PREFACEThisbookisarecordofapleasuretrip。Ifitwerearecordofasolemnscientificexpedition，itwouldhaveaboutitthatgravity，thatprofundity，andthatimpressiveincomprehensibilitywhicharesopropertoworksofthatkind，andwithalsoattractive。Yetnotwithstandingitisonlyarecordofapicnic，ithasapurpose，whichistosuggesttothereaderhowhewouldbelikelytoseeEuropeandtheEastifhelookedatthemwithhisowneyesinsteadoftheeyesofthosewhotraveledinthosecountriesbeforehim。Imakesmallpretenseofshowinganyonehowheoughttolookatobjectsofinterestbeyondthesea——otherbooksdothat，andtherefore，evenifIwerecompetenttodoit，thereisnoneed。
Ioffernoapologiesforanydeparturesfromtheusualstyleoftravelwritingthatmaybechargedagainstme——forIthinkIhaveseenwithimpartialeyes，andIamsureIhavewrittenatleasthonestly，whetherwiselyornot。
InthisvolumeIhaveusedportionsofletterswhichIwrotefortheDailyAltaCalifornia，ofSanFrancisco，theproprietorsofthatjournalhavingwaivedtheirrightsandgivenmethenecessarypermission。
IhavealsoinsertedportionsofseveralletterswrittenfortheNewYorkTribuneandtheNewYorkHerald。
THEAUTHOR
SANFRANCISCO，1869
Chapter1
FormonthsthegreatpleasureexcursiontoEuropeandtheHolyLandwaschattedaboutinthenewspaperseverywhereinAmericaanddiscussedatcountlessfiresides。Itwasanoveltyinthewayofexcursions——itslikehadnotbeenthoughtofbefore——anditcompelledthatinterestwhichattractivenoveltiesalwayscommand。Itwastobeapicniconagiganticscale。Theparticipantsinit，insteadoffreightinganungainlysteamferryboatwithyouthandbeautyandpiesanddoughnuts，andpaddlingupsomeobscurecreektodisembarkuponagrassylawnandwearthemselvesoutwithalongsummerday'slaboriousfrolickingundertheimpressionthatitwasfun，weretosailawayinagreatsteamshipwithflagsflyingandcannonpealing，andtakearoyalholidaybeyondthebroadoceaninmanyastrangeclimeandinmanyalandrenownedinhistory！TheyweretosailformonthsoverthebreezyAtlanticandthesunnyMediterranean;
theyweretoscamperaboutthedecksbyday，fillingtheshipwithshoutsandlaughter，orreadnovelsandpoetryintheshadeofthesmokestacks，orwatchforthejellyfishandthenautilusovertheside，andtheshark，thewhale，andotherstrangemonstersofthedeep;andatnighttheyweretodanceintheopenair，ontheupperdeck，inthemidstofaballroomthatstretchedfromhorizontohorizon，andwasdomedbythebendingheavensandlightedbynomeanerlampsthanthestarsandthemagnificentmoon—dance，andpromenade，andsmoke，andsing，andmakelove，andsearchtheskiesforconstellationsthatneverassociatewiththe"BigDipper"theyweresotiredof;andtheyweretoseetheshipsoftwentynavies——thecustomsandcostumesoftwentycuriouspeoples——thegreatcitiesofhalfaworld——theyweretohobnobwithnobilityandholdfriendlyconversewithkingsandprinces，grandmoguls，andtheanointedlordsofmightyempires！Itwasabraveconception;itwastheoffspringofamostingeniousbrain。Itwaswelladvertised，butithardlyneededit:theboldoriginality，theextraordinarycharacter，theseductivenature，andthevastnessoftheenterpriseprovokedcommenteverywhereandadvertiseditineveryhouseholdintheland。Whocouldreadtheprogramoftheexcursionwithoutlongingtomakeoneoftheparty？Iwillinsertithere。Itisalmostasgoodasamap。Asatextforthisbook，nothingcouldbebetter:BROOKLYN，February1st，1867Theundersignedwillmakeanexcursionasaboveduringthecomingseason，andbegstosubmittoyouthefollowingprogram:Afirst—classsteamer，tobeunderhisowncommand，andcapableofaccommodatingatleastonehundredandfiftycabinpassengers，willbeselected，inwhichwillbetakenaselectcompany，numberingnotmorethanthree—fourthsoftheship'scapacity。Thereisgoodreasontobelievethatthiscompanycanbeeasilymadeupinthisimmediatevicinity，ofmutualfriendsandacquaintances。Thesteamerwillbeprovidedwitheverynecessarycomfort，includinglibraryandmusicalinstruments。Anexperiencedphysicianwillbeonboard。LeavingNewYorkaboutJune1st，amiddleandpleasantroutewillbetakenacrosstheAtlantic，andpassingthroughthegroupofAzores，St。Michaelwillbereachedinabouttendays。Adayortwowillbespenthere，enjoyingthefruitandwildsceneryoftheseislands，andthevoyagecontinued，andGibraltarreachedinthreeorfourdays。Adayortwowillbespenthereinlookingoverthewonderfulsubterraneousfortifications，permissiontovisitthesegalleriesbeingreadilyobtained。FromGibraltar，runningalongthecoastsofSpainandFrance，Marseilleswillbereachedinthreedays。Hereampletimewillbegivennotonlytolookoverthecity，whichwasfoundedsixhundredyearsbeforetheChristianera，anditsartificialport，thefinestofthekindintheMediterranean，buttovisitParisduringtheGreatExhibition;andthebeautifulcityofLyons，lyingintermediate，fromtheheightsofwhich，onaclearday，MontBlancandtheAlpscanbedistinctlyseen。PassengerswhomaywishtoextendthetimeatPariscandoso，and，passingdownthroughSwitzerland，rejointhesteameratGenoa。FromMarseillestoGenoaisarunofonenight。Theexcursionistswillhaveanopportunitytolookoverthis，themagnificentcityofpalaces，"
andvisitthebirthplaceofColumbus，twelvemilesoff，overabeautifulroadbuiltbyNapoleonI。Fromthispoint，excursionsmaybemadetoMilan，LakesComoandMaggiore，ortoMilan，Verona（famousforitsextraordinaryfortifications），Padua，andVenice。Or，ifpassengersdesiretovisitParma（famousforCorreggio'sfrescoes）andBologna，theycanbyrailgoontoFlorence，andrejointhesteameratLeghorn，thusspendingaboutthreeweeksamidthecitiesmostfamousforartinItaly。FromGenoatheruntoLeghornwillbemadealongthecoastinonenight，andtimeappropriatedtothispointinwhichtovisitFlorence，itspalacesandgalleries;Pisa，itscathedraland"LeaningTower，"andLuccaanditsbaths，andRomanamphitheater;Florence，themostremote，beingdistantbyrailaboutsixtymiles。FromLeghorntoNaples（callingatCivitaVecchiatolandanywhomayprefertogotoRomefromthatpoint），thedistancewillbemadeinaboutthirty—sixhours;theroutewilllayalongthecoastofItaly，closebyCaprera，Elba，andCorsica。ArrangementshavebeenmadetotakeonboardatLeghornapilotforCaprera，and，ifpracticable，acallwillbemadetheretovisitthehomeofGaribaldi。Rome[byrail]，Herculaneum，Pompeii，Vesuvius，Vergil'stomb，andpossiblytheruinsofPaestumcanbevisited，aswellasthebeautifulsurroundingsofNaplesanditscharmingbay。ThenextpointofinterestwillbePalermo，themostbeautifulcityofSicily，whichwillbereachedinonenightfromNaples。Adaywillbespenthere，andleavingintheevening，thecoursewillbetakentowardsAthens。SkirtingalongthenorthcoastofSicily，passingthroughthegroupofAeolianIsles，insightofStromboliandVulcania，bothactivevolcanoes，throughtheStraitsofMessina，with"Scylla"ontheonehandand"Charybdis"ontheother，alongtheeastcoastofSicily，andinsightofMountEtna，alongthesouthcoastofItaly，thewestandsouthcoastofGreece，insightofancientCrete，upAthensGulf，andintothePiraeus，Athenswillbereachedintwoandahalforthreedays。Aftertarryinghereawhile，theBayofSalamiswillbecrossed，andadaygiventoCorinth，whencethevoyagewillbecontinuedtoConstantinople，passingonthewaythroughtheGrecianArchipelago，theDardanelles，theSeaofMarmora，andthemouthoftheGoldenHorn，andarrivinginaboutforty—eighthoursfromAthens。AfterleavingConstantinople，thewaywillbetakenoutthroughthebeautifulBosphorus，acrosstheBlackSeatoSebastopolandBalaklava，arunofabouttwenty—fourhours。Hereitisproposedtoremaintwodays，visitingtheharbors，fortifications，andbattlefieldsoftheCrimea;thencebackthroughtheBosphorus，touchingatConstantinopletotakeinanywhomayhavepreferredtoremainthere;downthroughtheSeaofMarmoraandtheDardanelles，alongthecoastsofancientTroyandLydiainAsia，toSmyrna，whichwillbereachedintwoortwoandahalfdaysfromConstantinople。
AsufficientstaywillbemadeheretogiveopportunityofvisitingEphesus，fiftymilesdistantbyrail。FromSmyrnatowardstheHolyLandthecoursewilllaythroughtheGrecianArchipelago，closebytheIsleofPatmos，alongthecoastofAsia，ancientPamphylia，andtheIsleofCyprus。Beirutwillbereachedinthreedays。AtBeiruttimewillbegiventovisitDamascus;afterwhichthesteamerwillproceedtoJoppa。FromJoppa，Jerusalem，theRiverJordan，theSeaofTiberias，Nazareth，Bethany，Bethlehem，andotherpointsofinterestintheHolyLandcanbevisited，andherethosewhomayhavepreferredtomakethejourneyfromBeirutthroughthecountry，passingthroughDamascus，Galilee，Capernaum，Samaria，andbytheRiverJordanandSeaofTiberias，canrejointhesteamer。LeavingJoppa，thenextpointofinteresttovisitwillbeAlexandria，whichwillbereachedintwenty—fourhours。TheruinsofCaesar'sPalace，Pompey'sPillar，Cleopatra'sNeedle，theCatacombs，andruinsofancientAlexandriawillbefoundworththevisit。ThejourneytoCairo，onehundredandthirtymilesbyrail，canbemadeinafewhours，andfromwhichcanbevisitedthesiteofancientMemphis，Joseph'sGranaries，andthePyramids。FromAlexandriatheroutewillbetakenhomeward，callingatMalta，Cagliari（inSardinia），andPalma（inMajorca），allmagnificentharbors，withcharmingscenery，andaboundinginfruits。Adayortwowillbespentateachplace，andleavingParmaintheevening，ValenciainSpainwillbereachedthenextmorning。Afewdayswillbespentinthis，thefinestcityofSpain。FromValencia，thehomewardcoursewillbecontinued，skirtingalongthecoastofSpain。Alicant，Carthagena，Palos，andMalagawillbepassedbutamileortwodistant，andGibraltarreachedinabouttwenty—fourhours。Astayofonedaywillbemadehere，andthevoyagecontinuedtoMadeira，whichwillbereachedinaboutthreedays。CaptainMarryattwrites:"IdonotknowaspotontheglobewhichsomuchastonishesanddelightsuponfirstarrivalasMadeira。"Astayofoneortwodayswillbemadehere，which，iftimepermits，maybeextended，andpassingonthroughtheislands，andprobablyinsightofthePeakofTeneriffe，asoutherntrackwillbetaken，andtheAtlanticcrossedwithinthelatitudesofthenortheasttradewinds，wheremildandpleasantweather，andasmoothsea，canalwaysbeexpected。AcallwillbemadeatBermuda，whichliesdirectlyinthisroutehomeward，andwillbereachedinabouttendaysfromMadeira，andafterspendingashorttimewithourfriendstheBermudians，thefinaldeparturewillbemadeforhome，whichwillbereachedinaboutthreedays。Already，applicationshavebeenreceivedfrompartiesinEuropewishingtojointheExcursionthere。Theshipwillatalltimesbeahome，wheretheexcursionists，ifsick，willbesurroundedbykindfriends，andhaveallpossiblecomfortandsympathy。Shouldcontagioussicknessexistinanyoftheportsnamedintheprogram，suchportswillbepassed，andothersofinterestsubstituted。Thepriceofpassageisfixedat$1，250，currency，foreachadultpassenger。Choiceofroomsandofseatsatthetablesapportionedintheorderinwhichpassagesareengaged;andnopassageconsideredengageduntiltenpercentofthepassagemoneyisdepositedwiththetreasurer。Passengerscanremainonboardofthesteamer，atallports，iftheydesire，withoutadditionalexpense，andallboatingattheexpenseoftheship。Allpassagesmustbepaidforwhentaken，inorderthatthemostperfectarrangementsbemadeforstartingattheappointedtime。Applicationsforpassagemustbeapprovedbythecommitteebeforeticketsareissued，andcanbemadetotheundersigned。Articlesofinterestorcuriosity，procuredbythepassengersduringthevoyage，maybebroughthomeinthesteamerfreeofcharge。Fivedollarsperday，ingold，itisbelieved，willbeafaircalculationtomakeforalltravelingexpensesonshoreandatthevariouspointswherepassengersmaywishtoleavethesteamerfordaysatatime。Thetripcanbeextended，andtheroutechanged，byunanimousvoteofthepassengers。CHAS。C。DUNCAN，117WALLSTREET，NEWYORK
R。R。G******，TreasurerCommitteeonApplicationsJ。T。H*****，ESQ。R。R。G*****，ESQ。C。C。DuncanCommitteeonSelectingSteamerCAPT。W。W。S****，SurveyorforBoardofUnderwritersC。W。C******，ConsultingEngineerforU。S。andCanadaJ。T。H*****，Esq。
C。C。DUNCANP。S。——Theverybeautifulandsubstantialside—wheelsteamshipQuakerCityhasbeencharteredfortheoccasion，andwillleaveNewYorkJune8th。Lettershavebeenissuedbythegovernmentcommendingthepartytocourtesiesabroad。Whatwastherelackingaboutthatprogramtomakeitperfectlyirresistible？
Nothingthatanyfinitemindcoulddiscover。Paris，England，Scotland，Switzerland，Italy——Garibaldi！TheGrecianArchipelago！Vesuvius！Constantinople！
Smyrna！TheHolyLand！Egyptand"ourfriendstheBermudians"！PeopleinEuropedesiringtojointheexcursion——contagioussicknesstobeavoided——boatingattheexpenseoftheship——physicianonboard——thecircuitoftheglobetobemadeifthepassengersunanimouslydesiredit——thecompanytoberigidlyselectedbyapitiless"CommitteeonApplications"——thevesseltobeasrigidlyselectedbyaspitilessa"CommitteeonSelectingSteamer。"
Humannaturecouldnotwithstandthesebewilderingtemptations。Ihurriedtothetreasurer'sofficeanddepositedmytenpercent。Irejoicedtoknowthatafewvacantstateroomswerestillleft。Ididavoidacriticalpersonalexaminationintomycharacterbythatbowellesscommittee，butIreferredtoallthepeopleofhighstandingIcouldthinkofinthecommunitywhowouldbeleastlikelytoknowanythingaboutme。
ShortlyasupplementaryprogramwasissuedwhichsetforththatthePlymouthCollectionofHymnswouldbeusedonboardtheship。I
thenpaidthebalanceofmypassagemoney。
Iwasprovidedwithareceiptanddulyandofficiallyacceptedasanexcursionist。Therewashappinessinthatbutitwastamecomparedtothenoveltyofbeing"select。"
Thissupplementaryprogramalsoinstructedtheexcursioniststoprovidethemselveswithlightmusicalinstrumentsforamusementintheship，withsaddlesforSyriantravel，greenspectaclesandumbrellas，veilsforEgypt，andsubstantialclothingtouseinroughpilgrimizingintheHolyLand。
Furthermore，itwassuggestedthatalthoughtheship'slibrarywouldaffordafairamountofreadingmatter，itwouldstillbewellifeachpassengerwouldprovidehimselfwithafewguidebooks，aBible，andsomestandardworksoftravel。Alistwasappended，whichconsistedchieflyofbooksrelatingtotheHolyLand，sincetheHolyLandwaspartoftheexcursionandseemedtobeitsmainfeature。
ReverendHenryWardBeecherwastohaveaccompaniedtheexpedition，buturgentdutiesobligedhimtogiveuptheidea。Therewereotherpassengerswhocouldhavebeensparedbetterandwouldhavebeensparedmorewillingly。
LieutenantGeneralShermanwastohavebeenofthepartyalso，buttheIndianwarcompelledhispresenceontheplains。Apopularactresshadenteredhernameontheship'sbooks，butsomethinginterferedandshecouldn'tgo。The"DrummerBoyofthePotomac"deserted，andlo，wehadneveracelebrityleft！
However，weweretohavea"batteryofguns"fromtheNavyDepartment（asperadvertisement）tobeusedinansweringroyalsalutes;andthedocumentfamishedbytheSecretaryoftheNavy，whichwastomake"GeneralShermanandparty"welcomeguestsinthecourtsandcampsoftheoldworld，wasstilllefttous，thoughbothdocumentandbattery，Ithink，wereshornofsomewhatoftheiroriginalaugustproportions。However，hadnotwetheseductiveprogramstill，withitsParis，itsConstantinople，Smyrna，Jerusalem，Jericho，and"ourfriendstheBermudians"？Whatdidwecare？
Chapter2
Occasionally，duringthefollowingmonth，Idroppedinat117WallStreettoinquirehowtherepairingandrefumishingofthevesselwascomingon，howadditionstothepassengerlistwereaveraging，howmanypeoplethecommitteeweredecreeingnot"select"everydayandbanishinginsorrowandtribulation。Iwasgladtoknowthatweweretohavealittleprintingpressonboardandissueadailynewspaperofourown。Iwasgladtolearnthatourpiano，ourparlororgan，andourmelodeonweretobethebestinstrumentsofthekindthatcouldbehadinthemarket。Iwasproudtoobservethatamongourexcursionistswerethreeministersofthegospel，eightdoctors，sixteenoreighteenladies，severalmilitaryandnavalchieftainswithsoundingtitles，anamplecropof"Professors"ofvariouskinds，andagentlemanwhohad"COMMISSIONEROFTHEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICATO
EUROPE，ASIA，ANDAFRICA"thunderingafterhisnameinoneawfulblast！
Ihadcarefullypreparedmyselftotakeratherabackseatinthatshipbecauseoftheuncommonlyselectmaterialthatwouldalonebepermittedtopassthroughthecamel'seyeofthatcommitteeoncredentials;Ihadschooledmyselftoexpectanimposingarrayofmilitaryandnavalheroesandtohavetosetthatbackseatstillfurtherbackinconsequenceofitmaybe;butIstatefranklythatIwasallunpreparedforthiscrusher。
Ifellunderthattitularavalancheatornandblightedthing。Isaidthatifthatpotentatemustgooverinourship，why，Isupposedhemust——butthattomythinking，whentheUnitedStatesconsidereditnecessarytosendadignitaryofthattonnageacrosstheocean，itwouldbeinbettertaste，andsafer，totakehimapartandcarthimoverinsectionsinseveralships。
Ah，ifIhadonlyknownthenthathewasonlyacommonmortal，andthathismissionhadnothingmoreoverpoweringaboutitthanthecollectingofseedsanduncommonyamsandextraordinarycabbagesandpeculiarbullfrogsforthatpoor，useless，innocent，mildewedoldfossiltheSmithsonianInstitute，Iwouldhavefeltsomuchrelieved。
DuringthatmemorablemonthIbaskedinthehappinessofbeingforonceinmylifedriftingwiththetideofagreatpopularmovement。EverybodywasgoingtoEurope——I，too，wasgoingtoEurope。EverybodywasgoingtothefamousParisExposition——I，too，wasgoingtotheParisExposition。
ThesteamshiplineswerecarryingAmericansoutofthevariousportsofthecountryattherateoffourorfivethousandaweekintheaggregate。
IfImetadozenindividualsduringthatmonthwhowerenotgoingtoEuropeshortly，Ihavenodistinctremembranceofitnow。IwalkedaboutthecityagooddealwithayoungMr。Blucher，whowasbookedfortheexcursion。
Hewasconfiding，good—natured，unsophisticated，companionable;buthewasnotamantosettheriveronfire。HehadthemostextraordinarynotionsaboutthisEuropeanexodusandcameatlasttoconsiderthewholenationaspackingupforemigrationtoFrance。WesteppedintoastoreonBroadwayoneday，whereheboughtahandkerchief，andwhenthemancouldnotmakechange，Mr。B。said:
"Nevermind，I'llhandittoyouinParis。"
"ButIamnotgoingtoParis。"
"Howis——whatdidIunderstandyoutosay？"
"IsaidIamnotgoingtoParis。"
"NotgoingtoParis！Notg——well，then，whereinthenationareyougoingto？"
"Nowhereatall。"
"Notanywherewhatsoever？Notanyplaceonearthbutthis？"
"Notanyplaceatallbutjustthis——stayhereallsummer。"
Mycomradetookhispurchaseandwalkedoutofthestorewithoutaword——walkedoutwithaninjuredlookuponhiscountenance。Upthestreetapiecehebrokesilenceandsaidimpressively:"Itwasalie——thatismyopinionofit！"
Inthefullnessoftimetheshipwasreadytoreceiveherpassengers。
Iwasintroducedtotheyounggentlemanwhowastobemyroommate，andfoundhimtobeintelligent，cheerfulofspirit，unselfish，fullofgenerousimpulses，patient，considerate，andwonderfullygood—natured。NotanypassengerthatsailedintheQuakerCitywillwithholdhisendorsementofwhatIhavejustsaid。Weselectedastateroomforwardofthewheel，onthestarboardside，"belowdecks。"Itbadtwoberthsinit，adismaldeadlight，asinkwithawashbowlinit，andalong，sumptuouslycushionedlocker，whichwastodoserviceasasofa——partly——andpartlyasahidingplaceforourthings。Notwithstandingallthisfurniture，therewasstillroomtoturnaroundin，butnottoswingacatin，atleastwithentiresecuritytothecat。However，theroomwaslarge，foraship'sstateroom，andwasineverywaysatisfactory。
ThevesselwasappointedtosailonacertainSaturdayearlyinJune。
AlittleafternoononthatdistinguishedSaturdayIreachedtheshipandwentonboard。Allwasbustleandconfusion。[Ihaveseenthatremarkbeforesomewhere。]Thepierwascrowdedwithcarriagesandmen;passengerswerearrivingandhurryingonboard;thevessel'sdeckswereencumberedwithtrunksandvalises;groupsofexcursionists，arrayedinunattractivetravelingcostumes，weremopingaboutinadrizzlingrainandlookingasdroopyandwoebegoneassomanymoltingchickens。Thegallantflagwasup，butitwasunderthespell，too，andhunglimpanddisheartenedbythemast。Altogether，itwasthebluest，bluestspectacle！Itwasapleasureexcursion——therewasnogainsayingthat，becausetheprogramsaidso——itwassonominatedinthebond——butitsurelyhadn'tthegeneralaspectofone。
Finally，abovethebanging，andrumbling，andshouting，andhissingofsteamrangtheorderto"castoff！"——asuddenrushtothegangways——ascamperingashoreofvisitors—arevolutionofthewheels，andwewereoff—thepicnicwasbegun！Twoverymildcheerswentupfromthedrippingcrowdonthepier;weansweredthemgentlyfromtheslipperydecks;theflagmadeanefforttowave，andfailed;the"batteryofguns"spakenot——theammunitionwasout。
Westeameddowntothefootoftheharborandcametoanchor。Itwasstillraining。Andnotonlyraining，butstorming。"Outside"wecouldsee，ourselves，thattherewasatremendousseaon。Wemustliestill，inthecalmharbor，tillthestormshouldabate。Ourpassengershailedfromfifteenstates;onlyafewofthemhadeverbeentoseabefore;manifestlyitwouldnotdotopitthemagainstafull—blowntempestuntiltheyhadgottheirsealegson。TowardeveningthetwosteamtugsthathadaccompanieduswitharollickingchampagnepartyofyoungNewYorkersonboardwhowishedtobidfarewelltooneofournumberindueandancientformdeparted，andwewerealoneonthedeep。Ondeepfivefathoms，andanchoredfasttothebottom。Andoutinthesolemnrainatthat。Thiswaspleasuringwithavengeance。
Itwasanappropriatereliefwhenthegongsoundedforprayermeeting。
ThefirstSaturdaynightofanyotherpleasureexcursionmighthavebeendevotedtowhistanddancing;butIsubmitittotheunprejudicedmindifitwouldhavebeeningoodtasteforustoengageinsuchfrivolities，consideringwhatwehadgonethroughandtheframeofmindwewerein。
Wewouldhaveshoneatawake，butnotatanythingmorefestive。
However，thereisalwaysacheeringinfluenceaboutthesea;andinmyberththatnight，rockedbythemeasuredswellofthewavesandlulledbythemurmurofthedistantsurf，Isoonpassedtranquillyoutofallconsciousnessofthedrearyexperiencesofthedayanddamagingpremonitionsofthefuture。
Chapter3
AlldaySundayatanchor。Thestormhadgonedownagreatdeal，buttheseahadnot。Itwasstillpilingitsfrothyhillshighinair"outside，"
aswecouldplainlyseewiththeglasses。WecouldnotproperlybeginapleasureexcursiononSunday;wecouldnotofferuntriedstomachstosopitilessaseaasthat。WemustliestilltillMonday。Andwedid。Butwehadrepetitionsofchurchandprayermeetings;andso，ofcourse，wewerejustaseligiblysituatedaswecouldhavebeenanywhere。
IwasupearlythatSabbathmorningandwasearlytobreakfast。Ifeltaperfectlynaturaldesiretohaveagood，long，unprejudicedlookatthepassengersatatimewhentheyshouldbefreefromself—consciousness——whichisatbreakfast，whensuchamomentoccursinthelivesofhumanbeingsatall。
Iwasgreatlysurprisedtoseesomanyelderlypeople——Imightalmostsay，somanyvenerablepeople。Aglanceatthelonglinesofheadswasapttomakeonethinkitwasallgray。Butitwasnot。Therewasatolerablyfairsprinklingofyoungfolks，andanotherfairsprinklingofgentlemenandladieswhowerenoncommittalastoage，beingneitheractuallyoldorabsolutelyyoung。
Thenextmorningweweighedanchorandwenttosea。Itwasagreathappinesstogetawayafterthisdragging，dispiritingdelay。Ithoughtthereneverwassuchgladnessintheairbefore，suchbrightnessinthesun，suchbeautyinthesea。Iwassatisfiedwiththepicnicthenandwithallitsbelongings。
AUmymaliciousinstinctsweredeadwithinme;andasAmericafadedoutofsight，Ithinkaspiritofcharityroseupintheirplacethatwasasboundless，forthetimebeing，asthebroadoceanthatwasheavingitsbillowsaboutus。Iwishedtoexpressmyfeelings——Iwishedtoliftupmyvoiceandsing;butIdidnotknowanythingtosing，andsoIwasobligedtogiveuptheidea。Itwasnolosstotheship，though，perhaps。
Itwasbreezyandpleasant，buttheseawasstillveryrough。Onecouldnotpromenadewithoutriskinghisneck;atonemomentthebowspritwastakingadeadlyaimatthesuninmidheaven，andatthenextitwastryingtoharpoonasharkinthebottomoftheocean。Whataweirdsensationitistofeelthestemofashipsinkingswiftlyfromunderyouandseethebowclimbinghighawayamongtheclouds！One'ssafestcoursethatdaywastoclasparailingandhangon;walkingwastooprecariousapastime。
BysomehappyfortuneIwasnotseasick。Thatwasathingtobeproudof。Ihadnotalwaysescapedbefore。Ifthereisonethingintheworldthatwillmakeamanpeculiarlyandinsufferablyself—conceited，itistohavehisstomachbehaveitself，thefirstdayitsea，whennearlyallhiscomradesareseasick。Soonavenerablefossil，shawledtothechinandbandagedlikeamummy，appearedatthedooroftheafterdeckhouse，andthenextlurchoftheshipshothimintomyarms。Isaid:
"Good—morning，Sir。Itisafineday。"
Heputhishandonhisstomachandsaid，"Oh，my！"andthenstaggeredawayandfelloverthecoopofaskylight。
Presentlyanotheroldgentlemanwasprojectedfromthesamedoorwithgreatviolence。Isaid:
"Calmyourself，sir——thereisnohurry。Itisafineday，Sir。"
He，also，puthishandonhisstomachandsaid"Oh，my！"andreeledaway。
Inalittlewhileanotherveteranwasdischargedabruptlyfromthesamedoor，clawingattheairforasavingsupportIsaid:
"Goodmorning，Sir。Itisafinedayforpleasuring。Youwereabouttosay——"
"Oh，my！"
Ithoughtso。Ianticipatedhim，anyhow。Istayedthereandwasbombardedwitholdgentlemenforanhour，perhaps;andallIgotoutofanyofthemwas"Oh，my！"
Iwentawaytheninathoughtfulmood。Isaid，thisisagoodpleasureexcursion。Ilikeit。Thepassengersarenotgarrulous，butstilltheyaresociable。Ilikethoseoldpeople，butsomehowtheyallseemtohavethe"Oh，my"ratherbad。
Iknewwhatwasthematterwiththem。Theywereseasick。AndIwasgladofit。Weallliketoseepeopleseasickwhenwearenot，ourselves。Playingwhistbythecabinlampswhenitisstormingoutsideispleasant;walkingthequarterdeckinthemoonlightispleasant;smokinginthebreezyforetopispleasantwhenoneisnotafraidtogoupthere;buttheseareallfeebleandcommonplacecomparedwiththejoyofseeingpeoplesufferingthemiseriesofseasickness。
Ipickedupagooddealofinformationduringtheafternoon。AtonetimeIwasclimbingupthequarterdeckwhenthevessel'sstemwasinthesky;Iwassmokingacigarandfeelingpassablycomfortable。Somebodyejaculated:
"Come，now，thatwon'tanswer。Readthesignupthere——NO
SMOKINGABAFTTHEWHEEL！"
ItwasCaptainDuncan，chiefoftheexpedition。Iwentforward，ofcourse。
Isawalongspyglasslyingonadeskinoneoftheupper—deckstateroomsbackofthepilothouseandreachedafterit——therewasashipinthedistance。
"Ah，ah——handsoff！Comeoutofthat！"
Icameoutofthat。Isaidtoadecksweep——butinalowvoice:
"Whoisthatovergrownpiratewiththewhiskersandthediscordantvoice？"
"It'sCaptainBursley——executiveofficer——sailingmaster。"
Iloiteredaboutawhile，andthen，forwantofsomethingbettertodo，felltocarvingarailingwithmyknife。Somebodysaid，inaninsinuating，admonitoryvoice:
"Now，say——myfriend——don'tyouknowanybetterthantobewhittlingtheshipalltopiecesthatway？Yououghttoknowbetterthanthat。"
Iwentbackandfoundthedecksweep。
"Whoisthatsmooth—faced，animatedoutrageyonderinthefineclothes？"
"That'sCaptainL****，theowneroftheship——he'soneofthemainbosses。"
InthecourseoftimeIbroughtuponthestarboardsideofthepilot—houseandfoundasextantlyingonabench。Now，Isaid，they"takethesun"
throughthisthing;IshouldthinkImightseethatvesselthroughit。
Ihadhardlygotittomyeyewhensomeonetouchedmeontheshoulderandsaiddeprecatingly:
"I'llhavetogetyoutogivethattome，Sir。Ifthere'sanythingyou'dliketoknowabouttakingthesun，I'dassoontellyouasnot——butIdon'tliketotrustanybodywiththatinstrument。Ifyouwantanyfiguringdone——Aye，aye，sir！"
Hewasgonetoansweracallfromtheotherside。Isoughtthedecksweep。
"Whoisthatspider—leggedgorillayonderwiththesanctimoniouscountenance？"
"It'sCaptainJones，sir——thechiefmate。"
"Well。ThisgoesclearawayaheadofanythingIeverheardofbefore。
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