere；"neverseemingtocontemplatethepossibilityofactingotherwise。NeitherwilltheytakethesmallestthingbelongingtoanEuropean。WhenlivingatSimunjon，theycontinuallycametomyhouse，andwouldpickupscrapsoftornnewspaperorcrookedpinsthatIhadthrownaway，andaskasagreatfavourwhethertheymighthavethem。
Crimesofviolence(otherthanhead-hunting)arealmostunknown；forintwelveyears，underSirJamesBrooke'srule，therehadbeenonlyonecaseofmurderinaDyaktribe，andthatonewascommittedbyastrangerwhohadbeenadoptedintothetribe。Inseveralothermattersofmoralitytheyrankabovemostuncivilized，andevenabovemanycivilizednations。Theyaretemperateinfoodanddrink，andthegrosssensualityoftheChineseandMalaysisunknownamongthem。
Theyhavetheusualfaultofallpeopleinahalf-savagestate——
apathyanddilatoriness，but，howeverannoyingthismaybetoEuropeanswhocomeincontactwiththem，itcannotbeconsideredaverygraveoffence，orbeheldtooutweightheirmanyexcellentqualities。
DuringmyresidenceamongtheHillDyaks，Iwasmuchstruckbytheapparentabsenceofthosecauseswhicharegenerallysupposedtochecktheincreaseofpopulation，althoughtherewereplainindicationsofstationaryorbutslowlyincreasingnumbers。Theconditionsmostfavourabletoarapidincreaseofpopulationare：anabundanceoffood，ahealthyclimate，andearlymarriages。Heretheseconditionsallexist。Thepeopleproducefarmorefoodthantheyconsume，andexchangethesurplusforgongsandbrasscannon，ancientjars，andgoldandsilverornaments，whichconstitutetheirwealth。
Onthewhole，theyappearveryfreefromdisease，marriagestakeplaceearly(butnottooearly)，andoldbachelorsandoldmaidsarealikeunknown。Why，then，wemustinquire，hasnotagreaterpopulationbeenproduced？WhyaretheDyakvillagessosmallandsowidelyscattered，whilenine-tenthsofthecountryisstillcoveredwithforest？
OfallthecheckstopopulationamongsavagenationsmentionedbyMalthus——starvation，disease，war，infanticide，immorality，andinfertilityofthewomen——thelastisthatwhichheseemstothinkleastimportant，andofdoubtfulefficacy；andyetitistheonlyonethatseemstomecapableofaccountingforthestateofthepopulationamongtheSarawakDyaks。ThepopulationofGreatBritainincreasessoastodoubleitselfinaboutfiftyyears。Todothisitisevidentthateachmarriedcouplemustaveragethreechildrenwholivetobemarriedattheageofabouttwenty-five。Addtothesethosewhodieininfancy，thosewhonevermarry，orthosewhomarrylateinlifeandhavenooffspring，thenumberofchildrenborntoeachmarriagemustaveragefourorfive，andweknowthatfamiliesofsevenoreightareverycommon，andoftenandtwelvebynomeansrare。ButfrominquiriesatalmosteveryDyaktribeIvisited，I
ascertainedthatthewomenrarelyhadmorethanthreeorfourchildren，andanoldchiefassuredmethathehadneverknownawomantohavemorethanseven。
Inavillageconsistingofahundredandfiftyfamilies，onlyoneconsistedofsixchildrenliving，andonlysixoffivechildren，themajorityoffamiliesappearingtobetwo，three，orfour。
ComparingthiswiththeknownproportionsinEuropeancountries，itisevidentthatthenumberofchildrentoeachmarriagecanhardlyaveragemorethanthreeorfour；andasevenincivilizedcountrieshalfthepopulationdiebeforetheageoftwenty-five，weshouldhaveonlytwolefttoreplacetheirparents；andsolongasthisstateofthingscontinued，thepopulationmustremainstationary。Ofcoursethisisamereillustration；butthefactsIhavestatedseemtoindicatethatsomethingofthekindreallytakesplace；andifso，thereisnodifficultyinunderstandingthesmallnessandalmoststationarypopulationoftheDyaktribes。
Wehavenexttoinquirewhatisthecauseofthesmallnumberofbirthsandoflivingchildreninafamily。Climateandracemayhavesomethingtodowiththis，butamorerealandefficientcauseseemstometobethehardlabourofthewomen，andtheheavyweightstheyconstantlycarry。ADyakwomangenerallyspendsthewholedayinthefield，andcarrieshomeeverynightaheavyloadofvegetablesandfirewood，oftenforseveralmiles，overroughandhillypaths；andnotunfrequentlyhastoclimbuparockymountainbyladders，andoverslipperysteppingstones，toanelevationofathousandfeet。
Besidesthis，shehasanhour'sworkeveryeveningtopoundthericewithaheavywoodenstamper，whichviolentlystrainseverypartofthebody。Shebeginsthiskindoflabourwhennineortenyearsold，anditneverceasesbutwiththeextremedecrepitudeofage。Surelyweneednotwonderatthelimitednumberofherprogeny，butratherbesurprisedatthesuccessfuleffortsofnaturetopreventtheexterminationoftherace。
Oneofthesurestandmostbeneficialeffectsofadvancingcivilization，willbetheameliorationoftheconditionofthesewomen。ThepreceptandexampleofhigherraceswillmaketheDyakashamedofhiscomparativelyidlelife，whilehisweakerpartnerlabourslikeabeastofburthen。Ashiswantsbecomeincreasedandhistastesrefined，thewomenwillhavemorehouseholddutiestoattendto，andwillthenceasetolabourinthefield——achangewhichhasalreadytoagreatextenttakenplaceinthealliedMalay，Javanese，andBugistribes。Populationwillthencertainlyincreasemorerapidly，improvedsystemsofagricultureandsomedivisionoflabourwillbecomenecessaryinordertoprovidethemeansofexistence，andamorecomplicatedsocialstatewilltaketheplaceofthesimpleconditionsofsocietywhichnowoccuramongthem。But，withthesharperstruggleforexistencethatwillthenarise，willthehappinessofthepeopleasawholebeincreasedordiminished？
Willnotevilpassionsbearousedbythespiritofcompetition，andcrimesandvices，nowunknownordormant，becalledintoactiveexistence？Theseareproblemsthattimealonecansolve；butitistobehopedthateducationandahigh-classEuropeanexamplemayobviatemuchoftheevilthattoooftenarisesinanalogouscases，andthatwemayatlengthbeabletopointtooneinstanceofanuncivilizedpeoplewhohavenotbecomedemoralized，andfinallyexterminated，bycontactwithEuropeancivilization。
Afewwordsinconclusion，aboutthegovernmentofSarawak。SirJamesBrookefoundtheDyaksoppressedandgrounddownbythemostcrueltyranny。TheywerecheatedbytheMalaytradersandrobbedbytheMalaychiefs。Theirwivesandchildrenwereoftencapturedandsoldintoslavery，andhostiletribespurchasedpermissionfromtheircruelrulerstoplunder，enslave，andmurderthem。Anythinglikejusticeorredressfortheseinjurieswasutterlyunattainable。FromthetimeSirJamesobtainedpossessionofthecountry，allthiswasstopped。EqualjusticewasawardedtoMalay，Chinaman，andDyak。Theremorselesspiratesfromtheriversfarthereastwerepunished，andfinallyshutupwithintheirownterritories，andtheDyak，forthefirsttime，couldsleepinpeace。Hiswifeandchildrenwerenowsafefromslavery；hishousewasnolongerburnedoverhishead；hiscropsandhisfruitswerenowhisowntosellorconsumeashepleased。Andtheunknownstrangerwhohaddoneallthisforthem，andaskedfornothinginreturn，whatcouldhebe？Howwasitpossibleforthemtorealizehismotives？Wasitnotnaturalthattheyshouldrefusetobelievehewasaman？Forofpurebenevolencecombinedwithgreatpower，theyhadhadnoexperienceamongmen。Theynaturallyconcludedthathewasasuperiorbeing，comedownuponearthtoconferblessingsontheafflicted。Inmanyvillageswherehehadnotbeenseen，Iwasaskedstrangequestionsabouthim。Washenotasoldasthemountains？Couldhenotbringthedeadtolife？Andtheyfirmlybelievethathecangivethemgoodharvests，andmaketheirfruit-treesbearanabundantcrop。
InformingaproperestimateofSirJamesBrooke'sgovernmentitmusteverberememberedthatheheldSarawaksolelybythegoodwillofthenativeinhabitant。Hehadtodealwithtworaces，oneofwhom，theMahometanMalays，lookedupontheotherrace，theDyaks，assavagesandslaves，onlyfittoberobbedandplundered。HehaseffectuallyprotectedtheDyaks，andhasinvariablytreatedthemas，inhissight，equaltotheMalays；andyethehassecuredtheaffectionandgoodwillofboth。Notwithstandingthereligiousprejudice，ofMahometans，hehasinducedthemtomodifymanyoftheirworstlawsandcustoms，andtoassimilatetheircriminalcodetothatofthecivilizedworld。Thathisgovernmentstillcontinues，aftertwenty-
sevenyears——notwithstandinghisfrequentabsencesfromill-health，notwithstandingconspiraciesofMalaychiefs，andinsurrectionsofChinesegold-diggers，allofwhichhavebeenovercomebythesupportofthenativepopulation，andnotwithstandingfinancial，political，anddomestictroublesisdue，Ibelieve，solelytothemanyadmirablequalitieswhichSirJamesBrookepossessed，andespeciallytohishavingconvincedthenativepopulation，byeveryactionofhislife，thatheruledthem，notforhisownadvantage，butfortheirgood。
Sincetheselineswerewritten，hisnoblespirithaspassedaway。
Butthough，bythosewhoknewhimnot，hemaybesneeredatasanenthusiasticadventurer，abusedasahard-hearteddespot，theuniversaltestimonyofeveryonewhocameincontactwithhiminhisadoptedcountry，whetherEuropean，Malay，orDyak，willbe，thatRajahBrookewasagreat，awise，andagoodruler；atrueandfaithfulfriend——
amantobeadmiredforhistalents，respectedforhishonestyandcourage，andlovedforhisgenuinehospitality，hiskindnessofdisposition，andhistendernessofheart。
CHAPTERVII。
JAVA
ISPENTthreemonthsandahalfinJava，fromJuly18thtoOctober31st，1861，andshallbrieflydescribemyownmovements，andmyobservationsofthepeopleandthenaturalhistoryofthecountry。ToallthosewhowishtounderstandhowtheDutchnowgovernJava，andhowitisthattheyareenabledtoderivealargeannualrevenuefromit，whilethepopulationincreases，andtheinhabitantsarecontented，IrecommendthestudyofMr。
Money'sexcellentandinterestingwork，"HowtoManageaColony。"
ThemainfactsandconclusionsofthatworkImostheartilyconcurin，andIbelievethattheDutchsystemistheverybestthatcanbeadopted，whenaEuropeannationconquersorotherwiseacquirespossessionofacountryinhabitedbyanindustriousbutsemi-barbarouspeople。InmyaccountofNorthernCelebes，IshallshowhowsuccessfullythesamesystemhasbeenappliedtoapeopleinaverydifferentstateofcivilizationfromtheJavanese；andinthemeanwhilewillstateinthefewestwordspossiblewhatthatsystemis。
ThemodeofgovernmentnowadoptedinJavaistoretainthewholeseriesofnativerulers，fromthevillagechiefuptoprinces，who，underthenameofRegents，aretheheadsofdistrictsaboutthesizeofasmallEnglishcounty。WitheachRegentisplacedaDutchResident，orAssistantResident，whoisconsideredtobehis"elderbrother，"andwhose"orders"taketheformof"recommendations，"whichare，however，implicitlyobeyed。AlongwitheachAssistantResidentisaController，akindofinspectorofallthelowernativerulers，whoperiodicallyvisitseveryvillageinthedistrict，examinestheproceedingsofthenativecourts，hearscomplaintsagainstthehead-menorothernativechiefs，andsuperintendstheGovernmentplantations。Thisbringsustothe"culturesystem，"whichisthesourceofallthewealththeDutchderivefromJava，andisthesubjectofmuchabuseinthiscountrybecauseitisthereverseof"freetrade。"Tounderstanditsusesandbeneficialeffects，itisnecessaryfirsttosketchthecommonresultsoffreeEuropeantradewithuncivilizedpeoples。
Nativesoftropicalclimateshavefewwants，and，whenthesearesupplied，aredisinclinedtoworkforsuperfluitieswithoutsomestrongincitement。Withsuchapeopletheintroductionofanyneworsystematiccultivationisalmostimpossible，exceptbythedespoticordersofchiefswhomtheyhavebeenaccustomedtoobey，aschildrenobeytheirparents。ThefreecompetitionofEuropeantraders，howeverintroducestwopowerfulinducementstoexertion。
Spiritsoropiumisatemptationtoostrongformostsavagestoresist，andtoobtainthesehewillsellwhateverhehas，andwillworktogetmore。Anothertemptationhecannotresist，isgoodsoncredit。Thetraderoffershimbaycloths，knives，gongs，guns，andgunpowder，tobepaidforbysomecropperhapsnotyetplanted，orsomeproductyetintheforest。Hehasnotsufficientforethoughttotakeonlyamoderatequantity，andnotenoughenergytoworkearlyandlateinordertogetoutofdebt；andtheconsequenceisthatheaccumulatesdebtupondebt，andoftenremainsforyears，orforlife，adebtorandalmostaslave。Thisisastateofthingswhichoccursverylargelyineverypartoftheworldinwhichmenofasuperiorracefreelytradewithmenofalowerrace。Itextendstradenodoubtforatime，butitdemoralizesthenative，checkstruecivilization——anddoesnotleadtoanypermanentincreaseinthewealthofthecountry；sothattheEuropeangovernmentofsuchacountrymustbecarriedonataloss。
ThesystemintroducedbytheDutchwastoinducethepeople，throughtheirchiefs，togiveaportionoftheirtill，tothecultivationofcoffee，sugar，andothervaluableproducts。A
fixedrateofwages——lowindeed，but，aboutequaltothatofallplaceswhereEuropeancompetitionhasnotartificiallyraisedit——
waspaidtothelabourersengagedinclearingthegroundandformingtheplantationsunderGovernmentsuperintendence。TheproduceissoldtotheGovernmentatalow，fixedprice。Outofthenetprofitapercentagegoestothechiefs，andtheremainderisdividedamongtheworkmen。Thissurplusingoodyearsissomethingconsiderable。Onthewhole，thepeoplearewellfedanddecentlyclothed，andhaveacquiredhabitsofsteadyindustryandtheartofscientificcultivation，whichmustbeofservicetotheminthefuture。Itmustberemembered，thattheGovernmentexpendedcapitalforyearsbeforeanyreturnwasobtained；andiftheynowderivealargerevenue，itisinawaywhichisfarlessburthensome，andfarmorebeneficialtothepeople，thananytaxthatcouldbelevied。
Butalthoughthesystemmaybeagoodone，andaswelladaptedtothedevelopmentofartsandindustryinahalfcivilizedpeopleasitistothematerialadvantageofthegoverningcountry，itisnotpretendedthatinpracticeitisperfectlycarriedout。
Theoppressiveandservilerelationsbetweenchiefsandpeople，whichhavecontinuedforperhapsathousandyears，cannotbeatonceabolished；andsomeevilmustresultfromthoserelations，untilthespreadofeducationandthegradualinfusionofEuropeanbloodcausesitnaturallyandinsensiblytodisappear。
ItissaidthattheResidents，desirousofshowingalargeincreaseintheproductsoftheirdistricts，havesometimespressedthepeopletosuchcontinuedlabourontheplantationsthattheirricecropshavebeenmateriallydiminished，andfaminehasbeentheresult。Ifthishashappened，itiscertainlynotacommonthing，andistobesetdowntotheabuseofthesystem，bythewantofjudgment，orwantofhumanityintheResident。
AtalehaslatelybeenwritteninHolland，andtranslatedintoEnglish，entitled"MaxHavelaar；or，the"CoffeeAuctionsoftheDutchTradingCompany，"andwithourusualone-sidednessinallrelatingtotheDutchColonialSystem，thisworkhasbeenexcessivelypraised，bothforitsownmerits，andforitssupposedcrushingexposureoftheiniquitiesoftheDutchgovernmentofJava。Greatlytomysurprise，Ifounditaverytediousandlong-windedstory，fulloframblingdigressions；andwhoseonlypointistoshowthattheDutchResidentsandAssistantResidentswinkattheextortionsofthenativeprinces；
andthatinsomedistrictsthenativeshavetodoworkwithoutpayment，andhavetheirgoodstakenawayfromthemwithoutcompensation。Everystatementofthiskindisthicklyinterspersedwithitalicsandcapitalletters；butasthenamesareallfictitious，andneitherdates，figures，nordetailsareevergiven，itisimpossibletoverifyoranswerthem。Evenifnotexaggerated，thefactsstatedarenotnearlysobadasthoseoftheoppressionbyfree-tradeindigo-planters，andtorturingbynativetax-gatherersunderBritishruleinIndia，withwhichthereadersofEnglishnewspaperswerefamiliarafewyearsago。Suchoppression，however，isnotfairlytobeimputedineithercasetotheparticularformofgovernment，butisratherduetotheinfirmityofhumannature，andtotheimpossibilityofatoncedestroyingalltraceofagesofdespotismontheoneside，andofslavishobediencetotheirchiefsontheother。
Itmustberemembered，thatthecompleteestablishmentoftheDutchpowerinJavaismuchmorerecentthanthatofourruleinIndia，andthattherehavebeenseveralchangesofgovernment，andinthemodeofraisingrevenue。Theinhabitantshavebeensorecentlyundertheruleoftheirnativeprinces，thatitisnoteasyatoncetodestroytheexcessivereverencetheyfeelfortheiroldmasters，ortodiminishtheoppressiveexactionswhichthelatterhavealwaysbeenaccustomedtomake。Thereis，however，onegrandtestoftheprosperity，andevenofthehappiness，ofacommunity，whichwecanapplyhere——therateofincreaseofthepopulation。
Itisuniversallyadmittedthatwhenacountryincreasesrapidlyinpopulation，thepeoplecannotbeverygreatlyoppressedorverybadlygoverned。Thepresentsystemofraisingarevenuebythecultivationofcoffeeandsugar，soldtoGovernmentatafixedprice，beganin1832。Justbeforethis，in1826，thepopulationbycensuswas5，500，000，whileatthebeginningofthecenturyitwasestimatedat3，500，000。In1850，whenthecultivationsystemhadbeeninoperationeighteenyears，thepopulationbycensuswasover9，500，000，oranincreaseof73percentintwenty-fouryears。Atthelastcensus，in1865，itamountedto14，168，416，anincreaseofverynearly50percentinfifteenyears——aratewhichwoulddoublethepopulationinabouttwenty-sixyears。AsJava(withMadura)containsabout38，500
geographicalsquaremiles，thiswillgiveanaverageof368
personstothesquaremile，justdoublethatofthepopulousandfertileBengalPresidencyasgiveninThornton'sGazetteerofIndia，andfullyone-thirdmorethanthatofGreatBritainandIrelandatthelastCensus。If，asIbelieve，thisvastpopulationisonthewholecontentedandhappy，theDutchGovernmentshouldconsiderwellbeforeabruptlychangingasystemwhichhasledtosuchgreatresults。
Takingitasawhole，andsurveyingitfronteverypointofview，Javaisprobablytheveryfinestandmostinterestingtropicalislandintheworld。Itisnotfirstinsize，butitismorethan600mileslong，andfrom60to120mileswide，andinareaisnearlyequaltoEngland；anditisundoubtedlythemostfertile，themostproductive，andthemostpopulousislandwithinthetropics。Itswholesurfaceismagnificentlyvariedwithmountainandforestscenery。Itpossessesthirty-eightvolcanicmountains，severalofwhichrisetotenortwelvethousandfeethigh。Someoftheseareinconstantactivity，andoneorotherofthemdisplaysalmosteveryphenomenonproducedbytheactionofsubterraneanfires，exceptregularlavastreams，whichneveroccurinJava。Theabundantmoistureandtropicalheatoftheclimatecausesthesemountainstobeclothedwithluxuriantvegetation，oftentotheirverysummits，whileforestsandplantationscovertheirlowerslopes。Theanimalproductions，especiallythebirdsandinsects，arebeautifulandvaried，andpresentmanypeculiarformsfoundnowhereelseupontheglobe。
Thesoilthroughouttheislandisexceedinglyfertile，andalltheproductionsofthetropics，togetherwithmanyofthetemperatezones，canbeeasilycultivated。Javatoopossessesacivilization，ahistoryandantiquitiesofitsown，ofgreatinterest。TheBrahminicalreligionflourishedinitfromanepochofunknownantiquityuntilabouttheyear1478，whenthatofMahometsupersededit。Theformerreligionwasaccompaniedbyacivilizationwhichhasnotbeenequalledbytheconquerors；for，scatteredthroughthecountry，especiallyintheeasternpartofit，arefoundburiedinloftyforests，temples，tombs，andstatuesofgreatbeautyandgrandeur；andtheremainsofextensivecities，wherethetiger，therhinoceros，andthewildbullnowroamundisturbed。Amoderncivilizationofanothertypeisnowspreadingovertheland。Goodroadsrunthroughthecountryfromendtoend；Europeanandnativerulersworkharmoniouslytogether；andlifeandpropertyareaswellsecuredasinthebestgovernedstatesofEurope。Ibelieve，therefore，thatJavamayfairlyclaimtobethefinesttropicalislandintheworld，andequallyinterestingtothetouristseekingafternewandbeautifulscenes；tothenaturalistwhodesirestoexaminethevarietyandbeautyoftropicalnature；ortothemoralistandthepoliticianwhowanttosolvetheproblemofhowmanmaybebestgovernedundernewandvariedconditions。
TheDutchmailsteamerbroughtmefromTernatetoSourabaya，thechieftownandportintheeasternpartofJava，andafterafortnightspentinpackingupandsendingoffmylastcollections，Istartedonashortjourneyintotheinterior。
TravellinginJavaisveryluxuriousbutveryexpensive，theonlywaybeingtohireorborrowacarriage，andthenpayhalfacrownamileforpost-horses，whicharechangedatregularpostseverysixmiles，andwillcarryyouattherateoftenmilesanhourfromoneendoftheislandtotheother。Bullockcartsorcooliesarerequiredtocarryallextrabaggage。Asthiskindoftravellingworldnotsuitmymeans，IdeterminedonmakingonlyashortjourneytothedistrictatthefootofMountArjuna，whereIwastoldtherewereextensiveforests，andwhereIhopedtobeabletomakesomegoodcollections。ThecountryformanymilesbehindSourabayaisperfectlyflatandeverywherecultivated；
beingadeltaoralluvialplain，wateredbymanybranchingstreams。Immediatelyaroundthetowntheevidentsignsofwealthandofanindustriouspopulationwereverypleasing；butaswewenton，theconstantsuccessionofopenfieldsskirtedbyrowsofbamboos，withhereandtherethewhitebuildingsandatallchimneyofasugar-mill，becamemonotonous。Theroadsruninstraightlinesforseveralmilesatastretch，andareborderedbyrowsofdustytamarind-trees。Ateachmiletherearelittleguardhouses，whereapolicemanisstationed；andthereisawoodengong，whichbymeansofconcertedsignalsmaybemadetoconveyinformationoverthecountrywithgreatrapidity。Abouteverysixorsevenmilesisthepost-house，wherethehorsesarechangedasquicklyaswerethoseofthemailintheoldcoachingdaysinEngland。
IstoppedatModjokerto，asmalltownaboutfortymilessouthofSourabaya，andthenearestpointonthehighroadtothedistrictIwishedtovisit。IhadaletterofintroductiontoMr。Ball，anEnglishman，longresidentinJavaandmarriedtoaDutchlady；
andhekindlyinvitedmetostaywithhimuntilIcouldfixonaplacetosuitme。ADutchAssistantResidentaswellasaRegentornativeJavaneseprincelivedhere。Thetownwasneat，andhadaniceopengrassyspacelikeavillagegreen，onwhichstoodamagnificentfig-tree(alliedtotheBanyanofIndia，butmorelofty)，underwhoseshadeakindofmarketiscontinuallyheld，andwheretheinhabitantsmeettogethertoloungeandchat。Thedayaftermyarrival，Mr。BalldrovemeovertothevillageofModjo-agong，wherehewasbuildingahouseandpremisesforthetobaccotrade，whichiscarriedonherebyasystemofnativecultivationandadvancepurchase，somewhatsimilartotheindigotradeinBritishIndia。OnourwaywestayedtolookatafragmentoftheruinsoftheancientcityofModjo-pahit，consistingoftwoloftybrickmasses，apparentlythesidesofagateway。Theextremeperfectionandbeautyofthebrickworkastonishedme。Thebricksareexceedinglyfineandhard，withsharpanglesandtruesurfaces。Theyarelaidwithgreatexactness，withoutvisiblemortarorcement，yetsomehowfastenedtogethersothatthejointsarehardlyperceptible，andsometimesthetwosurfacescoalesceinamostincomprehensiblemanner。
SuchadmirablebrickworkIhaveneverseenbeforeorsince。Therewasnosculpturehere，butanabundanceofboldprojectionsandfinely-workedmouldings。Tracesofbuildingsexistformanymilesineverydirection，andalmosteveryroadandpathwayshowsafoundationofbrickworkbeneathit——thepavedroadsoftheoldcity。InthehouseoftheWaidonoordistrictchiefatModjo-
agong，Isawabeautifulfigurecarvedinhighreliefoutofablockoflava，andwhichhadbeenfoundburiedinthegroundnearthevillage。Onmyexpressingawishtoobtainsomesuchspecimen，Mr。B。askedthechiefforit，andmuchtomysurpriseheimmediatelygaveitme。ItrepresentedtheHindugoddessDurga，calledinJava，LoraJonggrang(theexaltedvirgin)。Shehaseightarms，andstandsonthebackofakneelingbull。Herlowerrighthandholdsthetailofthebull，whilethecorrespondinglefthandgraspsthehairofacaptive，DewthMahikusor，thepersonificationofvice，whohasattemptedtoslayherbull。Hehasacordroundhiswaist，andcrouchesatherfeetinanattitudeofsupplication。Theotherhandsofthegoddesshold，onherrightside，adoublehookorsmallanchor，abroadstraightsword，andanooseofthickcord；onherleft，agirdleorarmletoflargebeadsorshells，anunstrungbow，andastandardorwarflag。ThisdeitywasaspecialfavouriteamongtheoldJavanese，andherimageisoftenfoundintheruinedtempleswhichaboundintheeasternpartoftheisland。
ThespecimenIhadobtainedwasasmallone，abouttwofeethigh，weighingperhapsahundredweight；andthenextdaywehaditconveyedtoModjo-KertotoawaitmyreturntoSourabaya。HavingdecidedtostaysometimeatWonosalem，onthelowerslopesoftheArjunaMountain，whereIwasinformedIshouldfindforestandplentyofgame，IhadfirsttoobtainarecommendationfromtheAssistantResidenttotheRegent，andthenanorderfromtheRegenttotheWaidono；andwhenafteraweek'sdelayIarrivedwithmybaggageandmenatModjo-agong，Ifoundthemallinthemidstofafivedays'feast，tocelebratethecircumcisionoftheWaidono'syoungerbrotherandcousin，andhadasmallroominanonouthousegivenmetostayin。Thecourtyardandthegreatopenreception-shedwerefullofnativescomingandgoingandmakingpreparationsforafeastwhichwastotakeplaceatmidnight，towhichIwasinvited，butpreferredgoingtobed。Anativeband，orGamelang，wasplayingalmostalltheevening，andIhadagoodopportunityofseeingtheinstrumentsandmusicians。Theformerarechieflygongsofvarioussizes，arrangedinsetsoffromeighttotwelve，onlowwoodenframes。Eachsetisplayedbyoneperformerwithoneortwodrumsticks。Therearealsosomeverylargegongs，playedsinglyorinpairs，andtakingtheplaceofourdrumsandkettledrums。Otherinstrumentsareformedbybroadmetallicbars，supportedonstringsstretchedacrossframes；andothersagainofstripsofbamboosimilarlyplacedandproducingthehighestnotes。Besidesthesetherewereafluteandacurioustwo-stringedviolin，requiringinalltwenty-fourperformers。
Therewasaconductor，wholedoffandregulatedthetime，andeachperformertookhispart，cominginoccasionallywithafewbarssoastoformaharmoniouscombination。Thepiecesplayedwerelongandcomplicated，andsomeoftheplayersweremereboys，whotooktheirpartswithgreatprecision。Thegeneraleffectwasverypleasing，but，owingtothesimilarityofmostoftheinstruments，morelikeagiganticmusicalboxthanoneofourbands；andinordertoenjoyitthoroughlyitisnecessarytowatchthelargenumberofperformerswhoareengagedinit。Thenextmorning，whileIwaswaitingforthemenandhorseswhoweretotakemeandmybaggagetomydestination，thetwolads，whowereaboutfourteenyearsold，werebroughtout，clothedinasarongfromthewaistdownwards，andhavingthewholebodycoveredwithyellowpowder，andprofuselydeckedwithwhiteblossominwreaths，necklaces，andarmlets，lookingatfirstsightverylikesavagebrides。Theywereconductedbytwoprieststoabenchplacedinfrontofthehouseintheopenair，andtheceremonyofcircumcisionwasthenperformedbeforetheassembledcrowd。
TheroadtoWonosalemledthroughamagnificentforestinthedepthsofwhichwepassedafineruinofwhatappearedtohavebeenaroyaltombormausoleum。Itisformedentirelyofstone，andelaboratelycarved。Nearthebaseisacourseofboldlyprojectingblocks，sculpturedinhighrelief，withaseriesofsceneswhichareprobablyincidentsinthelifeofthedefunct。
Theseareallbeautifullyexecuted，someofthefiguresofanimalsinparticular，beingeasilyrecognisableandveryaccurate。Thegeneraldesign，asfarastheruinedstateoftheupperpartwillpermitofitsbeingseen，isverygood，effectbeinggivenbyanimmensenumberandvarietyofprojectingorretreatingcoursesofsquaredstonesinplaceofmouldings。Thesizeofthisstructureisaboutthirtyfeetsquarebytwentyhigh，andasthetravellercomessuddenlyuponitonasmallelevationbytheroadside，overshadowedbygigantictrees，overrunwithplantsandcreepers，andcloselybackedbythegloomyforest，heisstruckbythesolemnityandpicturesquebeautyofthescene，andisledtoponderonthestrangelawofprogress，whichlookssolikeretrogression，andwhichinsomanydistantpartsoftheworldhasexterminatedordrivenoutahighlyartisticandconstructiverace，tomakeroomforonewhich，asfaraswecanjudge，isveryfaritsinferior。
FewEnglishmenareawareofthenumberandbeautyofthearchitecturalremainsinJava。Theyhaveneverbeenpopularlyillustratedordescribed，anditwillthereforetakemostpersonsbysurprisetolearnthattheyfarsurpassthoseofCentralAmerica，perhapseventhoseofIndia。Togivesomeideaoftheseruins，andperchancetoexcitewealthyamateurstoexplorethemthoroughlyandobtainbyphotographyanaccuraterecordoftheirbeautifulsculpturesbeforeitistoolate，Iwillenumeratethemostimportant，asbrieflydescribedinSirStamfordRaffles'
"HistoryofJava。"
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