AndnowIleavemysubject，notwithoutmisgivingthatIshallhavedisappointedyou。ButforthegreatattentionwhichisbeingpaidtotheworkfromwhichIhavequotedabove，Ishouldnothavethoughtitwelltoinsistonpointswithwhichyouare，Idoubtnot，asfullyimpressedasIam：butthatbookweakensthesanctionsofnaturalreligion，andminimisesthecomfortwhichitaffordsus，whileitdoesmoretounderminethantosupportthefoundationsofwhatiscommonlycalledbelief。ThereforeIwasgladtoembracethisopportunityofprotesting。OtherwiseIshouldnothavebeensoseriousonamatterthattranscendsallseriousness。LordBeaconsfieldcutitshorterwithmoreeffect。Whenaskedtogivearuleoflifeforthesonofafriendhesaid，"DonotlethimtryandfindoutwhowrotethelettersofJunius。"Pressedforfurthercounselheadded，"Noryetwhowasthemanintheironmask"——andhewouldsaynomore。Don’tborepeople。AndyetIambynomeanssurethatagoodmanypeopledonotthinkthemselvesill-usedunlesshewhoaddressesthemhasthoroughlywellboredthem——especiallyiftheyhavepaidanymoneyforhearinghim。Mygreatnamesakesaid，"Surelythepleasureisasgreatofbeingcheatedastocheat，"andgreatasthepleasurebothofcheatingandboringundoubtedlyis，I

believehewasright。SoIrememberapoemwhichcameoutsomethirtyyearsagoinPunch，aboutayoungladywhowentforthinquestto"Someburdenmakeorburdenbear，butwhichshedidnotgreatlycare，ohMiserie。"So，again，alltheholymenandwomenwhointheMiddleAgesprofessedtohavediscoveredhowtomakethebestoflifetookcarethatbeingbored，ifnotcheated，shouldhavealargeplaceintheirprogramme。Stilltherearelimits，andI

closenotwithoutfearthatImayhaveexceededthem。

THESANCTUARYOFMONTRIGONE{6}

TheonlyplaceintheValsesia，exceptVarallo，whereIatpresentsuspectthepresenceofTabachetti{7}isatMontrigone，alittle-

knownsanctuarydedicatedtoSt。Anne，aboutthree-quartersofamilesouthofBorgo-Sesiastation。Thesituationis，ofcourse，lovely，butthesanctuarydoesnotofferanyfeaturesofarchitecturalinterest。Thesacristantoldmeitwasfoundedin1631；andin1644Giovannid’Enrico，whileengagedinsuperintendingandcompletingtheworkundertakenherebyhimselfandGiacomoFerro，fellillanddied。Idonotknowwhetherornotherewasanearliersanctuaryonthesamesite，butwastolditwasbuiltonthedemolitionofastrongholdbelongingtotheCountsofBiandrate。

TheincidentswhichitillustratesaretreatedwithevenmorethanthehomelinessusualinworksofthisdescriptionwhennotdealingwithsuchsolemneventsasthedeathandpassionofChrist。Exceptwhenthesesubjectswerebeingrepresented，somethingofthelatitude，andevenhumour，allowedintheoldmysteryplayswaspermitted，doubtlessfromadesiretorendertheworkmoreattractivetothepeasants，whowerethemostnumerousandmostimportantpilgrims。Itisnotuntilfaithbeginstobeweakthatitfearsanoccasionallylightertreatmentofsemi-sacredsubjects，anditisimpossibletoconveyanaccurateideaofthespiritprevailingatthishamletofsanctuarywithoutattuningoneselfsomewhattothemorepagancharacteroftheplace。Ofirreverence，inthesenseofadesiretolaughatthingsthatareofhighandseriousimport，thereisnotatrace，butatthesametimethereisacertainunbendingofthebowatMontrigonewhichisnotperceivableatVarallo。

ThefirstchapeltotheleftonenteringthechurchisthatoftheBirthoftheVirgin。St。Anneissittingupinbed。Sheisnotatallill——infact，consideringthattheVirginhasonlybeenbornaboutfiveminutes，sheiswonderful；stillthedoctorsthinkitmaybeperhapsbetterthatsheshouldkeepherroomforhalfanhourlonger，sothebedhasbeenfestoonedwithredandwhitepaperroses，andthecounterpaneiscoveredwithbouquetsinbasketsandinvasesofglassandchina。ThesecannothavebeenthereduringtheactualbirthoftheVirgin，soIsupposetheyhadbeeninreadiness，andwerebroughtinfromanadjoiningroomassoonasthebabyhadbeenborn。Aladyonherleftisbringinginsomemoreflowers，whichSt。Anneisreceivingwithasmileandmostgraciousgestureofthehands。Thefirstthingsheaskedfor，whenthebirthwasover，wasforherthreesilverhearts。Thesewereimmediatelybroughttoher，andshehasgotthemallon，tiedroundherneckwithapieceofbluesilkribbon。

Dearmammahascome。Wefeltsureshewould，andthatanylittlemisunderstandingsbetweenherandJoachimwoulderelongbeforgottenandforgiven。Theyarebothsogoodandsensibleiftheywouldonlyunderstandoneanother。Atanyrate，heresheis，inhighstateattherighthandofthebed。Sheisdressedinblack，forshehaslostherhusbandsomefewyearspreviously，butIdonotbelieveasmarter，sprieroldladyforheryearscouldbefoundinPalestine，noryetthateitherGiovannid’EnricoorGiacomoFerrocouldhaveconceivedorexecutedsuchacharacter。Thesacristanwantedtohaveitthatshewasnotawomanatall，butwasaportraitofSt。Joachim，theVirgin’sfather。"Sembraunadonna，"

hepleadedmorethanonce，"manonedonna。"Surely，however，inworksofartevenmorethaninotherthings，thereisno"is"butseeming，andifafigureseemsfemaleitmustbetakenassuch。

Besides，IaskedoneoftheleadingdoctorsatVarallowhetherthefigurewasmanorwoman。HesaiditwasevidentIwasnotmarried，forthatifIhadbeenIshouldhaveseenatoncethatshewasnotonlyawomanbutamother-in-lawofthefirstmagnitude，or，ashecalledit，"unasuoceratremenda，"andthiswithoutknowingthatI

wantedhertobeamother-in-lawmyself。Unfortunatelyshehadnorealdrapery，soIcouldnotsettlethequestionasmyfriendMr。H。

F。JonesandIhadbeenabletodoatVarallowiththefigureofEvethathadbeenturnedintoaRomansoldierassistingatthecaptureofChrist。Iamnot，however，disposedtowastemoretimeuponanythingsoobvious，andwillcontentmyselfwithsayingthatwehaveheretheVirgin’sgrandmother。Ihadneverhadthepleasure，sofarasIremembered，ofmeetingthisladybefore，andwasgladtohaveanopportunityofmakingheracquaintance。

TraditionsaysthatitwasshewhochosetheVirgin’sname，andifso，whatadebtofgratitudedowenotoweherforherjudiciousselection！ItmakesoneshuddertothinkwhatmighthavehappenedifshehadnamedthechildKeren-Happuch，aspoorJob’sdaughterwascalled。Howcouldwehavesaid，"AveKeren-Happuch！"Whatwouldthemusicianshavedone？IforgetwhetherMaher-Shalal-Hash-Bazwasamanorawoman，buttherewereplentyofnamesquiteasunmanageableattheVirgin’sgrandmother’soption，andwecannotsufficientlythankherforhavingchosenonethatissoeuphoniousineverylanguagewhichweneedtakeintoaccount。Forthisreasonaloneweshouldnotgrudgeherherportrait，butweshouldtrytodrawthelinehere。IdonotthinkweoughttogivetheVirgin’sgreat-grandmotherastatue。Whereisittoend？ItislikeMr。

Crookes’sultimissimateatoms；weusedtodrawthelineatultimateatoms，andnowitseemswearetogoastepfartherbackandhaveultimissimateatoms。Howlong，Iwonder，willitbebeforewefeelthatitwillbeamaterialhelptoustohaveultimissimissimateatoms？Quaversstoppedatdemi-semi-demi，butthereisnoreasontosupposethateitheratomsorancestressesoftheVirginwillbesocomplacent。

IhavesaidthatonSt。Anne’slefthandthereisaladywhoisbringinginsomeflowers。St。Annewasalwayspassionatelyfondofflowers。ThereisaprettystorytoldaboutherinoneoftheFathers，Iforgetwhich，totheeffectthatwhenachildshewasaskedwhichshelikedbest——cakesorflowers？Shecouldnotyetspeakplainlyandlispedout，"Ohfowses，prettyfowses"；sheadded，however，withasighandasakindofwistfulcorollary，"butcakesareverynice。"Sheisnottohaveanycakes，justnow，butassoonasshehasdonethankingtheladyforherbeautifulnosegay，sheistohaveacoupleofnicenew-laideggs，thatarebeingbroughtherbyanotherlady。Valsesianwomenimmediatelyaftertheirconfinementalwayshaveeggsbeatenupwithwineandsugar，andonecantellaValsesianBirthoftheVirginfromaVenetianoraFlorentinebythepresenceoftheeggs。IlearnedthisfromaneminentValsesianprofessorofmedicine，whotoldmethat，thoughnotaccordingtoreceivedrules，theeggsneverseemedtodoanyharm。Heretheyareevidentlytobebeatenup，forthereisneitherspoonnoregg-cup，andwecannotsupposethattheywerehard-boiled。

Ontheotherhand，intheMiddleAgesItaliansneverusedegg-cupsandspoonsforboiledeggs。Themediaevalboiledeggwasalwayseatenbydippingbreadintotheyolk。

Behindtheladywhoisbringingintheeggsistheunder-under-nursewhoisatthefirewarmingatowel。Intheforegroundwehavetheregulationmidwifeholdingtheregulationbaby（who，bytheway，wasanastonishinglyfinechildforonlyfiveminutesold）。Thencomestheunder-nurse——agoodbuxomcreature，who，asusual，isfeelingthewaterinthebathtoseethatitisoftherighttemperature。

Nexttoheristhehead-nurse，whoisarrangingthecradle。Behindthehead-nurseistheunder-under-nurse’sdrudge，whoisjustgoingoutuponsomeerrands。Lastly——forbythistimewehavegotallroundthechapel——wearriveattheVirgin’sgrandmother’s-body-

guard，astately，responsible-lookinglady，standinginwaitinguponhermistress。Iputittothereader——isitconceivablethatSt。

Joachimshouldhavebeenallowedinsucharoomatsuchatime，orthatheshouldhavehadthecouragetoavailhimselfofthepermission，eventhoughithadbeenextendedtohim？Atanyrate，isitconceivablethatheshouldhavebeenallowedtositonSt。

Anne’srighthand，layingdownthelawwitha"Marry，comeuphere，"

anda"Marry，go-downthere，"andacoupleofsuchunabashedcollarsastheoldladyhasputonfortheoccasion？

Moreover（forImayaswelldemolishthismischievousconfusionbetweenSt。Joachimandhismother-in-lawonceandforall），themeresttyroinhagiologyknowsthatSt。JoachimwasnotathomewhentheVirginwasborn。Hehadbeenhustledoutofthetempleforhavingnochildren，andhadfleddesolateanddismayedintothewilderness。Itshowshowsillypeopleare，forallthetimehewasgoing，iftheyhadonlywaitedalittle，tobethefatherofthemostremarkablepersonofpurelyhumanoriginwhohadeverbeenborn，andsuchaparentasthisshouldsurelynotbehurried。ThestoryistoldinthefrescoesofthechapelofLoreto，onlyaquarterofanhour’swalkfromVarallo，andnoonecanhaveknownitbetterthanD’Enrico。Thefrescoesareexplainedbywrittenpassagesthattellushow，whenJoachimwasinthedesert，anangelcametohimintheguiseofafair，civilyounggentleman，andtoldhimtheVirginwastobeborn。Then，lateron，thesameyounggentlemanappearedtohimagain，andbadehim"inGod’snamebecomforted，andturnagaintohiscontent，"fortheVirginhadbeenactuallyborn。OnwhichSt。Joachim，whoseemstohavebeenofopinionthatmarriageafterallWASratherafailure，saidthat，asthingsweregoingonsonicelywithouthim，hewouldstayinthedesertjustalittlelonger，andofferedupalambasapretexttogaintime。Perhapsheguessedabouthismother-in-law，orhemayhaveaskedtheangel。Ofcourse，eveninspiteofsuchevidenceasthisImaybemistakenabouttheVirgin’sgrandmother’ssex，andthesacristanmayberight；butIcanonlysaythatiftheladysittingbySt。Anne’sbedsideatMontrigoneistheVirgin’sfather——well，inthatcaseImustreconsideragooddealthatIhavebeenaccustomedtobelievewasbeyondquestion。

Takensingly，Isupposethatnoneofthefiguresinthechapel，excepttheVirgin’sgrandmother，shouldberatedveryhighly。Theunder-nurseisthenextbestfigure，andmightverywellbeTabachetti’s，forneitherGiovannid’EnriconorGiacomoFerrowassuccessfulwithhisfemalecharacters。ThereisnotasinglereallycomfortablewomaninanychapelbyeitherofthemontheSacroMonteatVarallo。Tabachetti，ontheotherhand，delightedinwomen；iftheywereyounghemadethemcomelyandengaging，iftheywereoldhegavethemdignityandindividualcharacter，andtheunder-nurseismuchmoreinaccordancewithTabachetti’shabitualmentalattitudethanwithD’Enrico’sorGiacomoFerro’s。Stillthereareonlyfourfiguresoutoftheeleventhataremereotiosesupers，andtakingtheworkasawholeitleavesapleasantimpressionasbeingthroughoutnaiveandhomely，andsometimes，whichisoflessimportance，technicallyexcellent。

Allowancemust，ofcourse，bemadefortawdryaccessoriesandrepeatedcoatsofshinyoleaginouspaint——verydisagreeablewhereithaspeeledoffandalmostmoresowhereithasnot。WhatworkcouldstandagainstsuchtreatmentastheValsesianterra-cottafigureshavehadtoputupwith？TaketheVenusofMilo；letherbedoneinterra-cotta，andhaverun，notmuch，butstillsomething，inthebaking；paintherpink，twooils，allover，andthenvarnishher——itwillhelptopreservethepaint；gluealotofhorsehairontoherpate，halfofwhichshallhavecomeoff，leavingthegluestillshowing；scrapeher，nottoothoroughly，getthevillagedrawing-

mastertopaintheragain，andthedrawing-masterinthenextprovincialtowntoputaforestbackgroundbehindherwiththebrightestemerald-greenleavesthathecandoforthemoney；letthispaintingandscrapingandrepaintingberepeatedseveraltimesover；festoonherwithpinkandwhiteflowersmadeoftissuepaper；

surroundherwiththecheapestGermanimitationsofthecheapestdecorationsthatBirminghamcanproduce；letthenightairandwinterfogsgetatherforthreehundredyears，andhoweasy，I

wonder，willitbetoseethegoddesswhowillbestillingreatpartthere？True，inthecaseoftheBirthoftheVirginchapelatMontrigone，thereisnorealhairandnofrescobackground，buttimehashadabundantopportunitieswithoutthese。Iwillconcludemynoticeofthischapelbysayingthatontheleft，abovethedoorthroughwhichtheunder-under-nurse’sdrudgeisabouttopass，thereisagoodpaintedterra-cottabust，said——butIbelieveonnoauthority——tobeaportraitofGiovannid’Enrico。OtherssaythattheVirgin’sgrandmotherisGiovannid’Enrico，butthisisevenmoreabsurdthansupposinghertobeSt。Joachim。

ThenextchapeltotheBirthoftheVirginisthatoftheSposalizio。ThereisnofigureherewhichsuggestsTabachetti，butstilltherearesomeverygoodones。Thebesthavenotaintofbarocco；themanwhodidthem，whoeverhemayhavebeen，hadevidentlyagooddealoflifeandgo，wastakingreasonablepains，anddidnotknowtoomuch。Wherethisisthecasenoworkcanfailtoplease。Someofthefigureshaverealhairandsometerracotta。

Thereisnofrescobackgroundworthmentioning。Amansittingonthestepsofthealtarwithabookonhislap，andholdinguphishandtoanother，whoisleaningoverhimandtalkingtohim，isamongthebestfigures；someofthedisappointedsuitorswhoarebreakingtheirwandsarealsoverygood。

TheangelintheAnnunciationchapel，whichcomesnextinorder，isafine，burly，ship’s-figurehead，commercial-hotelsortofbeingenough，buttheVirginisveryordinary。Thereisnorealhairandnofrescobackground，onlythreedingyoldblisteredpicturesofnointerestwhatever。

InthevisitofMarytoElizabeththerearethreepleasingsubordinateladyattendants，twototheleftandonetotherightoftheprincipalfigures；butthesefiguresthemselvesarenotsatisfactory。Thereisnofrescobackground。Someofthefigureshaverealhairandsometerracotta。

IntheCircumcisionandPurificationchapel——forboththeseeventsseemcontemplatedintheonethatfollows——therearedoves，butthereisneitherdognorknife。StillSimeon，whohastheinfantSaviourinhisarms，islookingathiminawaywhichcanonlymeanthat，knifeornoknife，thematterisnotgoingtoendhere。AtVarallotheyhavenowgotadreadfulknifefortheCircumcisionchapel。Theyhadnonelastwinter。Whattheyhavenowgotwoulddoverywelltokillabullockwith，butcouldnotbeusedprofessionallywithsafetyforanyanimalsmallerthanarhinoceros。

IimaginethatsomeonewassenttoNovaratobuyaknife，andthat，thinkingitwasfortheMassacreoftheInnocentschapel，hegotthebiggesthecouldsee。Thenwhenhebroughtitbackpeoplesaid"chow"severaltimes，andputituponthetableandwentaway。

ReturningtoMontrigone，theSimeonisanexcellentfigure，andtheVirginisfairlygood，buttheprophetessAnna，whostandsjustbehindher，isbyfarthemostinterestinginthegroup，andisaloneenoughtomakemefeelsurethatTabachettigavemoreorlesshelphere，ashehaddoneyearsbeforeatOrta。She，too，liketheVirgin’sgrandmother，isawidowlady，andwearscollarsofacutthatseemstohaveprevailedeversincetheVirginwasbornsometwentyyearspreviously。Thereisalargenessandsimplicityoftreatmentaboutthefiguretowhichnonebutanartistofthehighestrankcanreach，andD’Enricowasnotmorethanasecondorthird-rateman。ThehoodislikeHandel’sTruthsailinguponthebroadwingsofTime，apropheticstrainthatnothingbuttheoldexperienceofagreatpoetcanreach。Thelipsoftheprophetessareforthemomentclosed，butshehasbeenprophesyingallthemorning，andthepeopleroundthewallinthebackgroundareinecstasiesattheluciditywithwhichshehasexplainedallsortsofdifficultiesthattheyhadneverbeenabletounderstandtillnow。

Theyareputtingtheirforefingersontheirthumbsandtheirthumbsontheirforefingers，andsayinghowclearlytheyseeitallandwhatawonderfulwomanAnnais。Aprophetindeedisnotgenerallywithouthonoursaveinhisowncountry，butthenacountryisgenerallynotwithouthonoursavewithitsownprophet，andAnnahasbeenglorifyinghercountryratherthanrevilingit。Besides，therulemaynothaveappliedtoprophetesses。

TheDeathoftheVirginisthelastofthesixchapelsinsidethechurchitself。TheApostles，whoofcoursearepresent，haveallofthemrealhair，but，ifImaysayso，theywantawashandabrush-

upsoverybadlythatIcannotfeelanyconfidenceinwritingaboutthem。Ishouldsaythat，takethemallround，theyareagoodaveragesampleofapostleasapostlesgenerallygo。Twoorthreeofthemarenervouslyanxioustofindappropriatequotationsinbooksthatlieopenbeforethem，whichtheyaresearchingwitheagerhaste；butIdonotseeonefigureaboutwhichIshouldliketosaypositivelythatitiseithergoodorbad。Thereisagoodbustofaman，matchingtheoneintheBirthoftheVirginchapel，whichissaidtobeaportraitofGiovannid’Enrico，butitisnotknownwhomitrepresents。

Outsidethechurch，inthreecontiguouscellsthatformpartofthefoundations，are：-

1。AdeadChrist，theheadofwhichisveryimpressivewhiletherestofthefigureispoor。Iexaminedthetreatmentofthehair，whichisterra-cotta，andcompareditwithallotherlikehairinthechapelsabovedescribed；Icouldfindnothinglikeit，andthinkitmostlikelythatGiacomoFerrodidthefigure，andgotTabachettitodothehead，orthattheybroughttheheadfromsomeunusedfigurebyTabachettiatVarallo，forIknownootherartistofthetimeandneighbourhoodwhocouldhavedoneit。

2。AMagdaleneinthedesert。Thedesertisalittlecoal-cellarofanarch，containingaskullandaprofusionofpinkandwhitepaperbouquets，thetwolargestofwhichtheMagdaleneishuggingwhilesheissayingherprayers。Sheisaveryself-sufficientlady，whowemaybesurewillnotstayinthedesertadaylongerthanshecanhelp，andwhiletherewillflirtevenwiththeskullifshecanfindnothingbettertoflirtwith。Icannotthinkthatherrepentanceisasyetgenuine，andasforherprayingthereisnoobjectinherdoingso，forshedoesnotwantanything。

3。InthenextdesertthereisaverybeautifulfigureofSt。JohntheBaptistkneelingandlookingupwards。ThisfigurepuzzlesmemorethananyotheratMontrigone；itappearstobeofthefifteenthratherthanthesixteenthcentury；ithardlyremindsmeofGaudenzio，andstilllessofanyotherValsesianartist。Itisaworkofunusualbeauty，butIcanformnoideaastoitsauthorship。

IwrotetheforegoingpagesinthechurchatMontrigoneitself，havingbroughtmycamp-stoolwithme。ItwasSunday；thechurchwasopenallday，buttherewasnomasssaid，andhardlyanyonecame。

Thesacristanwasakind，gentle，littleoldman，wholetmedowhateverIwanted。Hesatonthedoorstepofthemaindoor，mendingvestments，andtothisendwascuttingupafinepieceoffiguredsilkfromonetotwohundredyearsold，which，ifIcouldhavegotit，forhalfitsvalue，Ishouldmuchliketohavebought。Isatinthecoolofthechurchwhilehesatinthedoorway，whichwasstillinshadow，snippingandsnipping，andthensewing，Iamsurewithadmirableneatness。Hemadeacharmingpicture，withthearchedporticooverhishead，thegreengrassandlowchurchwallbehindhim，andthenalovelylandscapeofwoodandpastureandvalleysandhillside。EverynowandthenhewouldcomeandchirrupaboutJoachim，forhewaspainedandshockedatmyhavingsaidthathisJoachimwassomeoneelseandnotJoachimatall。IsaidIwasverysorry，butIwasafraidthefigurewasawoman。Heaskedmewhathewastodo。Hehadknownit，manandboy，thissixtyyears，andhadalwaysshownitasSt。Joachim；hehadneverheardanyonebutmyselfquestionhisascription，andcouldnotsuddenlychangehismindaboutitatthebiddingofastranger。AtthesametimehefeltitwasaveryseriousthingtocontinueshowingitastheVirgin’sfatherifitwasreallyhergrandmother。ItoldhimI

thoughtthiswasacaseforhisspiritualdirector，andthatifhefeltuncomfortableaboutitheshouldconsulthisparishpriestanddoashewastold。

OnleavingMontrigone，withapleasantsenseofhavingmadeacquaintancewithanewand，inmanyrespects，interestingwork，I

couldnotgetthesacristanandourdifferenceofopinionoutofmyhead。What，Iaskedmyself，arethedifferencesthatunhappilydivideChristendom，andwhatarethosethatdivideChristendomfrommodernschoolsofthought，butaseeingofJoachimsastheVirgin’sgrandmothersonalargerscale？True，wecannotcallfiguresJoachimwhenweknowperfectlywellthattheyarenothingofthekind；butIregisteredavowthathenceforwardwhenIcalledJoachimstheVirgin’sgrandmothersIwouldbearmoreinmindthanI

haveperhapsalwayshithertodone，howharditisforthosewhohavebeentaughttoseethemasJoachimstothinkofthemassomethingdifferent。ItrustthatIhavenotbeenunfaithfultothisvowintheprecedingarticle。Ifthereaderdiffersfromme，letmeaskhimtorememberhowharditisforonewhohasgotafigurewellintohisheadastheVirgin’sgrandmothertoseeitasJoachim。

AMEDIEVALGIRLSCHOOL{8}

ThislastsummerIrevisitedOropa，nearBiella，toseewhatconnectionIcouldfindbetweentheOropachapelsandthoseatVarallo。IwilltakethisopportunityofdescribingthechapelsatOropa，andmoreespeciallytheremarkablefossil，orpetrifiedgirlschool，commonlyknownastheDimora，orSojournoftheVirginMaryintheTemple。

IfIdonottaketheseworkssoseriouslyasthereadermayexpect，letmebeghim，beforeheblamesme，togotoOropaandseetheoriginalsforhimself。HavethegoodpeopleofOropathemselvestakenthemveryseriously？Areweinanatmospherewhereweneedbeatmuchpainstospeakwithbatedbreath？We，asiswellknown，lovetotakeevenourpleasuressadly；theItalianstakeeventheirsadnessallegramente，andcombinedevotionwithamusementinamannerthatweshalldowelltostudyifnotimitate。ForthisbestagreeswithwhatwegathertohavebeenthecustomofChristhimself，who，indeed，neverspeaksofausteritybuttocondemnit。

IfChristianityistobealivingfaith，itmustpenetrateaman’swholelife，sothathecannomoreridhimselfofitthanhecanofhisfleshandbonesorofhisbreathing。TheChristianitythatcanbetakenupandlaiddownasifitwereawatchorabookisChristianityinnameonly。ThetrueChristiancannomorepartfromChristinmirththaninsorrow。And，afterall，whatistheessenceofChristianity？Whatisthekernelofthenut？Surelycommonsenseandcheerfulness，withunflinchingoppositiontothecharlatanismsandPharisaismsofaman’sowntimes。TheessenceofChristianityliesneitherindogma，noryetinabnormallyholylife，butinfaithinanunseenworld，indoingone’sduty，inspeakingthetruth，infindingthetrueliferatherinothersthaninoneself，andinthecertainhopethathewholoseshislifeonthesebehalfsfindsmorethanhehaslost。WhatcanAgnosticismdoagainstsuchChristianityasthis？IshouldbeshockedifanythingIhadeverwrittenorshalleverwriteshouldseemtomakelightofthesethings。IshouldbeshockedalsoifIdidnotknowhowtobeamusedwiththingsthatamiablepeopleobviouslyintendedtobeamusing。

ThereadermayneedtoberemindedthatOropaisamongthesomewhatinfrequentsanctuariesatwhichtheMadonnaandinfantChristarenotwhite，butblack。IshallreturntothispeculiarityofOropalateron，butwillleaveitforthepresent。ForthegeneralcharacteristicsoftheplaceImustreferthereadertomybook，"AlpsandSanctuaries。"{9}Iproposetoconfinemyselfheretothetenoradozenchapelscontaininglife-sizedterra-cottafigures，painteduptonature，thatformoneofthemainfeaturesoftheplace。Atafirstglance，perhaps，allthesechapelswillseemuninteresting；Iventuretothink，however，thatsome，ifnotmostofthem，thoughfallingagooddealshortofthebestworkatVaralloandCrea，arestillintheirownwayofconsiderableimportance。Thefirstchapelwithwhichweneedconcernourselvesisnumbered4，andshowstheConceptionoftheVirginMary。ItrepresentsSt。Anneaskneelingbeforeaterrificdragonor，astheItalianscallit，"insect，"aboutthesizeofaCrystalPalacepleiosaur。This"insect"issupposedtohavejusthaditsheadbadlycrushedbySt。Anne，whoseemstobebeggingitspardon。Thetext"Ipsaconteretcaputtuum"iswrittenoutsidethechapel。Thefigureshavenoartisticinterest。Asregardsdragonsbeingcalledinsects，thereadermayperhapsrememberthattheislandofS。

Giulio，intheLagod’Orta，wasinfestedwithinsetti，whichS。

Giuliodestroyed，andwhichappear，inafrescounderneaththechurchontheisland，tohavebeenmonstrousandferociousdragons；

butIcannotrememberwhethertheirbodiesaredividedintothreesections，andwhetherornotheyhaveexactlysixlegs——withoutwhich，Iamtold，theycannotbetrueinsects。

ThefifthchapelrepresentsthebirthoftheVirgin。Havingobtainedpermissiontogoinsideit，Ifoundthedate1715cutlargeanddeeponthebackofonefigurebeforebaking，andIimaginethatthisdatecoversthewhole。ThereisaQueenAnnefeelingthroughoutthecomposition，andifweweretoldthatthesculptorandFrancisBird，sculptorofthestatueinfrontofSt。Paul’sCathedral，hadstudiedunderthesamemaster，wecouldverywellbelieveit。TheapartmentinwhichtheVirginwasbornisspacious，andinstrikingcontrasttotheoneinwhichsheherselfgavebirthtotheRedeemer。St。Anneoccupiesthecentreofthecomposition，inanenormousbed；onherrightthereisaladyoftheGeorgeCruikshankstyleofbeauty，andontheleftanolderperson。BotharegesticulatingandimpressinguponSt。Annetheenormousobligationshehasjustconferreduponmankind；theyseemalsotobeimploringhernottoovertaxherstrength，but，strangetosay，theyaregivingherneitherflowersnoranythingtoeatanddrink。I

knownootherbirthoftheVirgininwhichSt。Annewantssolittlekeepingup。

Ihaveexplainedinmybook"ExVoto，"{10}butshouldperhapsrepeathere，thatthedistinguishingcharacteristicoftheBirthoftheVirgin，asrenderedbyValsesianartists，isthatSt。Annealwayshaseggsimmediatelyaftertheinfantisborn，andusuallyagooddealmore，whereastheMadonnaneverhasanythingtoeatordrink。TheeggsareinaccordancewithacustomthatstillprevailsamongthepeasantclassesintheValsesia，wherewomenongivingbirthtoachildgenerallyaregivenasabaglione——aneggbeatenupwithalittlewine，orrum，andsugar。EastofMilantheVirgin’smotherdoesnothaveeggs，andIsuppose，fromtheabsenceoftheeggsatOropa，thatthecustomabovereferredtodoesnotprevailintheBiellesedistrict。TheVirginalsoisinvariablywashed。St。

JohntheBaptist，whenheisbornatall，whichisnotveryoften，isalsowashed；butIhavenotobservedthatSt。ElizabethhasanythingliketheattentionpaidherthatisgiventoSt。Anne。

What，however，iswantinghereatOropainmeatanddrinkismadeupinCupids；theyswarmlikefliesonthewalls，clouds，cornices，andcapitalsofcolumns。

Againsttheright-handwallaretwolady-helps，eachwarmingatowelataglowingfire，tobereadyagainstthebabyshouldcomeoutofitsbath；whileintheright-handforegroundwehavethelevatrice，whohavingdischargedhertask，andbeingnowsodisposed，hasremovedthebottlefromthechimney-piece，andputitnearsomebread，fruitandachicken，overwhichsheisabouttodiscusstheconfinementwithtwoothergossips。Thelevatriceisaverycharacteristicfigure，butthebestinthechapelistheoneoftheheadnurse，nearthemiddleofthecomposition；shehasnowtheinfantinfullcharge，andisshowingittoSt。Joachim，withanexpressionasthoughsheweretellinghimthatherhusbandwasamerryman。IamafraidShakespearewasdeadbeforethesculptorwasborn，otherwiseIshouldhavefeltcertainthathehaddrawnJuliet’snursefromthisfigure。AsforthelittleVirginherself，Ibelievehertobeafineboyofabouttenmonthsold。Viewingtheworkasawhole，ifIonlyfeltmoresurewhatartisticmeritreallyis，Ishouldsaythat，thoughthechapelcannotberatedveryhighlyfromsomestandpoints，thereareothersfromwhichitmaybepraisedwarmlyenough。Itisinnocentofanatomy-worship，freefromaffectationorswagger，andnotdevoidofagooddealofhomelynaivete。ItcannomorebecomparedwithTabachettiorDonatellothanHogarthcanwithRembrandtorGiovanniBellini；butasitdoesnottranscendthelimitationsofitsage，soneitherisitwantinginwhatevermeritsthatagepossessed；andthereisnoagewithoutmeritsofsomekind。Thereisnoinscriptionsayingwhomadethefigures，buttraditiongivesthemtoPietroAureggioTermine，ofBiella，commonlycalledAureggio。ThisisconfirmedbytheirstrongresemblancetothoseintheDimoraChapel，inwhichthereisaninscriptionthatnamesAureggioasthesculptor。

ThesixthchapeldealswiththePresentationoftheVirginintheTemple。TheVirginisverysmall，butitmustberememberedthatsheisonlysevenyearsold，andsheisnotnearlysosmallassheisatCrea，where，thoughalife-sizedfigureisintended，theheadishardlybiggerthananapple。SheisrushingupthestepswithopenarmstowardstheHighPriest，whoisstandingatthetop。Forheritisnothingalarming；itistheHighPriestwhoappearsfrightened；butitwillallcomerightintime。TheVirginseemstobesaying，"Why，don’tyouknowme？I’mtheVirginMary。"ButtheHighPriestdoesnotfeelsosureaboutthat，andwillmakefurtherinquiries。Thescene，whichcomprisessometwentyfigures，isanimatedenough，andthoughithardlykindlesenthusiasm，stilldoesnotfailtoplease。ItlooksasthoughofsomewhatolderdatethantheBirthoftheVirginchapel，andIshouldsayshowsmoresignsofdirectValsesianinfluence。InMarocco’sbookaboutOropaitisascribedtoAureggio，butIfinditdifficulttoacceptthis。

Theseventh，andinmanyrespectsmostinterestingchapelatOropa，showswhatisinrealityamedievalItaliangirlschool，asnearlylikethethingitselfastheartistcouldmakeit；weareexpected，however，toseeinthisthehigh-classkindofGirtonCollegeforyounggentlewomenthatwasattachedtotheTempleatJerusalem，underthedirectionoftheChiefPriest’swife，orsomeoneofhisnearfemalerelatives。Hereallwell-to-doJewishyoungwomencompletedtheireducation，andhereaccordinglywefindtheVirgin，whoseparentsdesiredsheshouldshineineveryaccomplishment，andenjoyalltheadvantagestheiramplemeanscommanded。

IhavemetwithnotracesoftheVirginduringtheyearsbetweenherPresentationintheTempleandherbecomingheadgirlatTempleCollege。Theseyears，wemaybeassured，canhardlyhavebeenotherthaneventful；butincidents，orbitsoflife，arelikelivingforms——itisonlyhereandhere，asbyrarechance，thatoneofthemgetsarrestedandfossilised；thegreaternumberdisappearlikethegreaternumberofantediluvianmolluscs，andnoonecansaywhyoneoftheseflies，asitwere，oflifeshouldgetpreservedinambermorethananother。Talk，indeed，aboutluckandcunning；whatagrainofsandasagainstahundredweightiscunning’ssharehereasagainstluck’s。Whatmomentcouldbemorehumdrumandunworthyofspecialrecordthantheonechosenbytheartistforthechapelweareconsidering？Whyshouldthisonegetarrestedinitsflightandmadeimmortalwhensomanyworthieroneshaveperished？Yetpreserveditassuredlyis；itisasthoughsomefairy’swandhadstruckthemedievalMissPinkerton，AmeliaSedley，andotherswhododutyinsteadoftheHebreworiginals。Ithaslockedthemupassleepingbeauties，whosecharmsallmaylookupon。Surelythehoursarelikethewomengrindingatthemill——theoneistakenandtheotherleft，andnonecangivethereasonmorethanhecansaywhyGallioshouldhavewonimmortalitybycaringfornoneof"thesethings。"

Itseemstome，moreover，thatfairieshavechangedtheirpracticenowinthematterofsleepingbeauties，muchasshopkeepershavedoneinRegentStreet。Formerlytheshopkeeperusedtoshutuphisgoodsbehindstrongshutters，sothatnoonemightseethemafterclosinghours。Nowheleaveseverythingopentotheeyeandturnsthegason。Sothefairies，whousedtolockuptheirsleepingbeautiesinimpenetrablethickets，nowleavetheminthemostpublicplacestheycanfind，asknowingthattheywilltheremostcertainlyescapenotice。LookatDeHooghe；lookat"ThePilgrim’sProgress，"

orevenShakespearehimself——howlongtheysleptunawakened，thoughtheywereinbroaddaylightandonthepublicthoroughfaresallthetime。LookatTabachetti，andthemasterpiecesheleftatVarallo。

Hisfiguresthereareexposedtothegazeofeverypasser-by；yetwhoheedsthem？Who，saveaveryfew，evenknowoftheirexistence？

LookagainatGaudenzioFerrari，orthe"DansedesPaysans，"byHolbein，towhichIventuredtocallattentionintheUniversalReview。No，no；ifathingbeinCentralAfrica，itisthegloryofthisagetofinditout；sothefairiesthinkitsafertoconcealtheirprotegesunderashowofopenness；fortheschoolmasterismuchabroad，andthereisnohedgesothickorsothornyasthedulnessofculture。

Itmaybe，again，thateversomanyyearshence，whenMr。Darwin’searth-wormsshallhaveburiedOropahundredsoffeetdeep，someonesinkingawellormakingarailway-cuttingwillunearththesechapels，andwillbelievethemtohavebeenhouses，andtocontaintheexuviaeofthelivingformsthattenantedthem。Inthemeantime，however，letusreturntoaconsiderationofthechapelasitmaynowbeseenbyanyonewhocarestopassthatway。

Theworkconsistsofaboutfortyfiguresinall，notcountingCupids，andisdividedintofourmaindivisions。First，thereisthelargepublicsitting-roomordrawing-roomoftheCollege，wheretheelderyoungladiesareengagedinvariouselegantemployments。

Three，atatabletotheleft，aremakingamitrefortheBishop，asmaybeseenfromthemodelonthetable。Somearemerelyspinningorabouttospin。Oneyounglady，sittingratherapartfromtheothers，isdoinganelaboratepieceofneedleworkatatambour-framenearthewindow；othersaremakinglaceorslippers，probablyforthenewcurate；anotherisstrugglingwithaletter，orperhapsatheme，whichseemstobegivingheragooddealoftrouble，butwhich，whendone，will，Iamsure，bebeautiful。Onedearlittlegirlissimplyreading"PaulandVirginia"underneaththewindow，andissoconcealedthatIhardlythinkshecanbeseenfromtheoutsideatall，thoughfrominsidesheisdelightful；itwaswithgreatregretthatIcouldnotgetherintoanyphotograph。Onemostamiableyoungwomanhasgotachild’sheadonherlap，thechildhavingplayeditselftosleep。Allareindustriouslyandagreeablyemployedinsomewayorother；allareplump；allarenicelooking；

thereisnotoneBeckySharpinthewholeschool；onthecontrary，asin"PiousOrgies，"allispious——orsub-pious——andall，ifnotgreat，isatleasteminentlyrespectable。OnefeelsthatSt。

JoachimandSt。Annecouldnothavechosenaschoolmorejudiciously，andthatifonehaddaughteroneselfthisisexactlywhereonewouldwishtoplaceher。Ifthereisafaultofanykindinthearrangements，itisthattheydonotkeepcatsenough。Theplaceisoverrunwithmice，thoughwhatthesecanfindtoeatIknownot。Itoccurstomealsothattheyoungladiesmightbekeptalittlemorefreeofspiders’webs；butinallthesechapels，bats，miceandspidersaretroublesome。

Offthemaindrawing-roomonthesidefacingthewindowthereisadais，whichisapproachedbyalargeraisedsemicircularstep，higherthantherestofthefloor，butlowerthanthedaisitself。

Thedaisis，ofcourse，reservedforthevenerableLadyPrincipalandtheunder-mistresses，oneofwhom，bytheway，isalittlemoremondainethanmighthavebeenexpected，andisadmiringherselfinalooking-glass——unless，indeed，sheisonlylookingtoseeifthereisaspotofinkonherface。TheLadyPrincipalisseatednearatable，onwhichliesomebooksinexpensivebindings，whichI

imaginetohavebeenpresentedtoherbytheparentsofpupilswhowereleavingschool。Onehasgivenheraphotographicalbum；

anotheralargescrap-book，forillustrationsofallkinds；athirdvolumehasrededges，andispresumablyofadevotionalcharacter。

IfIdaredventureanothercriticism，Ishouldsayitwouldbebetternottokeeptheink-potonthetopofthesebooks。TheLadyPrincipalisbeingreadtobythemonitressfortheweek，whosedutyitwastoreciteselectedpassagesfromthemostapprovedHebrewwriters；sheappearstobeagooddealoutraged，possiblyatthefaultyintonationofthereader，whichshehaslongtriedvainlytocorrect；orperhapsshehasbeenhearingoftheatrociouswayinwhichherforefathershadtreatedtheprophets，andisexplainingtotheyoungladieshowimpossibleitwouldbe，intheirownmoreenlightenedage，foraprophettofailofrecognition。

Onthehalf-dais，asIsupposethelargesemicircularstepbetweenthemainroomandthedaisshouldbecalled，wefind，first，themonitressfortheweek，whostandsupwhilesherecites；andsecondly，theVirginherself，whoistheonlypupilallowedaseatsoneartotheaugustpresenceoftheLadyPrincipal。Sheisostensiblydoingapieceofembroiderywhichisstretchedonacushiononherlap，butIshouldsaythatshewaschieflyinterestedinthenearestoffourprettylittleCupids，whoarealltryingtoattractherattention，thoughtheypaynocourttoanyotheryounglady。IhavesometimeswonderedwhethertheobviouslyscandalisedgestureoftheLadyPrincipalmightnotbedirectedattheseCupids，ratherthanatanythingthemonitressmayhavebeenreading，forshewouldsurelyfindthemdisquieting。Orshemaybesaying，"Why，blessme！IdodeclaretheVirginhasgotanotherhamper，andSt。

Anne’scakesarealwayssoterriblyrich！"Certainlythehamperisthere，closetotheVirgin，andtheLadyPrincipal’sactionmaybewelldirectedatit，butitmayhavebeensenttosomeotheryounglady，andbeputonthesub-daisforpublicexhibition。ItlooksasifitmighthavecomefromFortnumandMason’s，andIhalfexpectedtofindalabel，addressingitto"TheVirginMary，TempleCollege，Jerusalem，"butifevertherewasonethemicehavelongsinceeatenit。TheVirginherselfdoesnotseemtocaremuchaboutit，butifshehasafaultitisthatsheisgenerallyalittleapathetic。

Whosethehamperwas，however，isapointweshallnevernowcertainlydetermine，forthebestfossilisworsethantheworstlivingform。Why，alas！wasnotMr。Edisonalivewhenthischapelwasmade？Wemightthenhavehadadailyphonographicrecitaloftheconversation，andanannouncementmightbeputoutsidethechapels，tellingusatwhathoursthefigureswouldspeak。

Oneitherofsidethemainroomtherearetwoannexesopeningoutfromit；thesearereservedchieflyfortheyoungerchildren，someofwhom，Ithink，arelittleboys。Intheleft-handannex，behindtheladieswhoaremakingamitre，thereisachildwhohasgotacake，andanotherhassomefruit——possiblygiventhembytheVirgin——

andathirdchildisbeggingforsomeofit。ThelightfailedsocompletelyherethatIwasnotabletophotographanyofthesefigures。ItwasadullSeptemberafternoon，andthecloudshadsettledthickroundthechapel，whichisneververylight，andisnearly4000feetabovethesea。Iwaitedtillsuchtwilightasmadeithopelessthatmoredetailcouldbegot——andaqueerghostlyplaceenoughitwastowaitin——butaftergivingtheplateanexposureoffiftyminutes，IsawIcouldgetnomore，anddesisted。

Theselongphotographicexposureshavetheadvantagethatoneiscompelledtostudyaworkindetailthroughmerelackofotheremployment，andthatonecantakeone’snotesinpeacewithoutbeingtemptedtohurryoverthem；butevensoIcontinuallyfindIhaveomittedtonote，andhavecleanforgotten，muchthatIwantlateron。

Intheotherannextherearealsooneortwoyoungerchildren，butitseemstohavebeensetapartforconversationandrelaxationmorethananyotherpartoftheestablishment。

Ihavealreadysaidthattheworkissignedbyaninscriptioninsidethechapel，totheeffectthatthesculpturesarebyPietroAureggioTerminediBiella。Itwillbeseenthattheyoungladiesareexceedinglylikeoneanother，andthattheartistaimedatnothingmorethanafaithfulrenderingofthelifeofhisowntimes。Letusbethankfulthatheaimedatnothingless。Perhapshiswifekeptagirls’school；orhemayhavehadalargefamilyoffat，good-

natureddaughters，whoselittlewayshehadstudiedattentively；atalleventstheworkisfullofspontaneousincident，andcannotfailtobecomemoreandmoreinterestingastheageitrendersfallsfartherbackintothepast。Itistoberegrettedthatmanyartists，betterknownmen，havenotbeensatisfiedwiththehumblerambitionsofthismostamiableandinterestingsculptor。Ifhehasleftusnolabouredlife-studies，hehasatleastdonesomethingforuswhichwecanfindnowhereelse，whichweshouldbeverysorrynottohave，andthefidelityofwhichtoItalianlifeatthebeginningofthelastcenturywillnotbedisputed。

TheeighthchapelisthatoftheSposalizio，iscertainlynotbyAureggio，andIshouldsaywasmainlybythesamesculptorwhodidthePresentationintheTemple。OngoinginsideIfoundthefigureshadcomefrommorethanonesource；someofthemareconstructedsoabsolutelyonValsesianprinciples，asregardstechnique，thatitmaybeassumedtheycamefromVarallo。Eachoftheselastfiguresisinthreepieces，thatarebakedseparatelyandcementedtogetherafterwards，hencetheyaremoreeasilytransported；nomoreclayisusedthanisabsolutelynecessary；andtheoff-sideofthefigureisneglected；theywillbefoundchiefly，ifnotentirely，atthetopofthesteps。Theotherfiguresaremoresolidlybuilt，anddonotremindmeintheirbusinessfeaturesofanythingintheValsesia。

Therewasasculptor，FrancescoSala，ofLocarno（doubtlessthevillageashortdistancebelowVarallo，andnottheLocarnoontheLagoMaggiore），whomadedesignsforsomeoftheOropachapels，andsomeofwhoselettersarestillpreserved，butwhethertheValsesianfiguresinthispresentworkarebyhimornotIcannotsay。

Thestatuesaretwenty-fiveinnumber；Icouldfindnodateorsignature；theworkremindsmeofMontrigone；severalofthefiguresarenotatallbad，andseveralhavehorsehairforhair，asatVarallo。Theeffectofthewholecompositionisbetterthanwehavearighttoexpectfromanysculpturedatingfromthebeginningofthelastcentury。

Theninthchapel，theAnnunciation，presentsnofeatureofinterest；

noryetdoesthetenth，theVisitofMarytoElizabeth。Theeleventh，theNativity，thoughratherbetter，isstillnotremarkable。

Thetwelfth，thePurification，isabsurdlybad，butIdonotknowwhethertheexpressionofstrongpersonaldisliketotheVirginwhichtheHighPriestwearsisintendedasprophetic，orwhetheritistheresultofincompetence，orwhetheritismerelyasmilegonewronginthebaking。ItisamusingtofindMarocco，whohasnotbeenstrictaboutarchaeologicalaccuracyhitherto，complainherethatthereisananachronism，inasmuchassomeyoungecclesiasticsaredressedastheywouldbeatpresent，andoneofthemactuallycarriesawaxcandle。Thisisnotasitshouldbe；inworkslikethoseatOropa，whereimplicitrelianceisjustlyplacedontheearnestendeavoursthathavebeensosuccessfullymadetothoroughlyandcarefullyandpatientlyensuretheaccuracyoftheminutestdetails，itisapitythatevenasingleerrorshouldhaveescapeddetection；this，however，hasmostunfortunatelyhappenedhere，andMaroccofeelsithisdutytoputusonourguard。Heexplainsthatthemistakearosefromthesculptor’shavingtakenbothhisgeneralarrangementandhisdetailsfromsomepictureofthefourteenthorfifteenthcentury，whenthevalueofthestrictesthistoricalaccuracywasnotyetsofullyunderstood。

Itseemstomethatinthematterofaccuracy，priestsandmenofsciencewhetherlayorregularontheonehand，andplainpeoplewhetherlayorregularontheother，aretryingtoplayadifferentgame，andfailtounderstandoneanotherbecausetheydonotseethattheirobjectsarenotthesame。Theclericandthemanofscience（whoisonlytheclericinhislatestdevelopment）aretryingtodevelopathroatwithtwodistinctpassages——onethatshallrefusetopasseventhesmallestgnat，andanotherthatshallgracefullygulpeventhelargestcamel；whereaswemenofthestreetdesirebutonethroat，andarecontentthatthisshallswallownothingbiggerthanapony。Everyoneknowsthatthereisnosucheffectualmeansofdevelopingthepowertoswallowcamelsasincessantwatchfulnessforopportunitiesofstrainingatgnats，andthisshouldexplainmanypassagesthatpuzzleusintheworkbothofourclericsandourscientists。I，notbeingamanofscience，stillcontinuetodowhatIsaidIdidin"AlpsandSanctuaries，"

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