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第3章
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Forthefirstseventy-fivemilesnorthofValparaisoIfollowedthecoast-

road,andthroughoutthisspaceIobservedinnumerablemassesofupraisedshells。AboutQuinterothereareimmenseaccumulations(workedforlime)oftheMesodesmadonaciforme,packedinsandyearth;theyaboundchieflyaboutfifteenfeetabovehigh-water,butshellsareherefound,accordingtoMr。

Miers,toaheightof500feet,andatadistanceofthreeleaguesfromthecoast(“TravelsinChile“volume1pages395,458。Ireceivedseveralsimilaraccountsfromtheinhabitants,andwasassuredthattherearemanyshellsontheplainofCasaBlanca,betweenValparaisoandSantiago,attheheightof800feet。):Iherenoticedbarnaclesadheringtotherocksthreeorfourfeetabovethehighesttides。IntheneighbourhoodofPlazillaandCatapilco,atheightsofbetweentwohundredandthreehundredfeet,thenumberofcomminutedshells,withsomeperfectones,especiallyoftheMesodesma,packedinlayers,wastrulyimmense:thelandatPlazillahadevidentlyexistedasabay,withabruptrockymassesrisingoutofit,preciselyliketheisletsinthebrokenbaysnowindentingthiscoast。OnbothsidesoftheriversLigua,Longotomo,Guachen,andQuilimari,thereareplainsofgravelabouttwohundredfeetinheight,inmanypartsabsolutelycoveredwithshells。ClosetoConchalee,agravel-plainisfrontedbyalowerandsimilarplainaboutsixtyfeetinheight,andthisagainisseparatedfromthebeachbyawidetractoflowland:thesurfacesofallthreeplainsorterraceswerestrewedwithvastnumbersoftheConcholepas,Mesodesma,anexistingVenus,andotherstillexistinglittoralshells。ThetwoupperterracescloselyresembleinminiaturetheplainsofPatagonia;andlikethemarefurrowedbydry,flat-bottomed,windingvalleys。NorthwardofthisplaceIturnedinward;andthereforefoundnomoreshells:butthevalleysofChuapa,Illapel,andLimari,areboundedbygravel-cappedplains,oftenincludingalowerterracewithin。

Theseplainssendbay-likearmsbetweenandintothesurroundinghills;andtheyarecontinuouslyunitedwithotherextensivegravel-cappedplains,separatingthecoastmountain-rangesfromtheCordillera。

COQUIMBO。

Anarrowfringe-likeplain,gentlyinclinedtowardsthesea,hereextendsforelevenmilesalongthecoast,witharmsstretchingupbetweenthecoast-mountains,andlikewiseupthevalleyofCoquimbo:atitssouthernextremityitisdirectlyconnectedwiththeplainofLimari,outofwhichhillsabruptlyriselikeislets,andotherhillsprojectlikeheadlandsonacoast。Thesurfaceofthefringe-likeplainappearslevel,butdiffersinsensiblyinheight,andgreatlyincomposition,indifferentparts。

AtthemouthofthevalleyofCoquimbo,thesurfaceconsistswhollyofgravel,andstandsfrom300to350feetabovethelevelofthesea,beingaboutonehundredfeethigherthaninotherparts。Intheseotherandlowerpartsthesuperficialbedsconsistofcalcareousmatter,andrestonancienttertiarydepositshereaftertobedescribed。Theuppermostcalcareouslayeriscream-coloured,compact,smooth-fractured,sub-

stalactiform,andcontainssomesand,earthymatter,andrecentshells。Itlieson,andsendswedge-likeveinsinto,amuchmorefriable,calcareous,tuff-likevariety;andbothrestonamassabouttwentyfeetinthickness,formedoffragmentsofrecentshells,withafewwholeones,andwithsmallpebblesfirmlycementedtogether。(Inmanyrespectsthisupperhard,andtheunderlyingmorefriable,varieties,resemblethegreatsuperficialbedsatKingGeorge’sSoundinAustralia,whichIhavedescribedinmy“GeologicalObservationsonVolcanicIslands。”Therecouldbelittledoubtthattheupperlayerstherehavebeenhardenedbytheactionofrainonthefriable,calcareousmatter,andthatthewholemasshasoriginatedinthedecayofminutelycomminutedsea-shellsandcorals。)Thislatterrockiscalledbytheinhabitantslosa,andisusedforbuilding:inmanypartsitisdividedintostrata,whichdipatanangleoftendegreesseaward,andappearasiftheyhadoriginallybeenheapedinsuccessivelayers(asmaybeseenoncoral-reefs)onasteepbeach。Thisstoneisremarkablefrombeinginpartsentirelyformedofempty,pellucidcapsulesorcellsofcalcareousmatter,ofthesizeofsmallseeds:aseriesofspecimensunequivocallyshowedthatallthesecapsulesoncecontainedminuteroundedfragmentsofshellswhichhavesincebeengraduallydissolvedbywaterpercolatingthroughthemass。(IhaveincidentallydescribedthisrockintheaboveworkonVolcanicIslands。)

Theshellsembeddedinthecalcareousbedsformingthesurfaceofthisfringe-likeplain,attheheightoffrom200to250feetabovethesea,consistof:——

1。Venusopaca。

2。MuliniaByronensis。

3。Pectenpurpuratus。

4。Mesodesmadonaciforme。

5。Turritellacingulata。

6。Monoceroscostatum。

7。ConcholepasPeruviana。

8。Trochus(commonValparaisospecies)。

9。CalyptraeaByronensis。

Althoughthesespeciesareallrecent,andareallfoundintheneighbouringsea,yetIwasparticularlystruckwiththedifferenceintheproportionalnumbersoftheseveralspecies,andofthosenowcastuponthepresentbeach。IfoundonlyonespecimenoftheConcholepas,andthePectenwasveryrare,thoughboththeseshellsarenowthecommonestkinds,withtheexception,perhaps,oftheCalyptraearadians,ofwhichIdidnotfindoneinthecalcareousbeds。Iwillnotpretendtodeterminehowfarthisdifferenceintheproportionalnumbersdependsontheageofthedeposit,andhowfaronthedifferenceinnaturebetweenthepresentsandybeachesandthecalcareousbottom,onwhichtheembeddedshellsmusthavelived。

(DIAGRAM8——SECTIONOFPLAINOFCOQUIMBO。

SectionthroughPlainB-BandRavineA。

Surfaceofplain252feetabovesea。

A。Stratifiedsand,withrecentshellsinsameproportionsasonthebeach,halffillinguparavine。

B。Surfaceofplain,withscatteredshellsinnearlysameproportionsasonthebeach。

C。Uppercalcareousbed,andD。Lowercalcareoussandybed(Losa),bothwithrecentshells,butnotinsameproportionsasonthebeach。

E。Upperferrugino-sandyoldtertiarystratum,andF。Loweroldtertiarystratum,bothwithall,ornearlyall,extinctshells。)

Onthebaresurfaceofthecalcareousplain,orinathincoveringofsand,therewerelying,ataheightfrom200to252feet,manyrecentshells,whichhadamuchfresherappearancethantheembeddedones:fragmentsoftheConcholepas,andofthecommonMytilus,stillretainingatingeofitscolour,werenumerous,andaltogethertherewasmanifestlyacloserapproachinproportionalnumberstothosenowlyingonthebeach。Inamassofstratified,slightlyagglutinatedsand,whichinsomeplacescoversupthelowerhalfoftheseawardescarpmentoftheplain,theincludedshellsappearedtobeinexactlythesameproportionalnumberswiththoseonthebeach。Ononesideofasteep-sidedravine,cuttingthroughtheplainbehindHerraduraBay,Iobservedanarrowstripofstratifiedsand,containingsimilarshellsinsimilarproportionalnumbers;asectionoftheravineisrepresentedinDiagram8,whichservesalsotoshowthegeneralcompositionoftheplain。Imentionthiscaseoftheravinechieflybecausewithouttheevidenceofthemarineshellsinthesand,anyonewouldhavesupposedthatithadbeenhollowedoutbysimplealluvialaction。

Theescarpmentofthefringe-likeplain,whichstretchesforelevenmilesalongthecoast,isinsomepartsfrontedbytwoorthreenarrow,step-

formedterraces,oneofwhichatHerraduraBayexpandsintoasmallplain。

Itssurfacewasthereformedofgravel,cementedtogetherbycalcareousmatter;andoutofitIextractedthefollowingrecentshells,whichareinamoreperfectconditionthanthosefromtheupperplain:——

1。Calyptraearadians。

2。Turritellacingulata。

3。OlivaPeruviana。

4。Murexlabiosus,var。

5。Nassa(identicalwithalivingspecies)。

6。SolenDombeiana。

7。Pectenpurpuratus。

8。VenusChilensis。

9。Amphidesmarugulosum。ThesmallirregularwrinklesoftheposteriorpartofthisshellareratherstrongerthanintherecentspecimensofthisspeciesfromCoquimbo。(G。B。Sowerby。)

10。Balanus(identicalwithlivingspecies)。

Onthesyeniticridge,whichformsthesouthernboundaryofHerraduraBayandPlain,IfoundtheConcholepasandTurritellacingulata(mostlyinfragments),attheheightof242feetabovethesea。Icouldnothavetoldthattheseshellshadnotformerlybeenbroughtupbyman,ifIhadnotfoundoneverysmallmassofthemcementedtogetherinafriablecalcareoustuff。Imentionthisfactmoreparticularly,becauseIcarefullylooked,inmanyapparentlyfavourablespots,atlesserheightsonthesideofthisridge,andcouldnotfindeventhesmallestfragmentofashell。Thisisonlyoneinstanceoutofmany,provingthattheabsenceofsea-shellsonthesurface,thoughinmanyrespectsinexplicable,isanargumentofverylittleweightinoppositiontootherevidenceontherecentelevationoftheland。ThehighestpointinthisneighbourhoodatwhichIfoundupraisedshellsofexistingspecieswasonaninlandcalcareousplain,attheheightof252feetabovethesea。

ItwouldappearfromMr。Caldcleugh’sresearches,thatarisehastakenplaceherewithinthelastcenturyandahalf(“ProceedingsoftheGeologicalSociety“volume2page446。);andasnosuddenchangeoflevelhasbeenobservedduringthenotverysevereearthquakes,whichhaveoccasionallyoccurredhere,therisinghasprobablybeenslow,likethatnow,orquitelately,inprogressatChiloeandatValparaiso:therearethreewell-knownrocks,calledthePelicans,whichin1710,accordingtoFeuillee,wereafleurd’eau,butnowaresaidtostandtwelvefeetabovelow-watermark:thespring-tidesrisehereonlyfivefeet。Thereisanotherrock,nowninefeetabovehigh-watermark,whichinthetimeofFrezierandFeuilleeroseonlyfiveorsixfeetoutofwater。Mr。Caldcleugh,Imayadd,alsoshows(andIreceivedsimilaraccounts)thattherehasbeenaconsiderabledecreaseinthesoundingsduringthelasttwelveyearsintheBaysofCoquimbo,Concepcion,Valparaiso,andGuasco;butasinthesecasesitisnearlyimpossibletodistinguishbetweentheaccumulationofsedimentandtheupheavementofthebottom,Ihavenotenteredintoanydetails。

VALLEYOFCOQUIMBO。

(FIGURE9。EASTANDWESTSECTIONTHROUGHTHETERRACESATCOQUIMBO,WHERE

THEYDEBOUCHFROMTHEVALLEY,ANDFRONTTHESEA。

Verticalscale1/10ofinchto100feet:horizontalscalemuchcontracted。

Heightofterraceinfeetfromeast(high)towest(low):

TerraceF。364

TerraceE。302

TerraceD。showndotted,heightnotgiven。

TerraceC。120

TerraceB。70

TerraceA。25slopingdowntolevelofseaatTownofCoquimbo。)

Thenarrowcoast-plainsends,asbeforestated,anarm,ormorecorrectlyafringe,onbothsides,butchieflyonthesouthernside,severalmilesupthevalley。Thesefringesarewornintostepsorterraces,whichpresentamostremarkableappearance,andhavebeencompared(thoughnotverycorrectly)byCaptainBasilHall,totheparallelroadsofGlenRoyinScotland:theiroriginhasbeenablydiscussedbyMr。Lyell。(“PrinciplesofGeology“1steditionvolume3page131。)ThefirstsectionwhichIwillgive(Figure9),isnotdrawnacrossthevalley,butinaneastandwestlineatitsmouth,wherethestep-formedterracesdebouchandpresenttheirverygentlyinclinedsurfacestowardsthePacific。

Thebottomplain(A)isaboutamileinwidth,andrisesquiteinsensiblyfromthebeachtoaheightoftwenty-fivefeetatthefootofthenextplain;itissandy,andabundantlystrewedwithshells。

PlainorterraceBisofsmallextent,andisalmostconcealedbythehousesofthetown,asislikewisetheescarpmentofterraceC。Onbothsidesofaravine,twomilessouthofthetown,therearetwolittleterraces,oneabovetheother,evidentlycorrespondingwithBandC;andonthemmarineremainsofthespeciesalreadyenumeratedwereplentiful。

TerraceEisverynarrow,butquitedistinctandlevel;alittlesouthwardofthetownthereweretracesofaterraceDintermediatebetweenEandC。

TerraceFispartofthefringe-likeplain,whichstretchesfortheelevenmilesalongthecoast;itisherecomposedofshingle,andis100feethigherthanwherecomposedofcalcareousmatter。Thisgreaterheightisobviouslyduetothequantityofshingle,whichatsomeformerperiodhasbeenbroughtdownthegreatvalleyofCoquimbo。

ConsideringthemanyshellsstrewedovertheterracesA,B,andC,andafewmilessouthwardonthecalcareousplain,whichiscontinuouslyunitedwiththeupperstep-likeplainF,therecannot,Iapprehend,beanydoubt,thatthesesixterraceshavebeenformedbytheactionofthesea;andthattheirfiveescarpmentsmarksomanyperiodsofcomparativerestintheelevatorymovement,duringwhichtheseaworeintotheland。TheelevationbetweentheseperiodsmayhavebeensuddenandonANAVERAGEnotmorethanseventy-twofeeteachtime,oritmayhavebeengradualandinsensiblyslow。Fromtheshellsonthethreelowerterraces,andontheupperone,andImayaddonthethreegravel-cappedterracesatConchalee,beingalllittoralandsub-littoralspecies,andfromtheanalogicalfactsgivenatValparaiso,andlastlyfromtheevidenceofaslowrisinglatelyorstillinprogresshere,itappearstomefarmoreprobablethatthemovementhasbeenslow。Theexistenceofthesesuccessiveescarpments,oroldcliff-

lines,isinanotherrespecthighlyinstructive,fortheyshowperiodsofcomparativerestintheelevatorymovement,andofdenudation,whichwouldneverevenhavebeensuspectedfromacloseexaminationofmanymilesofcoastsouthwardofCoquimbo。

(FIGURE10。NORTHANDSOUTHSECTIONACROSSTHEVALLEYOFCOQUIMBO。

>FromnorthF(high)throughE?,D,C,B,A(low),B?,C,D?,E,F(high)。

Verticalscale1/10ofinchto100feet:horizontalscalemuchcontracted。

Terracesmarkedwith?donotoccuronthatsideofthevalley,andareintroducedonlytomakethediagrammoreintelligible。Ariverandbottom-

plainofvalleyC,E,andF,onthesouthsideofvalley,arerespectively,197,377,and420feetabovethelevelofthesea。

AA。Thebottomofthevalley,believedtobe100feetabovethesea:itiscontinuouslyunitedwiththelowestplainAofFigure9。

B。Thisterracehigherupthevalleyexpandsconsiderably;seawarditissoonlost,itsescarpmentbeingunitedwiththatofC:itisnotdevelopedatallonthesouthsideofthevalley。

C。Thisterrace,likethelast,isconsiderablyexpandedhigherupthevalley。ThesetwoterracesapparentlycorrespondwithBandCofFigure9。

Disnotwelldevelopedinthelineofthissection;butseawarditexpandsintoaplain:itisnotpresentonthesouthsideofthevalley;butitismetwith,asstatedundertheformersection,alittlesouthofthetown。

Eiswelldevelopedonthesouthside,butabsentonthenorthsideofthevalley:thoughnotcontinuouslyunitedwithEofFigure9,itapparentlycorrespondswithit。

F。Thisisthesurface-plain,andiscontinuouslyunitedwiththatwhichstretcheslikeafringealongthecoast。Inascendingthevalleyitgraduallybecomesnarrower,andisatlast,atthedistanceofabouttenmilesfromthesea,reducedtoarowofflat-toppedpatchesonthesidesofthemountains。Noneofthelowerterracesextendsofarupthevalley。)

WecomenowtotheterracesontheoppositesidesoftheeastandwestvalleyofCoquimbo:thesectioninFigure10istakeninanorthandsouthlineacrossthevalleyatapointaboutthreemilesfromthesea。ThevalleymeasuredfromtheedgesoftheescarpmentsoftheupperplainFFisaboutamileinwidth;butfromthebasesoftheboundingmountainsitisfromthreetofourmileswide。Theterracesmarkedwithaninterrogativedonotexistonthatsideofthevalley,butareintroducedmerelytorenderthediagrammoreintelligible。

Thesefiveterracesareformedofshingleandsand;threeofthem,asmarkedbyCaptainB。Hall(namely,B,C,andF),aremuchmoreconspicuousthantheothers。Fromthemarineremainscopiouslystrewedatthemouthofthevalleyonthelowerterraces,andsouthwardofthetownontheupperone,theyare,asbeforeremarked,undoubtedlyofmarineorigin;butwithinthevalley,andthisfactwelldeservesnotice,atadistanceoffromonlyamileandahalftothreeorfourmilesfromthesea,Icouldnotfindevenafragmentofashell。

ONTHEINCLINATIONOFTHETERRACESOFCOQUIMBO,ANDONTHEUPPERANDBASAL

EDGESOFTHEIRESCARPMENTSNOTBEINGHORIZONTAL。

Thesurfacesoftheseterracesslopeinaslightdegree,asshownbythesectionsinFigures9and10takenconjointly,bothtowardsthecentreofthevalley,andseawardstowardsitsmouth。Thisdoubleordiagonalinclination,whichisnotthesameintheseveralterraces,is,asweshallimmediatelysee,ofsimpleexplanation。Thereare,however,someotherpointswhichatfirstappearbynomeansobvious,——namely,first,thateachterrace,takeninitswholebreadthfromthesummit-edgeofoneescarpmenttothebaseofthataboveit,andfollowedupthevalley,isnothorizontal;norhavetheseveralterraces,whenfollowedupthevalley,allthesameinclination;thusIfoundtheterracesC,E,andF,measuredatapointabouttwomilesfromthemouthofthevalley,stoodseverallybetweenfifty-sixtoseventy-sevenfeethigherthanatthemouth。Again,ifwelooktoanyonelineofclifforescarpment,neitheritssummit-edgenoritsbaseishorizontal。Onthetheoryoftheterraceshavingbeenformedduringaslowandequableriseoftheland,withasmanyintervalsofrestasthereareescarpments,itappearsatfirstverysurprisingthathorizontallinesofsomekindshouldnothavebeenleftontheland。

Thedirectionofthediagonalinclinationinthedifferentterracesbeingdifferent,——insomebeingdirectedmoretowardsthemiddleofthevalley,inothersmoretowardsitsmouth,——naturallyfollowsontheviewofeachterrace,beinganaccumulationofsuccessivebeach-linesroundbays,whichmusthavebeenofdifferentformsandsizeswhenthelandstoodatdifferentlevels:forifwelooktotheactualbeachofanarrowcreek,itsslopeisdirectedtowardsthemiddle;whereas,inanopenbay,orslightconcavityonacoast,theslopeistowardsthemouth,thatis,almostdirectlyseaward;henceasabayaltersinformandsize,sowillthedirectionoftheinclinationofitssuccessivebeachesbecomechanged。

(FIGURE11。DIAGRAMOFABAYINADISTRICTWHICHHASBEGUNSLOWLYRISING)

Ifitwerepossibletotraceanyoneofthemanybeach-lines,composingeachslopingterrace,itwouldofcoursebehorizontal;buttheonlylinesofdemarcationarethesummitandbasaledgesoftheescarpments。Nowthesummit-edgeofoneoftheseescarpmentsmarksthefurthestlineorpointtowhichtheseahascutintoamassofgravelslopingseaward;andastheseawillgenerallyhavegreaterpoweratthemouththanattheprotectedheadofthebay,sowilltheescarpmentatthemouthbecutdeeperintotheland,anditssummit-edgebehigher;consequentlyitwillnotbehorizontal。Withrespecttothebasalorloweredgesoftheescarpments,frompicturinginone’smindancientbaysENTIRELYsurroundedatsuccessiveperiodsbycliff-formedshores,one’sfirstimpressionisthattheyatleastnecessarilymustbehorizontal,iftheelevationhasbeenhorizontal。

Buthereisafallacy:foraftertheseahas,duringacessationoftheelevation,worncliffsallroundtheshoresofabay,whenthemovementrecommences,andespeciallyifitrecommencesslowly,itmightwellhappenthat,attheexposedmouthofthebay,thewavesmightcontinueforsometimewearingintotheland,whilstintheprotectedandupperpartssuccessivebeach-linesmightbeaccumulatinginaslopingsurfaceorterraceatthefootofthecliffswhichhadbeenlatelyreached:hence,supposingthewholelineofescarpmenttobefinallyupliftedabovethereachofthesea,itsbasallineorfootnearthemouthwillrunatalowerlevelthanintheupperandprotectedpartsofthebay;consequentlythisbasallinewillnotbehorizontal。Andithasalreadybeenshownthatthesummit-edgesofeachescarpmentwillgenerallybehighernearthemouth(fromtheseawardslopinglandbeingtheremostexposedandcutinto)thanneartheheadofthebay;thereforethetotalheightoftheescarpmentswillbegreatestnearthemouth;andfurtheruptheoldbayorvalleytheywillonbothsidesgenerallythinoutanddieaway:IhaveobservedthisthinningoutofthesuccessiveescarpmentatotherplacesbesidesCoquimbo;

andforalongtimeIwasquiteunabletounderstanditsmeaning。TherudediagraminFigure11willperhapsrenderwhatImeanmoreintelligible;itrepresentsabayinadistrictwhichhasbegunslowlyrising。Beforethemovementcommenced,itissupposedthatthewaveshadbeenenabledtoeatintothelandandformcliffs,asfarup,butwithgraduallydiminishingpower,asthepointsAA:afterthemovementhadcommencedandgoneonforalittletime,theseaissupposedstilltohaveretainedthepower,attheexposedmouthofthebay,ofcuttingdownandintothelandasitslowlyemerged;butintheupperpartsofthebayitissupposedsoontohavelostthispower,owingtothemoreprotectedsituationandtothequantityofdetritusbroughtdownbytheriver;consequentlylowlandwasthereaccumulated。Asthislowlandwasformedduringaslowelevatorymovement,itssurfacewillgentlyslopeupwardsfromthebeachonallsides。Now,letusimaginethebay,nottomakethediagrammorecomplicated,suddenlyconvertedintoavalley:thebasallineofthecliffswillofcoursebehorizontal,asfarasthebeachisnowseenextendinginthediagram;butintheupperpartofthevalley,thislinewillbehigher,thelevelofthedistricthavingbeenraisedwhilstthelowlandwasaccumulatingatthefootoftheinlandcliffs。If,insteadofthebayinthediagrambeingsuddenlyconvertedintoavalley,wesupposewithmuchmoreprobabilityittobeupraisedslowly,thenthewavesintheupperpartsofthebaywillcontinueverygraduallytofailtoreachthecliffs,whicharenowinthediagramrepresentedaswashedbythesea,andwhich,consequently,willbeleftstandinghigherandhigheraboveitslevel;whilstatthestillexposedmouth,itmightwellhappenthatthewavesmightbeenabledtocutdeeperanddeeper,bothdownandintothecliffs,asthelandslowlyrose。

Thegreaterorlesserdestroyingpowerofthewavesatthemouthsofsuccessivebays,comparativelywiththissamepowerintheirupperandprotectedparts,willvaryasthebaysbecomechangedinformandsize,andthereforeatdifferentlevels,attheirmouthsandheads,moreorlessofthesurfacesbetweentheescarpments(thatis,theaccumulatedbeach-linesorterraces)willbeleftundestroyed:fromwhathasgonebeforewecanseethat,accordingastheelevatorymovementsaftereachcessationrecommencemoreorlessslowly,accordingtotheamountofdetritusdeliveredbytheriverattheheadsofthesuccessivebays,andaccordingtothedegreeofprotectionaffordedbytheiralteredforms,sowillagreaterorlessextentofterracebeaccumulatedintheupperpart,towhichtherewillbenosurfaceatacorrespondinglevelatthemouth:hencewecanperceivewhynooneterrace,takeninitswholebreadthandfollowedupthevalley,ishorizontal,thougheachseparatebeach-linemusthavebeenso;andwhytheinclinationoftheseveralterraces,bothtransversely,andlongitudinallyupthevalley,isnotalike。

Ihaveenteredintothiscaseinsomedetail,forIwaslongperplexed(andothershavefeltthesamedifficulty)inunderstandinghow,ontheideaofanequableelevationwiththeseaatintervalseatingintotheland,itcamethatneithertheterracesnortheuppernorloweredgesoftheescarpmentswerehorizontal。Alonglinesofcoast,evenofgreatlengths,suchasthatofPatagonia,iftheyarenearlyuniformlyexposed,thecorrodingpowerofthewaveswillbecheckedandconqueredbytheelevatorymovement,asoftenasitrecommences,ataboutthesameperiod;andhencetheterraces,oraccumulatedbeach-lines,willcommencebeingformedatnearlythesamelevels:ateachsucceedingperiodofrest,theywill,also,beeatenintoatnearlythesamerate,andconsequentlytherewillbeamuchclosercoincidenceintheirlevelsandinclinations,thanintheterracesandescarpmentsformedroundbayswiththeirdifferentpartsverydifferentlyexposedtotheactionofthesea。Itisonlywherethewavesareenabled,afteralonglapseoftime,slowlytocorrodehardrocks,ortothrowup,owingtothesupplyofsedimentbeingsmallandtothesurfacebeingsteeplyinclined,anarrowbeachormound,thatwecanexpect,asatGlenRoyinScotland(“PhilosophicalTransactions“1839page39。),adistinctlinemarkinganoldsea-level,andwhichwillbestrictlyhorizontal,ifthesubsequentelevatorymovementshavebeenso:forinthesecasesnodiscernibleeffectswillbeproduced,exceptduringthelonginterveningperiodsofrest;whereasinthecaseofstep-formedcoasts,suchasthosedescribedinthisandtheprecedingchapter,theterracesthemselvesareaccumulatedduringtheslowelevatoryprocess,theaccumulationcommencingsoonerinprotectedthaninexposedsituations,andsoonerwherethereiscopioussupplyofdetritusthanwherethereislittle;ontheotherhand,thestepsorescarpmentsareformedduringthestationaryperiods,andaremoredeeplycutdownandintothecoast-landinexposedthaninprotectedsituations;——thecuttingaction,moreover,beingprolongedinthemostexposedparts,bothduringthebeginningandending,ifslow,oftheupwardmovement。

AlthoughintheforegoingdiscussionIhaveassumedtheelevationtohavebeenhorizontal,itmaybesuspected,fromtheconsiderableseawardslopeoftheterraces,bothupthevalleyofS。CruzandupthatofCoquimbo,thattherisinghasbeengreaterinlandthannearerthecoast。Thereisreasontobelieve(Mr。Placeinthe“QuarterlyJournalofScience“1824

volume17page42。),fromtheeffectsproducedonthewater-courseofamillduringtheearthquakeof1822inChile,thattheupheavalonemileinlandwasnearlydouble,namely,betweenfiveandsevenfeet,towhatitwasonthePacific。Weknow,also,fromtheadmirableresearchesofM。

Bravais,thatinScandinaviatheancientsea-beachesgentlyslopefromtheinteriormountain-rangestowardsthecoast,andthattheyarenotparallelonetotheother(“VoyagesdelaComm。duNord“etc。also“ComptesRendus“

October1842。),showingthattheproportionaldifferenceintheamountofelevationonthecoastandintheinterior,variedatdifferentperiods。

COQUIMBOTOGUASCO。

Inthisdistanceofninetymiles,Ifoundinalmosteverypartmarineshellsuptoaheightofapparentlyfromtwohundredtothreehundredfeet。

ThedesertplainnearChorosisthuscovered;itisboundedbytheescarpmentofahigherplain,consistingofpale-coloured,earthy,calcareousstone,likethatofCoquimbo,withthesamerecentshellsembeddedinit。InthevalleyofChaneral,asimilarbedoccursinwhich,differentlyfromthatofCoquimbo,IobservedmanyshellsoftheConcholepas:nearGuascothesamecalcareousbedislikewisemetwith。

InthevalleyofGuasco,thestep-formedterracesofgravelaredisplacedinamorestrikingmannerthanatanyotherpoint。Ifollowedthevalleyforthirty-sevenmiles(asreckonedbytheinhabitants)fromthecoasttoBallenar;innearlythewholeofthisdistance,fivegrandterraces,runningatcorrespondingheightsonbothsidesofthebroadvalley,aremoreconspicuousthanthethreebest-developedonesatCoquimbo。Theygivetothelandscapethemostsingularandformalaspect;andwhenthecloudshunglow,hidingtheneighbouringmountains,thevalleyresembledinthemoststrikingmannerthatofSantaCruz。Thewholethicknessoftheseterracesorplainsseemscomposedofgravel,ratherfirmlyaggregatedtogether,withoccasionalpartingseamsofclay:thepebblesontheupperplainareoftenwhitewashedwithanaluminoussubstance,asinPatagonia。

NearthecoastIobservedmanysea-shellsonthelowerplains。AtFreyrina(twelvemilesupthevalley),therearesixterracesbesidethebottom-

surfaceofthevalley:thetwoloweronesarehereonlyfromtwohundredtothreehundredyardsinwidth,buthigherupthevalleytheyexpandintoplains;thethirdterraceisgenerallynarrow;thefourthIsawonlyinoneplace,butthereitwasdistinctforthelengthofamile;thefifthisverybroad;thesixthisthesummit-plain,whichexpandsinlandintoagreatbasin。Nothavingabarometerwithme,Ididnotascertaintheheightoftheseplains,buttheyappearedconsiderablyhigherthanthoseatCoquimbo。Theirwidthvariesmuch,sometimesbeingverybroad,andsometimescontractingintomerefringesofseparateflat-toppedprojections,andthenquitedisappearing:attheonespot,wherethefourthterracewasvisible,thewholesixterraceswerecutoffforashortspacebyonesingleboldescarpment。NearBallenar(thirty-sevenmilesfromthemouthoftheriver),thevalleybetweenthesummit-edgesofthehighestescarpmentsisseveralmilesinwidth,andthefiveterracesonbothsidesarebroadlydeveloped:thehighestcannotbelessthansixhundredfeetabovethebedoftheriver,whichitselfmust,Iconceive,besomehundredfeetabovethesea。

AnorthandsouthsectionacrossthevalleyinthispartisrepresentedinFigure12。

(FIGURE12。NORTHANDSOUTHSECTIONACROSSTHEVALLEYOFGUASCO,ANDOFA

PLAINNORTHOFIT。

>Fromleft(north,high)toright(south,high)throughplainsBandAandtheRiverofGuascoattheTownofBallenar。)

Onthenorthernsideofthevalleythesummit-plainofgravel,A,hastwoescarpments,onefacingthevalley,andtheotheragreatbasin-likeplain,B,whichstretchesforseveralleaguesnorthward。Thisnarrowplain,A,withthedoubleescarpment,evidentlyonceformedaspitorpromontoryofgravel,projectingintoanddividingtwogreatbays,andsubsequentlywaswornonbothsidesintosteepcliffs。WhethertheseveralescarpmentsinthisvalleywereformedduringthesamestationaryperiodswiththoseofCoquimbo,Iwillnotpretendtoconjecture;butifsotheinterveningandsubsequentelevatorymovementsmusthavebeenheremuchmoreenergetic,fortheseplainscertainlystandatamuchhigherlevelthandothoseofCoquimbo。

COPIAPO。

>FromGuascotoCopiapo,IfollowedtheroadnearthefootoftheCordillera,andthereforesawnoupraisedremains。Atthemouth,however,ofthevalleyofCopiapothereisaplain,estimatedbyMeyen(“ReiseumdieErde“th。1s。372etseq。)betweenfiftyandseventyfeetinheight,ofwhichtheupperpartconsistschieflyofgravel,aboundingwithrecentshells,chieflyoftheConcholepas,VenusDombeyi,andCalyptraeatrochiformis。Alittleinland,onaplainestimatedbymyselfatnearlythreehundredfeet,theupperstratumwasformedofbrokenshellsandsandcementedbywhitecalcareousmatter,andaboundingwithembeddedrecentshells,ofwhichtheMuliniaByronensisandPectenpurpuratuswerethemostnumerous。Thelowerplainstretchesforsomemilessouthward,andforanunknowndistancenorthward,butnotfarupthevalley;itsseawardface,accordingtoMeyen,iswornintocavesabovethelevelofthepresentbeach。ThevalleyofCopiapoismuchlesssteeplyinclinedandlessdirectinitscoursethananyothervalleywhichIsawinChile;anditsbottomdoesnotgenerallyconsistofgravel:therearenostep-formedterracesinit,exceptatonespotnearthemouthofthegreatlateralvalleyoftheDespobladowherethereareonlytwo,oneabovetheother:lowerdownthevalley,inoneplaceIobservedthatthesolidrockhadbeencutintotheshapeofabeach,andwassmoothedoverwithshingle。

NorthwardofCopiapo,inlatitude26degreesS。theoldvoyagerWaferfoundimmensenumbersofsea-shellssomemilesfromthecoast。(Burnett’s“CollectionofVoyages“volume4page193。)AtCobija(latitude22degrees34’)M。d’Orbignyobservedbedsofgravelandbrokenshells,containingtenspeciesofrecentshells;healsofound,onprojectingpointsofporphyry,ataheightof300feet,shellsofConcholepas,Chiton,Calyptraea,Fissurella,andPatella,stillattachedtothespotsonwhichtheyhadlived。M。d’Orbignyarguesfromthisfact,thattheelevationmusthavebeengreatandsudden(“Voyage,PartGeolog。”page94。M。d’Orbigny(page98),insummingup,says:“S’ilestcertain(ashebelieves)quetouslesterrainsenpente,comprisentrelameretlesmontagnessontl’ancienrivagedelamer,ondoitsupposer,pourl’ensemble,unexhaussementqueceneseraitpasmoindrededeuxcentmetres;ilfaudraitsupposerencorequecesoulevementn’apointetegraduel;……maisqu’ilresulteraitd’uneseuleetmemecausefortuite,“etc。Now,onthisview,whentheseawasformingthebeachatthefootofthemountains,manyshellsofConcholepas,Chiton,Calyptraea,Fissurella,andPatella(whichareknowntoliveclosetothebeach),wereattachedtorocksatadepthof300feet,andatadepthof600feetseveralofthesesameshellswereaccumulatingingreatnumbersinhorizontalbeds。FromwhatIhavemyselfseenindredging,Ibelievethistobeimprobableinthehighestdegree,ifnotimpossible;andIthinkeveryonewhohasreadProfessorE。Forbes’sexcellentresearchesonthesubject,willwithouthesitationagreeinthisconclusion。):tomeitappearsfarmoreprobablethatthemovementwasgradual,withsmallstartsasduringtheearthquakesof1822and1835,bywhichwholebedsofshellsattachedtotherockswereliftedabovethesubsequentreachofthewaves。

M。d’Orbignyalsofoundrolledpebblesextendingupthemountaintoaheightofatleastsixhundredfeet。AtIquique(latitude20degrees12’

S。),inagreataccumulationofsand,ataheightestimatedbetweenonehundredandfiftyandtwohundredfeet,Iobservedmanylargesea-shellswhichIthoughtcouldnothavebeenblownupbythewindtothatheight。

Mr。J。H。Blakehaslatelydescribedtheseshells:hestatesthat“inlandtowardthemountainstheyformacompactuniformbed,scarcelyatraceoftheoriginalshellsbeingdiscernible;butasweapproachtheshore,theformsbecomegraduallymoredistincttillwemeetwiththelivingshellsonthecoast。”(“Silliman’sAmericanJournalofScience“volume44page2。)

Thisinterestingobservation,showingbythegradualdecayoftheshellshowslowlyandgraduallythecoastmusthavebeenuplifted,weshallpresentlyseefullyconfirmedatLima。AtArica(latitude18degrees28’),M。d’Orbignyfoundagreatrangeofsand-dunes,fourteenleaguesinlength,stretchingtowardsTacna,includingrecentshellsandbonesofCetacea,andreachinguptoaheightof300feetabovethesea。(“Voyage“etc。page101。)LieutenantFreyerhasgivensomemoreprecisefacts:hestates(InalettertoMr。Lyell“GeologicalProceedings“volume2page179。)thattheMorroofAricaisaboutfourhundredfeethigh;itiswornintoobscureterraces,onthebarerockofwhichhefoundBaliniandMilleporaeadhering。Attheheightofbetweentwentyandthirtyfeettheshellsandcoralswereinaquitefreshstate,butatfiftyfeettheyweremuchabraded;therewere,however,tracesoforganicremainsatgreaterheights。

OntheroadfromTacnatoArequipa,betweenLoquimboandMoquegua,Mr。M。

Hamiltonfoundnumerousrecentseashellsinsand,ataconsiderabledistancefromthesea。(“EdinburghNewPhilosophicalJournal“volume30

page155。)

LIMA。

NorthwardofArica,Iknownothingofthecoastforaboutaspaceoffivedegreesoflatitude;butnearCallao,theportofLima,thereisabundantandverycuriousevidenceoftheelevationoftheland。TheislandofSanLorenzoisupwardsofonethousandfeethigh;thebassetedgesofthestratacomposingthelowerpartarewornintothreeobscure,narrow,slopingstepsorledges,whichcanbeseenonlywhenstandingonthem:theyprobablyresemblethosedescribedbyLieutenantFreyeratArica。Thesurfaceofthelowerledge,whichextendsfromalowcliffoverhangingtheseatothefootofthenextupperescarpment,iscoveredbyanenormousaccumulationofrecentshells。(M。Chevalier,inthe“Voyageofthe’Bonite’“observedtheseshells;buthisspecimenswerelost——“L’Institut“

1838page151。)Thebedislevel,andinsomepartsmorethantwofeetinthickness;Itraceditoveraspaceofonemileinlength,andheardofitinotherplaces:theuppermostpartiseighty-fivefeetbythebarometerabovehigh-watermark。Theshellsarepackedtogether,butnotstratified:

theyaremingledwithearthandstones,andaregenerallycoveredbyafewinchesofdetritus;theyrestonamassofnearlyangularfragmentsoftheunderlyingsandstone,sometimescementedtogetherbycommonsalt。I

collectedeighteenspeciesofshellsofallagesandsizes。Severaloftheunivalveshadevidentlylonglaindeadatthebottomofthesea,fortheirINSIDESwereincrustedwithBalaniandSerpulae。All,accordingtoMr。G。B。

Sowerby,arerecentspecies:theyconsistof:——

1。MytilusMagellanicus:sameasthatfoundatValparaiso,andtherestatedtobeprobablydistinctfromthetrueM。Magellanicusoftheeastcoast。

2。Venuscostellata,Sowerby“ZoologicalProceedings。”

3。Pectenpurpuratus,Lam。

4。Chama,probablyechinulata,Brod。

5。CalyptraeaByronensis,Gray。

6。Calyptraearadians(Trochus,Lam。)

7。Fissurellaaffinis,Gray。

8。Fissurellabiradiata,Trembly。

9。Purpurachocolatta,Duclos。

10。PurpuraPeruviana,Gray。

11。Purpuralabiata,Gray。

12。Purpurabuxea(Murex,Brod。)。

13。ConcholepasPeruviana。

14。Nassa,relatedtoreticulata。

15。Tritonrudis,Brod。

16。Trochus,notyetdescribed,butwell-knownandverycommon。

17and18。Balanus,twospecies,bothcommononthecoast。

Theseupraisedshellsappeartobenearlyinthesameproportionalnumbers——

withtheexceptionoftheCrepidulaebeingmorenumerous——withthoseontheexistingbeach。Thestateofpreservationofthedifferentspeciesdifferedmuch;butmostofthemweremuchcorroded,brittle,andbleached:

theupperandlowersurfacesoftheConcholepashadgenerallyquitescaledoff:someoftheTrochiandFissurellaestillpartiallyretaintheircolours。Itisremarkablethattheseshells,takenalltogether,havefullyasancientanappearance,althoughtheextremelyaridclimateappearshighlyfavourablefortheirpreservation,asthosefrom1,300feetatValparaiso,andcertainlyamoreancientappearancethanthosefromfivetosixhundredfeetfromValparaisoandConcepcion;atwhichplacesIhaveseengrassandothervegetablesactuallygrowingoutoftheshells。ManyoftheunivalveshereatSanLorenzowerefilledwith,andunitedtogetherby,puresalt,probablyleftbytheevaporationofthesea-spray,asthelandslowlyemerged。(Theunderlyingsandstonecontainstruelayersofsalt;sothatthesaltmaypossiblyhavecomefromthebedsinthehigherpartsoftheisland;butIthinkmoreprobablyfromthesea-spray。ItisgenerallyassertedthatrainneverfallsonthecoastofPeru;butthisisnotquiteaccurate;for,onseveraldays,duringourvisit,theso-calledPeruviandewfellinsufficientquantitytomakethestreetsmuddy,anditwouldcertainlyhavewashedsodeliquescentasubstanceassaltintothesoil。I

statethisbecauseM。d’Orbigny,indiscussingananalogoussubject,supposesthatIhadforgottenthatitneverrainsonthiswholelineofcoast。SeeUlloa’s“Voyage“volume2EnglishTranslationpage67foranaccountofthemuddystreetsofLima,andonthecontinuanceofthemistsduringthewholewinter。Rain,also,fallsatrareintervalseveninthedriestdistricts,as,forinstance,duringfortydays,in1726,atChocope(7degrees46’);thisrainentirelyruined(“Ulloa“etc。page18)themudhousesoftheinhabitants。)Onthehighestpartsoftheledge,smallfragmentsoftheshellsweremingledwith,andevidentlyinprocessofreductioninto,ayellowish-white,soft,calcareouspowder,tastingstronglyofsalt,andinsomeplacesasfineaspreparedmedicinalchalk。

FOSSIL-REMAINSOFHUMANART。

InthemidstoftheseshellsonSanLorenzo,Ifoundlightcorallines,thehornyovule-casesofMollusca,rootsofseaweed(Mr。SmithofJordanHillfoundpiecesofseaweedinanupraisedpleistocenedepositinScotland。SeehisadmirablePaperinthe“EdinburghNewPhilosophicalJournal“volume25

page384。),bonesofbirds,theheadsofIndiancornandothervegetablematter,apieceofwovenrushes,andanotherofnearlydecayedCOTTON

string。Iextractedtheseremainsbydiggingahole,onalevelspot;andtheyhadallindisputablybeenembeddedwiththeshells。Icomparedtheplaitedrush,theCOTTONstring,andIndiancorn,atthehouseofanantiquary,withsimilarobjects,takenfromtheHuacasorburial-groundsoftheancientPeruvians,andtheywereundistinguishable;itshouldbeobservedthatthePeruviansusedstringonlyofcotton。Thesmallquantityofsandorgravelwiththeshells,theabsenceoflargestones,thewidthandthicknessofthebed,andthetimerequisiteforaledgetobecutintothesandstone,allshowthattheseremainswerenotthrownhighupbyanearthquake-wave:ontheotherhand,thesefacts,togetherwiththenumberofdeadshells,andoffloatingobjects,bothmarineandterrestrial,bothnaturalandhuman,renderitalmostcertainthattheywereaccumulatedonatruebeach,sinceupraisedeighty-fivefeet,andupraisedthismuchsinceINDIANMANINHABITEDPERU。Theelevationmayhavebeen,eitherbyseveralsmallsuddenstarts,orquitegradual;inthislattercasetheunrolledshellshavingbeenthrownupduringgalesbeyondthereachofthewaveswhichafterwardsbrokeontheslowlyemergingland。Ihavemadetheseremarks,chieflybecauseIwasatfirstsurprisedatthecompletedifferenceinnature,betweenthisbroad,smooth,upraisedbedofshells,andthepresentshingle-beachatthefootofthelowsandstone-cliffs;butabeachformed,whentheseaiscuttingintotheland,asisshownnowtobethecasebythelowbaresandstone-cliffs,oughtnottobecomparedwithabeachaccumulatedonagentlyinclinedrockysurface,ataperiodwhenthesea(probablyowingtotheelevatorymovementinprocess)wasnotabletoeatintotheland。Withrespecttothemassofnearlyangular,salt-

cementedfragmentsofsandstone,whichlieundertheshells,andwhicharesounlikethematerialsofanordinarysea-beach;Ithinkitprobableafterhavingseentheremarkableeffectsoftheearthquakeof1835(Ihavedescribedthisinmy“JournalofResearches“page3032ndedition。),inabsolutelyshatteringasifbygunpowdertheSURFACEoftheprimaryrocksnearConcepcion,thatasmoothbaresurfaceofstonewasleftbytheseacoveredbytheshellymass,andthatafterwardswhenupraised,itwassuperficiallyshatteredbythesevereshockssooftenexperiencedhere。

TheverylowlandsurroundingthetownofCallao,istothesouthjoinedbyanobscureescarpmenttoahigherplain(southofBellaVista),whichstretchesalongthecoastforalengthofabouteightmiles。Thisplainappearstotheeyequitelevel;butthesea-cliffsshowthatitsheightvaries(asfarasIcouldestimate)fromseventytoonehundredandtwentyfeet。Itiscomposedofthin,sometimeswaving,bedsofclay,oftenofbrightredandyellowcolours,oflayersofimpuresand,andinonepartwithagreatstratifiedmassofgraniticpebbles。Thesebedsarecappedbyaremarkablemass,varyingfromtwotosixfeetinthickness,ofreddishloamormud,containingmanyscatteredandbrokenfragmentsofrecentmarineshells,sometimesthoughrarelysinglelargeroundpebble,morefrequentlyshortirregularlayersoffinegravel,andverymanypiecesofredcoarseearthenware,whichfromtheircurvaturesmustoncehaveformedpartsoflargevessels。TheearthenwareisofIndianmanufacture;andI

foundexactlysimilarpiecesaccidentallyincludedwithinthebricks,ofwhichtheneighbouringancientPeruvianburial-moundsarebuilt。Thesefragmentsaboundedinsuchnumbersincertainspots,thatitappearedasifwaggon-loadsofearthenwarehadbeensmashedtopieces。Thebrokensea-

shellsandpotteryarestrewedbothonthesurface,andthroughoutthewholethicknessofthisupperloamymass。IfoundthemwhereverIexaminedthecliffs,foraspaceofbetweentwoandthreemiles,andforhalfamileinland;andtherecanbelittledoubtthatthissamebedextendswithasmoothsurfaceseveralmilesfurtherovertheentireplain。Besidesthelittleincludedirregularlayersofsmallpebbles,thereareoccasionallyveryobscuretracesofstratification。

Atoneofthehighestpartsofthecliff,estimated120feetabovethesea,wherealittleravinecamedown,thereweretwosections,atrightanglestoeachother,ofthefloorofashedorbuilding。Inbothsectionsorfaces,tworows,oneovertheother,oflargeroundstonescouldbedistinctlyseen;theywerepackedclosetogetheronanartificiallayerofsandtwoinchesthick,whichhadbeenplacedonthenaturalclay-beds;theroundstoneswerecoveredbythreefeetinthicknessoftheloamwithbrokensea-shellsandpottery。Hence,beforethiswidelyspread-outbedofloamwasdeposited,itiscertainthattheplainwasinhabited;anditisprobable,fromthebrokenvesselsbeingsomuchmoreabundantincertainspotsthaninothers,andfromtheunderlyingclaybeingfittedfortheirmanufacture,thatthekilnsstoodhere。

Thesmoothnessandwideextentoftheplain,thebulkofmatterdeposited,andtheobscuretracesofstratificationseemtoindicatethattheloamwasdepositedunderwater;ontheotherhand,thepresenceofsea-shells,theirbrokenstate,thepebblesofvarioussizes,andtheartificialfloorofroundstones,almostprovethatitmusthaveoriginatedinarushofwaterfromtheseaovertheland。Theheightoftheplain,namely,120feet,rendersitimprobablethatanearthquake-wave,vastassomehaveherebeen,couldhavebrokenoverthesurfaceatitspresentlevel;butwhenthelandstoodeighty-fivefeetlower,attheperiodwhentheshellswerethrownupontheledgeatS。Lorenzo,andwhenasweknowmaninhabitedthisdistrict,suchaneventmightwellhaveoccurred;andifwemayfurthersuppose,thattheplainwasatthattimeconvertedintoatemporarylake,asactuallyoccurred,duringtheearthquakesof1713and1746,inthecaseofthelowlandroundCallaoowingtoitsbeingencircledbyahighshingle-beach,alltheappearancesabovedescribedwillbeperfectlyexplained。Imustadd,thatatalowerlevelnearthepointwherethepresentlowlandroundCallaojoinsthehigherplain,thereareappearancesoftwodistinctdepositsbothapparentlyformedbydebacles:intheupperone,ahorse’stoothandadog’sjawwereembedded;sothatbothmusthavebeenformedafterthesettlementoftheSpaniards:accordingtoAcosta,theearthquake-waveof1586roseeighty-fourfeet。

TheinhabitantsofCallaodonotbelieve,asfarasIcouldascertain,thatanychangeinlevelisnowinprogress。Thegreatfragmentsofbrickwork,whichitisassertedcanbeseenatthebottomofthesea,andwhichhavebeenadducedasaproofofalatesubsidence,are,asIaminformedbyMr。

Gill,aresidentengineer,loosefragments;thisisprobable,forIfoundonthebeach,andnotneartheremainsofanybuilding,massesofbrickwork,threeandfourfeetsquare,whichhadbeenwashedintotheirpresentplaces,andsmoothedoverwithshingleduringtheearthquakeof1746。Thespitofland,onwhichtheruinsofOLDCallaostand,issoextremelylowandnarrow,thatitisimprobableinthehighestdegreethatatownshouldhavebeenfoundedonitinitspresentstate;andIhavelatelyheardthatM。Tschudihascometotheconclusion,fromacomparisonofoldwithmoderncharts,thatthecoastbothsouthandnorthofCallaohassubsided。(IamindebtedforthisfacttoDr。E。Dieffenbach。Imayaddthatthereisatradition,thattheislandsofSanLorenzoandFrontonwereoncejoined,andthatthechannelbetweenSanLorenzoandthemainland,nowabovetwomilesinwidth,wassonarrowthatcattleusedtoswimover。)I

haveshownthattheislandofSanLorenzohasbeenupraisedeighty-fivefeetsincethePeruviansinhabitedthiscountry;andwhatevermayhavebeentheamountofrecentsubsidence,bysomuchmoremusttheelevationhaveexceededtheeighty-fivefeet。Inseveralplacesinthisneighbourhood,marksofsea-actionhavebeenobserved:UlloagivesadetailedaccountofsuchappearancesatapointfiveleaguesnorthwardofCallao:Mr。

CruikshankfoundnearLimasuccessivelinesofsea-cliffs,withroundedblocksattheirbases,ataheightof700feetabovethepresentlevelofthesea。(“ObservacionessobreelClimadelLima“parDr。H。Unanuepage4——Ulloa’s“Voyage“volume2EnglishTranslationpage97——ForMr。

Cruikshank’sobservations,seeMr。Lyell’s“PrinciplesofGeology“1steditionvolume3page130。)

ONTHEDECAYOFUPRAISEDSEA-SHELLS。

IhavestatedthatmanyoftheshellsonthelowerinclinedledgeorterraceofSanLorenzoarecorrodedinapeculiarmanner,andthattheyhaveamuchmoreancientappearancethanthesamespeciesatconsiderablygreaterheightsonthecoastofChile。Ihave,also,statedthattheseshellsintheupperpartoftheledge,attheheightofeighty-fivefeetabovethesea,arefalling,andinsomepartsarequitechangedintoafine,soft,saline,calcareouspowder。Thefinestpartofthispowderhasbeenanalysedforme,attherequestofSirH。DelaBeche,bythekindnessofMr。TrenhamReeksoftheMuseumofEconomicGeology;itconsistsofcarbonateoflimeinabundance,ofsulphateandmuriateoflime,andofmuriateandsulphateofsoda。Thecarbonateoflimeisobviouslyderivedfromtheshells;andcommonsaltissoabundantinpartsofthebed,that,asbeforeremarked,theunivalvesareoftenfilledwithit。Thesulphateoflimemayhavebeenderived,ashasprobablythecommonsalt,fromtheevaporationofthesea-spray,duringtheemergenceoftheland;forsulphateoflimeisnowcopiouslydepositedfromthesprayontheshoresofAscension。(See“VolcanicIslands“etc。bytheAuthor。)Theothersalinebodiesmayperhapshavebeenpartiallythusderived,butchiefly,asI

concludefromthefollowingfacts,throughadifferentmeans。

Onmostpartsofthesecondledgeoroldsea-beach,ataheightof170

feet,thereisalayerofwhitepowderofvariablethickness,asmuchinsomepartsastwoinches,lyingontheangular,salt-cementedfragmentsofsandstoneandunderaboutfourinchesofearth,whichpowder,fromitscloseresemblanceinnaturetotheupperandmostdecayedpartsoftheshellymass,Icanhardlydoubtoriginallyexistedasabedofshells,nowmuchcollapsedandquitedisintegrated。Icouldnotdiscoverwiththemicroscopeatraceoforganicstructureinit;butitschemicalconstituents,accordingtoMr。Reeks,arethesameasinthepowderextractedfromamongstthedecayingshellsonthelowerledge,withthemarkedexceptionthatthecarbonateoflimeispresentinonlyverysmallquantity。Onthethirdandhighestledge,Iobservedsomeofthispowderinasimilarposition,andlikewiseoccasionallyinsmallpatchesatconsiderablygreaterheightsnearthesummitoftheisland。AtIquique,wherethewholefaceofthecountryiscoveredbyahighlysaliferousalluvium,andwheretheclimateisextremelydry,wehaveseenthat,accordingtoMr。Blake,theshellswhichareperfectnearthebeachbecome,inascending,graduallylessandlessperfect,untilscarcelyatraceoftheiroriginalstructurecanbediscovered。Itisknownthatcarbonateoflimeandcommonsaltleftinamasstogether,andslightlymoistened,partiallydecomposeeachother(IaminformedbyDr。Kane,throughMr。

Reeks,thatamanufactorywasestablishedonthisprincipleinFrance,butfailedfromthesmallquantityofcarbonateofsodaproduced。Sprengel“Gardeners’Chronicle“1845page157,states,thatsaltandcarbonateoflimeareliabletomutualdecompositioninthesoil。SirH。DelaBecheinformsme,thatcalcareousrockswashedbythesprayofthesea,areoftencorrodedinapeculiarmanner;seealsoonthislattersubject“Gardeners’

Chronicle“page6751844。):nowwehaveatSanLorenzoandatIquique,intheshellsandsaltpackedtogether,andoccasionallymoistenedbytheso-

calledPeruviandew,theproperelementsforthisaction。WecanthusunderstandthepeculiarcorrodedappearanceoftheshellsonSanLorenzo,andthegreatdecreaseofquantityinthecarbonateoflimeinthepowderontheupperledge。Thereis,however,agreatdifficultyonthisview,fortheresultantsaltsshouldbecarbonateofsodaandmuriateoflime;thelatterispresent,butnotthecarbonateofsoda。HenceIamledtotheperhapsunauthorisedconjecture(whichIshallhereafterhavetoreferto)

thatthecarbonateofsoda,bysomeunexplainedmeans,becomesconvertedintoasulphate。

Iftheaboveremarksbejust,weareledtotheveryunexpectedconclusion,thatadryclimate,byleavingthesaltfromthesea-sprayundissolved,ismuchlessfavourabletothepreservationofupraisedshellsthanahumidclimate。Howeverthismaybe,itisinterestingtoknowthemannerinwhichmassesofshells,graduallyupraisedabovethesea-level,decayandfinallydisappear。

SUMMARYONTHERECENTELEVATIONOFTHEWESTCOASTOFSOUTHAMERICA。

Wehaveseenthatupraisedmarineremainsoccuratintervals,andinsomepartsalmostcontinuously,fromlatitude45degrees35’to12degreesS。alongtheshoresofthePacific。Thisisadistance,inanorthandsouthline,of2,075geographicalmiles。FromByron’sobservations,theelevationhasnodoubtextendedsixtymilesfurthersouth;andfromthesimilarityintheformofthecountrynearLima,ithasprobablyextendedmanyleaguesfurthernorth。(ImaytakethisopportunityofstatingthatinaMS。intheGeologicalSocietybyMr。Weaver,itisstatedthatbedsofoystersandotherrecentshellsarefoundthirtyfeetabovethelevelofthesea,inmanypartsofTampico,intheGulfofMexico。)Alongthisgreatlineofcoast,besidestheorganicremains,thereareinverymanyparts,marksoferosion,caves,ancientbeaches,sand-dunes,andsuccessiveterracesofgravel,allabovethepresentlevelofthesea。Fromthesteepnessofthelandonthissideofthecontinent,shellshaverarelybeenfoundatgreaterdistancesinlandthanfromtwotothreeleagues;butthemarksofsea-actionareevidentfartherfromthecoast;forinstance,inthevalleyofGuasco,atadistanceofbetweenthirtyandfortymiles。Judgingfromtheupraisedshellsalone,theelevationinChiloehasbeen350feet,atConcepcioncertainly625feet;andbyestimation1,000feet;atValparaiso1,300feet;atCoquimbo252feet;northwardofthisplace,sea-shellshavenot,Ibelieve,beenfoundabove300feet;andatLimatheywerefallingintodecay(hastenedprobablybythesalt)at85feet。NotonlyhasthisamountofelevationtakenplacewithintheperiodofexistingMolluscaandCirripedes;buttheirproportionalnumbersintheneighbouringseahaveinmostcasesremainedthesame。NearLima,however,asmallchangeinthisrespectbetweenthelivingandtheupraisedwasobserved:atCoquimbothiswasmoreevident,alltheshellsbeingexistingspecies,butwiththoseembeddedintheuppermostcalcareousplainnotapproximatingsocloselyinproportionalnumbers,asdothosethatlielooseonitssurfaceattheheightof252feet,andstilllesscloselythanthosewhicharestrewedonthelowerplains,whichlatterareidenticalinproportionalnumberswiththosenowcastuponthebeach。Fromthiscircumstance,andfromnotfinding,uponcarefulexamination,nearCoquimboanyshellsatagreaterheightthan252feet,IbelievethattherecentelevationtherehasbeenmuchlessthanatValparaiso,whereithasbeen1,300feet,andImayadd,thanatConcepcion。ThisconsiderableinequalityintheamountofelevationatCoquimboandValparaiso,placesonly200milesapart,isnotimprobable,considering,first,thedifferenceintheforceandnumberoftheshocksnowyearlyaffectingdifferentpartsofthiscoast;and,secondly,thefactofsingleareas,suchasthatoftheprovinceofConcepcion,havingbeenupliftedveryunequallyduringthesameearthquake。Itwould,inmostcases,beveryhazardoustoinferaninequalityofelevation,fromshellsbeingfoundonthesurfaceorinsuperficialbedsatdifferentheights;forwedonotknowonwhattheirrateofdecaydepends;andatCoquimbooneinstanceoutofmanyhasbeengiven,ofapromontory,which,fromtheoccurrenceofoneverysmallcollectionoflime-cementedshells,hasindisputablybeenelevated242feet,andyetonwhich,notevenafragmentofshellcouldbefoundoncarefulexaminationbetweenthisheightandthebeach,althoughmanysitesappearedveryfavourableforthepreservationoforganicremains:theabsence,also,ofshellsonthegravel-terracesashortdistanceupthevalleyofCoquimbo,thoughabundantonthecorrespondingterracesatitsmouth,shouldbeborneinmind。

Thereareotherepochs,besidesthatoftheexistenceofrecentMollusca,bywhichtojudgeofthechangesoflevelonthiscoast。AtLima,aswehavejustseen,theelevationhasbeenatleasteighty-fivefeet,withintheIndo-humanperiod;andsincethearrivaloftheSpaniardsin1530,therehasapparentlybeenasinkingofthesurface。AtValparaiso,inthecourseof220years,therisemusthavebeenlessthannineteenfeet;butithasbeenasmuchasfromtentoelevenfeetintheseventeenyearssubsequentlyto1817,andofthisriseonlyapartcanbeattributedtotheearthquakeof1822,theremainderhavingbeeninsensibleandapparentlystill,in1834,inprogress。AtChiloetheelevationhasbeengradual,andaboutfourfeetduringfouryears。AtCoquimbo,also,ithasbeengradual,andinthecourseof150yearshasamountedtoseveralfeet。Thesuddensmallupheavals,accompaniedbyearthquakes,asin1822atValparaiso,in1835atConcepcion,andin1837intheChonosArchipelago,arefamiliartomostgeologists,butthegradualrisingofthecoastofChilehasbeenhardlynoticed;itis,however,veryimportant,asconnectingtogetherthesetwoordersofevents。

TheriseofLima,havingbeeneighty-fivefeetwithintheperiodofman,isthemoresurprisingifwerefertotheeasterncoastofthecontinent,foratPortS。Julian,inPatagonia,thereisgoodevidence(asweshallhereaftersee)thatwhenthelandstoodninetyfeetlower,theMacrauchenia,amammiferousbeast,wasalive;andatBahiaBlanca,whenitstoodonlyafewfeetlowerthanitnowdoes,manygiganticquadrupedsrangedovertheadjoiningcountry。ButthecoastofPatagoniaissomewaydistantfromtheCordillera,andthemovementatBahiaBlancaisperhapsnowaysconnectedwiththisgreatrange,butratherwiththetertiaryvolcanicrocksofBandaOriental,andthereforetheelevationattheseplacesmayhavebeeninfinitelyslowerthanonthecoastofPeru。Allsuchspeculations,however,mustbevague,forasweknowwithcertaintythattheelevationofthewholecoastofPatagoniahasbeeninterruptedbymanyandlongpauses,whowillpretendtosaythat,insuchcases,manyandlongperiodsofsubsidencemaynotalsohavebeenintercalated?

InmanypartsofthecoastofChileandPerutherearemarksoftheactionoftheseaatsuccessiveheightsontheland,showingthattheelevationhasbeeninterruptedbyperiodsofcomparativerestintheupwardmovement,andofdenudationintheactionofthesea。TheseareplainestatChiloe,where,inaheightofaboutfivehundredfeet,therearethreeescarpments,——atCoquimbo,whereinaheightof364feet,therearefive,——

atGuasco,wheretherearesix,ofwhichfivemayperhapscorrespondwiththoseatCoquimbo,butifso,thesubsequentandinterveningelevatorymovementshavebeenheremuchmoreenergetic,——atLima,where,inaheightofabout250feettherearethreeterraces,andothers,asitisasserted,atconsiderablygreaterheights。Thealmostentireabsenceofancientmarksofsea-actionatdefinedlevelsalongconsiderablespacesofcoast,asnearValparaisoandConcepcion,ishighlyinstructive,forasitisimprobablethattheelevationattheseplacesaloneshouldhavebeencontinuous,wemustattributetheabsenceofsuchmarkstothenatureandformofthecoast-rocks。SeeingoverhowmanyhundredmilesofthecoastofPatagonia,andonhowmanyplacesontheshoresofthePacific,theelevatoryprocesshasbeeninterruptedbyperiodsofcomparativerest,wemayconclude,conjointlywiththeevidencedrawnfromotherquartersoftheworld,thattheelevationofthelandisgenerallyanintermittentaction。Fromthequantityofmatterremovedintheformationoftheescarpments,especiallyofthoseofPatagonia,itappearsthattheperiodsofrestinthemovement,andofdenudationoftheland,havegenerallybeenverylong。InPatagonia,wehaveseenthattheelevationhasbeenequable,andtheperiodsofdenudationsynchronousoververywidespacesofcoast;ontheshoresofthePacific,owingtotheterraceschieflyoccurringinthevalleys,wehavenotequalmeansofjudgingonthispoint;andtheverydifferentheightsoftheupraisedshellsatCoquimbo,Valparaiso,andConcepcionseemdirectlyopposedtosuchaconclusion。

Whetheronthissideofthecontinenttheelevation,betweentheperiodsofcomparativerestwhentheescarpmentswereformed,hasbeenbysmallsuddenstarts,suchasthoseaccompanyingrecentearthquakes,or,asismostprobable,bysuchstartsconjointlywithagradualupwardmovement,orbygreatandsuddenupheavals,Ihavenodirectevidence。Butasontheeasterncoast,Iwasledtothink,fromtheanalogyofthelasthundredfeetofelevationinLaPlata,andfromthenearlyequalsizeofthepebblesovertheentirewidthoftheterraces,andfromtheupraisedshellsbeingalllittoralspecies,thattheelevationhadbeengradual;sodoIonthiswesterncoast,fromtheanalogyofthemovementsnowinprogress,andfromthevastnumbersofshellsnowlivingexclusivelyonorclosetothebeach,whicharestrewedoverthewholesurfaceofthelanduptoveryconsiderableheights,conclude,thatthemovementherealsohasbeenslowandgradual,aidedprobablybysmalloccasionalstarts。WeknowatleastthatatCoquimbo,wherefiveescarpmentsoccurinaheightof364feet,thesuccessiveelevations,iftheyhavebeensudden,cannothavebeenverygreat。Ithas,Ithink,beenshownthattheoccasionalpreservationofshells,unrolledandunbroken,isnotimprobableevenduringaquitegradualrisingoftheland;andtheirpreservation,ifthemovementhasbeenaidedbysmallstarts,isquiteconformablewithwhatactuallytakesplaceduringrecentearthquakes。

Judgingfromthepresentactionofthesea,alongtheshoresofthePacific,onthedepositsofitsownaccumulation,thepresenttimeseemsinmostplacestobeoneofcomparativerestintheelevatorymovement,andofdenudationoftheland。UndoubtedlythisisthecasealongthewholegreatlengthofPatagonia。AtChiloe,however,wehaveseenthatanarrowslopingfringe,coveredwithvegetation,separatesthepresentsea-beachfromalineoflowcliffs,whichthewaveslatelyreached;here,then,thelandisgaininginbreadthandheight,andthepresentperiodisnotoneofrestintheelevationandofcontingentdenudation;butiftherisingbenotprolongedataquickrate,thereiseveryprobabilitythattheseawillsoonregainitsformerhorizontallimits。Iobservedsimilarlowslopingfringesonseveralpartsofthecoast,bothnorthwardofValparaisoandnearCoquimbo;butatthislatterplace,fromthechangeinformwhichthecoasthasundergonesincetheoldescarpmentswereworn,itmaybedoubtedwhetherthesea,actingforanylengthoftimeatitspresentlevel,wouldeatintotheland;foritnowrathertendstothrowupgreatmassesofsand。ItisfromfactssuchasthesethatIhavegenerallyusedthetermCOMPARATIVErest,asappliedtotheelevationoftheland;therestorcessationinthemovementbeingcomparativebothwithwhathasprecededitandfollowedit,andwiththesea’spowerofcorrosionateachspotandateachlevel。NearLima,thecliff-formedshoresofSanLorenzo,andonthemainlandsouthofCallao,showthattheseaisgainingontheland;andaswehaveheresomeevidencethatitssurfacehaslatelysubsidedorisstillsinking,theperiodsofcomparativerestintheelevationandofcontingentdenudation,mayprobablyinmanycasesincludeperiodsofsubsidence。Itisonly,aswasshownindetailwhendiscussingtheterracesofCoquimbo,whentheseawithdifficultyandafteralonglapseoftimehaseithercorrodedanarrowledgeintosolidrock,orhasheapeduponasteepsurfaceaNARROWmoundofdetritus,thatwecanconfidentlyassertthatthelandatthatlevelandatthatperiodlongremainedabsolutelystationary。Inthecaseofterracesformedofgravelorsand,althoughtheelevationmayhavebeenstrictlyhorizontal,itmaywellhappenthatnoonelevelbeach-linemaybetraceable,andthatneithertheterracesthemselvesnorthesummitnorbasaledgesoftheirescarpmentsmaybehorizontal。

Finally,comparingtheextentoftheelevatedarea,asdeducedfromtheupraisedrecentorganicremains,onthetwosidesofthecontinent,wehaveseenthatontheAtlantic,shellshavebeenfoundatintervalsfromEasternTierradelFuegofor1,180milesnorthward,andonthePacificforaspaceof2,075miles。Foralengthof775miles,theyoccurinthesamelatitudesonbothsidesofthecontinent。Withouttakingthiscircumstanceintoconsideration,itisprobablefromthereasonsassignedinthelastchapter,thattheentirebreadthofthecontinentinCentralPatagoniahasbeenupliftedinmass;butfromotherreasonstheregiven,itwouldbehazardoustoextendthisconclusiontoLaPlata。Fromthecontinentbeingnarrowinthesouthern-mostpartsofPatagonia,andfromtheshellsfoundattheInnerNarrowsoftheStraitofMagellan,andlikewisefarupthevalleyoftheSantaCruz,itisprobablethatthesouthernpartofthewesterncoast,whichwasnotvisitedbyme,hasbeenelevatedwithintheperiodofrecentMollusca:ifso,theshoresofthePacifichavebeencontinuously,recently,andinageologicalsensesynchronouslyupraised,fromLimaforalengthof2,480nauticalmilessouthward,——adistanceequaltothatfromtheRedSeatotheNorthCapeofScandinavia!

CHAPTERIII。ONTHEPLAINSANDVALLEYSOFCHILE:——SALIFEROUSSUPERFICIAL

DEPOSITS。

Basin-likeplainsofChile;theirdrainage,theirmarineorigin。

Marksofsea-actionontheeasternflanksoftheCordillera。

Slopingterrace-likefringesofstratifiedshinglewithinthevalleysoftheCordillera;theirmarineorigin。

BouldersinthevalleyofCachapual。

HorizontalelevationoftheCordillera。

Formationofvalleys。

Bouldersmovedbyearthquake-waves。

Salinesuperficialdeposits。

BedofnitrateofsodaatIquique。

Salineincrustations。

Salt-lakesofLaPlataandPatagonia;purityofthesalt;itsorigin。

ThespacebetweentheCordilleraandthecoastofChileisonarudeaveragefromeightytoaboveonehundredmilesinwidth;itisformed,eitherofanalmostcontinuousmassofmountains,ormorecommonlyofseveralnearlyparallelranges,separatedbyplains;inthemoresouthernpartsofthisprovincethemountainsarequitesubordinatetotheplains;

inthenorthernpartthemountainspredominate。

Thebasin-likeplainsatthefootoftheCordilleraareinseveralrespectsremarkable;thatonwhichthecapitalofChilestandsisfifteenmilesinwidth,inaneastandwestline,andofmuchgreaterlengthinanorthandsouthline;itstands1,750feetabovethesea;itssurfaceappearssmooth,butreallyfallsandrisesinwidegentleundulations,thehollowscorrespondingwiththemainvalleysoftheCordillera:thestrikingmannerinwhichitabruptlycomesuptothefootofthisgreatrangehasbeenremarkedbyeveryauthorsincethetimeofMolina。(Thisplainispartiallyseparatedintotwobasinsbyarangeofhills;thesouthernhalf,accordingtoMeyen(“ReiseumErde“Th。1s。274),fallsinheight,byanabruptstep,ofbetweenfifteenandtwentyfeet。)NeartheCordilleraitiscomposedofastratifiedmassofpebblesofallsizes,occasionallyincludingroundedboulders:nearitswesternboundary,itconsistsofreddishsandyclay,containingsomepebblesandnumerousfragmentsofpumice,andsometimespassesintopuresandorintovolcanicashes。AtPodaguel,onthiswesternsideoftheplain,bedsofsandarecappedbyacalcareoustuff,theuppermostlayersbeinggenerallyhardandsubstalagmitic,andtheloweroneswhiteandfriable,bothtogetherpreciselyresemblingthebedsatCoquimbo,whichcontainrecentmarineshells。Abrupt,butrounded,hummocksofrockriseoutofthisplain:thoseofSta。LuciaandS。Cristovalareformedofgreenstone-porphyryalmostentirelydenudedofitsoriginalcoveringofporphyriticclaystonebreccia;

ontheirsummits,manyfragmentsofrock(someofthemkindsnotfoundinsitu)arecoatedandunitedtogetherbyawhite,friable,calcareoustuff,likethatfoundatPodaguel。WhenthismatterwasdepositedonthesummitofS。Cristoval,thewatermusthavestood946feetabovethesurfaceofthesurroundingplain。(Or2,690feetabovethesea,asmeasuredbarometricallybyMr。Eck。Thistuffappearstotheeyenearlypure;butwhenplacedinaciditleavesaconsiderableresidueofsandandbrokencrystals,apparentlyoffeldspar。Dr。Meyen(“Reise“Th。1s。269)sayshefoundasimilarsubstanceontheneighbouringhillofDominico(andIfounditalsoontheCerroBlanco),andheattributesittotheweatheringofthestone。InsomeplaceswhichIexamined,itsbulkputthisviewofitsoriginquiteoutofthequestion;andIshouldmuchdoubtwhetherthedecompositionofaporphyrywould,inanycase,leaveacrustchieflycomposedofcarbonateoflime。Thewhitecrust,whichiscommonlyseenonweatheredfeldspathicrocks,doesnotappeartocontainanyfreecarbonateoflime。)

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