CircumstancestookmetotheHolyLandwithoutacompanion，andcompelledmetovisitBethany，theMountofOlives，andtheChurchoftheSepulchrealone。Iacknowledgemyselftobeagregariousanimal，or，perhaps，ratheroneofthosewhichnaturehasintendedtogoinpairs。AtanyrateIdislikesolitude，andespeciallytravellingsolitude，andwas，therefore，rathersadatheartasI

satonenightatZ-’shotel，inJerusalem，thinkingovermyproposedwanderingsforthenextfewdays。EarlyonthefollowingmorningI

intendedtostart，ofcourseonhorseback，fortheDeadSea，thebanksofJordan，Jericho，andthosemountainsofthewildernessthroughwhichitissupposedthatOurSaviourwanderedforthefortydayswhenthedeviltemptedhim。IwouldthenreturntotheHolyCity，andremainingonlylongenoughtorefreshmyhorseandwipethedustfrommyhandsandfeet，IwouldstartagainforJaffa，andtherecatchacertainAustriansteamerwhichwouldtakemetoEgypt。

Suchwasmyprogramme，andIconfessthatIwasbutillcontentedwithit，seeingthatIwastobealoneduringthetime。

Ihadalreadymadeallmyarrangements，andthoughIhadnoreasonforanydoubtastomypersonalsecurityduringthetrip，Ididnotfeelaltogethersatisfiedwiththem。IintendedtotakeaFrenchguide，ordragoman，whohadbeenwithmeforsomedays，andtoputmyselfunderthepeculiarguardianshipoftwoBedouinArabs，whoweretoaccompanymeaslongasIshouldremaineastofJerusalem。

ThistravellingthroughthedesertundertheprotectionofBedouinswas，inidea，pleasantenough；andImustheredeclarethatIdidnotatallbegrudgethefortyshillingswhichIwastoldbyourBritishconsulthatImustpaythemfortheirtrouble，inaccordancewiththeestablishedtariff。ButIdidbegrudgethefactofthetariff。IwouldratherhavefalleninwithmyfriendlyArabs，asitwerebychance，andhaverewardedtheirfidelityattheendofourjointjourneyingsbyadonationofpiastrestobesettledbymyself，andwhich，undersuchcircumstances，wouldcertainlyhavebeenasagreeabletothemasthestipulatedsum。InthesamewayIdislikehavingwaitersputdowninmybill。IfindthatIpaythemtwiceover，andthuslosemoney；andastheydonotexpecttobesotreated，Ineverhavetheadvantageoftheircivility。Theworld，I

fear，isbecomingtoofondoftariffs。

"Atariff！"saidItotheconsul，feelingthatthewholeromanceofmyexpeditionwouldbedissipatedbysuchanarrangement。"ThenI’llgoalone；I’lltakearevolverwithme。"

"Youcan’tdoit，sir，"saidtheconsul，inadryandsomewhatangrytone。"Youhavenomorerighttoridethroughthatcountrywithoutpayingtheregularpriceforprotection，thanyouhavetostopinZ-

’shotelwithoutsettlingthebill。"

Icouldnotcontestthepoint，soIorderedmyBedouinsfortheappointedday，exactlyasIwouldsendforaticket-porterathome，anddeterminedtomakethebestofit。Thewildunlimitedsands，thedesolationoftheDeadSea，therushingwatersofJordan，theoutlinesofthemountainsofMoab；——thosethingstheconsulartariffcouldnotalter，nordeprivethemofthegloriesoftheirassociation。

Ihadsubmitted，andthearrangementshadbeenmade。Joseph，mydragoman，wastocometomewiththehorsesandanArabgroomatfiveinthemorning，andweweretoencounterourBedouinsoutsidethegateofSt。Stephen，downthehill，wheretheroadturns，closetothetomboftheVirgin。

Iwassittingaloneinthepublicroomatthehotel，fillingmyflaskwithbrandy，——formattersofprimaryimportanceIneverleavetoservant，dragoman，orguide，——whenthewaiterentered，andsaidthatagentlemanwishedtospeakwithme。Thegentlemanhadnotsentinhiscardorname；butanygentlemanwaswelcometomeinmysolitude，andIrequestedthatthegentlemanmightenter。Inappearancethegentlemancertainlywasagentleman，forIthoughtthatIhadneverbeforeseenayoungmanwhoselooksweremoreinhisfavour，orwhosefaceandgaitandoutwardbearingseemedtobetokenbetterbreeding。Hemightbesometwentyortwenty-oneyearsofage，wasslightandwellmade，withveryblackhair，whichheworeratherlong，verydarklongbrighteyes，astraightnose，andteeththatwereperfectlywhite。Hewasdressedthroughoutingreytweedclothing，havingcoat，waistcoat，andtrousersofthesame；andinhishandhecarriedaverybroad-brimmedstrawhat。

"Mr。Jones，Ibelieve，"hesaid，ashebowedtome。Jonesisagoodtravellingname，and，ifthereaderwillallowme，IwillcallmyselfJonesonthepresentoccasion。

"Yes，"Isaid，pausingwiththebrandy-bottleinonehand，andtheflaskintheother。"That’smyname；I’mJones。CanIdoanythingforyou，sir？"

"Why，yes，youcan，"saidhe。"MynameisSmith，——JohnSmith。"

"Praysitdown，Mr。Smith，"Isaid，pointingtoachair。"Willyoudoanythinginthisway？"andIproposedtohandthebottletohim。

"AsfarasIcanjudgefromashortstay，youwon’tfindmuchlikethatinJerusalem。"

HedeclinedtheCognac，however，andimmediatelybeganhisstory。

"Ihear，Mr。Jones，"saidhe，"thatyouaregoingtoMoabto-

morrow。"

"Well，"Ireplied，"Idon’tknowwhetherIshallcrossthewater。

It’snotveryeasy，Itakeit，atalltimes；butIshallcertainlygetasfarasJordan。CanIdoanythingforyouinthoseparts？"

Andthenheexplainedtomewhatwastheobjectofhisvisit。HewasquitealoneinJerusalem，asIwasmyself；andwasstayingatH-

’shotel。HehadheardthatIwasstartingfortheDeadSea，andhadcalledtoaskifIobjectedtohisjoiningme。Hehadfoundhimself，hesaid，verylonely；andashehadheardthatIalsowasalone，hehadventuredtocallandmakehisproposition。Heseemedtobeverybashful，andhalfashamedofwhathewasdoing；andwhenhehaddonespeakinghedeclaredhimselfconsciousthathewasintruding，andexpressedahopethatIwouldnothesitatetosaysoifhissuggestionwerefromanycausedisagreeabletome。

AsaruleIamrathershyofchancetravellingEnglishfriends。IthassofrequentlyhappenedtomethatIhavehadtoblushfortheacquaintanceswhomIhaveselected，thatIseldomindulgeinanycloseintimaciesofthiskind。But，nevertheless，IwastakenwithJohnSmith，inspiteofhisname。Therewassomuchabouthimthatwaspleasant，bothtotheeyeandtotheunderstanding！Onemeetsconstantlywithmenfromcontactwithwhomonerevoltswithoutknowingthecauseofsuchdislike。Thecutoftheirbeardisdispleasing，orthemodeinwhichtheywalkorspeak。But，ontheotherhand，therearemenwhoareattractive，andImustconfessthatIwasattractedbyJohnSmithatfirstsight。Ihesitated，however，foraminute；fortherearesundrythingsofwhichitbehovesatravellertothinkbeforehecanjoinacompanionforsuchajourneyasthatwhichIwasabouttomake。Couldtheyoungmanriseearly，andremaininthesaddlefortenhourstogether？Couldheliveuponhard-boiledeggsandbrandy-and-water？Couldhetakehischanceofatentunderwhichtosleep，andmakehimselfhappywiththebarefactofbeinginthedesert？Hesawmyhesitation，andattributedittoacausewhichwasnotpresentinmymindatthemoment，thoughthesubjectwasoneofthegreatestimportancewhenstrangersconsenttojointhemselvestogetherforatime，andagreetobecomenostrangersonthespurofthemoment。

"OfcourseIwilltakehalftheexpense，"saidhe，absolutelyblushingashementionedthematter。

"Astothattherewillbeverylittle。Youhaveyourownhorse，ofcourse？"

"Oh，yes。"

"Mydragomanandgroom-boywilldoforboth。Butyou’llhavetopayfortyshillingstotheArabs！There’snogettingoverthat。Theconsulwon’tevenlookafteryourdeadbody，ifyougetmurdered，withoutgoingthroughthatceremony。"

Mr。Smithimmediatelyproducedhispurse，whichhetenderedtome。

"Ifyouwillmanageitall，"saidhe，"itwillmakeitsomuchtheeasier，andIshallbeinfinitelyobligedtoyou。"ThisofcourseI

declinedtodo。Ihadnobusinesswithhispurse，andexplainedtohimthatifwewenttogetherwecouldsettlethatonourreturntoJerusalem。"Butcouldhegothroughreallyhardwork？"Iasked。Heansweredmewithanassurancethathewouldandcoulddoanythinginthatwaythatitwaspossibleformantoperform。Asforeatinganddrinkinghecarednothingaboutit，andwouldundertaketobeastiratanyhourofthemorningthatmightbenamed。Asforsleepingaccommodation，hedidnotcareifhekepthisclothesonforaweektogether。Helookedslightandweak；buthespokesowell，andthatwithoutboasting，thatIultimatelyagreedtohisproposal，andinafewminuteshetookhisleaveofme，promisingtobeatZ-’sdoorwithhishorseatfiveo’clockonthefollowingmorning。

"Iwishyou’dallowmetoleavemypursewithyou，"hesaidagain。

"Icannotthinkofit。Thereisnopossibleoccasionforit，"I

saidagain。"Ifthereisanythingtopay，I’llaskyouforitwhenthejourneyisover。Thatfortyshillingsyoumustforkout。It’salawoftheMedesandPersians。"

"I’dbettergiveityouatonce，"hesaidagain，offeringmemoney。

ButIwouldnothaveit。ItwouldbequitetimeenoughforthatwhentheArabswereleavingus。

"Because，"headded，"strangers，Iknow，aresometimessuspiciousaboutmoney；andIwouldnot，forworlds，haveyouthinkthatI

wouldputyoutoexpense。"IassuredhimthatIdidnotthinkso，andthenthesubjectwasdropped。

Hewas，atanyrate，uptohistime，forwhenIcamedownonthefollowingmorningIfoundhiminthenarrowstreet，thefirstonhorseback。Joseph，theFrenchman，wasstrappingontoaroughponyourbelongings，andwasstaringatMr。Smith。Mynewfriend，unfortunately，couldnotspeakawordofFrench，andthereforeIhadtoexplaintothedragomanhowithadcometopassthatourpartywastobeenlarged。

"ButtheBedouinswillexpectfullpayforboth，"saidhe，alarmed。

Meninthatclass，andespeciallyOrientals，alwaysthinkthateveryarrangementoflife，letitbemadeinwhatwayitwill，ismadewiththeintentionofsavingsomeexpense，orcheatingsomebodyoutofsomemoney。Theydonotunderstandthatmencanhaveanyotherobject，andareeverontheirguardlestthesavingshouldbemadeattheircost，orlesttheyshouldbethevictimsofthefraud。

"Allright，"saidI。

"Ishallberesponsible，Monsieur，"saidthedragoman，piteously。

"Itshallbeallright，"saidI，again。"Ifthatdoesnotsatisfyyou，youmayremainbehind。"

"IfMonsieursaysitisallright，ofcourseitisso；"andthenhecompletedhisstrapping。Wetookblanketswithus，ofwhichIhadtoborrowtwooutofthehotelformyfriendSmith，asmallhamperofprovisions，asackcontainingforageforthehorses，andalargeemptyjar，sothatwemightsupplyourselveswithwaterwhenleavingtheneighbourhoodofwellsforanyconsiderabletime。

"Ioughttohavebroughtthesethingsformyself，"saidSmith，quiteunhappyatfindingthathehadthrownonmethenecessityofcateringforhim。ButIlaughedathim，sayingthatitwasnothing；

heshoulddoasmuchformeanothertime。IampreparedtoownthatIdonotwillinglyrushup-stairsandloadmyselfwithblanketsoutofstrangeroomsformenwhomIdonotknow；nor，asarule，doI

makealltheSmithsoftheworldfreeofmycanteen。But，withreferencetothisfellowIdidfeelmorethanordinarilygood-

naturedandunselfish。Therewassomethinginthetoneofhisvoicewhichwassatisfactory；andIshouldreallyhavefeltvexedhadanythingoccurredatthelastmomenttopreventhisgoingwithme。

LetitbearulewitheverymantocarryanEnglishsaddlewithhimwhentravellingintheEast。OfwhatmaterialisformedthenethermanofaTurkIhaveneverbeeninformed，butIamsurethatitisnotfleshandblood。Nofleshandblood，——simplyfleshandblood，——

couldwithstandthewearandtearofaTurkishsaddle。Thisbeingthecase，andtheconsequencesbeingwellknowntome，IwasgrievedtofindthatSmithwasnotproperlyprovided。Hewasseatedononeofthosehard，red，high-pointedmachines，inwhichtheshovelsintendedtoactasstirrupsareattachedinsuchamanner，andhangatsuchanangle，astobeabsolutelydestructivetothelegofaChristian。ThereisnopartoftheChristianbodywithwhichtheTurkishsaddlecomesincontactthatdoesnotbecomemoreorlessmacerated。Ihavesatinonefordays，butIleftitaflayedman；

and，therefore，IwassorryforSmith。

Iexplainedthistohim，takingholdofhislegbythecalftoshowhowtheleatherwouldchafehim；butitseemedtomethathedidnotquitelikemyinterference。"Nevermind，"saidhe，twitchinghislegaway，"Ihaveriddeninthiswaybefore。"

"Thenyoumusthavesufferedtheverymischief？"

"Onlyalittle，andIshallbeusedtoitnow。Youwillnothearmecomplain。"

"Byheavens，youmighthaveheardmecomplainamileoffwhenIcametotheendofajourneyIoncetook。IroaredlikeabullwhenI

begantocool。Joseph，couldyounotgetaEuropeansaddleforMr。

Smith？"ButJosephdidnotseemtolikeMr。Smith，anddeclaredsuchathingtobeimpossible。NoEuropeaninJerusalemwouldthinkoflendingsopreciousanarticle，excepttoaverydearfriend。

JosephhimselfwasonanEnglishsaddle，andImadeupmymindthatafterthefirststage，wewouldbribehimtomakeanexchange。Andthenwestarted。

TheBedouinswerenotwithus，butweweretomeetthem，asIhavesaidbefore，outsideSt。Stephen’sgate。"Andiftheyarenotthere，"saidJoseph，"weshallbesuretocomeacrossthemontheroad。"

"Notthere！"saidI。"Howabouttheconsul’stariff，iftheydon’tkeeptheirpartoftheengagement？"ButJosephexplainedtomethattheirpartoftheengagementreallyamountedtothis，——thatweshouldrideintotheircountrywithoutmolestation，providedthatsuchandsuchpaymentsweremade。

ItwastheperiodofEaster，andJerusalemwasfullofpilgrims。

Evenatthatearlyhourofthemorningwecouldhardlymakeourwaythroughthenarrowstreets。ItmustbeunderstoodthatthereisnoaccommodationinthetownforthefourteenorfifteenthousandstrangerswhoflocktotheHolySepulchreatthisperiodoftheyear。Manyofthemsleepoutintheopenair，lyingonlowbencheswhichrunalongtheoutsidewallsofthehouses，orevenontheground，wrappedintheirthickhoodsandcloaks。Slumbererssuchastheseareeasilydisturbed，noraretheydetainedlongattheirtoilets。Theyshakethemselveslikedogs，andgrowlandstretchthemselves，andthentheyarereadyfortheday。

Werodeoutofthetowninalongfile。Firstwentthegroom-boy；I

forgethisproperSyrianappellation，butweusedtocallhimMucherry，thatsoundbeinginsomesortlikethename。Thenfollowedthehorsewiththeforageandblankets，andnexttohimmyfriendSmithintheTurkishsaddle。Iwasbehindhim，andJosephbroughtuptherear。WemovedslowlydowntheViaDolorosa，notingthespotatwhichourSaviourissaidtohavefallenwhilebearinghiscross；wepassedbyPilate’shouse，andpausedatthegateoftheTemple，——thegatewhichoncewasbeautiful，——lookingdownintotheholeofthepoolinwhichthemaimedandhaltwerehealedwheneverthewatersmoved。Whatnamestheyare！AndyetthereatJerusalemtheyarebandiedtoandfrowithaslittlereverenceasarethefancifulappellationsgivenbyguidestorocksandstonesandlittlelakesinallcountriesoverrunbytourists。

"Forthosewhowouldstillfainbelieve，——letthemstayathome，"

saidmyfriendSmith。

"Forthosewhocannotdividethewheatfromthechaff，letTHEMstayathome，"Ianswered。AndthenwerodeoutthroughSt。Stephen’sgate，havingthemountainofthemenofGalileedirectlybeforeus，andtheMountofOlivesalittletoourright，andtheValleyofJehoshaphatlyingbetweenusandit。"Ofcourseyouknowalltheseplacesnow？"saidSmith。IansweredthatIdidknowthemwell。

"AndwasitnotbetterforyouwhenyouknewthemonlyinHolyWrit？"heasked。

"No，byJove，"saidI。"Themountainsstandwheretheyeverstood。

Thesamevalleysarestillgreenwiththemorningdew，andthewater-coursesareunchanged。ThechildrenofMahometmaybuildtheirtawdrytempleonthethreshing-floorwhichDavidboughtthattheremightstandtheLord’shouse。Manmayundowhatmandid，eventhoughthedoerwasSolomon。ButherewehaveGod’shandiworkandHisownevidences。"

AtthebottomofthesteepdescentfromthecitygatewecametothetomboftheVirgin；andbyspecialagreementmadewithJosephweleftourhorseshereforafewmoments，inorderthatwemightdescendintothesubterraneanchapelunderthetomb，inwhichmasswasatthismomentbeingsaid。Thereissomethingawfulinthatchapel，when，asatthepresentmoment，itiscrowdedwithEasternworshippersfromtheveryaltaruptothetopofthedarkstepsbywhichthedescentismade。ItmustberememberedthatEasternworshippersarenotlikethechurchgoersofLondon，orevenofRomeorCologne。Theyarewildmenofvariousnationsandraces，——

MaronitesfromLebanonRoumelians，Candiotes，CoptsfromUpperEgypt，RussiansfromtheCrimea，ArmeniansandAbyssinians。TheysavourstronglyofOrientallifeandofOrientaldirt。Theyarecladinskinsorhairycloakswithhugehoods。Theirheadsareshaved，andtheirfacescoveredwithshort，grisly，fiercebeards。

Theyaresilentmostly，lookingoutoftheireyesferociously，asthoughmurderwereintheirthoughts，andrapine。Buttheyneverslouch，orcringeintheirbodies，orshuffleintheirgait。Dirty，fierce-looking，uncouth，repellentastheyare，thereisalwaysaboutthemasomethingofpersonaldignitywhichisnotcompatiblewithanEnglishman’sordinaryhatandpantaloons。

Aswewereabouttodescend，preparingtomakeourwaythroughthecrowd，Smithtookholdofmyarm。"Thatwillneverdo，mydearfellow，"saidI，"thejobwillbetoughenoughforasinglefile，butweshouldnevercutourwaytwoandtwo。I’mbroad-shoulderedandwillgofirst。"SoIdid，andgraduallyweworkedourwayintothebodyofthechapel。HowisitthatEnglishmencanpushthemselvesanywhere？Thesemenwerefierce-looking，andhadmurderandrapine，asIhavesaid，almostintheireyes。Onewouldhavesupposedthattheywerenotlambsordoves，capableofbeingthrusthereortherewithoutangerontheirpart；andthey，too，wereallanxioustodescendandapproachthealtar。Yetwedidwinourwaythroughthem，andapparentlynomanwasangrywithus。Idoubt，afterall，whetheraferociouseyeandastrongsmellanddirtaresoefficaciousincreatingaweandobedienceinothers，asanopenbrowandtracesofsoapandwater。Iknowthis，atleast，——thatadirtyMaronitewouldmakeverylittleprogress，ifheattemptedtoshovehiswayunfairlythroughacrowdofEnglishmenatthedoorofaLondontheatre。Wedidshoveunfairly，andwedidmakeprogress，tillwefoundourselvesinthecentreofthedensecrowdcollectedinthebodyofthechapel。

Havinggotsofar，ournextobjectwastogetoutagain。Theplacewasdark，mysterious，andfullofstrangeodours；butdarkness，mystery，andstrangeodourssoonlosetheircharmswhenmenhavemuchworkbeforethem。JosephhadmadeapointofbeingallowedtoattendmassbeforethealtaroftheVirgin，butaveryfewminutessufficedforhisprayers。Soweagainturnedroundandpushedourwaybackagain，Smithstillfollowinginmywake。Themenwhohadletuspassonceletuspassagainwithoutoppositionorshowofanger。Tothemtheoccasionwasveryholy。Theywerestretchingouttheirhandsineverydirection，withlongtapers，inorderthattheymightobtainasparkofthesacredfirewhichwasburningononeofthealtars。Aswemadeourwayoutwepassedmanywho，withdumbmotions，beggedustoassistthemintheirobject。Andwedidassistthem，gettinglightsfortheirtapers，handingthemtoandfro，andusingtheauthoritywithwhichweseemedtobeinvested。

ButSmith，Iobserved，wasmuchmorecourteousinthiswaytothewomenthantothemen，asIdidnotforgettoremindhimwhenwewereafterwardsonourroadtogether。

RemountingourhorseswerodeslowlyupthewindingascentoftheMountofOlives，turningroundatthebrowofthehilltolookbackoverJerusalem。SometimesIthinkthatofallspotsintheworldthisoneshouldbethespotmostcherishedinthememoryofChristians。ItwastherethatHestoodwhenHeweptoverthecity。

Somuchwedoknow，thoughweareignorant，andevershallbeso，ofthesiteofHiscrossandofthetomb。Andthenwedescendedontheeasternsideofthehill，passingthroughBethany，thetownofLazarusandhissisters，andturnedourfacessteadilytowardsthemountainsofMoab。

HithertowehadmetnoBedouins，andIinterrogatedmydragomanaboutthemmorethanonce；buthealwaystoldmethatitdidnotsignify；weshouldmeetthem，hesaid，beforeanydangercouldarise。"Asfordanger，"saidI，"IthinkmoreofthisthanIdooftheArabs，"andIputmyhandonmyrevolver。"Butastheyagreedtobehere，heretheyoughttobe。Don’tyoucarryarevolver，Smith？"

Smithsaidthatheneverhaddoneso，butthathewouldtakethechargeofmineifIliked。Tothis，however，Idemurred。"Ineverpartwithmypistoltoanyone，"Isaid，ratherdrily。Butheexplainedthatheonlyintendedtosignifythatifthereweredangertobeencountered，hewouldbegladtoencounterit；andIfullybelievedhim。"Weshan’thavemuchfighting，"Ireplied；"butiftherebeany，thetoolwillcomereadiesttothehandofitsmaster。

ButifyoumeantoremainherelongIwouldadviseyoutogetone。

TheseOrientalsareapeoplewithwhomappearancesgoalongway，and，asarule，fearandrespectmeanthesamethingwiththem。A

pistolhangingoveryourloinsisnogreattroubletoyou，andlooksasthoughyoucouldbite。Manyadoggoesthroughtheworldwellbymerelyshowinghisteeth。"

Andthenmycompanionbegantotalkofhimself。"Hedidnot，"hesaid，"meantoremaininSyriaverylong。"

"NorIeither，"saidI。"Ihavedonewiththispartoftheworldforthepresent，andshalltakethenextsteamerfromJaffaforAlexandria。IshallonlyhaveonenightinJerusalemonmyreturn。"

Afterthisheremainedsilentforafewmomentsandthendeclaredthatthatalsohadbeenhisintention。Hewasalmostashamedtosayso，however，becauseitlookedasthoughhehadresolvedtohookhimselfontome。Soheanswered，expressingalmostregretatthecircumstance。

"Don’tletthattroubleyou，"saidI；"Ishallbedelightedtohaveyourcompany。Whenyouknowmebetter，asIhopeyouwilldo，youwillfindthatifsuchwerenotthecaseIshouldtellyousoasfrankly。IshallremaininCairosomelittletime；sothatbeyondourarrivalinEgypt，Icananswerfornothing。"

HesaidthatheexpectedlettersatAlexandriawhichwouldgovernhisfuturemovements。Ithoughtheseemedsadashesaidso，andimagined，fromhismanner，thathedidnotexpectveryhappytidings。IndeedIhadmadeupmymindthathewasbynomeansfreefromcareorsorrow。Hehadnottheairofamanwhocouldsayofhimselfthathewas"totusteresatquerotundus。"ButIhadnowishtoinquire，andthematterwouldhavedroppedhadhenothimselfadded——"IfearthatIshallmeetacquaintancesinEgyptwhomitwillgivemenopleasuretosee。"

"Then，"saidI，"ifIwereyou，IwouldgotoConstantinopleinstead；——indeed，anywhereratherthanfallamongfriendswhoarenotfriendly。Andthenearerthefriendis，themoreonefeelsthatsortofthing。Tomywayofthinking，thereisnothingonearthsopleasantasapleasantwife；butthen，whatistheresodamnableasonethatisunpleasant？"

"Areyouamarriedman？"heinquired。Allhisquestionswereputinalowtoneofvoicewhichseemedtogivetothemanairofspecialinterest，andmadeonealmostfeelthattheywereaskedwithsomespecialviewtoone’sindividualwelfare。Nowthefactis，thatI

amamarriedmanwithafamily；butIamnotmuchgiventotalktostrangersaboutmydomesticconcerns，and，therefore，thoughIhadnoparticularobjectinview，Ideniedmyobligationsinthisrespect。"No，"saidI；"Ihavenotcometothatpromotionyet。I

amtoofrequentlyonthemovetowritemyselfdownasPaterfamilias。"

"Thenyouknownothingaboutthatpleasantnessofwhichyouspokejustnow？"

"Noroftheunpleasantness，thankGod；mypersonalexperiencesarealltocome，——asalsoareyours，Ipresume？"

Itwaspossiblethathehadhamperedhimselfwithsomewoman，andthatshewastomeethimatAlexandria。Poorfellow！thoughtI。

Buthisunhappinesswasnotofthatkind。"No，"saidhe；"Iamnotmarried；Iamallaloneintheworld。"

"ThenIcertainlywouldnotallowmyselftobetroubledbyunpleasantacquaintances。"

ItwasnowfourhourssincewehadleftJerusalem，andwehadarrivedattheplaceatwhichitwasproposedthatweshouldbreakfast。Therewasalargewellthere，andshadeaffordedbyarockunderwhichthewatersprung；andtheArabshadconstructedatankoutofwhichthehorsescoulddrink，sothattheplacewasordinarilyknownasthefirststageoutofJerusalem。

Smithhadsaidnotawordabouthissaddle，orcomplainedinanywayofdiscomfort，sothatIhadintruthforgottenthesubject。Othermattershadcontinuallypresentedthemselves，andIhadneverevenaskedhimhowhehadfared。Inowjumpedfrommyhorse，butI

perceivedatoncethathewasunabletodoso。Hesmiledfaintly，ashiseyecaughtmine，butIknewthathewantedassistance。"Ah，"

saidI，"thatconfoundedTurkishsaddlehasalreadygalledyourskin。Iseehowitis；Ishallhavetodoctoryouwithalittlebrandy，——externallyapplied，myfriend。"ButIlenthimmyshoulder，andwiththatassistancehegotdown，verygentlyandslowly。

Weateourbreakfastwithagoodwill；breadandcoldfowlandbrandy-and-water，withahard-boiledeggbywayofafinaldelicacy；

andthenIbegantobargainwithJosephfortheloanofhisEnglishsaddle。IsawthatSmithcouldnotgetthroughthejourneywiththatmonstrousTurkishaffair，andthathewouldgoonwithoutcomplainingtillhefaintedorcametosomeothersignalgrief。ButtheFrenchman，seeingtheplightinwhichwewere，wasdisposedtodriveaveryhardbargain。Hewantedfortyshillings，thepriceofapairofliveBedouins，fortheaccommodation，anddeclaredthat，eventhen，heshouldmakethesacrificeonlyoutofconsiderationtome。

"Verywell，"saidI。"I’mtolerablytoughmyself；andI’llchangewiththegentleman。ThechancesarethatIshallnotbeinaveryliberalhumourwhenIreachJaffawithstifflimbsandasoreskin。

Ihaveaverygoodmemory，Joseph。"

"I’lltakethirtyshillings，Mr。Jones；thoughIshallhavetogroanallthewaylikeacondemneddevil。"

Istruckabargainwithhimatlastforfive-and-twenty，andsethimtoworktomakethenecessarychangeonthehorses。"Itwillbejustthesamethingtohim，"IsaidtoSmith。"Ifindthatheisasmuchusedtooneastotheother。"

"Buthowmuchmoneyareyoutopayhim？"heasked。"Oh，nothing，"I

replied。"GivehimafewpiastreswhenyoupartwithhimatJaffa。"

IdonotknowwhyIshouldhavefeltthusinclinedtopaymoneyoutofmypocketforthisSmith，——amanwhomIhadonlyseenforthefirsttimeontheprecedingevening，andwhosetemperamentwassoessentiallydifferentfrommyown；butsoIdid。Iwouldhavedonealmostanythinginreasonforhiscomfort；andyethewasamelancholyfellow，withgoodinwardpluckasIbelieved，butwithoutthatoutwardshowofdashandhardihoodwhichIconfessIlovetosee。"PraytellhimthatI’llpayhimforit，"saidhe。"We’llmakethatallright，"Ianswered；andthenweremounted，——notwithoutsomedifficultyonhispart。"Youshouldhaveletmerubinthatbrandy，"Isaid。"Youcan’tconceivehowefficaciouslyIwouldhavedoneit。"Buthemademenoanswer。

AtnoonwemetacaravanofpilgrimscomingupfromJordan。Theremightbesomethreeorfourhundred，butthenumberseemedtobetreblethat，fromthelooseandstragglinglineinwhichtheyjourneyed。Itwasaverysingularsight，astheymovedslowlyalongthenarrowpaththroughthesand，comingoutofadefileamongthehills，whichwasperhapsaquarterofamileinfrontofus，passingusaswestoodstillbythewayside，andthenwindingagainoutofsightonthetrackoverwhichwehadcome。Somerodeoncamels，——awholefamily，inmanycases，beingperchedonthesameanimal。I

observedaveryoldmanandaveryoldwomanslunginpanniersoveracamel’sback，——notsuchpanniersasmightbebefittingsuchapurpose，butsquarebaskets，sothattheheadsandheelsofeachoftheoldcouplehungoutoftherearandfront。"Surelythejourneywillbetheirdeath，"IsaidtoJoseph。"Yesitwill，"hereplied，quitecoolly；"butwhatmatterhowsoontheydienowthattheyhavebathedinJordan？"Verymanyrodeondonkeys；two，generally，oneachdonkey；others，whohadcommandofmoney，onhorses；butthegreaternumberwalked，toilingpainfullyfromJerusalemtoJerichoonthefirstday，sleepingthereintentsandgoingtobatheonthesecondday，andthenreturningfromJerichotoJerusalemonthethird。Thepilgrimageismadethroughoutinaccordancewithfixedrules，andthereisatariffforthetentaccommodationatJericho，——

somuchperheadpernight，includingtheuseofhotwater。

Standingthere，closebythewayside，wecouldseenotonlythegarmentsandfacesofthesestrangepeople，butwecouldwatchtheirgesturesandformsomeopinionofwhatwasgoingonwithintheirthoughts。Theyweremuchquieter，——tamer，asitwere，——thanEnglishmenwouldbeundersuchcircumstances。Thosewhowerecarriedseemedtositontheirbeastsinpassivetranquillity，neitherenjoyingnorsufferinganything。TheirobjecthadbeentowashinJordan，——todothatonceintheirlives；——andtheyhadwashedinJordan。Thebenefitexpectedwasnottobeimmediatelyspiritual。Noearnestprayerfulnesswasconsiderednecessaryaftertheceremony。TothesemembersoftheGreekChristianChurchithadbeenhandeddownfromfathertosonthatwashinginJordanonceduringlifewasefficacioustowardssalvation。Andthereforethejourneyhadbeenmadeatterriblecostandterriblerisk；forthesepeoplehadcomefromafar，andwerefromtheirhabitsbutlittlecapableoflongjourneys。Manydieunderthetoil；butthismattersnotiftheydonotdiebeforetheyhavereachedJordan。Somefewthereare，undoubtedly，moreecstaticinthisgreatdeedoftheirreligion。OnemanIespeciallynoticedonthisday。HehadboundhimselftomakethepilgrimagefromJerusalemtotheriverwithonefootbare。Hewasofabetterclass，andwasevennoblydressed，asthoughitwereapartofhisvowtoshowtoallmenthathedidthisdeed，wealthyandgreatthoughhewas。Hewasafineman，perhapsthirtyyearsofage，withawell-grownbearddescendingonhisbreast，andathisgirdlehecarriedabraceofpistols。

ButneverinmylifehadIseenbodilypainsoplainlywritteninaman’sface。Thesweatwasfallingfromhisbrow，andhiseyeswerestrainedandbloodshotwithagony。Hehadnostick，hisvow，I

presume，debarringhimfromsuchassistance，andhelimpedalong，puttingtothegroundtheheeloftheunprotectedfoot。Icouldseeit，anditwasamassofblood，andsores，andbrokenskin。AnIrishgirlwouldwalkfromJerusalemtoJerichowithoutshoes，andbenotapennytheworseforit。ThispoorfellowclearlysufferedsomuchthatIwasalmostinclinedtothinkthatintheperformanceofhispenancehehaddonesomethingtoaggravatehispain。Thosearoundhimpaidnoattentiontohim，andthedragomanseemedtothinknothingoftheaffairwhatever。"ThosefoolsofGreeksdonotunderstandtheChristianreligion，"hesaid，beinghimselfaLatinorRomanCatholic。

AtthetailofthelineweencounteredtwoBedouins，whowereinchargeofthecaravan，andJosephatonceaddressedthem。Themenweremounted，oneonaverysorry-lookingjade，buttheotheronagoodstoutArabbarb。Theyhadgunsslungbehindtheirbacks，colouredhandkerchiefsontheirheads，andtheyworethestripedbernouse。Theparleywentonforabouttenminutes，duringwhichtheprocessionofpilgrimswoundoutofsight；anditendedinourbeingaccompaniedbythetwoArabs，whothuslefttheirgreaterchargetotakecareofitselfbacktothecity。IunderstoodafterwardsthattheyhadendeavouredtopersuadeJosephthatwemightjustaswellgoonalone，merelysatisfyingthedemandofthetariff。ButhehadpointedoutthatIwasaparticularman，andthatundersuchcircumstancesthefinalsettlementmightbedoubtful。Sotheyturnedandaccompaniedus；but，asamatteroffact，weshouldhavebeenaswellwithoutthem。

ThesunwasbeginningtofallintheheavenswhenwereachedtheactualmarginoftheDeadSea。Wehadseentheglitterofitsstillwatersforalongtimepreviously，shiningunderthesunasthoughitwerenotreal。Wehaveoftenheard，andsomeofushaveseen，howeffectsoflightandshadetogetherwillproducesovividanappearanceofwaterwherethereisnowater，astodeceivethemostexperienced。Butthereversewasthecasehere。Therewasthelake，andthereithadbeenbeforeoureyesforthelasttwohours；

andyetitlooked，thenandnow，asthoughitwereanimageofalake，andnotrealwater。Ihadlongsincemadeupmymindtobatheinit，feelingwellconvincedthatIcoulddosowithoutharmtomyself，andIhadbeenendeavouringtopersuadeSmithtoaccompanyme；buthepositivelyrefused。Hewouldbathe，hesaid，neitherintheDeadSeanorintheriverJordan。Hedidnotlikebathing，andpreferredtodohiswashinginhisownroom。OfcourseIhadnothingfurthertosay，andbeggedthat，underthesecircumstances，hewouldtakechargeofmypurseandpistolswhileIwasinthewater。Thisheagreedtodo；buteveninthishewasstrangeandalmostuncivil。Iwastobathefromthefarthestpointofalittleisland，intowhichtherewasaroughcausewayfromthelandmadeofstonesandbrokenpiecesofwood，andIexhortedhimtogowithmethither；butheinsistedonremainingwithhishorseonthemainlandatsomelittledistancefromtheisland。Hedidnotfeelinclinedtogodowntothewater’sedge，hesaid。

IconfessthatatthismomentIalmostsuspectedthathewasgoingtoplaymefoul，andIhesitated。Hesawinaninstantwhatwaspassingthroughmymind。"Youhadbettertakeyourpistolandmoneywithyou；theywillbequitesafeonyourclothes。"Buttohavekeptthethingsnowwouldhaveshownsuspiciontooplainly，andasI

couldnotbringmyselftodothat，Igavethemup。IhavesometimesthoughtthatIwasafooltodoso。

Iwentawaybymyselftotheendoftheisland，andthenIdidbathe。Itisimpossibletoconceiveanythingmoredesolatethantheappearanceoftheplace。Thelandshelvesverygraduallyawaytothewater，andthewholemargin，tothebreadthofsometwentyorthirtyfeet，isstrewnwiththedebrisofrushes，bitsoftimber，andoldwhitewitheredreeds。Whencethesebitsoftimberhavecomeitseemsdifficulttosay。Theappearanceisasthoughthewaterhadrecededandleftthemthere。IhavehearditsaidthatthereisnovegetationneartheDeadSea；butsuchisnotthecase，fortheserushesdogrowonthebank。Ifounditdifficultenoughtogetintothewater，forthegroundshelvesdownveryslowly，andisroughwithstonesandlargepiecesofhalf-rottenwood；moreover，whenI

wasinnearlyuptomyhipsthewaterknockedmedown；indeed，itdidsowhenIhadgoneasfarasmyknees，butIrecoveredmyself；

andbyperseverancedidproceedsomewhatfarther。Itmustnotbeimaginedthatthisknockingdownwaseffectedbythemovementofthewater。Thereisnosuchmovement。Everythingisperfectlystill，andthefluidseemshardlytobedisplacedbytheentranceofthebody；buttheeffectisthatone’sfeetaretrippedup，andthatonefallsprostrateontothesurface。Thewaterissostrongandbuoyant，that，whenaboveafewfeetindepthhastobeencountered，thestrengthandweightofthebatherarenotsufficienttokeepdownhisfeetandlegs。Ithenessayedtoswim；butIcouldnotdothisintheordinaryway，asIwasunabletokeepenoughofmybodybelowthesurface；sothatmyheadandfaceseemedtobepropelleddownuponit。

Iturnedroundandfloated，buttheglareofthesunwassopowerfulthatIcouldnotremainlonginthatposition。However，IhadbathedintheDeadSea，andwassofarsatisfied。

Anythingmoreabominabletothepalatethanthiswater，ifitbewater，Ineverhadinsidemymouth。Iexpectedittobeextremelysalt，andnodoubt，ifitwereanalysed，suchwouldbetheresult；

butthereisaflavourinitwhichkillsthesalt。Noattemptcanbemadeatdescribingthistaste。ItmaybeimaginedthatIdidnotdrinkheartily，merelytakingupadroportwowithmytonguefromthepalmofmyhand；butitseemedtomeasthoughIhadbeendrenchedwithit。Evenbrandywouldnotrelievemefromit。Andthenmywholebodywasinamess，andIfeltasthoughIhadbeenrubbedwithpitch。Lookingatmylimbs，Isawnosignonthemofthefluid。Theyseemedtodryfromthisastheyusuallydofromanyotherwater；butstillthefeelingremained。However，IwastoridefromhencetoaspotonthebanksofJordan，whichIshouldreachinanhour，andatwhichIwouldwash；soIclothedmyself，andpreparedformydeparture。

SeatedinmypositionintheislandIwasunabletoseewhatwasgoingonamongtheremainderoftheparty，andthereforecouldnottellwhethermypistolsandmoneywassafe。Idressed，therefore，ratherhurriedly，andongettingagaintotheshore，foundthatMr。

JohnSmithhadnotlevanted。HewasseatedonhishorseatsomedistancefromJosephandtheArabs，andhadnoappearanceofbeinginleaguewiththose，nodoubt，worthyguides。Icertainlyhadsuspectedaruse，andnowwasangrywithmyselfthatIhaddoneso；

andyet，inLondon，onewouldnottrustone’smoneytoastrangerwhomonehadmettwenty-fourhourssinceinacoffee-room！Why，then，doitwithastrangerwhomonechancedtomeetinadesert？

"Thanks，"Isaid，ashehandedmemybelongings。"IwishIcouldhaveinducedyoutocomeinalso。TheDeadSeaisnowatyourelbow，and，therefore，youthinknothingofit；butintenorfifteenyears’time，youwouldbegladtobeabletotellyourchildrenthatyouhadbathedinit。"

"Ishallneverhaveanychildrentocareforsuchtidings，"hereplied。

TheriverJordan，forsomemilesabovethepointatwhichitjoinstheDeadSea，runsthroughverysteepbanks，——bankswhicharealmostprecipitous，——andis，asitwere，guardedbythethicktreesandbusheswhichgrowuponitssides。Thisissomuchthecase，thatonemayride，aswedid，foraconsiderabledistancealongthemargin，andnotbeableeventoapproachthewater。Ihadafancyforbathinginsomespotofmyownselection，insteadofgoingtotheopenshorefrequentedbyallthepilgrims；butIwasbaffledinthis。WhenIdidforcemywaydowntotheriverside，Ifoundthatthewaterransorapidly，andthatthebushesandboughsoftreesgrewsofaroverandintothestream，astomakeitimpossibleformetobathe。Icouldnothavegotinwithoutmyclothes，andhavinggotin，Icouldnothavegotoutagain。Iwas，thereforeobligedtoputupwiththeopenmuddyshoretowhichthebathersdescend，andatwhichwemaypresumethatJoshuapassedwhenhecameoverasoneofthetwelvespiestospyouttheland。AndevenhereIcouldnotgofullintothestreamasIwouldfainhavedone，lestIshouldbecarrieddown，andsohaveassistedtowhitentheshoresoftheDeadSeawithmybones。AstogettingovertotheMoabitishsideoftheriver，thatwasplainlyimpossible；and，indeed，itseemedtobetheprevailingopinionthatthepassageoftheriverwasnotpracticablewithoutgoingupasfarasSamaria。Andyetweknowthatthere，orthereabouts，theIsraelitesdidcrossit。

IjumpedfrommyhorsethemomentIgottotheplace，andoncemoregavemypurseandpistolstomyfriend。"Youaregoingtobatheagain？"hesaid。"Certainly，"saidI；"youdon’tsupposethatI

wouldcometoJordanandnotwashthere，evenifIwerenotfoulwiththefoulnessoftheDeadSea！""You’llkillyourself，inyourpresentstateofheat；"hesaid，remonstratingjustasone’smotherorwifemightdo。ButevenhaditbeenmymotherorwifeIcouldnothaveattendedtosuchremonstrancethen；andbeforehehaddonelookingatmewiththosebigeyesofhis，mycoatandwaistcoatandcravatwereontheground，andIwasatworkatmybraces；whereuponheturnedfrommeslowly，andstrolledawayintothewood。OnthisoccasionIhadnobasefearsaboutmymoney。

AndthenIdidbathe，——veryuncomfortably。Theshorewasmuddywiththefeetofthepilgrims，andtheriversorapidthatIhardlydaredtogetbeyondthemud。Ididmanagetotakeaplungein，head-

foremost，butIwasforcedtowadeoutthroughthedirtandslush，sothatIfounditdifficulttomakemyfeetandlegscleanenoughformyshoesandstockings；andthen，moreover，thefliesplaguedmemostunmercifully。IshouldhavethoughtthatthefilthyflavourfromtheDeadSeawouldhavesavedmefromthatnuisance；butthemosquitoesthereaboutsareprobablyusedtoit。Findingthisprocessofbathingtobesodifficult，Iinquiredastothepracticeofthepilgrims。Ifoundthatwiththem，bathinginJordanhascometobemuchthesameasbaptismhaswithus。Itdoesnotmeanimmersion。Nodoubttheydotakeofftheirshoesandstockings；buttheydonotstrip，andgobodilyintothewater。

AssoonasIwasdressedIfoundthatSmithwasagainatmysidewithpurseandpistols。Wethenwentupalittleabovethewood，andsatdowntogetheronthelongsandygrass。Itwasnowquiteevening，sothattheshortSyriantwilighthadcommenced，andthesunwasnolongerhotintheheavens。ItwouldbenightaswerodeontothetentsatJericho；buttherewasnodifficultyastotheway，andthereforewedidnothurrythehorses，whowerefeedingonthegrass。Wesatdowntogetheronaspotfromwhichwecouldseethestream，——closetogether，sothatwhenIstretchedmyselfoutinmyweariness，asIdidbeforewestarted，myheadrestedonhislegs。Ah，me！onedoesnottakesuchlibertieswithnewfriendsinEngland。Itwasaplacewhichledoneontosomespecialthoughts。

【推荐阅读】幽幽深宫，醒来一梦似千年，重生于下堂妃身躯中的她，将如何手刃仇人? 点击阅读